Thanks Tom. Yes, that’s the plan - seal all holes well and isolate the phase wires with multiple layers of insulation and then wrap it all in thick plastic and cable tie to the underbody. It’s a high vehicle so it should be fine.

Hello,

I'm midway through a hybrid camper conversion project, and one diff has an outlander rear motor on it, and the other has the original petrol engine. The outlander rear motor turns when the wheels turn, but it is not hooked up to an inverter or cooling lines.

December is coming, and we are ...

Brilliant, thanks arber. Wheels are turning on my project, this is next. Very exciting.

Hello, does anyone have a view on whether the Outlander rear inverter can be used upside ways or upside down? Space is tight and I’m trying to evaluate all options.

Cool, thanks J0hannes, will do!

Hello,

I appreciate that most projects are full EV conversions, so this is moot for most. I'm working on a hybrid conversion, with one axle driven by an Outlander drive unit and the other driven by a petrol motor. The petrol motor has an alternator, and is started conventionally by a starter motor ...

Awesome to see this brat. I'm hot on your heels with a syncro with front diff replaced with outlander RDU. A word of caution. Treat the syncro gearbox gently - it shouldn't be exposed to over 200Nm, 180Nm is better, and keep your throtramp gentle. It's a tough gearbox, but it doesn't handle more ...

Zombieverter needs an IVT shunt to get voltage readings.

@Joowerss do you have any links to demonstrations of the Prius Gen3 inverter controlling the HSG? That sounds quite interesting and I'd like to try it out.

Alternatively, you could simply wire up a FWD/REVERSE button, only use the forward gears of the gearbox, and reverse by pressing the button.

Low side means negative, high side positive.

The Zombie contactor control uses an IVT shunt to operate. So you absolutely need an IVT shunt, properly initialised, and sending CAN messages of the voltage on the battery side and the component side of the contactors.

Once that’s set up, with contactors open, you’ll have the battery voltage ...

Johu, do you want to hand over the wiki and forum administration as well?

If you do, I think it is well worth the time to create searchable backups that don't allow for adding information, but are online forever in the event of things going south. I have been part of communities where the handover ...

I’ve got a multimeter and a variable voltage power supply that can go up to 60v. With those two tools you can get a very long way.

I got a secondhand Zombie from someone who abandoned their build. It was fully populated, but the software version was really old so I had to manually (with UART) flash both the board and the wifi board.

There's another guy in Hout Bay who bought the EUR350 one and is currently building it.

I'm ...

Hey elShankos, good to see you are making progress! I'm in Cape Town as well, and moving at the same pace. I've managed to get a Zombieverter properly configured on the bench, so if you need and help with wiring things up do let me know - happy to meet up and debug if needed.

Hello.

I bought 3 x Volvo/Eltek 3kw water cooled chargers from Zapatero when he parted out his Subaru AWD build. They have been sitting in my garage for the last 2 years, and I've realised that an Outlander unit would be more appropriate for my build.

I paid EUR299 for each of them, I'd be happy ...

Howdy! Interesting project. I have thought about similar configurations in a fair amount of depth over the last few years. Some thoughts, in no particular order -

1. The cleanest transfer case solution I have seen is to use the Land Rover LT230 to drive front and rear axles. Bulletproof transfer ...

Hi tensa,

I had quite a lot of trouble as well a few months ago. In the end, what worked was to actually just bite the bullet and update via UART.

I posted my feedback here if you need a bit of guidance. If I were to do it again I would just go straight to UART reflash.

https://openinverter.org ...

Well, if you go electric AWD, you’ll need to figure out how to control both motors. Maybe one pedal signal split to two controllers? The alternative is one controller that is capable of controlling two motors. I’m not sure if anything supports that.

The rest of the low voltage, high voltage and ...

As far as I am aware the leaf BMS is tightly integrated to the overall operation of the vehicle. I think the only way you would be able to pull this off would be to purchase leaf replacement modules from a place like Alibaba and swapping out the old modules with the new ones, retaining the original ...

Hi Marvin,

I had quite a lot of trouble with updating past 2.15 on my quite old Zombieverter. The behaviour was as you described - no spot values or parameters. With 2.17 the issue was intermittent, and with 2.20 I pretty much never had any success.

I tried many different ways to solve the ...

Well, tom91, I just managed to get this working this afternoon while avoiding my day job. There were several issues which I will mention here as a possible help to others.

Mainly, this was an issue of user error, with a bit of undocumented 'earlier owner modification' sprinkled over.

To get my ...

I have managed to successfully connect the ESP32 to the ZombieVerter. In the end, I changed nothing from my last post. For clarity, here is the configuration that works for ZombieVerter V2.20. A lot of this is documented in many places, but I'm repeating it here anyway.

1. Connect the ESP32 to CAN1 ...

Although I no longer need to get the ESP32 communicating with the ZombieVerter because my Olimex is back up and running, I feel honour bound to try answer the original question because I couldn't find an answer when I was looking, and others will probably land on this forum post when they want to ...