Unsure. They're different boards. But you can do a comparison once I get them to you.
I moved 6 months ago. And by "moved" I mean, I stuffed all of my tools and EV stuff into a small storage room, until my garage was "sorted". I have been there 6 months now, it's -30'C outside, there's more stuff than there is somewhere to put things, and I still haven't even started moving my actual garage stuff into the garage. The storage room requires some cave-diving to get to the things I was working on, as the things I wasn't working on got piled on top of that when I packed everything all in there. And it's in a different city than I live. I'll make an attempt tonight. No promises.
Step 7 says [...] Is the inverter 2-pole connector still I9 connector or these are two different connections. If they are different where is the 2-pole located.
Assumption: Yes they're the same. But, I'll try to do better than that since the whole point is to confirm things for sure.
Let's go through the edit history and see who wrote that section on that page and what it might have said before that. It was written by ... ... me? Sh#t.
"pole" isn't a descriptive term I'd use (I'd have said "pin"), so this section was copy-pasted from a different article or forum comment that I just threw there so it'd be in the same place. Johannes would be my guess.
Scrolling up: "Connect the 2-pole white power connector ("I9") inside inverter to 12V and Ground to power up inverter electronics." <-- That seems to confirm, it's the same as i9.
Scrolling down to Step 5: "and 12V and Ground to 2-pole Inverter connector (next to main 32 pin white connector)" <-- That seems to confirm i9 again, it's on the inverter next to i10 (the 32 pin connector).
This is actually a really good example of how something can be correct, but not useful. To someone who knows what it's talking about, it's correct and it appears well documented. But for the person who needs the documentation, it's still highly ambiguous.
This page hasn't really been fleshed out at all by anyone. I don't know if it's even linked to by Johannes' purchase page. I kinda just threw some initial seeding at it for others to fill out and it's been mostly untouched since. This versus:
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... 2_Inverter I've documented the hell out of.
Rather than verbally describing things, I took pictures. Rather than just pictures and descriptions, I labelled everything in the pictures themselves. If I defined a term, I used the same term thereafter.
Guess what you get to do once you're confident in your setup working? *points to ambiguous and missing documentation you're struggling with*
Step 8 [...] Can I use my cars 12v 55w light bulbs for the Delta connection config instead of the 21w lights bulb or there's a reason why the 21w light bulbs were chosen for this test due to power consumption?
Hmm, good question.
Because of Step 6: "Step 6 : Connect fused 12 volt and Ground to HV Inputs (battery),
along with 55 watt light bulb in series (resistor) on the Positive line"
That tells me that total "HV" power in this temp setup is going to be limited to 55 watts, because you only threw a 55 watt lightbulb in there.
So, across your phases, if you had more 12v 55w light bulbs wired in Delta, they'd each draw as much power as the maximum the "HV" line is going to let through. (You've got 165 watts hooked up to 55 watts max, even though not all will be on max power at the same time, it'll still be over 55w for sure). They'll get suffocated and maybe never get bright enough to notice, or, I'm not sure, maybe just behave unpredictably with the voltage plummeting and causing other issues.
It probably doesn't matter, especially since you have a scope and a meter that can check the actual results rather than relying on light bulbs, but, meh, if the cost of 3x 12v light bulbs is trivial to you, I'd just go buy some to remove the unknowns. It might only be something you use for 10 seconds before moving on.
Your suspicion that changing the setup might change the results seems founded.
Please help me understand what this means because I only know [boost 20000]
I am not familiar with much of the OI setup, nor this board.
That said, I've never seen the term "curki" anywhere before, ever.
On the page you linked, I also don't see where you're quoting from. Step 9 doesn't look like that to me on the wiki.
Regardless, I think it just means change Boost to 20000, the part you understood.
I'm not sure what parts you're not understanding, I'll try to break them down:
"Full Boost" - Change the value of the Boost parameter to be 20000.
"12v supply" - Just means that you connected your 12v to the inverter I think, they're telling you these instructions are for 12v.
"default forward" - One of the parameters is about which direction the motor should be spinning by default. I forget what it's called, and it doesn't matter, because this'll be the default and even if it's not, it'll still work.
"ampnom @ 70%" - "ampnom" is a parameter, (I think it's down in the "testing" section, near the bottom of the list I think) its units are %, so set the Ampnom parameter to "70". This is what percentage of your maximum current (as determined by some other parameter, the default of which is presumably fine), it'll try to let the motor phases use.
"fslipspnt @1 hz" - "fslipspnt" is a parameter, (I think right below ampnom?), its units are hz, so set fslipspnt to "1". This is how fast the motor is going to attempt to spin, 1 cycle per second. It depends on you correctly telling it the number of pole pairs in another parameter (for example, I had 3 pole pairs in my motor and until I told it that, "1 hz" was actually "0.33 hz" by observation). Precision doesn't matter, this is just "start spinning the minimum amount to see what happens", that's all we're telling it. Later you can change this to "2" and see if it spins twice as fast, rather than just some random power going to a motor.
"start inverter in manual mode" is a button in the interface up top. This is when it's going to engage all this stuff.
Also, note that I think you have to hit "enter" after you make changes to a parameter, else it'll look like it's changed, but not actually be changed. Another way to verify is to write the parameters to memory or, I forget what it's called up top. This means when you lose power or refresh you don't have to make all the changes again. You can verify that it saved them by refreshing the screen and seeing that it loaded them properly. Don't use "autorefresh", that will constantly undo any parameter changes you've done, it's like you hammering the "refresh" button every second.
The reason why I broke it down like this is to try and avoid simple mistakes. Some of the questions I'm asking I know for you guys may sound a little bit stupid or too simple for your experience, I understand and I'm sorry for that. But I wouldn't be asking them if I really knew what had to be done.
Naw, they're all great questions. In your case, I think your instincts were right on all of them, but this is what troubleshooting is. Ruling out all the things it's not, until we find the thing you interpreted wrong.
