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Hello,
Any experience with HVIL (High Voltage Interlock Loop) issues on model 3 battery pack?

I have a full tesla model 3 battery pack from a salvaged car. Besides replacing pyro fuse, no internal modifications.

I've used raspberry pi zero and evtv candue to send and read messages from battery.

We also own a model y and have used logs from it and from older model 3 logs found online to compare CAN messages from the battery. The below messages are unique to my battery vs other logs and the model y logs I captured.

I'm pretty sure my battery has an issue with the HVIL. The 2 CAN messages I'm getting below are what make be believe it's an HVIL issue:

0x20A HVP_contactorState C9 11 09 92 10 00
HVP_hvilStatus: UNKNOWN

0x232 BMS_contactorRequest 52 00 00 00 FF FF 00 00
BMS_internalHvilSenseV: 0V

I get no resistance and no voltage across the HVIL pins even when everything else is plugged in properly and I'm getting CAN messages out of the battery.

I've connected the HVIL pins on the battery connector with various resistors from 20ohms to 120 ohms.

When I log from the working Model y and disconnect the HVIL pins, I do not get CAN messages similar to the above messages.

Any advice on fixing this?

vdawger wrote: ↑Sat Dec 18, 2021 4:17 am Hello,
Any experience with HVIL (High Voltage Interlock Loop) issues on model 3 battery pack?

I have a full tesla model 3 battery pack from a salvaged car. Besides replacing pyro fuse, no internal modifications.

I've used raspberry pi zero and evtv candue to send and read messages from battery.

We also own a model y and have used logs from it and from older model 3 logs found online to compare CAN messages from the battery. The below messages are unique to my battery vs other logs and the model y logs I captured.

I'm pretty sure my battery has an issue with the HVIL. The 2 CAN messages I'm getting below are what make be believe it's an HVIL issue:

0x20A HVP_contactorState C9 11 09 92 10 00
HVP_hvilStatus: UNKNOWN

0x232 BMS_contactorRequest 52 00 00 00 FF FF 00 00
BMS_internalHvilSenseV: 0V

I get no resistance and no voltage across the HVIL pins even when everything else is plugged in properly and I'm getting CAN messages out of the battery.

I've connected the HVIL pins on the battery connector with various resistors from 20ohms to 120 ohms.

When I log from the working Model y and disconnect the HVIL pins, I do not get CAN messages similar to the above messages.

Any advice on fixing this?

Hello,
I am also working on the same issue. I am able to close HV contactor on old battery versions but having trouble with the new 2019 versions. I am using 120 ohms on the hvil, 12 volt on both bms and pin9. Also, must add the 0x221 msg to change the open_request to a closing_request. However in the 2019+ battery versions, it's not responding at all. Also the internal sense voltage is always 0v.

Any updates on your side?

The HVIL signal is a current loop from memory about 4mA in the MS.

I solved my issue. I think his issue is that the Pyro fuse is blown out. I suggest you open the penthouse and do a quick check. Msg 20A looks fine to me! Also HVIL sense will always be 0 as long as Main HV contactor is in open state.

Hi There

I am trying to make a home battery from a Tesla long range model 3 battery and a fox ess inverter, can you please tell me how you got the Tesla BMS to talk?

Hi everyone,
I was just trying to harvest a batman chip from the high voltage controller. But I'm having a hard time getting it off without damaging it.
Does anyone have some tips on what equipment to use and what temperatures?
I tried using the hot air soldering station but even when the solder started to melt it wouldn't come off. Does it have a pad underneath?

Thanks, Wim

You need quickchip to add another metal and lower the melting point of the new mix. In that way every molten piece gets lower and lower etc. And then you can get it off. Another option would be a hot oven perhaps?

Hello,
are there any estimates on when the "Tesla Model 3 BMS Controller" module will be available for sale at https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-w ... odel-3-bms?

Its on my to do list:)

I would think it is very likely the chip is glued down prior to soldering. So pre heating it to soften the glue would be an excellent plan. Also don't use a cheap hot air gun they just wont deliver the goods like a good professional one will.
Let us know if you manage to free Batman
Cheers
Stu

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Thu Sep 24, 2020 2:36 pm JLCPCB have this transformer in stock :
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/YDS-1 ... 115949.pdf
Any thoughts on compatability?

@Jack Bauer - How did you get on using that alt part for ISO SPI chip ?
(Did it work ok, or we best to keep to first one)


I'm just about start discovery on coms, Got a model 3 battery stripped now

And will look at harvest of batman chip next
(Well someone with better solder gear than me will be paid to do it)

Im in NZ and we lucky as we get LFP cells in our model 3's as they made in China
Photo of my modules

Getting this board made up at moment,
And batman chip placed on it, so can swap between porotype boards
Then hopping to look at reading data once I get some hardware

Hi all, this is my first post in this forum. I am converting a VW T3/Vanagon camper to Tesla Model S small drive unit and using Tesla Model 3 75 kW batteries.
My background is that I am a mechanic, not an electronis guy. I have been servicing and maintaining this van for a customer for about the last 20 years. Now we are taking the plunge into EV. The customers daily car is a Model 3
A bit more info on this project. The original plan was to use a dilithium BMS and Elcon 3.3kW charger and DCDC convertor. And we are using a T2C controller. All scourced from EVWest.
Then we decided that the 3.3kW charger would take forever to recharge the battery and so we scourced a Tesla Model 3 10kw PCS charger.
Bratitude assisted us with obtaining a EVBMW V3 PCS controller which I am in the process of installing and hope to turn it on and test it in the coming weeks. Again advice from Angus was to use the Tesla BMS and not the Dilithium BMS. And thus started the search for info on how to accomplish this and I came upon this forum and have spent a few days reading stuff here.
There seems to have been very little chat in this forum for a long time. Does this indicate that the EVBMW batman boards are now working successfully? They seem to be available in the EVBMW webshop.
So, a few questions on the EVBMW Batman board
1) Do I need one batman board per battery, thus I might need 4 batman boards?
2) Once I have harvested one of the batman chips of the Model 3 slave boards and installed it/them to the batmanboard/s, do I still need the Model 3 slave board/s?
3) Where can I find more details on how to install these batman boards other than the pinouts on github. As already mentioned, I am not an electronics guy, so the pinout info is not well understood by myself. More info would be helpful regarding connections from the batman board to the PCS and to the Tesla Model 3 batteries.
Thanks for your time if you have made it to the end of this novel
Russ

RhodieRuss wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2024 3:37 pm
1) Do I need one batman board per battery, thus I might need 4 batman boards?
2) Once I have harvested one of the batman chips of the Model 3 slave boards and installed it/them to the batmanboard/s, do I still need the Model 3 slave board/s?
3) Where can I find more details on how to install these batman boards other than the pinouts on github.
Russ

1. No, the Batman board acts as a master that talk to the stock oem Tesla boards.
2. As 1, the slave boards remain un modified, the externally built Batman board acts as a mastert to talk with the slaves.
3. the Pinots on GitHub are all that’s needed.


All that is needed for wiring is the isospi lines from the Tesla slaves to the Batman board. That’s it. 2 wires.

I suggest you hold off from any additional modifications(as none are needed)


I have Batman chips available which I have harvested from salvage Tesla boards


For the sake of the project and the tc2 controller, use the dilithum bms.

Hi there can someone please shed some light on this!!

My battery was working perfectly the contactors were closing the hv interlock loop was working perfect until I decided to put the battery on its side and now the interlock loop is open and the contactors will not close,
Externally the connections are the same but it is baffling me
Please help

Hi, I have the Batmanboard (aka M3/MS BMS Controller V1) and transplanted the Batman chip from one of the harvested slave boards on it. Build up my test scenario, so have a other Slave Board connected to 23 batterie cells to siulate a block, connected SPI (p/n). But I did not get readings (Web-Interface). I can see that the Slave Board sends data to the batman STM32 board, but the register are not filled, also after SPI p/n swap. Then I did a mistake, thought I just have to use the latest version from Github, uploaded the bin file and now the Batmanboard is not working anymore. asking for a new Firmware or filestructure file (Wifi only). On Github I could not find the default file to fash again the STM32 chip. Where could I find that file to get my batman STM32 board working again?

Thanks for any hint.

I don't quite understand which part you flashed. The ESP Wifi board? Because "asking for a new Firmware or filestructure file " means the file system of the ESP8266 was lost. In this case look here: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Olimex_MO ... bInterface

Wifi Module WEMOS D1 still connected to my infrastructure and when opening the 192.168.4.1 it asks for update Firmware or update Filesystem. Will try your lead, thanks a lot.