2008 Nissan Quest Van with Tesla SDU.

[Proton]

At this point I think I spent 1 year troubleshooting something that never worked?? I am on the latest code and same CURRENTLIMIT error. The inverter/motor temperature is good.

Accelerating backwards (originally motor forward) works, but going forward(original motor reverse) cuts out and is jerky if I keep pressing the acceleration after the initial power loss and is violent if I accelerate to much. Going in reverse(originally forward) sometimes cuts out but is not violent, and can also accelerate hard going backwards.

Not sure if when I tested the car initially with just a solar panel and super capacitors at 40v, and no water cooling the inverter, might have damaged the inverter.

Also I do not understand why the power loss is violent when I am going forward (originally reverse). same time other people are using the Tesla SDU in reverse with no issues.
I ordered a new motor that should be on the way. Not sure if I should move the existing Open Inverter board in the new Inverter or just ordering a new one.

I played with a bunch of settings and I see the difference in acceleration but power still cuts out going Forward.

[johu]

Have you tried iacmax 0 and tmphsmax 120? This disables current and temperature limit. Might fry the inverter for good but you have a new one coming anyway

[Proton]

Have you tried iacmax 0 and tmphsmax 120? This disables current and temperature limit. Might fry the inverter for good but you have a new one coming anyway

I tried iacmax 0. I can try the tmphsmax 120 tomorrrow/today

[Proton]

I changed the iacmax 0 and tmphsmax 120, and the behavior is the same.
Now the last error is THROTTLE1

[johu]

I'm out of ideas for now. Still read this about throttle pedal setup

viewtopic.php?t=5075

[alexbeatle]

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I'm fighting high inverter temps myself right now. Looking at your graph perhaps tmpm is on the high side? Try plotting tmpm vs. speed, idc vs. speed and udc vs. speed (one value on the left, another - on the right, since these have different units)

https://openinverter.org/parameters/view.html?id=27

These were a good starting point for my van. You'd need to adjust few things to match your setup - throttle calibration, switching voltage for precharge etc, but otherwise it should work if your batteries are capable. These parameters don't have regen though and a little aggressive for me - the rear of my van sags before takeoff. Still in calibration for mine....

Incidentally, your don't have any CAN messages to inverter?

Also. I had handbrake mechanical issues. I'm sure you've checked that, but just throwing it out there.

[Proton]

I'm out of ideas for now. Still read this about throttle pedal setup

viewtopic.php?t=5075

Looking at that article I am going to change to the lower voltage throttle input for my pedal.

Can you clarify here viewtopic.php?t=5075 what ground you are referring too? Somebody already asked that question there.

[Proton]

So I corrected the screenshot above with the throttle pedal sensor 1 and 2.
Sensor 1 has higher voltage and was the one I was using. I tried today the Sensor 2 but the car was moving only after the pedal was already half pushed so I reversed to sensor 1.

[alexbeatle]

That makes sense if you didn't adapt the potmin and potmax after changing the pedal output.

Great starting point by johu....

[Proton]

@Johu


I just got the 2nd inverter and I observed that the HVIL connector was only half way pushed in. Can that give the symptoms I observed so far.

[johu]

HVIL faults show as "OVERCURRENT". You can override HVIL by shorting the pins

[Proton]

I pushed in the connector and tried again. No luck - CURRENTLIMIT. I will have to swap the open inverter board on the new Inverter.
It still bothers me why only affects Forward and not Reverse.

[johu]

I don't understand how you can still get the CURRENTLIMIT message with iacmax=0. Here's the code

Code: Select all

   s32fp imax = Param::Get(Param::iacmax);
   s32fp ilMax = ProcessCurrents();

   //setting of 0 disables current limiting
   if (imax == 0) return ampnom;
   ... Here comes the current limit code that should no longer be executed ...

[Proton]

I don't understand how you can still get the CURRENTLIMIT message with iacmax=0. Here's the code

I reloaded the parameters and forgot to change it back. I will change that to 0 and post again the error, if I get any.

[Proton]

with iacmax=0 now, as soon as I put the ignition on I get THROTTLE1 error.I do not even have to be in Forward or Reverse.
Car is still moving full speed in reverse(originally forward) and forward keeps doing the same thing; slowly moving and if I push little on the acceleration it cuts out.and keep cutting out and vibrating if I keep my foot on the acceleration even a little.
The error never changes from THROTTLE1 I also attached the throttle settings.

[johu]

THROTTLE1 means the throttle calibration is off. Have you read and done this? viewtopic.php?t=5075

The 5.35.R firmware requires it. You can also revert to 5.32 to skip this for now

EDIT: it's also helpful if you try to pull a json dump in the respective situation. Like calling http://192.168.4.1/cmd?cmd=json at the very instant where the problem occurs. Then attach the result as a text file.

[Proton]

I installed the 10k resistor and now I get no error. I saved the parameters right after issue happen.
I tried while the issue was happening but the web GUI always freezes while the issue is happening.
cmd-T.txt was started when acceleration started cutting out but did not displayed on the screen until GUI became available again; so it might be the same info ad cmdT2.txt

cmd-T.txt

(20.13 KiB) Downloaded 98 times

cmd-T2.txt

(20.14 KiB) Downloaded 107 times

[johu]

So to my dismay tmphsmax is still at 85°C. I told you to set it to 110 to disable the derating.

But maybe that isn't the problem. In cmd-T.txt din_forward=0 so no direction selected. In cmd-T2.txt it is 1, so forward selected. Could it be that your forward signal is unstable? This would explain why it works in reverse but not in forward. You can plot din_forward during standstill and see if it is stable. Also wiggle your cables a bit to provoke an intermittent connection

[Proton]

I tried tmphsmax previous time to 110 but I will set it again today. I will also swap the wires for forward and reverse. Do not think it is the problem but will see.
If you want to plot something else separately I can do few runs.

[johu]

Yes try that and if it doesn't help set dirmode=DefaultForward

Keep the other parameters as instructed until you succeed.

[Proton]

- FWD and RWD wires reversed
- iacmax 0 and tmphsmax 110
- tried dirmode=DefaultForward
- din_forward shows 1 until I lift my foot of the acceleration.

-still no error and same results.

cmd-T3.txt

(20.15 KiB) Downloaded 138 times

[alexbeatle]

I'd say I'm 90% happy with these parameters on a van, if you're interested for reference, where iacmax=800A. Tested at 45mph max. thus far.

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If it was me, given your drive's erratic behaviors and since you've already replaced the inverter, I'd look to check the LV wiring (maybe you could post the schematic here), check ensure the +12VDC and ground are clean when stationary and driving (could be noise or undersized wiring), give all wires (external to the drive and internal) a wiggle test, see if loose. Plot the tmpm vs speed to see if it's the inverter overheating causing issues. After that I'd look into replacing the IO control board (if you decide to do so, I can give you one at a discount).

[Proton]

I did not try yet the new inverter. I ordered another board from Johu, and also the current sensors. I want to replace as many parts as possible. Once I receive the board I will test the new inverter.
Did not want to use the same board either; just in case, but I think the board is good after repair.

[Proton]

Painful updates.
New board, new sensors, new inverter but the same motor = same behavior stopping and stuttering going forward.

The external esp 32 board works perfect. and it is fast.

Next step is to replace the original motor with the one that I just bought. this is very complicated since I already have the batteries on top.
I will have to uninstall the old motor and install the new one without the oil pump modification just to test.
if that works I have to take it down again and do the oil pump modification.
Draining the oil etc.

Not sure if it is possible to mess up something with the oil pump modification. the parts go back in only one way.
I remember there were 2 white wires that come from the motor all the way up to the inverter board. I am guessing these must be the temperature sensor wires? i think I stretched them a little bit when I opened first the motor.

1st board with the original Tesla sensors.

[johu]

So it could be something mechanical after all?