[WIP] Voltswagen T2 -76

[johu]

That or maybe bus bar your way out. Towards the middle of the motor, then cables?

[Cera]

Yeah I'm currently thinking of a set of 90deg busbars towards the middle of the motor, enclosed safely in some 3D printed case, then 50mm2 cables to inverter. not too worried, I'm sure this can be made to fit somehow.

[Cera]

Getting back to this. Final mount sandblasted, powder coated. Motor has been mounted!





3D-printed some endcaps for the crossbar to keep dirt and dust out. With my own Ceravan logo, of course.



Sketching out mounting places for all the rest of the parts. I think inverter fits well somewhere on the shelf where the gas tank used to be, maybe HVJB next to it. Tesla M3 PCS fits perfectly behind the motor.



I should start looking into options with the charger etc. I have both the Tesla M3 PCS and the Leaf PDM. Currently leaning on using the M3 PCS with the M3 BMS and other components I got with the pack which as far as I understand saves me from Batman scavenging etc..?

Ah well. Need to study more.

Meanwhile did rest of the brake lines finally, too.



I had some ideas about using pressure switches with T-fittings to do original style brake light switch + brake warning light, but ended up just running the lines straight to the master cylinder at least for now. I don't fancy the idea of extra T-fittings in the lines, weight of the sensors and all the brake fluidy mess if they ever need replacing. Seems easier to install electronic switch somewhere in the linkage for brake lights.

As for the warning light in the dash, which I want just in case, I got a fluid reservoir with the level sensor which I deemed far smarter way of doing that than the pressure switches in the lines. I kind of want to know there's an issue with the brakes *before* the lines have no pressure. I think fluid level sensor in the remote reservoir makes most sense; if there's ever an leak somewhere, hose between the reservoirs gets detached, something horrible, then the reservoir level will go down and light up the warning light while there's still plenty brake fluid in the smaller reservoir on top of the master cylinder etc.

Also, some woodworking in between while waiting for parts.



Stain and oil



Mounted for test fit



Taking the measurements from the existing rotten door card was very annoying, but I'm really happy with the results.

A few steps onwards again.

[alexbeatle]

Well done!

…. I don't fancy the idea of extra T-fittings in the lines, weight of the sensors and all the brake fluidy mess if they ever need replacing. Seems easier to install electronic switch somewhere in the linkage for brake lights.

Good call. Lost my brakes already because of the inline sensor failure . Installed a mechanical switch on the pedal instead (end of the video).

[tom91]

The Tesla M3 PCS is NOT waterproof, so I would re think its location and house it in something.

[WillK]

I think you should be able to use one of the pins on the iBooster for brake lights.
Pin 24 is "brake sys monitor" which in my testing goes 0V-12V when pressure/movement applied to the push rod.

Loving this build. Would you be willing to share the 3d files of the motor mount?
I think I'll be doing Tesla M3 motor in my camper, but your detailed modelling of the engine mounts would be invaluable. Thanks

[Cera]

The Tesla M3 PCS is NOT waterproof, so I would re think its location and house it in something.

Thanks for the heads-up! I'll probably end up doing a sort of floor/thin weathershield panel covering the empty area around the motor to keep the motorbay a bit dryer in general. We'll see.

I think you should be able to use one of the pins on the iBooster for brake lights.
Pin 24 is "brake sys monitor" which in my testing goes 0V-12V when pressure/movement applied to the push rod.

Loving this build. Would you be willing to share the 3d files of the motor mount?
I think I'll be doing Tesla M3 motor in my camper, but your detailed modelling of the engine mounts would be invaluable. Thanks

Ahhh this is so perfect. Thanks a lot for the info! I had thought iBooster must have some output which would make the cleanest of solutions, but didn't find any info except people reverse engineering the canbus which I don't (yet) understand at all. I'll surely take another look at that.

Sure I'll PM you with the files!