Please DO NOT contact Damien directly but rather post your issues to the forum so that we can help one another. Some excellent work is being undertaken on the forum/wiki and if we keep at it we'll soon have solid and supportable products that we can all use
Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 8:11 am
Now I have had several contacts over various platforms recently all asking that I add things like extra part boms, extra software etc to github to make life easier. Sadly I'm not going to do this as I'm just one person and the level of fatigue I am feeling recently is quite overwhelming if I'm honest. Sometimes feels like I'm that guy doomed to push a rock up a hill everyday just to watch it roll back down. What I will say is that if people want to see more detail on github then please get involved. Submit a pull request on there with boms etc and I'll hapilly merge them in. Or just upload on here and I'll pop it up on github. But this does mean YOU doing the work not me.
This is a personal post and I disclaim all responsibility for any loss or damage which any person may suffer from reliance on the information and material in this post or any opinion, conclusion or recommendation in the information and material.
Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 8:11 am
Submit a pull request on there with boms etc and I'll hapilly merge them in. Or just upload on here and I'll pop it up on github.
Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 8:11 am
Folks, apologies for the confusion I had not updated the partially built section on the webshop. That is now done. The only board available is the V1c.
Now I have had several contacts over various platforms recently all asking that I add things like extra part boms, extra software etc to github to make life easier. Sadly I'm not going to do this as I'm just one person and the level of fatigue I am feeling recently is quite overwhelming if I'm honest. Sometimes feels like I'm that guy doomed to push a rock up a hill everyday just to watch it roll back down. What I will say is that if people want to see more detail on github then please get involved. Submit a pull request on there with boms etc and I'll hapilly merge them in. Or just upload on here and I'll pop it up on github. But this does mean YOU doing the work not me.
Damian, take a break from this stuff. Even Jack Bauer only worked for 24 hours before he needed a break.
I've added photos of the steps taken to assemble my kit to the wiki. I'll continue to document.
Not knocking Damien's videos, I've followed along but I find it tedious trying to skip along and pause at the correct locations, so hopefully it'll be useful to others in addition.
BMW E91 2006
ZombieVerter
GS450h
Outlander Charger DC/DC
Outlander Compressor
Renault Kangoo 36kWh battery
FOCCCI CCS
I've added photos of the steps taken to assemble my kit to the wiki. I'll continue to document.
Not knocking Damien's videos, I've followed along but I find it tedious trying to skip along and pause at the correct locations, so hopefully it'll be useful to others in addition.
Question on resolver wiring. Forgive me this may be daft but I've searched the forum and the web in general and can't find an answer I'm confident in.
There are connections on the 35pin ampseal for Resolver SIN, COS and Exciter. But obviously each of these coils has two connections. Do the other sides (R2, S3, S4) all just go to ground?
bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 5:46 am
Question on resolver wiring. Forgive me this may be daft but I've searched the forum and the web in general and can't find an answer I'm confident in.
There are connections on the 35pin ampseal for Resolver SIN, COS and Exciter. But obviously each of these coils has two connections. Do the other sides (R2, S3, S4) all just go to ground?
Yes EX! goes to GND because it is the return of the exciter winding. SIN!/COS! go to a single voltage supply which supply their winding with 1.6V. Then whatever happens inside resolver true SIN/COS signals are routed to sensing pins where STM32 chip reads analog value of signals and determines position of rotor.
Great. Sorry for the follow-up question but what sort of current demands should I expect on that 1.6V supply? Assuming that's DC can I just run a little buck converter off one of the 5V outputs?
I̶ ̶u̶s̶e̶ ̶L̶i̶n̶u̶x̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶f̶f̶.̶ ̶ ̶W̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ ̶L̶i̶n̶u̶x̶ ̶i̶n̶s̶t̶r̶u̶c̶t̶i̶o̶n̶s̶ ̶h̶e̶l̶p̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶?̶ ̶ ̶O̶r̶ ̶a̶r̶e̶ ̶y̶o̶u̶ ̶s̶t̶r̶i̶c̶t̶l̶y̶ ̶a̶ ̶w̶i̶n̶d̶o̶w̶s̶ ̶u̶s̶e̶r̶?̶ ̶ ̶ EDIT: should have checked wiki before posting. *nix instructions are already up.
Above was assembled today with all the connectors needed salvaged from a dead OEM board. I'm getting quite good at quickly harvesting parts from dead boards with my toaster and tweezer methods. I have 4 spare sets of reclaimed connectors now if anyone on my side of the pond needs the bits and bobs to assembly their board, Send a PM. Also have all the connectors for wiring it up to your whips wire loom. Let me know if you need some stuff, I've got spares of almost all of it.
bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 5:55 am
I am in awe of your desoldering skills @Bigpie. I turn connectors to goo even with a hot air gun.
Don't use a hot air gun.
Use a junked toaster oven. Disable the top heat element. Place an 8mm-ish thick aluminum sheet in the oven that will allow the door to close. Install one of these: `https://www.ebay.com/itm/254470543520` to control the temp. Place your salvage PCB upon the aluminum plate. Start at 200ºc, and work your way up, 5º at a time. Keep an eye watching the solder for signs that it is melting. tip: most boards use lead-free solder, it melts at around 215-220°C Use long tweezers to remove the parts that you want.
Quick question on voltages: what sort of voltages should I be expecting on the pre-charge and main contactor outputs? Just been doing some testing and it wasn't switching the relay modules I'm using initially for testing. Stuck a multimeter on it and I'm only seeing ~2v when they switch on?
- I'm only reading 25.8V at the via next to the inductor, whereas the wiki says I should be reading 36V. Is this an indication of a problem? DC supply is a solid 12V.
- I'm getting a steady 77.2 degrees off tmphs whether or not the temperature sensor is connected to the board. What should snsms snshs be set to? Closest I can get to a realistic reading is about 10 degrees out with KTY83-110.
