[WIP]Toyota RAV4 EV (2012-2014): Add CCS DCFC

[asavage]

I've got posts about this all over the place, so it's time to formally put it all in one thread, where I can find and refer to it reasonably easily. My tracking spreadsheet on this project has its first entry on 19May2022, so I'm at 15 months in.

I bought a 2014 RAV4 EV (2nd Gen) off-lease in 2017, 49k miles. Between the previous owner and I, everything on it with Tesla's name on it has been replaced at least once under warranty (except the Gateway module, that interfaces the Toyota parts with the Tesla parts). I commuted it daily 56 mi. for years, and its ~100 mi. range worked well for that, saving me thousands. I retired and moved, and now live far, far away from a lot of things I like to visit, so 100 mi. has become limiting, as these vehicles were not offered with DCFC options.

There's an aftermarket CHAdeMO "kit" that adds DCFC . . . with limitations and for $3k. The price isn't awful, but it's not well integrated to the vehicle, requiring the car to be in "Ready" mode (ie drivable) whilst charging, but I want CCS anyway.

As opposed to a clean-sheet project where I have a lot of freedom to use anybody's bits, upgrading an OEM EV imposes restrictions if retaining the existing integration is desired. Things like a GOM, EV system warnings, and the like are already in place and working, and if I were to, eg replace the BMS or OBC, most of that integration would die. I'm planning to keep the Tesla bits thinking they're all working normally, whilst feeding the HV battery DC and without upsetting the BMS, and allowing the Tesla thermal management to do its thing as usual.

The BMW i3 LIM method of implementing CCS requires at least:

• CCSx charge port
• DCFC contactors
• HV cables from charge port to DCFC contactors
• HV cables from DCFC contactors to battery pack (tap into HV rail somewhere)
• BMW i3 LIM
• Voltage sense board that LIM requires
• ISA IVT-S current shunt that ZombieVerter board requires
• ZombieVerter to run the LIM -- or possibly port the ZV code to other hardware

I gathered all the above, except the ZV board itself . . . then the HomePlug AR7420 CCS project started, and later the more-generic QCA700x single board project, and I like the idea better than the works-now BMW i3 LIM recipe, so I'm watching those threads and I sold off my LIM CCS supplies.

The current plan is to get the basics in place and DCFC working with the vehicle in "Ready" mode, then move to the next phase: Create an OBC replacement "golem" that can take over pretending to the rest of the Tesla bits that it's the real OBC, when DCFCing. This will allow plugging in and DCFC without the vehicle being in "Ready" mode, and can gracefully end a charge session.

---
The basic parts list.
Excludes wrong turns, change of plans, dead-end ideas: this list I'll maintain as what actually ends up getting used.

• Charge port, 2013 Tesla Model S
• HVDC cable, shielded, 50mm², 8m
• HVDC Voltage Sense Board
• Butt Splice Connectors, 1/0 AWG (2)
• Bolt terminal lugs for HVJB/50mm² cable, (6)
• EMC Cable Glands
• HVJB
• LV/Signals connector for HVJB
• Used Model S LDU HV cable set
• Heat Shrink Tubing, adhesive lined
• Wiring braid protection for 50mm² cables
• Zip ties for wiring braid protection
• DCFC Contactors, (2)
• MiTM board, Teensy 4.0 w/(3) CAN
• HomePlug PHY QCA700x board
• [ . . . ]

---
Target phases

Replace Charge Port

• Install CCS Porsche Taycan early Tesla Model S NACS charge port in place of OEM J1772 port
  • Fab adapter as req'd to fit charge port in available space, including cutting existing bodywork, both around the port and the panel behind the fuel filler neck
  • Butt splice AC leads, PE, CP, and PP from new charge port to OEM leads, to retain AC charging continuity
  • Does not require dropping the HV battery pack
• Result: the charge port has been replaced and AC charging is still possible. Vehicle remains in service.

Install new DCFC leads (charge port to new HVJB)

• Install new HVDC leads from charge port's leads to HVJB location
  • May involve dropping the HV battery (840 lbs) a few inches
  • Possibly, the leads may be run down the unused trans/driveshaft tunnel
• Butt splice + double insulation to mate the new DC leads to new charge port leads.
• Result: new DCFC leads are run and connected from new charge port to new HVJB location. Vehicle remains in service.

New HVJB, Part 1

• Prepare new HVJB
  • Install DCFC contactors, glands, and LV connector to new HVJB
  • Install HVDC voltage sensing board
• Install HVJB to vehicle, probably at passenger firewall area
• Install new HV DCFC leads from charge port to HVJB
  • Fit EMC glands and bolt lug terminals to new DCFC cables
  • Install new DCFC cables to HVJB & DCFC contactors using EMC glands
• Result: HVJB installed, with new DCFC leads connected to DCFC contactors. Vehicle remains in service.

New HVJB, Part 2

• Modify OEM HV Battery-to-LDU leads
  • Remove OEM HV Battery-to-LDU leads from LDU only
  • Cut off LDU ends from OEM cables
  • Fit EMC glands and bolt lug terminals to OEM cable
  • Install modified OEM cables to HVJB & DCFC contactors using EMC glands
• Modify spare Model S LDU HV cables
  • Cut off the Model S Rear HVJB terminal ends
  • Fit EMC glands and bolt lug terminals to Model S LDU HV cables
• Result: new HVJB fully installed, vehicle remains in service.

QCA700x board

CP & PP lines: physical switch between OBC and QCA700x

Testing of basic CCS DCFCing

--- END Of MAJOR PHASE ---

Install MiTM board

• Two CAN channels, can differentiate outgoing from incoming

Collect CAN from OBC during an AC charge session

• Comparison with Tesla DBC files I've collected

Define software functions & scope

• Copy and modify existing MiTM snippets that already function
• Attempt to framework the golem basics (pretend to be OBC and tell BMS, "everything's fine here")
• Locate a willing software partner to hire for development

[ . . . ]

[asavage]

The first CCS part I'd bought was a BMW i3 charge port (CCS1), but the RAV4 EV uses the Tesla Model S GEN1 OBC, which can draw 40A @ 240V, a feature I use frequently at the three EVSEs I have installed at various locations; the i3, like many older EVs, can only draw 32A, so that port was not usable for AC charging, and I sold it to someone who will use it for DCFC only and who doesn't care about it's lack of 40A AC capacity (Thanks, Randy!).

Today, I received a Porsche Taycan right charge port assy, including the optional electric "disappearing" motorized door, via eBay. I emphasize right because the Taycan has two charge ports: the left front is J1772 (or Type 2) only, and the right is CCSx.

Porscshe Taycan 2021 Right charge port door assy.

Porscshe Taycan 2021 Right charge port door assy.

Four screws and a couple of cable ties, and I stripped the charge port out of it.

Porscshe Taycan 2021 Right charge port

Porscshe Taycan 2021 Right charge port

Porscshe Taycan 2021 Right charge port

The Taycan can AC charge at 11kw in the US, so ~48A AC capacity, more than enough for my Model S OBC.



Aaaand, I immediately re-listed the electric motorized charge port door on eBay. None have sold in eBay's history, so I don't know its value, but I listed it $100 less than the cheapest of the other three already on eBay, so I'm hoping it moves.

The part No. for the Taycan RH port is 9J1821942E

[asavage]

In order to eventually make an OBC golem, I need to know more about the OBC. The RAV4 EV's OBC is physically identical to the early Tesla Model S' OBC; only the firmware differs. A few months ago I bought an early Model S GEN1 OBC, and started documenting its physical properties, leading to an OI Wiki article on it: Tesla Model S GEN1 OBC. About a month in, one of the AC input fuses failed in my RAV4's OBC, so I got a chance to have them both open at the same time. I say that the fuse "failed" rather than "blew" because fuse failure was/is very common on the GEN1 OBCs, with no definitive reason found, and several people would replace the failed fuse -- one of two -- only to have the other fuse fail within a year or two. The GEN1 OBC was quickly replaced with the GEN2 around Oct2013, so there are not a lot of GEN1 OBCs around compared to the GEN2 and later, and scant information about them is publicly available, other than fuse replacement.

The Wiki now has a reasonably accurate description of the physical characteristics of the GEN1 OBC, as well as all of the (many) connectors' pinouts defined. This is little use to anyone who doesn't have a vehicle with one installed, as the more-plentiful and less troublesome GEN2 is a better choice for a clean-sheet build, but since I had to have this knowledge for my project, putting it in a Wiki seemed the best way to store it for future use.

[I also bought a Rear HVJB to match, to verify the power I/O and HVIL circuits of the OBC, and I wrote an OI Wiki on that, also: Tesla_Model S GEN1 Rear HVJB]

The OBC golem will be a MiTM CAN device that will take over and pretend to be the OBC to the rest of the Tesla CAN devices, when appropriate.

From the CCS Wiki:

. . . AC charging is possible using the PWM signal only. In this case the charging station uses the duty cycle of the PWM to inform the onboard charger of the maximum available current at the charging station (A pulse width of 5% indicates that HLC shall be used).

High-level communication (HLC) is done by modulating a high-frequency signal over the CP contact (also known as Power Line Communication or PLC) to transfer more complex information . . .

When the CP line receives 5% PWM, the golem will cut off comms from the OBC and pretend to be the OBC, keeping the BMS happy while the CCS board negotiates and manages comms with the CCSx EVSE.

The hardware involved is straightforward, but the CAN to do this will be challenging (for me).

Initially, I intend to manually hardware-switch the CP & PP from the OBC to the golem and CCS board (AR7420 or QCA700x) when attempting DCFC; later, I intend to automate this so no user intervention will be required when plugging in CCS.

---

When the golem begins pretending to the rest of the Tesla parts that it's the OBC, it'll need to silence the OBC. In Apr2023 I built a breakout harness for the LV signals & CAN on the OBC.

The OBC looks like this:

Tesla Model S GEN1 Onboard Charger, perspective view.

Its LV/Logic connector:

Tesla Model S GEN1 OBC X042 Logic Connector pinout.

Breakout harness for LV/Logic connector:

Tesla GEN1 OBC Logic Connector X042 Breakout Harness

Each lead is labelled for function at the breakout:

Tesla GEN1 OBC Logic Connector X042 Breakout Harness

Tesla GEN1 OBC Logic Connector X042 Breakout Harness

Tesla GEN1 OBC Logic Connector X042 Breakout Harness

Tesla GEN1 OBC Logic Connector X042 Breakout Harness

Breakout harness installed in vehicle:

Tesla GEN1 OBC Logic Connector X042 Breakout Harness

Example: measuring PP-to-GND at the OBC X042 breakout harness:

Tesla GEN1 OBC Logic Connector X042 Breakout Harness

I've been running with the OBC breakout harness installed for several months.

If the OBC doesn't like being powered on but receiving no CAN, and puts itself in an error state, my thought is to cut its 12v power while DCFC, then re-enable it at completion.

[asavage]

Tapping the HV rail: Overview of the proposed HVJB

The early Model S had LDU HV cables which connected the LDU to a Rear HVJB located within the passenger compartment, under the center of the rear bench seat. Tesla used proprietary EMC cable glands -- which are not available separately from the cable sets -- and the construction of the glands are different on the LDU end (out in the weather) vs the Rear HVJB's end (inside the vehicle); the HVJB end does not have external o-rings for sealing. Two different proprietary and not-available-for-purchase cable glands.

Tesla Model S (early) LDU HV Cables 1004872-00-B

The RAV4 EV has no Rear HVJB, and the LDU connects to the front of the HV battery pack, so both ends of the LDU HV cables are on the exterior of the car, and Tesla recycles the weather-sealed LDU-end EMC cable glands for both ends.

I need a HVJB for the DCFC contactors. OEMs (Tesla, BMW, Porsche) use shielded cables from their charge ports, and while I don't know if EMC shielding is necessary for DCFC, where I would assume EMI is reasonably low, I've decided to continue the shielding practice on mine. That implies that the new HVJB should be EMI shielded as well, which practically means that I use a metal enclosure. I chose a fairly large one to trial fit in the space available, and I propose to install it in the general vicinity of the existing LDU-to-HV-Battery HV cables, near the right side firewall area. These existing cables will need to be longer by several inches to route in/out of the HVJB, but also need to have the Tesla proprietary EMC cable glands on the HV battery ends and LDU ends. I propose to disconnect the RAV4's cables from its LDU, cut off the LDU-end's lug and gland, and route it to the new HVJB.

I have acquired a HV LDU cable set from an early Model S; I will cut off the ends where they would have connected to the Rear HVJB, and install those ends to the new HVJB, installing the LDU ends to the LDU.

In this way, I can continue to use Tesla's proprietary EMC cable glands for the HV battery and LDU, but have longer cables to interface with the new HBJB.

HVJB Idea, 31Ju2023

This HVJB will probably contain a HVDC Voltage Sense board, to monitor the HVDC on the charge port lines, as feedback for the CCS board.

HVDC Voltage Sense board by muehlpower, connections.

image.png (8.93 KiB) Viewed 7297 times

The external 5v feed and signal wires for that board will require three leads; the contactors will require a further four. I will install a 12-way connector, allowing for expansion.

HVJB parts list

HVJB/Contactors enclosure, Bud Industries ANS-3835
https://www.hawkusa.com/manufacturers/bud/enclosures/ans-3835
Note: this is a fairly large enclosure for a pair of contactors plus a small PCB; it's 10.31" x 7.17" x 3.54" (262mm x 182mm x 90mm) and may not fit in the desired location, but I decided to start with a reasonably large enclosure as a first try. It's possible I'll need to downsize it.

Contactors, (2) 500a 900vdc, w/economizer
https://batteryhookup.com/products/te-connectivity-ev200aaana-500a-0-900vdc

Cable, shielded 50mm2, 8m (26’), Coroflex FHLR2GCB2G 9-2611
https://eveurope.eu/en/product/coroflex-flexible-orange-battery-cable-shielded/?attribute_maat=50+mm2

Cable glands (6), Hummel 1.631.2500.50, 13-18mm range, $16.96 ea.
https://www.tme.com/ux/en-us/details/hummel-1631250050/glands/hummel/1-631-2500-50/

Butt splice connectors (4), 1/0 AWG, Molex VersaKrimp 19215-0047 (probably not needed in current design iteration)
Tin electroplate over copper
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-19215-0047

Ring Terminals (6), 1/0 AWG, 5/16" (8mm) eye, Molex VersaKrimp 19193-0333
Tin electroplate over copper
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-19193-0333

HVDC Voltage Measurement (Sense) board by muehlpower
viewtopic.php?t=2474

HVJB panel mount connector: Plug, 12-way, 14-16 AWG, Molex 19435-1211, (2)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-19429-0039

Mating connector is 19418-0027; male terminals are 19417-0025, female terminals are 19420-0003 (all for 14-16 AWG).

[asavage]

I removed the OEM J1772 charge inlet and took a good look at the layout of the Charge Port harness. The general run of this harness is:

• J1772 inlet at the LR
• Inside the LR wheel well, across the top and down the front. The cables are in a hard-plastic carrier here, and covered by a thin mud protector
• Right to center of vehicle, across the top of the HV battery
• Continuing across the top of the HV battery, forward to the firewall area
• Harness splits: AC: up to the HVJB; CP/PP: to the OBC Logic Connector X042

Sidebar: Most of the 2013-2014 RAV4 EVs (but not the 2012) have the J1772 port and a short rear harness that is separate from the harness that runs to the front HVJB. This two-piece Charge Port harness was a running change; the first production vehicles had a single harness from the J1772 socket all the way forward, but that meant that damage to the J1772 physical socket meant replacing the entire harness -- the J1772 socket was not a field-serviceable/replaceable part -- and required dropping the 840 lb HV battery to replace the harness. Blink EVSEs were routinely melting sockets on these, so a lot of labor was spent until the harness was broken into two parts. Then the rear harness only could be replaced, relatively easily.

Front Charge Port harness:




There is a fairly thin flexible plastic cover in the LR wheel well that "protects" this wiring from physical damage. With it removed, looking forward:

Toyota RAV4 2014 Charge Port wiring

With the protector removed, looking straight up, the three service connectors for the rear harness/J1772 socket can be seen:

Toyota RAV4 2014 Charge Port wiring: rear of J1772 port

Toyota RAV4 2014 Charge Port wiring intermediate connectors

Rear of J1772 port. The J1772 inlet is fastened to an intermediate plate, which is welded to the inside panel but merely seam-sealed to the outside of the fenderwell.

Rear of J1772 inlet

Un-fasten a couple of harness clips, then unlock the AC connector (has CPA: dual locking, and it's delicate, so retract the green lock gently) and disconnect:




This is a fairly common connector, and I've asked if anybody knows how to source the shell & terminals.



Disconnect the remaining two connectors (PE (Ground) and the CP/PP harness) which are not CPA and thus straightforward to disconnect, then unbolt the J1772 port and rear harness:

Toyota RAV4 2014 Charge Port: removal of J1772 port

Remove the rear harness (ignore the "grommet" in this pic):

Rear Charge Port harness w/J1772 connector

Pry out the metal ring that's in the front groove of the "grommet", then pull the "grommet" out enough to work your left hand behind the door lock cable:

Inlet port weather boot ("grommet")

Reach behind the lock tab on the right, grasp the cable and twist 90° -- CCW as you would see it looking from the rear of the tab. Turn the cable, not not the black plastic retainer that you can see. The retainer feels as if it should turn, but it's keyed and cannot move more than a couple of degrees. The cable inserts bayonet-style into the rear of the black retainer. This is what you're facing:

Charge Port Door lock cable

Charge Port Door lock cable

Max attachment limit reached; cont'd in next post.

[asavage]

The Charge Port Door lock cable tab:

Charge Port Door lock tab

If I had one sage bit of advice here, it would be to try to keep your hand on the lock cable after turning it 90° and releasing it from the black retainer. I let mine get away from me, and it was ten minutes with a bent coathanger to persuade it to come back into vision during reassembly. It is in a curve and wants to straighten out . . . all the way to the LR taillight.


That pic shows the intermediate metal plate to which the J1772 inlet is fastened. It's welded to an inner panel, but only seam-sealed to the outer. Here's a view from underneath, after brushing all the accumlated dirt off (and onto my face):

Charge Port mounting

Charge Port mounting

Backing up a little, this "grommet" isn't just for show:

Charge Port mounting

With it removed, there is basically a path from the wheel well directly to the interior, next to the Tesla Gateway module . . .

Gateway module, under lock cable tab

. . . and, were I to remove that intermediate plate, there would be over a square foot of area to re-seal somehow. It's a very oddly shaped space as well, not at all amenable to typical methods I'm familiar with.



Initially, I thought to remove the welded intermediate plate to which the J1772 is affixed, and fab an appropriate support for a CCS1 inlet. However, the combo of the intermediate plate and the "grommet" are what is keeping wheel splash from delicate electronics inside. Sealing the top rear of a wheel well from water isn't my first choice for this kind of work.

Another issue is the space configuration: I've lots of space above the existing port, at least 3", so a CCS1 lock motor is no problem to fit there, but depth is an issue. I'll also have to carve out that existing 4" round hole to accommodate the larger CCS1 socket:

Taycan CCS1 socket held up to RAV4 EV Charge Port aperture

Which I expected, but the cables run straight off the rear and are not going to like transitioning 90° to the front. I would probably have to remove a section of the inner metal panel to gracefully turn those cables. Which means modifying the interior with a "bump".

---

Looking at the second problem first, I'm coming around to the notion of installing a NACS charge inlet for its smaller physical footprint and superior HV cable routing.

I've spent some time looking at GEN1 Model S NACS inlets today. The earliest port (for use before Aug2015 when Tesla went to a motorized flap and the port got manual release capability via a cable), 1005612-00-(E, G, H, K), has an admirably small footprint and the Model S method of bolting up the cables with lugs to the rear of the port makes the possibility of fitment in the RAV4's original port more appealing.

Telsa Model S early Charge Ports comparison

Tesla NACS Charge Port Model S 1005612-00-x 01

I'd still have to fab a panel (with bulkhead connectors! Ugh) at the top rear of the wheel well, and some kind of funnel/catch tray/drain for rain and car wash water coming in the Charge Port area to keep it from running directly into the interior to the rear of the Charge Port, but at least the cable fitment issue would go away.

That also implies always having to use external adapters, at least for a few years:

J1772->NACS at home and public chargers

Charge Adapter J1772 nozzle to NACS port 01

CCS1->NACS for DCFC

Charge Adapter CCS1 nozzle to NACS port 01

[asavage]

I'm coming around to the notion of installing a NACS charge inlet for its smaller physical footprint and superior HV cable routing.

I purchased a used Telsa Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G, and have disassembled it a bit.

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

With the LED funnel extension removed:

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Some rough measurements:

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Stripped the back covers:

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Everything except the orange HV cover:

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

Tesla Model S early Charge Port 1005612-00-G

(Max attachments per post)

[asavage]

I won't be using any of the onboard logic. I'll use the nozzle lock solenoid, its status switch, and perhaps the LED funnel extension, but the rest won't be used. I cut traces around the lock status switch and added my own leads, drilling a hole right through the center of the PCB's logic connector, bodge-style, and potting the result with epoxy.

Tesla Model S early Charge Port: modified lock status switch

Tesla Model S early Charge Port: modified lock status switch

Tesla Model S early Charge Port

[asavage]

Looking at the OEM routing of the existing AC leads, they follow where the petrol fuel pipe and main breather line would route, were this a petrol vehicle:




Unlike in the petrol/diesel version though, the HV battery pack's side rail occupies most of the available space. While it appears that there's room there, I doubt I can snake two more cables of approximately the same dia. as existing, through that space; the shadows are just not that large:

Toyota RAV4 2014 Charge Port wiring at front of wheel well

However, both the petrol & diesel versions of the GEN3 RAV4 (2006-2012, which is the chassis that was used for the 2012-2014 RAV4 EV) route a breather tube off to the right, snaking between the rear suspension mount and the shock absorber.

On the diesel (D-4D, for example), that horizontal breather line is the only breather line:

2008 RAV4 D-4D fuel filler breather line

2008 RAV4 D-4D fuel filler breather line

On the petrol versions, it's a "rear" breather line and not the main breather for the system -- it's complicated:

2012 RAV4 petrol "rear" breather line

My observation is that Toyota routed breather lines horizontally in this area.

Comparison of breather lines

This might form a HV DCFC cabling route, without dropping the HV battery pack.

[asavage]

RAV4 EV J1772 port harness connections in LR wheel well

The OEM RAV4 EV Charge Inlet Assy. is Toyota G9081-0R013.




Aside from the J1772 port, it has three connectors to interface with the rest of the vehicle, and it contains an internal 2k7 resistor from PP to PE (ground) for proper interface with EVSE.





Toyota refers to these three connectors as:

• jh1 : AC leads (2); Orange connector
• jh3 : PE (Ground) (1); White connector
• jh4 : CP/PE/Ground loopback w/resistor (3); Black connector

For a clean interface, I'd like to use these connection points on the vehicle. I'll need to incorporate the 2k7 resistor into my replacement wiring.

AC leads (jh1)




For the AC leads, I've been unable to ascertain the mfgr for the OEM harness' connector shell & terminals. The bare shell (no terminals) is sold as Toyota 82824-0R330 (connector ID: jh1), which has been discontinued by Toyota though the harness itself is still available. Unusual for Toyota, there is also not a repair terminal pigtail Part No. listed. Toyota doesn't supply terminals, only pigtails with terminal attached, but their parts system doesn't list one for this particular connector. This connector shell has been used on a long list of OEM applications, see below link.

For example, I purchased a used Toyota Prius 2010-2012 A/C wiring harness 82122-47010 via eBay for $31 and took it apart; the shell looks to be the same (the rear mat seal retain is a different color: white, vs. the RAV4's orange) and the terminals and wire gauge are lighter. I suspect I could use its shell though.

See viewtopic.php?t=3976 for more information and lots of pictures on the search for this "mystery connector".


PE lead (jh3)

RAV4 EV Charge Inlet Harness PE Connector 90980-11184

For the PE (white) connector, Toyota 90980-11184 (connector ID: jh3), I think:

• Shell is Yazaki 7283-3013-10
• Terminal is 7116-6047
• Wire seal is 7158-3024-60 (for silicon; NBR is an option)

The Yakazi replacement is gray; the Chinese knock-offs are black.

Yazaki Connector Housing 7283-3013-10

Yakazi Terminal 7116-6047

Yazaki Seal 7158-3024-60

CP/PP leads (jh4)



The CP/PP (black) connector, Toyota 90980-11349 (connector ID: jh4)






I think:

• Shell is Sumitomo 6189-0442 (other colors are available; see chart below)
• Terminals are Sumitomo 8100-0460 (for copper/tin & OEM 20-22 AWG) or 8100-0461 (for copper/tin & Tesla 16-20 AWG)
• Wire seals are Sumitomo 7165-0842 (for blue silicon & OEM .070" OD insulation) or 7165-0349 (for Tesla's 2.5mm OD insulation)

The OEM version has a black shell, & blue wire seals.





The easiest way to order this (for me) is from corsa-technic, which has a configuration to buy an assy. that allows me to choose the various shell color, terminals wire gauge, and wire seals, as a single item in the cart.

[asavage]

The start-of-production (SOP) Tesla Model S charge port uses a fairly large solenoid and bellcrank arrangement:

Telsla Model S early Charge Port: Nozzle lock mechanism, removed from housing

Mechanically, it is normally locked, and when current is applied to the solenoid, it moves to the unlocked position only when powered.

Telsla Model S early Charge Port (housing stripped)

Telsla Model S early Charge Port: Nozzle lock mechanism unlocked by solenoid

Telsla Model S early Charge Port: Nozzle lock mechanism, rear view with housing stripped

At 14.1v (typical Tesla LV), inrush current is above 5A, and this solenoid must be economized; if not, it will draw >4A continuously and it quickly overheats.

Telsla Model S early Charge Port: Nozzle lock solenoid.

I have not taken measurements on a real Model S, but I assume the solenoid is economized by the multi-function PCB in the stock assembly, which I am not using. I will need to economize this solenoid myself.

Telsla Model S early Charge Port: Rear view of PCB and nozzle lock.

On my bench, reliable solenoid pull-in requires ~12v & 4.5A, discounting inrush. However, only 2v @ 0.5A is required for hold-in.

[blackjmyntrn]

I love all of this. I have a 2013 Prius Plug-in and for a while there I considered using your battery as an upgrade, now the bz4x battery might work for you as well now that I think about it!

[asavage]

Replacing the battery modules, due to normal aging, or to take advantage of newer battery technology and higher energy density, has been on my radar for years, but will be a separate endeavor. I have been attempting to obtain an empty RAV4 EV battery case, so far unsuccessfully. Whole RAV4 EV batteries, with modules, are sometimes available, and someday I may purchase one for engineering purposes only, selling off the modules and retaining the case.

Adding DCFC is a more useful improvement ATM. Being limited to L2 charging is a significant hindrance to travel beyond the battery's range, and being able to DCFC would be a larger benefit than say adding another 50 miles of range.

[blackjmyntrn]

Replacing the battery modules, due to normal aging, or to take advantage of newer battery technology and higher energy density, has been on my radar for years, but will be a separate endeavor. I have been attempting to obtain an empty RAV4 EV battery case, so far unsuccessfully. Whole RAV4 EV batteries, with modules, are sometimes available, and someday I may purchase one for engineering purposes only, selling off the modules and retaining the case.

Adding DCFC is a more useful improvement ATM. Being limited to L2 charging is a significant hindrance to travel beyond the battery's range, and being able to DCFC would be a larger benefit than say adding another 50 miles of range.

Well, these days I travel with my 3D scanner, I've been on the look for one myself. If I do stumble upon one, I'll 3D scan it and will let you know.

[asavage]

My first 3D scanner: I bought a Creality Lizard last week -- got a near-new one for USD$370 -- and it is pretty useless for reverse-engineering the orange HV cover on the Tesla charge port. It'll make an OK scan, but there's so much detail that I want in exactly the right place, ±0.1mm (.004"), and the Lizard's specs say 0.05mm, but in practice I was unable to make a reproducible scan of any use after a dozen attempts, using tape, dots, powders, etc. In the end, I just did three days of measurements with calipers and a telescoping gauge set and drew it in F360, using the Lizards' mesh as a sanity check. The Lizard's field of view and focal length are just too limited for this kind of work where I want precise dimensions.

I also want to scan the inside of the LR fenderwell area, to get the irregular outline into CAD so I can perhaps reproduce a filler panel that also incorporates the equivalent of cable bulkhead connectors, or more probably a labyrinth to reduce water travel back/up to the charge port area. This doesn't need such precision, but I'm afraid that the narrow field of view of the Lizard will make this a less than perfect tool here as well.

I don't have a budget for an Einstar (~USD$900) or better. While I like to buy & collect tools, that one's a bit too rich for me. And I haven't found a 3D scanner rental service, which would be the best solution for me.

[Shockazulu1]

In the end, I just did three days of measurements with calipers and a telescoping gauge set and drew it in F360.

I found the same thing with a 3d scanner and I promptly resold the scanner on eBay.
I have since been using many measurements and TinkerCad, I get what I need.
What I recommend is that you use the measure and 3d draw method, to make a file you can 3d print, for the mount that you will need for your NACS Tesla connector, to fit inside your charger port door opening.
For the wires, resort to hard mounting the wires to the inside of the wheel well, using common nylon wire anchors spaced about 5 inches apart.
Than use a liquid material similar to the tar like undercoating used for rust protecting on the underside of vehicles.
Use this to get everything fully waterproof.

[asavage]

The Tesla Model S charge port has a plug-in harness for the CP/PP leads.


The early harness is fairly long, about 6'. One part No. is 1006033-00-B :

Tesla NACS Charge Port Model S Data Cable Harness, 6' version 1006033-00-B

The later ones are shorter, about 1'. One part No. is 1054074-00-C (possibly 2016-on?). They're sometimes cheaper than the earlier version -- right now, they're about half the cost, via eBay:

Tesla NACS Charge Port Model S Data Cable Harness, 1' version 1054074-00-C

In both cases the CP/PP/PE plug is identical. It plugs into the rear of the charge port:

Cable Harness, CP/PP/PE plug

[asavage]

The Tesla early Model S charge port has its power leads bolted to the rear of the port's pins, at a right angle and running toward the front of the vehicle.





Tesla used bespoke terminals and used ultrasonic welding of the cable to the terminals. This is a very tidy/compact solution.

I had thought to modify off-the-shelf ring lugs and run all-new power leads to my new HVJB. However, packaging is a problem here.

Tesla early Model S charge port rear, with all wiring removed.

The leads need to be routed in the same direction as Tesla's did in the Model S, and I need to maintain the plastic separator between the cables.

Tesla early Model S charge port rear, with all wiring removed and generic power lugs overlaid.

The lugs' hole centers cannot align with the fastener holes. I could reduce the ring terminal footprints by grinding them, though that will expose the underlying copper -- the point of the tin plating is to prevent corrosion of the copper -- but overall the overall lug footprint is too large for the available space; not only can I not fit the orange protective cover, which would be nice, but even my plan of 3D printing a larger cover won't fit -- I did model about 80% of a replacement cover before realizing this.


Abandoning the generic-lugs-with-new-cables idea, my next plan is to use Tesla cable ends, splicing them to the new power leads. I was trying to avoid a splice section at the top of the wheel well, but so be it.


USD$98 got me a very nice set of early Model S charge cables, 1030182-00-B. You can tell that they're early by the glands style on the HVJB end, which style was discontinued when the Rear HVJB went to GEN2 around late 2013.

I'll cut off the charge port ends, containing the special terminals and ultrasonic welds, around 6" from the ends, and splice to new.

Tesla NACS Charge Port Cables Model_S 1030182-00-B

1030182-00-B: special 90° lug

1030182-00-B: special 90° lug

1030182-00-B: factory routing at charge port rear

Next, now I need a couple of special M8 e-torx bolts. Sure, I could use std. M8, but the right dia. flange or washer is required, and I doubt these bolts are rare -- they just have to be scrounged from a Tesla, not from a fastener supplier.

Tesla NACS Charge Port Model S 1005612-00-x 01-1

[asavage]

The early Tesla Model S charge inlets have a problem with the plastic deadface breaking off the power pins. When it comes off, it can get stuck in the nozzle, it can fall into the bottom of the charge port, or it could run away and never send a postcard.

The same problem plagues some of the Model 3/Y, but on those models there's a service bulletin and a field-serviceable replacement deadface, so it can be fixed for little outlay, but AFAIK there is no fix for the Model S: you're supposed to buy a new charge port assy. (USD$900?) and replace it all.

Or, you can steal a power pin from a JY/eBay/etc. unit and swap out a power pin with a broken plastic deadface for a "good" used one. Here's a five-year-old video that nicely explains:





For this reason, I'd like to have the ability to remove my NACS charge port for service in future, and that means I need slack in those stiff power cables. On the Model S, one can access the charge port's cable bolts from inside the trunk, but I do not have that luxury. I'll need to un-fasten whatever cable retainers I have holding up the cables in the LR wheel well, to obtain enough slack to withdraw the charge port forward and down.

Since I'm now planning to splice the Model S charge leads to new 50mm² cables (that will run above the OEM battery box to a new HVJB in front), I thought to incorporate a disconnect ~6" forward of the charge port. This would make servicing the port a snap, because most disconnects require around 2" (50mm) to separate, and that much slack is relatively easy to build into the run. However, I chased a suitable disconnect for pretty much a man-week with no success.

There is an Amphenol product that would work splendidly (on paper) but there's no stock anywhere I could locate, and factory order is 8 weeks (OK), MOQ = (40) (not OK). Here's a summary of most of the brands/models of connectors I researched:





So, I'm giving up on installing a disconnect at the 2x50mm² splice, which still leaves splicing two HV cables. Member muehlpower had a good suggestion: basically two std. cable glands, having M25 x 1.5 threads, screwed to an off-the-shelf M25 electrical conduit coupler. Unfortunately, the couplers you can buy easily are galvanised steel, the one very nice SS one (UKG25) is not able to be purchased outside the UK and IRL unless you have a trade account with Rexel, and the three other distributors I contacted all stated they will not ship to the US, period. That leaves a nice aluminum one, but two different distributors of that item wanted USD$100 & $150 to ship two $5 parts to me. Screw that.

As it happens, that coupler is only 36mm long anyway, and once you screw in two cable glands, there would be no length left for the butt splice. So, the current plan is to fab a tube housing instead.

The cost of SS round bar isn't horrible in the dia. and length I'd need. Initially, I thought of buying an M25 x 1.5 tap, 23.5mm (59/64") twist drill, and SS round bar, but I'd probably want a taper tap and they're rare in that size, though I could possibly get by with a plug tap. I only need to tap ~13mm deep on both ends. But I have only a sorta mill but no lathe, and I can't imagine the cost of fixturing I'd need to do this safely with the equipment I have, plus the questionable quality of taps I could buy (or pay for a known-good quality one), I'd have to buy three tools I'd likely never use again before I die, and . . . there's gotta be a better way.

When I come up with these machining dilemmas, my fall-back formula is to substitute welding for machining.

Now, each tube will be fab'd from T304SS pipe, 1-1/4" nominal (1.66" OD) (42mm Ø) Schedule 80 -- which is a thicker pipe wall of .191" (4.9mm), cut to ~75mm length. Then weld M25 x 1.5 T304SS nuts to each end, forming a neat, compact, weatherproof, corrosion resistant, tubular j-box for the splice. Two req'd.

Those M25 x 1.5 SS nuts are tough to locate. SKF makes a lovely bearing retaining locknut that I've used before (in the Tesla LDU, the pinion bearing retaining nut), KM 5 that is the correct thread -- but it's only 7mm tall; the cable glands I've purchased need ~9-10mm of thread, and I really want to stick with all-SS, due to the location.

KTM motorcycles use an aluminum axle nut of the right configuration, and there's an aftermarket supply of titanium replacements, but neither will bond to SS well. McMaster-Carr has a nylock bearing retainer nut of 11mm height and T303SS (close enough) but I'd have to melt out the nylon retainer material, and more importantly the nuts are $39 ea. (and I need four).

I found an Aliexpress nut that purports to be T304SS and has 10mm height. That, combined with the pipe's ID being larger than M25, should work well. Ordered, now to wait the typical three weeks until they arrive.

[Shockazulu1]

I'm working on same vehicle 2014 Toyota RAV4 EV. But attempting a different path hoping this doesn't take your thread to far off from it's original direction. But it's possible you may choose one of the variations my project goes in.
First I'm going to use a BMW i3 CCS1 connector mounted into the front bumper. I'll mount it in place of the EV logo currently on the front bumper. I'll be replacing the EV logo with a standard Toyota logo. I have found the logo from the front hood of a 2012 3rd Gen Toyota Prius is about the largest they made them. Perfect for fabricating into a charge door cover. Next due to space I'll need to mount the CCS1 connector sideways. Unfortunately due to space. I have seen this done on EV builds in Europe that use a much larger CCS2 connector.
I'm comfortable with this choice in plug location. I'll leave the original AC charger port in the rear the way it is and continue to use it for AC charging at home or on the road.
My thought now is there are potentially 3 locations to connect the DC chargers voltage, to get it to the battery.
The go to location so far has been using a bathtub setup connected directly to the battery.
But, 2 other possible locations would be the DC input lines on the inverter or the DC output lines from the onboard charger.
Right now I'm considering connecting directily to the DC output cables from the onboard charger.
I'll need to make a bathtub type cover with extender bolts so I can directly access these connectors.
Connecting similar to the way they connected the JDEMO setup directly to the battery. Only my bathtub connector will be on the side of the onboard charger located under the hood.
I haven't even looked yet to see if there is enough space to connect to the side of the OBC, just throwing out my thoughts at this moment.

[blackjmyntrn]

My first 3D scanner: I bought a Creality Lizard last week -- got a near-new one for USD$370 -- and it is pretty useless for reverse-engineering the orange HV cover on the Tesla charge port. It'll make an OK scan, but there's so much detail that I want in exactly the right place, ±0.1mm (.004"), and the Lizard's specs say 0.05mm, but in practice I was unable to make a reproducible scan of any use after a dozen attempts, using tape, dots, powders, etc. In the end, I just did three days of measurements with calipers and a telescoping gauge set and drew it in F360, using the Lizards' mesh as a sanity check. The Lizard's field of view and focal length are just too limited for this kind of work where I want precise dimensions.

I also want to scan the inside of the LR fenderwell area, to get the irregular outline into CAD so I can perhaps reproduce a filler panel that also incorporates the equivalent of cable bulkhead connectors, or more probably a labyrinth to reduce water travel back/up to the charge port area. This doesn't need such precision, but I'm afraid that the narrow field of view of the Lizard will make this a less than perfect tool here as well.

I don't have a budget for an Einstar (~USD$900) or better. While I like to buy & collect tools, that one's a bit too rich for me. And I haven't found a 3D scanner rental service, which would be the best solution for me.

hahaha.. soo.. umm.. you should visit my blog.. I solved all the lizard not working stuff... but the thing is, its less about the scanner and more about what you do with the scans after you get them.

https://black.jmyntrn.com/2023/04/14/ho ... ty-lizard/
https://black.jmyntrn.com/2022/08/07/wh ... ty-lizard/

The only issue I've had is, and maybe its how I scanned but.. I can never get bolt holes to align and I have a pretty neat workflow from CR to Meshlabs then Meshmizer and on into Fusion 360.

[scanned file into Fusion]

[scanned with a $30k 3D scanner and it took less than 30 minutes with a few dots, misted with aircraft spray. ]

[how it looks with electric motor in place]

[asavage]

After much futzing about, I've just ordered Lapp inline connectors; the housings are inexpensive, but the crimp contacts are ~USD$80 each, x4, so the total is quite high. I was not able to find suitable alternatives that didn't involve something even bulkier, and I do not have the room. The pipe-with-cable-glands idea was getting nearly as expensive, and isn't as easily disassembled. Upside is that I now own a much better chop saw (Fein 1400 RPM) and SS-capable 14" blades :/

The Lapp Epic Powerlock connectors do not preserve the EMC shielding, so I'll have around 2'/700mm of unshielded DCFC HV cabling (Charge Inlet to Lapp connectors).

• Receptacle Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock F6 C, Black “L2”, M40, 44420214
  https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution
• Plug Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock D6 C, Black “L2”, M40, 44420219
  https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution
• Receptacle Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock F6 C, Red “L1”, M40, 44420318
  https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution
• Plug Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock D6 C, Red “L1”, M40, 44420319
  https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution
• Crimp Contact “Source” (male?), LAPP Epic Powerlock QCM 50 (50mm²), 44420291
  https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... p-to-240mm
• Crimp Contact “Drain” (female?), LAPP Epic Powerlock SCM 50 (50mm²), 44420294
  https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... p-to-240mm

Lapp D6:
https://products.lappgroup.com/online-catalogue/epic-industrial-connectors/circular-connectors/epic-powerlock-crimp-660a/epic-powerlock-f6-c.html?type=1664268841

Lapp F6:
https://products.lappgroup.com/online-catalogue/epic-industrial-connectors/circular-connectors/epic-powerlock-crimp-660a/epic-powerlock-f6-c.html?type=1664268841

Lapp D6/F6 crimp contacts:
https://products.lappgroup.com/fileadmin/documents/technische_doku/datenblaetter/EPIC/EPIC/DB44420260EN.pdf

More discussion of the design options I considered are in this thread.

[asavage]

Last September, when we still had good weather, a friend & I had an enjoyable day at the somewhat-local breakers. While this wasn't strictly necessary, I enjoy a sunny day at the junkyard, and it was a good excuse to enjoy a sunny Fall day. Friend Mark is manning the saws today in Poulsbo, Washington:

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter

The arrangement of the petrol fill tube and vent plumbing above the LR tyre. This is where the OEM EV charge port wiring runs on my EV version.

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter: petrol plumbing

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter: petrol plumbing

Here's what the EV version looks like:


Good thing I brought two plastic Craftsman "Sawzalls", because one of them broke on that job


At home, I used a single spot-weld drill to bore through ~40 spot welds to separate the inner and outer skins. The glue resisted mightily:

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter (outer: left; inner: right)

2006 Toyota RAV4 LR Quarter (inner)

Nominally, this is to aid in fashioning a somewhat weather-tight charge port cubby up in the "attic" of the rear of the fenderwell. This will have to be cut out and something water-resistant fab'd:



The issues include:

• The charge port must remain dry, as the Model S charge port is not designed to be exposed to the elements on its backside
• Everything to the left/rear of the charge port must also remain dry, as it's the vehicle's interior, plus there's an expensive electronic Gateway located there

It'll be tricky to keep the water/mud ahead of the charge port, and still be able to disconnect/remove the charge port for future service.

[Bratitude]

Seriously awesome documentation, and work!

note about your issue with grinding dow. The generic crimp terminals…. The Tesla ones have exposed copper…so I don’t see the issue

[Arlin]

How did you make out with this?