Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread

[Boxster EV]

I can’t see any visual issues with the IGBT on that phase.

What do you mean by “manually closing the contactors”?

So UDC shows no voltage. Are you sure you have HV at the inverter?

Can you post a list of your parameters and what setting for udcmin? Also advise what firmware you’re running.

[EV_Builder]

Sounds like damaged igbts. Did you measure the fases?
About UDC being low, that might be a second issue.

[canadasconvert]

Thanks for the replies.
EV Builder - I will be measuring the phases tomorrow. If the IGBT's are damaged, can they be replaced? How difficult is this?
I am hoping the issue is just the Open Inverter board. I am concerned that the inverter is damaged and the whole motor/inverter will need replacement.
Boxster EV - When I say "manually closing the Contactors", I mean I have three 12V switches in the cab connected to the respective contactors (Main, Ign, Pre-Charge) that I manually switch on to close the individual contactors. This was the set up of the person I bought the motor and batteries from. It was set up this way to ensure contactors were closing in the right sequence.
I have full voltage coming out of the main 700A fuse going to the buss bars on the Inverter. Running firmware 4.85R. UDCMIN is 0. What other major parameters would affect this?

[EV_Builder]

I have no clue how difficult it is since that's quite a personal opinion. I think it's doable if you have patience and can obtain the parts. Saying that I think it's easier on the LDU to swap a broken phase. Maybe someone has some spares laying around. The LDU has a separate board if I recall correctly for the UDC measurement. That one might be toasted too.

[Boxster EV]

Thanks for the replies.
EV Builder - I will be measuring the phases tomorrow. If the IGBT's are damaged, can they be replaced? How difficult is this?
I am hoping the issue is just the Open Inverter board. I am concerned that the inverter is damaged and the whole motor/inverter will need replacement.
Boxster EV - When I say "manually closing the Contactors", I mean I have three 12V switches in the cab connected to the respective contactors (Main, Ign, Pre-Charge) that I manually switch on to close the individual contactors. This was the set up of the person I bought the motor and batteries from. It was set up this way to ensure contactors were closing in the right sequence.
I have full voltage coming out of the main 700A fuse going to the buss bars on the Inverter. Running firmware 4.85R. UDCMIN is 0. What other major parameters would affect this?

I’m not sure what to suggest with the feedback you’ve given.

1) I don’t know why you have three switches to control contactors. Perhaps a moot point for now, but regarding your contactor wiring, have you done this according to Damien’s wiring diagram (page 1 of this thread)?

2) That’s pretty old firmware. It’s worth upgrading to eliminate any issues there. Once you’ve done this, perhaps try loading a known good fresh parameter set.

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

The Open Inverter board can and should be used to control the contactors, that's how you prevent damage to the inverter from failing to precharge.

I don't know if anyone has successfully replaced just the IGBTs on a Tesla inverter, though I was hoping to try some time next year. Several people have replace the entire damaged power stage.

[Boxster EV]

I don't know if anyone has successfully replaced just the IGBTs on a Tesla inverter, though I was hoping to try some time next year. Several people have replace the entire damaged power stage.

They have. It’s a sticky in this forum.

Edit: viewtopic.php?t=1625

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

I don't know if anyone has successfully replaced just the IGBTs on a Tesla inverter, though I was hoping to try some time next year. Several people have replace the entire damaged power stage.

They have. It’s a sticky in this forum.

Edit: viewtopic.php?t=1625

Ohhh yeah I forgot about that.

[canadasconvert]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this. Looks like the problem was operator error. The 12V battery was only putting out 10V. This is why the pre-charge contactor didn't close and why the UDC was not displaying full battery pack voltage through wifi. I connected a fully charged battery and got the motor spinning again. I will continue to test the motor to ensure there are no other problems. A firmware upgrade will be coming soon and I will also look at adopting the Open Inverter starting sequence.

[Boxster EV]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this. Looks like the problem was operator error. The 12V battery was only putting out 10V. This is why the pre-charge contactor didn't close and why the UDC was not displaying full battery pack voltage through wifi. I connected a fully charged battery and got the motor spinning again. I will continue to test the motor to ensure there are no other problems. A firmware upgrade will be coming soon and I will also look at adopting the Open Inverter starting sequence.

Good news. Re the contactors, If you require the wiring diagram to have the Porsche OE ignition send power/signals to the DU then PM me.

[Skudak]

Good evening, I'm experiencing a persistent overcurrent issue I am hoping to get help with. I recently upgraded my firmware from 4.97 to 5.14. After doing this I realized I forgot to backup my parameters but had a screenshot from some point when it was running. I plugged in all my parameters (except I believe I had set throtramp to the default 100 which is concerning me in the back of my mind). I was able to drive the car fine up my street at 50% throttle. But then I got an overcurrent on the drive home. I restarted the car and it made it a 1/4 mile and got another overcurrent. this happened 1 more time before I got home. Now after letting the car sit for a couple days I instantly get an overcurrent when clicking on the throttle. I tried swapping occurlim to a positive per the wiki but still no go. Any input would be appreciated

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

Boost looks to be on the high end of what the LDU likes. Try bringing it down to 1400.

[Skudak]

Boost looks to be on the high end of what the LDU likes. Try bringing it down to 1400.

Just tried that, still overcurrent

[Boxster EV]

What does UDC say in spot values? Is it close to actual voltage?

Perhaps unrelated but your UDCMIN and UDCSW settings are the same.

[johu]

I noticed numimp=39 but should be 36. Not sure if that should lead to immediate overcurrent though but should certainly be corrected

[Skudak]

I noticed numimp=39 but should be 36. Not sure if that should lead to immediate overcurrent though but should certainly be corrected

Just changed it, it didn't fix the overcurrent but good to know

What does UDC say in spot values? Is it close to actual voltage?

Perhaps unrelated but your UDCMIN and UDCSW settings are the same.

It's right on, it was off a bit at first but I got the scale value so it's dead on nominal.

[Skudak]

Looks like my inverter is toast most likely. I put the board in a spare motor and hooked it up to the car with the same parameters and it worked. I'm going to swap the motors tomorrow and see if there's any visible damage

[Joxson]

Hi!
Tried to search here but didnt find anything, I may be stupid but rather one question to much than on to little.

Pin 11 Says "System Ground (Chassis)"
Pin 22 Says "System Ground"

Is there any difference to these? I feel like both should be to the chassi of the car? Or should Pin 22 go to Negative on then 12V system? (but thats the same as chassis..)

Thanks in advance, Im building myself a harness!

[rjmcdermott81]

Here is the wiring diagram that I have operational in my car. I did as you said, I grounded both 11 and 22 to the chassis. (Open for objections by others)

[rjmcdermott81]

I'm starting to have an issue now that I'm putting more test miles on the car.

Two quick questions:
1. How are the parameters that I hand key "saved"? Are the stored on flash that doesn't require power to retain them or, does the board need a constant need 12v even when the car is off to save the parameters?
2. Related to the question above, here is what is happening. I'm driving and then all of a sudden there is no throttle response. No error message and for some reason these parameters are reset:

• UDCGain – resets to 7.25 from 7.43

• Boost resets to 1720 from 1850

• Slipstart resets from 55 to 32

As always, thanks for y'alls help. I was having a good run after updating firmware and running Jon's parameters.

[jon volk]

You have to click save parameters to flash button to retain them.

[rjmcdermott81]

You have to click save parameters to flash button to retain them.

God. This is embarrassing. Thanks!

[canadasconvert]

I am still having problems with the Inverter/Motor. Since my last post, I have made a few short trips around the bloc and everything was running well until the last trip. I had stopped at a stop sign and was slowly accelerating when the car bucked a couple of times and then no power. I had it towed home and am investigating what happened. I still have 348V of power and the Ign, Pre and Main Contactors are all working. The DC/DC converter is charging the battery so I have 13V at all times. UDC reads 1.48V with and without HV power. I also get the following errors:
[1]: WARN - PWMSTUCK
[65]: DERATE - CURRENT LIMIT

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

I am still having problems with the Inverter/Motor. Since my last post, I have made a few short trips around the bloc and everything was running well until the last trip. I had stopped at a stop sign and was slowly accelerating when the car bucked a couple of times and then no power. I had it towed home and am investigating what happened. I still have 348V of power and the Ign, Pre and Main Contactors are all working. The DC/DC converter is charging the battery so I have 13V at all times. UDC reads 1.48V with and without HV power. I also get the following errors:
[1]: WARN - PWMSTUCK
[65]: DERATE - CURRENT LIMIT

Which version of the firmware are you on?

[canadasconvert]

It's old. 4.85.R-sine. I will be doing an upgrade this week if possible.