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Well, your friendly neighborhood moron (that would be me) finally got a new ISO7741 isolator, and in the process of installing it accidentally melted other components. Does anyone have the part number for C24 and C272 (the two blue parts melted in the image below)?

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Sat Oct 01, 2022 10:44 pm Well, your friendly neighborhood moron (that would be me) finally got a new ISO7741 isolator, and in the process of installing it accidentally melted other components. Does anyone have the part number for C24 and C272 (the two blue parts melted in the image below)?

20221001_203451733_iOS.jpg

Bumping this up; anyone have these part #s or have/could take a photo of the components?

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Fri Oct 07, 2022 12:13 pm Bumping this up; anyone have these part #s or have/could take a photo of the components?

Did you get sorted in the end? I've not opened my PCS so don't have photos, hadn't planned to open it up in case it causes issues

nkiernan wrote: ↑Sat Oct 15, 2022 5:58 pm Did you get sorted in the end? I've not opened my PCS so don't have photos, hadn't planned to open it up in case it causes issues

Unfortunately no, I'm still hoping someone that has theirs open or is willing to open it can share the part numbers.

I've gone through my pre-mistake photos and others' photos and videos and cannot find a clear image.

I'll take some pics today of mine as I have a few jobs in the barn (cough I mean workshop)

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Oct 16, 2022 9:47 am I'll take some pics today of mine as I have a few jobs in the barn (cough I mean workshop)

Let me know if this doesn't suit you and I'll just get the cover off mine

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Oct 16, 2022 9:47 am I'll take some pics today of mine as I have a few jobs in the barn (cough I mean workshop)

Much appreciated!

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Oct 16, 2022 9:47 am I'll take some pics today of mine as I have a few jobs in the barn (cough I mean workshop)

Not to be a pest, but any chance you were able to take the photos and/or grab the part numbers?

Hope these help. Sorry. Got distracted by a leaking kitchen roof!

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Fri Oct 21, 2022 12:34 pm Hope these help. Sorry. Got distracted by a leaking kitchen roof!

Thank you! Hope the leak was easy to find and the damage minimal.

I read the numbers as follows, anyone care to take a look at the photos and confirm what I'm seeing?
Z118436990 A
K0-4n7M 300V ~

Z118358257 A
K0-1nM 300V ~

Looks right to me, not sure the Z or A would mean anything but their definitely in the picture

Ok so I'm working on decoding these. They're definitely capacitors, and I've figured out the following (for the first one):
300V ~ is clear = 300V AC
4n7M appears to = 4.7nF with a tolerance of +/- 20% (the M)

Anyone know what the K0 indicates?

They are just X caps for providing some emi filtering. Just make sure the replacement has the same value and at least the same voltage rating and you are good to go.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Oct 23, 2022 9:03 am They are just X caps for providing some emi filtering. Just make sure the replacement has the same value and at least the same voltage rating and you are good to go.

Much appreciated!

Alright I've got new weird issues. I finally finished replacing the isolation chip and the caps that I melted, and went to test again. Exact same test set up, car hasn't moved at all (other issues), but now the controller is not sending any CAN messages or sending enable to the PCS (no lights on the PCS).

The controller web interface appears fine, lights on the controller come on, but no can messages. Car voltage is ok (12.19V) and I can't think of anything that could have changed. I tested with and without the PCS connected, no difference.

I think I'm losing my mind. How does the controller somehow stop working when its just been sitting, completely unpowered?

What is the web interface telling you?

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Nov 13, 2022 6:07 pm What is the web interface telling you?

Continuing my screw ups, I think I was partially wrong last time.

Without the PCS connected, the web interface comes up, everything looks normal but off. On the control board, the activity light flashes, and the 3v3 light and wifi module light are on and solid.

When I plug in the PCS control connection, the web interface will not come up. On the control board, the only light is the 3v3 light flashing.

Because the PCS support thread has been closed, I'm creating a new one to continue troubleshooting my PCS issue.

So Far:
- On the old PCS controller firmware, the PCS was waking up, but not sending any CAN messages back to the controller. It appeared the controller was sending messages and putting the correct inputs high.
- Diagnosis was likely a bad isolation chip.
- I replaced the isolation chip, and in the process melted some capacitors used for filtering.
- I replaced the capacitors.
- I attempted to test again. The PCS is not powering up, with both the old and newer PCS firmware. When the PCS is not connected, the controller turns on properly, the web interface comes up, the lights on the board appear correct (3v3 constant, activity flashing). When the PCS is connected, the controller does not turn on properly, the 3v3 light flashes, activity is not illuminated, and the web interface does not come up.[/list]

My un-educated hypothesis, is that the isolation chip is either not soldered properly or I put it on the board 180 degrees out from the correct orientation. Does this sound correct? Is there something else that the 3v3 light flashing could mean?

Lets see if the EE basics page I just set up partly answers your question: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Electronics_Basics

johu wrote: ↑Mon Nov 21, 2022 12:51 pm Lets see if the EE basics page I just set up partly answers your question: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Electronics_Basics

To the extent that it points to the PCS being the problem, sure. To the extent it actually answers why the PCS, which didn't cause this issue before (it just didn't respond), is now causing this issue, no not really.

IDK, sounds to me like the PCS is broken.

Do you want somebody to tell you how to fix it? Tall order. If your electronics background is at the level where you aren't sure if you mis-oriented an IC when replacing it, I'm guessing you may not be able to go further with troubleshooting the PCS yourself, unless it's a very common problem that others have also experienced.

I haven't read that others have been working with the PCS' board at the component level, so I'd guess that nobody has the relevant info on tap, to guide you further.

asavage wrote: ↑Mon Nov 21, 2022 5:46 pm IDK, sounds to me like the PCS is broken.

Do you want somebody to tell you how to fix it? Tall order. If your electronics background is at the level where you aren't sure if you mis-oriented an IC when replacing it, I'm guessing you may not be able to go further with troubleshooting the PCS yourself, unless it's a very common problem that others have also experienced.

I haven't read that others have been working with the PCS' board at the component level, so I'd guess that nobody has the relevant info on tap, to guide you further.

Frankly in the other thread there was productive discussion helping with this, because Damien had seen similar issues.

I think the IC is oriented correctly, but unfortunately the original one was not marked and was damaged (hence the need to replace) and the format of pins on that chip were such that just I think I got the right orientation by measuring connectivity but I can't be sure.

At this point its frankly a simple question: If the 3v3 is flashing (not out completely, flashing) and no other lights are illuminating, what error is that supposed to indicate?

I've moved the related posts from the support thread here.

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Mon Nov 21, 2022 5:53 pm At this point its frankly a simple question: If the 3v3 is flashing (not out completely, flashing) and no other lights are illuminating, what error is that supposed to indicate?

That the PCS is overloading either the 12V or 5V rail which it receives from the logic board. Most likely the 5V one as 12V is not going through a regulator

OK thanks.

Hoping to check it out later today, could be some loose joints or stray solder, but I think I may know the issue, and it's dumb. I cleaned out the through holes for the capacitors with a tiny drill bit (my soldering iron and desoldering tool were having a hard time), and it may have walked more than I thought. Completely stupid on my part, this is why you don't work on EVs while overly tired.

Good news is I saw another PCS for an absolute steal, and it should be here by next weekend. That should let me confirm if its the PCS or something else going wrong.

Has anyone tested Damien's PCS controller with a model-Y PCS? I have a model-Y PCS and would like to know whether or not this controller can work with it before I make an order.