2022 Mitsubishi Outlander rear drive

[Alwyn]

Ladies and gentlemen!

Ive been a long time lurker on this forum and this is my first actual post.

Id like to share my recent acquisition, the rear differential from a 2022 Outlander (GN0W) .

As you can see its a total redesign from the GG2W type weve all seen. In particular, the motor, differential and inverter are all a single unit now.

In flows what I presume to be DC input (since its only two massive orange wires) and inverter control (the tiny four wires)

Removing the "UVW" labeled cover reveals the connection from the onboard inverter to the motor phases.

I have no idea what communication this motor will require and Id be happy to execute some tests if anyone would be so kind to help my on my way. I have a range of test equipment and various MCUs to load with whatever could be needed. Im not a total newbie to the electric car world, but this is my first foray into considerably bigger motors. Previous single seat car builds were done with motors from the Yamaha EC-03 electric bike (I believe JDM only).

Oh and as a closing comment, I live in Japan and would be happy to help anyone find stuff they want from the local market. Prices are ridiculously low here compared to what you guys pay outside of Japan. For example, the motor in question was only like 5000 Yen (~35 USD!!) and the big Outlander battery pack was approx 40,000 Yen (~250 USD).

[jrbe]

Happy first post!

You could make quite the business of exporting components if it's of interest to you. www.car-part.com has all your pricing references for the USA. I'm sure there are others for the rest of the world too.

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Mitsubish ... r_Inverter will get you wiring and known can bus control commands for the previous style to try.

The Greg (Gregski) has a good post about getting started with can if needed,
viewtopic.php?t=2385

What's the yellow car in the picture?

[steveknox]

Wow, that's quite a bargain.
Any chance you can provide some basic dimensions?

[snelly]

Hi that is a great motor with inverter built into it
I am using a old setup in my jeep.
would have made my setup much easier

I did work for two Japanese companies and enjoyed visiting/working in Japan over the many years.

[arber333]

Ladies and gentlemen!

Ive been a long time lurker on this forum and this is my first actual post.

Id like to share my recent acquisition, the rear differential from a 2022 Outlander (GN0W) .
.....

I have no idea what communication this motor will require and Id be happy to execute some tests if anyone would be so kind to help my on my way. I have a range of test equipment and various MCUs to load with whatever could be needed. Im not a total newbie to the electric car world, but this is my first foray into considerably bigger motors. Previous single seat car builds were done with motors from the Yamaha EC-03 electric bike (I believe JDM only).

I am pretty sure green/blue wire is CAN twisted pair. Rest is 12V supply and NOTAUS. GND is on the motor case.

If you have a DUE CAN board or a CAN reader i could send you simple instructions to observe what kind of
Traffic is on the line.
I could also send you my can shield you can connect with arduino due board for testing.

Interested?

[Jacobsmess]

What sort of continuous power do these out out?

[arber333]

What sort of continuous power do these out out?

It seems to be 100kW rear drive! Dont know if it is continuous...
https://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/conte ... 022-04.pdf

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

For example, the motor in question was only like 5000 Yen (~35 USD!!)

...

$35?

I wonder what shipping for a whole rear subframe would be.

I spent time looking into older Outlander rears here, but I think they were like $1500-2500 plus shipping. Which isn't awful, but, isn't great.

[Jacobsmess]

I've investigated shipping from Japan and all quotes for large items come back around £1000 unfortunately.... This was for a GS300H so around 90kg and 700mm x 40mm x 40mm, more if on a pallet.

[steveknox]

Thanks for checking. Would be an amazing opportunity to have access to affordable parts.

[Jacobsmess]

Thanks for checking. Would be an amazing opportunity to have access to affordable parts.

Just updated my previous message, it was for a GS300H so may be a bit more or less. I guess it could be viable if it were a group buy but otherwise I don't see it being economical unfortunately...

[Alwyn]

Thanks for checking. Would be an amazing opportunity to have access to affordable parts.

I just replied to Jacobs PM, but basically I suggested the trans-Siberian land bridge

https://rzdlog.com/for_clients/Trans-Si ... andBridge/

It looks like it may be a viable option for quick and cheap shipping from here (Japan).

Jacob was asking about an IS300H hybrid transmission. I can get one here with 65,000km on for about 20,000JPY, so yeah parts are CHEAP out here. Essentially it starts to become a question of "how big is your imagination", because the cost of critical components is really not much of a thing anymore.

[Alwyn]

I am pretty sure green/blue wire is CAN twisted pair. Rest is 12V supply and NOTAUS. GND is on the motor case.

If you have a DUE CAN board or a CAN reader i could send you simple instructions to observe what kind of
Traffic is on the line.
I could also send you my can shield you can connect with arduino due board for testing.

Interested?

I would be super interested to check that out!

with all the mcus I have I dont *yet* have a DUE, but it should be an easy remedy

-Alwyn

[arber333]

I would be super interested to check that out!

with all the mcus I have I dont *yet* have a DUE, but it should be an easy remedy

-Alwyn

Code was written way back but i modified it to essentially control either Leaf inverter or Outlander inverter, charger, heater combo. So if those parts use the same method of control it would be easy to adapt.
Downside is DUE is not that robust as say stm32, but for testing should be ok.

I PMed you...

[Alwyn]

Happy first post!

You could make quite the business of exporting components if it's of interest to you. www.car-part.com has all your pricing references for the USA. I'm sure there are others for the rest of the world too.

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Mitsubish ... r_Inverter will get you wiring and known can bus control commands for the previous style to try.

The Greg (Gregski) has a good post about getting started with can if needed,
viewtopic.php?t=2385

What's the yellow car in the picture?

Thank you for the link to Greg's CAN adventure! That was rather an entertaining read, and informative too!

Insofar the yellow car is concerned, its the second one of a pair I'm building/built. Heres some pics of the nicer one of the two:

The battery is a 13S2P pack buiult from the Outlander LEV40 cells:

Charging is done with a sort of parallel charger:

Some pics of the frame:

The body is carbon with a TVR inspired pain scheme. Those pics were taken when I delivered the car to its service location as part of a guided tour operation around the Kawaguchi lake at the foot of mt.Fuji. It was exactly a 100km drive from my house to the location and nearly 1000m climb in altitude. In the end the car did super well with a total energy consumption of 4.4kWh over the 100km! The very next day the car was already put into service. One of the punters:

-Alwyn

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Jacob was asking about an IS300H hybrid transmission. I can get one here with 65,000km on for about 20,000JPY

20,000JPY = $140 USD.

I'm in Canada, so, I'd expect shipping (by ship) to be less than to Europe. Definitely no railroad option for us.

I haven't been able to find conclusive evidence, I'm not even sure how to look properly, but from what I can tell North America never got the GS or IS 300H. We got the GS450H, with all of its associated hassles, but not the little brother.

In the end the car did super well with a total energy consumption of 4.4kWh over the 100km!

73Wh/mile ... UPHILL.

It's adorable. Love the paint job.

[Jacobsmess]

20,000JPY = $140 USD.

I'm in Canada, so, I'd expect shipping (by ship) to be less than to Europe. Definitely no railroad option for us.

I haven't been able to find conclusive evidence, I'm not even sure how to look properly, but from what I can tell North America never got the GS or IS 300H. We got the GS450H, with all of its associated hassles, but not the little brother.



73Wh/mile ... UPHILL.

It's adorable. Love the paint job.

The L210 was also used in the RC300H and Toyota Crown I believe.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

The L210 was also used in the RC300H and Toyota Crown I believe.

RC300H wasn't sold in US.

Toyota Crown took a 50-year hiatus from US, 1972-2022, but, apparently did start coming to North America in 2022, where the hybrid version is called the "Hybrid Max".

2022 is a lot too soon to be appearing in junkyards though. Anything that new is going to be gobbled up by rebuilders since the original car is new enough to be worth putting back on the street.

[JamesWLG]

Hi Alwyn,

I'm planning a project using i-Miev parts here in NZ, but that new unit looks really interesting. Have you weighed it? Actually the weight without the gearbox would be ideal to know?

[Alwyn]

Hey guys. Thank you for all the support and comments!
Ill be taking some measurements today and will post my picturesque findings a little later.

Hi Alwyn,

I'm planning a project using i-Miev parts here in NZ, but that new unit looks really interesting. Have you weighed it? Actually the weight without the gearbox would be ideal to know?

Hey James. Yes, Ill weigh the unit and include it here. Ill most likely do it with the assembly complete as removing the gearbox may soak up a considerable amount of time right now. I do however suspect that the gearbox is the same as the older GG2W units, so presumably youll be able to derive the motor's weight by subtracting the known weight of the gearbox. Anyways Im not trying to tell you how to eat your breakfast just free thinking as I type

-Alwyn

[Alwyn]

Hello chaps.

I wasnt able to weigh the assembly today as my cable hoist (with scale) is sitting at a friend's garage right now.

Heres some pics of the principal dimensions:

Left to right of the enclosed space (sans (without) mounts) measures 470mm

Front to back measured 340mm. Including the diff housing edge we come to 420mm

From the flat top to the bottom end of the diff housing the measurement comes to 350mm again

All the holes in the mounting dampeners (bushing?) are oblong. The distance from the left mount's extreme inner edge to the right mount's extreme inner edge comes to 570mm.

Curiously, the bolts that hold the gearbox to the motor are all 16mm bolts or alternatively known as 5/8". The rest of the hardware is all metric.

Ill continue to add more and more info here as I discover them.

-Alwyn

[arber333]

Hello chaps.

.....

Curiously, the bolts that hold the gearbox to the motor are all 16mm bolts or alternatively known as 5/8". The rest of the hardware is all metric.
....

Thank you.
No wonders here. I see this with Mazda all the time. They use some wierd bolt heads (14mm spanner where 15 is usual etc...) for "normal" metric bolts all the time. This keeps me at my toes with tools .

[Doig5710]

Don't get started on "normal" bolt sizes, Japanese cars always use 10,12,14,17,19mm bolts, normal euros run 10, 13, 16, 18mm and then you have the American sizing which is usually in-between metric and imperial because they can't make up there minds.
Now it's not any easier as they go between 6 point, 12 point hex, torx, 6 point capscrews and 12 point splines as well.
Sorry to sidetrack but it annoys the crap outta me the amount some manufacturers swap between bolt sizes and types at times lol

[Alwyn]

More pics of the motor teardown!

TLDR: Its pretty awesome. 47kg motor+inverter combo. 17kg for the gearbox+diff

Here we go!

First, every number I could find on the device (for those interested).

How nice to indicate required polarity:

The inverter inside. Truly an amazingly small package considering the power output:

^Resolver sits behind this pcb.^

Cracked open.

^Output shaft is 20mm and 18 splines^

Theres this curious brush thats not connected to anything (with a wire). I think its there to ground the gears directly instead of through the bearings. Here we find evidence to support the incredibly low mileage of this specific unit, the brush is not even worn away to full-contact.

^Tiny gap between the outer edge of the grounding brush and shaft^

Please ask some questions if theres anything youd like me to check.
-Alwyn

[jrbe]

That looks to be a really well thought out & simple design. I love seeing engineering like this.