Pete9008 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 15, 2023 10:53 amAre you using the same power supply as before when you had it running?
Honestly, I don't remember.
Either it's the same SMPS, or, I was using a 12v from a gator clips into 3s of a 5s Dewalt battery 5 months ago.
I'd suggest that you go over everything twice to make sure you can't see anything wrong and if not try powering it from a 12V battery with an inline fuse, say 2A-5A?.
Pfft, fuse smooze. That's what wires are for. Normally I'd have used a 12v headlight bulb in series but I didn't have one in the room.
I should have mentioned, I tried both. The SMPS was yanked down from 12v to 6v. The Dewalt battery was pulled down to 3.5v from 12.05v.
I don't know in what world a fully charged Dewalt is capable of less power than the 5A SMPS, that Dewalt should be good for like, 30+A, but its voltage sagged more than the power brick did.
It was 3am, but I went over everything:
- Triple-checked documents on the i9 connector, that Black/White was GND and Blue was 12+. And that that's where I was plugging them in.
- Visually inspected that Black/White went to a black wire and the Blue went to a red wire on the inverter side, even though the plug only fits one way, even though I never unplugged the i9 plug.
- Made sure I had the correct blue wire, not the skinny one that goes to the case switch.
- Checked the voltage right at the power rail, just in case it was a gator wire that was frayed and causing the voltage drop. No change.
- Nothing other than system power got unplugged when I moved it to the storage room, the control board stayed as-is since the day it last worked, didn't disconnect any of the signal wires.
- Checked all other unused random wires from the inverter wiring harness in case they were touching each other.
- Checked that the Start wire was disconnected, so that the controller wasn't immediately trying to tell the inverter to do something.
- Lifted up the control board and looked underneath it in case there were bits of wire or a screw from when I built the shelving that rolled under there. Nope.
- Unplugged the two motorbike throttles from the controller. Even though they have been plugged in and unchanged for a year. Wasn't at the point where I was using them yet anyways.
- Unplugged the HVDC Prius cables (which were never yet connected to power), just in case they ... I dunno, just in case.
- Unplugged the Prius motor phase wires, just in case... was running out of ideas of things to disconnect. They were connected to the motor most of this time, but they were something new I'd done so out they went.
- Unplugged the power to the i9 Black/white and Blue wires (system power to the inverter), and that's what made the voltage snap back to reality and the controller LEDs actually light up.
...
So from that I conclude the control board is probably okay, probably not fried, since it was only getting suffocated from the power sag of the inverter (though, there's 6 other wires that connect to the inverter, not out of the woods yet). But I didn't actually test it or the wifi because I was burnt out and didn't trust my thinking anymore.
I guess I could test resistance across the i9 connector and see if the inverter power rail is straight up shorted somehow, I'll do that next.
Not even really sure what to test next. Why would the inverter's system power be pulling 4+ (10+?) amps?
I do have an entire spare inverter, but, just in case the control board fried the first one, I'd rather not swap it unless/until I figure out what's causing the power draw.