Long time no see, everyone! I’ve been a bit tied up these past couple of days. Now, let’s take a closer look at the details of this V2L—it’s been working perfectly, and I’m thrilled about it. It’s like a real treasure to me, letting me get power whenever I need it.
Main Interface: During normal operation, the car icon on the left displays the in-vehicle battery level and the voltage of the traction battery, while the right frame shows the V2L's output voltage, power, current, and frequency—this frame presumably represents the V2L device itself.Customer service mentioned there's a small 12V battery inside, and its charge level is indicated at the top right corner of the screen. It automatically recharges during regular use, so you don't have to worry about the device dying. The only exception is if it's left unused for six months to a year, in which case the small battery might drain. When that happens, you'll need to recharge it via the Type-C port on the back.
Secondary Interface: There are three selectable options here:
The first lets you set a minimum cutoff level for the vehicle's battery. I assume this prevents over-discharging that could leave the car completely dead—and that's definitely a necessary feature.
The second allows switching between 120V and 240V output voltages. This is an amazing function that really expands its use cases; I was pleasantly surprised when I found out about it.
The third one seems useless—it doesn't do anything when I press it.
Socket: It comes with one 5-15 and one 5-20 socket, which I think is more than enough for my needs. Though it would be perfect if they added a 14-50 socket for 240V use.
Customer service also mentioned they're about to release a V2H device, which can draw power from the car and output both 120V and 240V simultaneously. I'm quite interested in this and asked them for a picture.
Connector: The V2L connects to the cable via a detachable aviation plug, which helps with storage—but isn't ideal for someone like me who's always losing things. I heard their NACS connector is compatible with CCS1 and CCS2, meaning you can use different cables by swapping them out.
I’ll be sharing how it works next, and I also plan to use an oscilloscope to check out the output voltage and current waveforms. I’ve got an old compressor and motor at home too, and I want to see how they perform with it.
