Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
- asavage
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Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
This type of HV connection is ubiquitous and many manufacturers offer a variation on it:
However, once cable size reaches 10mm² or 25mm², the male portion of these connectors is only available as a panel-mount, never for a sealed wire connection.
I have a need to connect two 50mm²leads in a detachable way (ie not spliced) on the exterior of the vehicle (ie needs to be IP67+), and I am not finding a product that meets those criteria. Bonus if the connector can handle EMC shielded cabling, but that's not a requirement for my app.
I've spent around two days full-time looking for this without success, so I'm throwing the question out there for you.
However, once cable size reaches 10mm² or 25mm², the male portion of these connectors is only available as a panel-mount, never for a sealed wire connection.
I have a need to connect two 50mm²leads in a detachable way (ie not spliced) on the exterior of the vehicle (ie needs to be IP67+), and I am not finding a product that meets those criteria. Bonus if the connector can handle EMC shielded cabling, but that's not a requirement for my app.
I've spent around two days full-time looking for this without success, so I'm throwing the question out there for you.
- rstevens81
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
I haven't seen anything in my travels...
The only suggestion is mounting the socket end in one of these and putting it in the transmission tunnel.
The only suggestion is mounting the socket end in one of these and putting it in the transmission tunnel.
Rule 1 of EV Club is don't buy a rust bucket....
Which rule does everyone forget
Which rule does everyone forget
- asavage
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
Unfortunately, I'm working in a wheel well and have few alternate options that don't involve cutting through to the interior, running down to the floor, then back outside.
I can splice, that's not a problem, but that will severely complicate servicing the charge inlet in future. Having a disconnect on this line would make servicing possible.
I have to think there's an off-the-shelf product for the male portion of these larger connectors. I found one in the UK, but each half is about 8" (~200mm) long! Making each mating connection almost 1.5' and of course rigid. Not an option.
(What's a "transmission tunnel" on a modern FWD car?)
I can splice, that's not a problem, but that will severely complicate servicing the charge inlet in future. Having a disconnect on this line would make servicing possible.
I have to think there's an off-the-shelf product for the male portion of these larger connectors. I found one in the UK, but each half is about 8" (~200mm) long! Making each mating connection almost 1.5' and of course rigid. Not an option.
(What's a "transmission tunnel" on a modern FWD car?)
- rstevens81
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
Maybe time to think outside the box?
Why not fit the chargeport under the front numberplate (put plate on hinges)
or mount the chargeport in the front grill (3d printed rubbery cap maybe)
and there's even the option of just putting it under the bonnet and poping the Binet when you need fast charge.
As for the fuel filler point you could always add a second Ali type 2 or even a type 1.
Edit... Oh I did forget about the enclosure...if you find one that is just big enough to hold the socket you can drill the opposite side and fit glands, you might want some bent bussbar just to make bolting cables a little easier....if your rear tyre is not too deep there should be space where you can fix it or make some sort of bracket.
Edit 2... Does it matter which way round the tail you found in the UK goes? I.e use it backwards ...You could have the rigid bit where you run it under the car? Rember it's never going to be live except when in use and the contactors will be open so even if you stuck you fingers on the terminals it wouldn't be live
Why not fit the chargeport under the front numberplate (put plate on hinges)
or mount the chargeport in the front grill (3d printed rubbery cap maybe)
and there's even the option of just putting it under the bonnet and poping the Binet when you need fast charge.
As for the fuel filler point you could always add a second Ali type 2 or even a type 1.
Edit... Oh I did forget about the enclosure...if you find one that is just big enough to hold the socket you can drill the opposite side and fit glands, you might want some bent bussbar just to make bolting cables a little easier....if your rear tyre is not too deep there should be space where you can fix it or make some sort of bracket.
Edit 2... Does it matter which way round the tail you found in the UK goes? I.e use it backwards ...You could have the rigid bit where you run it under the car? Rember it's never going to be live except when in use and the contactors will be open so even if you stuck you fingers on the terminals it wouldn't be live
Rule 1 of EV Club is don't buy a rust bucket....
Which rule does everyone forget
Which rule does everyone forget
- asavage
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
This isn't a scratch-built DIY EV conversion, it's an existing OEM BEV that doesn't have DCFC. I have to work within the framework I have, and ugly isn't an option. While I appreciate your outside-the-box ideas, the problem I'm solving is a wiring disconnect problem, not a packaging or location one, and that's why I provided only the parameters of the problem I'm solving, not the bigger picture. Still, I'll address your ideas.
If I have to use a fixed splice, I will, but . . . alternate ideas to mount a charge port wasn't the question I asked.
I'm trying to maintain serviceability for the day when I'll have to remove the charge inlet to repair/replace the large pins: Tesla Model S early charge ports with the problematic pins whose non-replaceable plastic deadfaces break off; the entire pin must be replaced from used stock when this happens. There are NO aftermarket NACS ports (with nozzle locking) that I can find, so using a Tesla part is the only way forward. And I want to be able to remove the port, replace the pin(s), and reinstall it, without having to un-mount two yards of wiring from the chassis in order to flex twin 50mm²/16mm OD cables enough to withdraw the port from its mounting location above/behind the LR wheel well: the OEM location.
I have no fixed rear license plate on this vehicle; it's a RAV4 with a side-swinging rear. Unless mounted below the rear bumper (ala Damien and the . . . Grey Goose?), there's NO place at the rear of the vehicle for it.
There might be room above the front bumper in the grille area; another RAV4 owner is planning on mounting a charge inlet there, but I have my doubts if it can be made to fit. The grille has a significant slope and has the A/C condenser directly behind it. The resulting access would be laid back on that slope, impossible to keep weather out, and the Model S NACS port does not have a weather cover -- even the OEM installs were prone to icing, and mounting it other than perpendicular to the earth would be disastrous in winter.
The front bumper . . . is a bumper. Can't mount in it for the obvious reason that . . . it's a bumper. Mounting anything to a modern plastic bumper is insane. I don't know where you live, but my bumpers have taken significant damage over the years.
Others have put the charge port under the bonnet, that can be done, yes. But it's significantly non-optimal to open the bonnet to DCFC from the standpoints of, again, weather; security, and the aesthetics are lousy. I have an existing J1772 port in the OEM location currently, and there's room for the NACS charge inlet in its place; there's no reason to relocate it elsewhere.
---
Tom, while I knew that the HSVL line has 1-pole connectors, I had missed that -- buried in the catalog -- that the 1-pole connectors is their ONLY offering with an inline receptacle:
Their How to Order chart also lists 25-70mm² as options. That looks to be exactly what I'm looking for, and I thank you for the second look at that catalog. I spent many hours peering at datasheets and catalogs and missed it -- which is kind of what I figured I must have done.
If I have to use a fixed splice, I will, but . . . alternate ideas to mount a charge port wasn't the question I asked.
I'm trying to maintain serviceability for the day when I'll have to remove the charge inlet to repair/replace the large pins: Tesla Model S early charge ports with the problematic pins whose non-replaceable plastic deadfaces break off; the entire pin must be replaced from used stock when this happens. There are NO aftermarket NACS ports (with nozzle locking) that I can find, so using a Tesla part is the only way forward. And I want to be able to remove the port, replace the pin(s), and reinstall it, without having to un-mount two yards of wiring from the chassis in order to flex twin 50mm²/16mm OD cables enough to withdraw the port from its mounting location above/behind the LR wheel well: the OEM location.
I have no fixed rear license plate on this vehicle; it's a RAV4 with a side-swinging rear. Unless mounted below the rear bumper (ala Damien and the . . . Grey Goose?), there's NO place at the rear of the vehicle for it.
There might be room above the front bumper in the grille area; another RAV4 owner is planning on mounting a charge inlet there, but I have my doubts if it can be made to fit. The grille has a significant slope and has the A/C condenser directly behind it. The resulting access would be laid back on that slope, impossible to keep weather out, and the Model S NACS port does not have a weather cover -- even the OEM installs were prone to icing, and mounting it other than perpendicular to the earth would be disastrous in winter.
The front bumper . . . is a bumper. Can't mount in it for the obvious reason that . . . it's a bumper. Mounting anything to a modern plastic bumper is insane. I don't know where you live, but my bumpers have taken significant damage over the years.
Others have put the charge port under the bonnet, that can be done, yes. But it's significantly non-optimal to open the bonnet to DCFC from the standpoints of, again, weather; security, and the aesthetics are lousy. I have an existing J1772 port in the OEM location currently, and there's room for the NACS charge inlet in its place; there's no reason to relocate it elsewhere.
---
Tom, while I knew that the HSVL line has 1-pole connectors, I had missed that -- buried in the catalog -- that the 1-pole connectors is their ONLY offering with an inline receptacle:
Their How to Order chart also lists 25-70mm² as options. That looks to be exactly what I'm looking for, and I thank you for the second look at that catalog. I spent many hours peering at datasheets and catalogs and missed it -- which is kind of what I figured I must have done.
- asavage
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
Unfortunately, not stocked anywhere. I looked extensively for the receptacle (HVSL1000011x050), and the two places that would factory order it quote 8 weeks (OK) and MOQ of (40) (not OK).
I didn't look as hard for the inline plug, HVSL1000061x050.
(x denotes keying = [a,b,c,d])
I didn't look as hard for the inline plug, HVSL1000061x050.
(x denotes keying = [a,b,c,d])
- asavage
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
I've struck out on eight connectors manufacturers:
Links to mfgrs' catalogs (where available):
Links to mfgrs' catalogs (where available):
- muehlpower
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
Maybe that's suitable. Cable 50mm² to 120mm². At least easy to get here in Germany. In different colors and codings, also in red and black for direct current.
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- muehlpower
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
If only the cables are to be extended, I could imagine a combination of a threaded sleeve, connector and two cable glands. Inside it could be isolated with shrink tubing and/or casting resin. The shield would also go through. Definitely the cheaper option.
- asavage
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
Thanks for suggesting the Lapp Epic F6/D6 connector. They do meet the criteria I stated above: 50mm², >125A, IP67, available*, and inline.
Without the glands on either end, assembled together these come to ~180mm (~7.25") in length.
Cable glands' length are in addition to that. The recommended Skintop STR-M 53111450 (M40, cable range 9-23mm) is 43-52mm long (2"). Each. That brings each assembly to almost a foot long. I'm hoping for something a bit shorter, to fit at the top of a wheel well arch.
To un-mate them, ~50mm (~2") of linear cable movement is required. Not bad.
Those M40 cable glands are 56mm Ø (2.25" dia). Bulky.
* = My usual electronics distributors do not carry this line: all have zero stock:
Mouser
Digikey
Newark
TME
Perhaps you can recommend a distributor that carries this line? What I'm finding are many places in your area that sell, but shipping to US is >€100 !
---
I am about to give up on the idea of disconnects at this location. Your idea of back-to-back cable glands is a good one. I was thinking of a single butt splice connector (which I already own) and three layers of heat-shrink tubing, plus a plastic stone chip panel over all the wiring, but your idea has merit as well.
[several hours searching later]
M25 Cable glands are easily available to me.
However, I can't buy an M25 (G25) conduit coupler like the Fränkische 21050025 . https://en.elektrotools.de/Product/Coup ... m-21050025 quotes >€150 shipping to US for two €4 parts.
I can find many galvanised steel ones, but galv is not desireable. Electrix/Rexel and SS is reasonably priced (UKG25, for example) but again, no distributors will ship it to US unless I use a commercial account.
I can buy 300mm of 1.5" Ø T304 SS and an M25x1.5 tap and make two myself for half the cost, though it will not be fun on my equipment. Perhaps I'll do that.
Without the glands on either end, assembled together these come to ~180mm (~7.25") in length.
Cable glands' length are in addition to that. The recommended Skintop STR-M 53111450 (M40, cable range 9-23mm) is 43-52mm long (2"). Each. That brings each assembly to almost a foot long. I'm hoping for something a bit shorter, to fit at the top of a wheel well arch.
To un-mate them, ~50mm (~2") of linear cable movement is required. Not bad.
Those M40 cable glands are 56mm Ø (2.25" dia). Bulky.
* = My usual electronics distributors do not carry this line: all have zero stock:
Mouser
Digikey
Newark
TME
Perhaps you can recommend a distributor that carries this line? What I'm finding are many places in your area that sell, but shipping to US is >€100 !
---
I am about to give up on the idea of disconnects at this location. Your idea of back-to-back cable glands is a good one. I was thinking of a single butt splice connector (which I already own) and three layers of heat-shrink tubing, plus a plastic stone chip panel over all the wiring, but your idea has merit as well.
[several hours searching later]
M25 Cable glands are easily available to me.
However, I can't buy an M25 (G25) conduit coupler like the Fränkische 21050025 . https://en.elektrotools.de/Product/Coup ... m-21050025 quotes >€150 shipping to US for two €4 parts.
I can find many galvanised steel ones, but galv is not desireable. Electrix/Rexel and SS is reasonably priced (UKG25, for example) but again, no distributors will ship it to US unless I use a commercial account.
I can buy 300mm of 1.5" Ø T304 SS and an M25x1.5 tap and make two myself for half the cost, though it will not be fun on my equipment. Perhaps I'll do that.
- muehlpower
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
Shipping shouldn't be a problem. I can get the parts and send them to the US.
You should check whether the M25 cable glands are enough for you and take the lengths into account.
You should check whether the M25 cable glands are enough for you and take the lengths into account.
- asavage
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
The Fränkische 21050025 has an overall length of 36mm.
Tentatively, I've settled on Lapp Skintop 53112640 (M25, plated brass) for cable glands. Allowing for o-ring compression and tolerance error, each gland will consume ~10mm of threads from the coupler when installed.
That leaves ~16mm axial space in the coupler for a connection
The Klauke 126R/BK 50mm² butt splice you mentioned are 56mm in length.
The Molex 19215-0047 1/0 AWG butt splice that I stock are ~37mm in length.
It looks like I'll be making my own, longer coupling, perhaps ~75mm OAL -- around twice as long at the Fränkische unit.
Tentatively, I've settled on Lapp Skintop 53112640 (M25, plated brass) for cable glands. Allowing for o-ring compression and tolerance error, each gland will consume ~10mm of threads from the coupler when installed.
That leaves ~16mm axial space in the coupler for a connection

The Klauke 126R/BK 50mm² butt splice you mentioned are 56mm in length.
The Molex 19215-0047 1/0 AWG butt splice that I stock are ~37mm in length.
It looks like I'll be making my own, longer coupling, perhaps ~75mm OAL -- around twice as long at the Fränkische unit.
- asavage
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Re: Inline wire HV disconnects that are IP67+
After much futzing about, I've ordered the Lapp connectors; the housings are inexpensive, but the crimp contacts are ~USD$80 each, x4, so the total is quite high. But I was not able to find suitable alternatives that didn't involve something even bulkier, and I do not have the room.
- Receptacle Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock F6 C, Black “L2”, M40, 44420214
https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution - Plug Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock D6 C, Black “L2”, M40, 44420219
https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution - Receptacle Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock F6 C, Red “L1”, M40, 44420318
https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution - Plug Housing, LAPP Epic Powerlock D6 C, Red “L1”, M40, 44420319
https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... stribution - Crimp Contact “Source” (male?), LAPP Epic Powerlock QCM 50 (50mm²), 44420291
https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... p-to-240mm - Crimp Contact “Drain” (female?), LAPP Epic Powerlock SCM 50 (50mm²), 44420294
https://www.electricautomationnetwork.c ... p-to-240mm