If your using can then yes, but but charger just operating stand alone, that won’t apply.

How and what do you have wired? what plug are you using, what resistance is the pilot pin?

What did you make this in? Would you mind sharing the file? It’s cleaner than my quick made diagram, would be good for the wiki and what not

Type 2 joints can take a lot of angle, there’s also lots of aftermarket high angle 100mm joints.

With the amount of travel that you have(not much), I’d just tuck that motor up there.

Nice drawing, your missing t15 “on” switch, pdm working looks right.

https://ebay.us/m/WiVxF0 if you're UK based then here's a cheap rear outlander motor.

Charger https://ebay.us/m/XmL2i6

And there's inverters going for around d £40-50 although might need to be checked for compatibility with zombieverter depending on year. Not sure if they're all compatible ...

As Tom said, outlander is the ideal set of parts for a mini, the gearing is also a bit better for the small mini wheels, compared to the other options. wiring and control is as simple if not simpler than the leaf stack!

Outlander rear du puts out lots of power, no weird subframe mods, pdm re wiring ...

Loctite 660

🤦🏼‍♂️

It’s called a bootloader… it’s just used to for starting up the stm to run what ever firmware is loaded. In this case, the Tesla charger firmware.


Loading other firmware, such as stm32sine, which is designed for different hardware, will do nothing.

Load the generic bootloader, then the ...

There’s no dedicated bootloader for the Tesla board, it’s just the oi generic bootloader from johu.

I recall loaded a v5 file, then the stm32 file on the charger.

And on the esp, yes I soldered to flash and then unsoldered which gave me the latest screen I posted.


Looks like your esp is sorted.

when programming an stm with any of the oi firmware, you need to upload the bootloader first ...

+1 for outlander rear drive unit and OBC heck even the outlander battery if your on the budget end and don’t need too much range

AMP3R wrote: ↑Sat Jun 28, 2025 9:34 pm I prefer that this information not become open source.

If your planing on releasing your own standalone controller then fair enough, but the open in openinverter dose stand for something….

jerrykco wrote: ↑Sat Jun 28, 2025 3:04 pm Storage in the shop and the damage to one of the modules, damn!

that sucks, you could possibly harvest the good cells from the module for other purposes. But I would just slowly drain that cell to 0, and do it in an isolated area. Just reduces the chance of anything happening

i found this out the hard way... not by stacking but by scraping the thermal putty off with a pick. thought it was aluminum but turns out its very thin plastic. i might have put a tiny hole in the pouch and idk how to tell if i totalled the module by doing so.


Consider that module unsafe to use ...

Note with the battery modules, do not stack them on top of each other, the rivets will indent the pouch cells (as they are exposed on the bottom) and will damage them

AMP3R wrote: ↑Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:19 pm I have figured out the secret of how the immobilizer works and now it's possible to use drive units without VCSEC. Unfortunately, I can't reveal this information, otherwise a falcon 9 rocket will fall on my house, as Damien once joked.

Where’s the fun in that? At least give us some clues!

So it’s 88s battery? So 91% of a full 24kwh pack, so about 21kwh. What’s roughly the real world capacity?

Great range for a small battery!

Couple months have passed, you been driving RWD or what!?


unfortunately have had no time since to attend to the brat, but after measuring the required axles lengths, I found I need 19.5in axles shafts. Being I’m planning on using vw 100mm joints… very conveniently that vanagon axles are…19.5in ...

did you upload the bootloader first? Then the charger firmware?

On the esp, did you solder the bridge to flash it then un solder it?

print at scale

unfortunately its not the same pattern

There is no controller available that will run the gen 1 Lea on board charger.

The zombiverter will run the gen1 leaf motor+inverter
And dose CHAdeMO

but dose not run the gen1 leaf charger

cajamatt wrote: ↑Thu Jun 12, 2025 5:00 pm
This means my adaptor plates need a rotated hole pattern. It looks like i could add a rotated set of holes for the NEMA B-face pattern in order to achieve this with you adaptor plates, @bratitude?

Yup! Beautie of the nema pattern is you can clock it any angle you like

Okay. So I was able to update my wifi card. For anyone curious, use the Arduino IDE 1.xx, not the latest 2.xx version.
Unfortunately, it didn't allow me to configure the charger. This is what the charger website shows now:
[


What firmware did you load onto the board?

Johu took over software ...

hey muehlpower, got any boards left?

What software are you using?

With these cheapo st link programmers, the order of operations dose matter to make things work (in my experience)

-12v power to the board
-plug st link into usb
-open st link utility
-connect to device

Something along that order of operations


But have you tried ...