Mitsubishi Outlander 3D-Printed Cable Glands

[crasbe]

Hello everyone,

in the last weeks I created cable glands for the Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Inverter and Charger, because mine didn't come with any...
You can find all the 3D models with additional explanations on Printables, I created a collection with all the models: Link to the Collection


Inverter DC Input Gland: Printables Link
This gland can be used for the DC input glands on the bottom of the inverter.
The DC input gland has an M16x1.5 or M20x1.5 thread, for which you can use the standard cable glands.

Motor and Inverter Phase Cable Glands: Printables Link
This gland uses three M25x1.5 glands for the thicc phase cables which run to the motor.

Since the space for this plug on the motor is limited, there is an M20 version as well which has a shallower profile:

Inverter Signal Gland: Printables Link
This gland is available in M16 and M20 to replace the signal connectors, where no connector is available anymore.
Furthermore I created a version for the flanged Waipu SP21 connector.

Inverter/Charger Auxiliary Cable Gland: Printables Link
This gland can be universally used for the connection between the inverter and charger, inverter and AC compressor. It has an M16 thread because the high voltage cables used have a very small diameter.
The auxiliary gland is ready as well, but I still wait for the correct O-rings to be delivered... I didn't have much luck with O-ring deliveries: Two times I ordered the completely wrong sizes, then I ordered sizes without stretch, one shipment got lost in shipping (or wasn't shipped at all) and two shipments had the wrong sizes in the correctly labled bag.

(The picture shows has the M20 version, which didn't work.)


Charger Signal Cable Gland: Printables Link
This gland uses an M16 or M20 thread as well and can be used for the signal gland (which is usually not missing because it has a plug on a little pigtail).

Charger Power Cable Gland: Printables Link
This gland uses an M20 thread and is used for the 230V input to the charger.

If you have a Printables account, please like the model and share a Make. This gives me so called "Prusameters" which I can redeem for Prusament Filament.
Creating the glands took somewhere between a half to a full 800g spool of filament (I use the 2.6kg spools, so I don't know for sure) and about 100€ for O-rings and the special taps. This way you can contribute without having to spend anything

Hopefully this is useful to some of you

Best Regards,
Chris

[evMacGyver]

Thank you for sharing!

Signal/resolver original O-ring is about ID 26,5mm and 3,5mm thick. For aux port I used ID 30x3.5mm which was fine. For DC input I think original was too thin, so I used what I got 18.5x3.5mm which was bit too thick and used some soap as lubricant to get it to work

[Bratitude]

nice, added to the https://openinverter.org/wiki/Mechanica ... n_database

[crasbe]

Update: Added the Motor phase gland, which has a shallower profile and uses M20 glands to clear the motor casting.

[crasbe]

Update: Added another version of the Signal Gland for the Inverter with a Waipu SP21 flanged connector.

[arber333]

Update: Added the Motor phase gland, which has a shallower profile and uses M20 glands to clear the motor casting.

Could you do a design on motor cable gland with holes for 35mm2 rubber cable with 2x inner slots for corresponding O rings? That way cables will be doubly insulated against moisture but the complete gland will be much lower profile. If you design it i can offer to test it as long as i have my inverter uninstalled...

[crasbe]

Could you do a design on motor cable gland with holes for 35mm2 rubber cable with 2x inner slots for corresponding O rings? That way cables will be doubly insulated against moisture but the complete gland will be much lower profile. If you design it i can offer to test it as long as i have my inverter uninstalled...

Sure, but every cable has a different diameter. So it would be a custom solution for every cable.
Instead of the O-Rings I would propose to just make the hole sliiiightly undersized and glue the cable in with RTV silicone.

[jrbe]

Sure, but every cable has a different diameter. So it would be a custom solution for every cable.
Instead of the O-Rings I would propose to just make the hole sliiiightly undersized and glue the cable in with RTV silicone.

You could add barbs or grooves in the inside for the silicone to have something to bite. The outside could have similar for some adhesive lined shrink tube. Could help hold it while the silicone sets and further waterproof and strain relief.

And if you're 3D printing it you could add a silicone injection port.