[WIP] Renault Megane III EV Tech conversion

[arber333]

I decided to buy a previous made conversion and remodel it a bit to my specifications.
This is the car that i bought…. Renault Megane III 1.6 16V Grandtour already converted to LV about 60V

I will bring this conversion up to standard with Mazda MX3 i converted recently to Outlander components and my own VCU controller.

This is the blog for re-conversion;
https://evmeganetech.wordpress.com

Edit: I had to change the website a bit....

[arber333]

Front battery box mount

I will use multiple battery boxes. Each box will consist of 24S connected CALB cells. There will be 24S ZEVA BMS module in each. Also i will build in 10mm copper tube with alu plate to transfer heat/cold. This will be my thermal management for each box.

To mount the front battery box i will use the 30mm x 30mm angle on each side to keep the box lifted to correct height to let me to close the hood.

Under the box i prepared two C crossmembers with 3mm inox mounts.
I bolted height adjusting inox plates on the sides of C members. On the front its 30mm in height and on the back its 120mm so battery box is canted towards the front a bit (20°).

Battery box will be fitted by M6 bolts from the front and the back. I fit the M6 nuts on inox plate from the rear so i can effectively assemble/dissasemble the battery box.

First i fitted the battery box on to the metal bands. From the rear i marked the hols for drilling.
For the second mount i had to go under the bonnet to mark the holes

I decided to tack weld nuts behind inox plates to make assembly and dissassembly easier. From the front i will simply fit the bolts through the holes and tighten them.

[arber333]

Driveshafts

To use Outlander motor and gearbox I needed to splice Renault Megane outer driveshaft parts to each of the Outlander inner tripod parts.
This was made on a lathe since this is the best way to balance the end product, however it was also the diameter difference between the slimer Outlander shafts and thicker Megane outer end.

We first thinned out Megane shafts to fit along the limits of Outlander diameter. Then we tack welded both pieces and prepared surface for C45 steel sleeve to fit over both shaft ends. This sleeve was cut in the middle to provide more welding area and provide homogenous effect to the splicing… as theory states if material is welded in 90°phase consecutively it will act as homogenous material.

Drivashaft ends were greased and fitted with new rubber boots.
I needed to get new snap rings to secure the tripod side of halfh shaft. I lost one when taking the thing apart and it seems normal to order a pair.

A company that works with driveshafts got me a pair of snap rings so i could assemble driveshafts to fit them to gearbox.
I see snap rings can be ordered from Aliexpress as well. You just have to order 20!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006 ... 18029RcnBf
Also i ordered new Oil and oil seal as it is very normal to damage the seals when inserting the shafts.

Gearbox oil i use is ATF SP III Mannol MN8209-1
Gearbox shaft oil seal P/N is 3515A056 (21293)
Gearbox fill plug oil gasket is P/N MF660036 (21286S)

I fitted the halfh shafts into one side and then the other. I removed the bolts from under each wheel knucle to remove the wheel to the side to fit driveshaft splines. On the other side i needed to use some sticky grease to stick the snap ring so i could fit the splines into gerarbox simply by moving the shaft longitudinally and shock of tripod hitting its stop would lock the snap rings across threshold. You need to be very carefull not to damage oil lip seals. This is why i ordered spares.

Driveshafts gave me a scare… when i assembled them i tested the length at tripod open and closed and it checked out. But when i inserted the driveshafts i mistakenly torqued the main wheel nuts. This fixed the outer part of the shafts. When i tested for shaft movement i got none!!! Did i made shafts too long???!!! After some time to calm down i thought to untorque the main nut and voila… shafts were able to move out and in with room to spare…DUH!
Of course they were good, i triple measured before cutting.

[johu]

Nice work!
Any road worthiness tests required? Since it's already EV and you just change small details

[arber333]

Nice work!
Any road worthiness tests required? Since it's already EV and you just change small details

Might be because I replaced the engine, there is no transmission anymore and voltage is changed a bit... no biggie .

If I can't do it here I will go to some other EU country...

[arber333]

To successfuly start the car and for every aux item in the car to work,, RPM signal is needed. In the case of 1.6 16V ICE engine this signal is picked up at the transmission flywheel. On the flywheel is toothed belt with 60 teeth pattern. This pattern is broken by two teeth missing at the RPM count starting point. This helps determine the 0 position of the flywheel and the engine Top dead Center.
This particular configuration is called 60-2-2. 60 imaginary pulses with 56 actual pulses and 2 periods of gap and 2 periods of long pulse.

How this works you can see here: https://www.tekniwiki.com/overview/how- ... t-sensors/

For our use we only need about 800RPM to incite ECU that engine is running. This will be done in code and transmitted on the same lines via PWM signal from VCU.

The code has been prepared so that:

Teensy 4.1 Arduino code to simulate a 60-2-2 crank wheel pattern using the Metro library.

57 evenly spaced pulses (1-tooth duration),

1 gap (1-tooth duration),

1 longer pulse (2-teeth duration),

1 gap (2-teeth duration),

Then repeat.

#include <Arduino.h>
#include <Metro.h> // Metro timer library
#include <FlexCAN_T4.h> // Teensy CAN library

const int tachoPin = 5; // Output pin for crank signal
const int teethCount = 60; // Total number of teeth (including missing ones)
const float rpm = 800.0; // Target engine RPM

const float revPerSec = rpm / 60.0;
const float revPeriodMs = 1000.0 / revPerSec; // 1 revolution duration in ms
const float toothPeriodMs = revPeriodMs / teethCount; // Time per tooth in ms

volatile int currentTooth = 0;
Metro tachoMetro(toothPeriodMs);

void setup() {
pinMode(tachoPin, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(tachoPin, LOW);

Serial.begin(115200);

Can0.begin();
Can0.setBaudRate(500000);
Can0.setMaxMB(16);
Can0.enableMBInterrupts();
Can0.mailboxStatus();
}

void loop() {
Can0.events(); // Handle CAN events
tacho(); // Simulate crank pulse pattern
}

void tacho() {
if (tachoMetro.check()) {
// Standard 57 pulses
if (currentTooth < 57) {
digitalWrite(tachoPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(100); // 100 µs pulse
digitalWrite(tachoPin, LOW);
}
// Tooth 57: 1-tooth gap — no pulse
else if (currentTooth == 57) {
// No pulse: simulate 1-tooth gap
}
// Tooth 58: single long pulse (2-tooth duration)
else if (currentTooth == 58) {
digitalWrite(tachoPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(200); // Double pulse duration to simulate 2 teeth
digitalWrite(tachoPin, LOW);
}
// Tooth 59: 2-tooth gap — no pulse
else if (currentTooth == 59) {
// No pulse: simulate 2-tooth gap
}

currentTooth++;
if (currentTooth >= teethCount) {
currentTooth = 0; // R


I get a good 57 pulses per one "rotation" with a missing gap where the cycle repeats. Now i use a simple transistor module with 2.7kohm pullup so it will amplify signal to 12V.
Since the inductive sensor reads signal passing below 0V I needed to add one 1uf film cap in series which inverts the returning signal so what will be seen by the car will not be square wave, but rather pointed signal that goes down through the 0V...

4.png (79.02 KiB) Viewed 5846 times

This will give the ECU the appearance of a 60-2-2 wheel, synchronized to 800 RPM.

Connection to the former RPM connector... Since the sensor is induction type receiver needs to see a signal passing through zero to count it. My 50% PWM signal will not move the needle directly.

I solved the problem to cross the 0V line to trigger the count. I simply added one 1uF film cap in series with signal (!).

image.png (24.52 KiB) Viewed 4744 times

First i tried to connect RPM signal to one wire of the connector and the second one to GND. It moved the needle a little, but not enough. Then i simply removed one side of connector and car came to life.

[arber333]

I am about to drive this Megane and i still have those pesky "Engine warning" messages together with "Battery charging" message.
I fiddled with some connectors inside the protection - relay module under the bonnet and i see if i disconnect CAN connector the car actually reacts to CAN connector removal.

Does anyone have or know about where to get some CAN logs for communication from ECU to Dash control unit?

Tnx

Edit: I see now that engine warning is because of missing accelerator pedal and throttle body signal...possibly also because of missing coolant temperature sensor etc... really no wonder that ECU misses his friend the engine and is throwing a fit .
Additionaly this means AC compressor signal does not get through as it has at least 3 interlocks on the ECU.

My idea is to first try to simulate CAN bus msg train from another Megane with good engine to convince my dash everything is well so it can put AC clutch signal through.

Later on if that does not work i will be forced to search for signal wires and use analog signals to simulate OK state with engine in idle...

[arber333]

For now i went the analog way...
I get a DTC about wrong throttle pedal... of course

I made a simple resistor divider to simulate throttle pedal sensor.
ECU provides 5 V; signal rises from ~0.5 V (closed) to ~4.5 V (wide open).
Dual redundant signal for safety (one rising, one falling curve).
TPS1 Voltage ~0.55 – 0.65 V
TPS2 Voltage ~4.35 – 4.45 V
Voltage Difference ~3.8 – 4.0 V

And true enough ECU accepted this signal and there was only ESP warning and annoying alternator warning light after a while.

This made me brave enough so i could close up the panels and covers on the car. It now drives with small VW Golf GTE hybrid battery in the back. I need to make and install battery boxes...

Also i tested 2 phase charging to make sure it works good.

I still have battery to install above the second charger and under the boot behind the rear seats.
Also BMS wiring and its function i have to make.

[arber333]

BAH! I cant get Megane to accept alternator signal.
As far as i know request is a 1200Hz PWM at 75% duty therefore i tried to provide it with return signal on the same wire.
1. I put straight 14V on the orange wire... i immediately get "error charging system" message. This means system reacts to change on that line.
2. I gave the line a simple 1200Hz 75% duty using one mosfet transistor. When i scope the line i see a good square function at 75%...
Nothing is different, after a longer diagnostic pause i still get "error charging system" message. I am now at the end of my rope.
I will try maybe to virginize the ECM, there is a procedure online, in order to circumvent alternator test.

[arber333]

I just lost my patience!!!
1. I cant get Megane ECM to accept alternator ON signal
2. Consequentialy i cant get Megane ECM to turn on AC clutch signal, i need that for normal AC compressor operation
3. I still get error message "service battery charging system" on dash within red rectangle...

Ergo i decided to go around ECM computer for that one... i just need to science the shit out for it to be safe...
I read about AC system operation
Basic Enabling Conditions (Normal Operation)
A/C request from the climate control system: Driver/operator must request A/C via the control panel. My signal input
Condition Engine running: Engine must be running (ECU detects crankshaft rotation via RPM sensor). I will use Enable signal
Sufficient engine RPM: Typically, the compressor won’t engage below ~600–700 RPM to avoid stalling. Dont need this one
Refrigerant pressure within acceptable limits: Pressure sensor (on the A/C line) must report a value within range.
Connect sensor to my VCU
Too low (e.g. < 2 bar): refrigerant leak – disables A/C. Too high (e.g. > 28 bar): high pressure protection – disables A/C.
Ambient temperature conditions: Outside temp must be above a certain threshold (usually >5°C). Prevents compressor engagement in very cold weather. Connect external sensor to my VCU.
Coolant temperature within limits: If engine coolant is too hot (e.g., >105–110°C), A/C may be cut to reduce engine load. Dont need this one...
Throttle and load conditions: During full throttle or high load, ECU may temporarily cut A/C clutch. This is to preserve power and prevent misfire/knock. Dont need this one...
Battery voltage OK: If voltage drops too low (e.g. <11.5V), the compressor will be disabled to preserve battery. Dont need this one...
No ECU-stored faults in relevant systems: Any DTCs related to engine sensors (like coolant temp, pressure sensor, etc.) may block A/C activation. Dont need this one...

Pressure sensor signal
The pressure sensor monitors the high-pressure line, so:
Normal ambient temp (~20–30°C) pressure 7 – 15 bar (typical)
Very hot day (>35°C) pressure 12 – 20+ bar

The pressure sensor sends an analog voltage to the ECU (usually linear):
Voltage Approx. Pressure
0.5 V 0 bar
1.0 V ~4–5 bar
1.5 V ~10 bar
2.0 V ~15 bar
2.5 V+ ~20+ bar

I made my own AC controler that i previously used to convert RC reciever signals and convert them to digital relay signals to control hydraulic valves remotely.

Then i look to A0 pin (setup as pull_up input) to sense when car has ignition ON.
Next i use the code to turn ON AC relay between correct pressure, from 1V to 4.2V range.
I made connection to A2 pin to sense pressure on the AC lines from original connector

I also implemented two outputs to show if pressure is at either end of the range. This will let me quickly determine if AC pressure is lacking. Signal pins for controler in grey.
Pinout for my VCU

vcu-pinout-ac.pdf

(147.32 KiB) Downloaded 44 times

I made the first code for this VCU which for now only accepts input from Enable pin and Pressure sensor to open relay if signal is within norms. In future i will add outside temperature sensor as well and i will maybe use CAN bus to drive AC compressor and heater by this controler.

Code: Select all

#include <avr/wdt.h>
#include <EEPROM.h>

// Pin setup
const int pressurePin     = A2;
const int triggerPin      = A0;
const int relayPin        = 7;
const int lowPressurePin  = 4;
const int highPressurePin = 2;

// EEPROM memory addresses
const int lowAddr  = 0;
const int highAddr = 2;

// Timing
unsigned long lastReadTime = 0;
const unsigned long readInterval = 100; // ms

// Thresholds in ADC points
int lowThresholdADC;
int highThresholdADC;

// States
enum SystemState { BOOT, READY, ACTIVE };
SystemState currentState = BOOT;

// Serial control
bool serialStreaming = false;
String inputBuffer = "";

void setup() {
  pinMode(triggerPin, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(relayPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(lowPressurePin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(highPressurePin, OUTPUT);

  Serial.begin(9600);
  delay(200); // Allow USB serial connection to establish

  // Load thresholds from EEPROM
  lowThresholdADC  = EEPROM.read(lowAddr)     + (EEPROM.read(lowAddr + 1) << 8);
  highThresholdADC = EEPROM.read(highAddr)    + (EEPROM.read(highAddr + 1) << 8);

  // Fallback defaults
  if (lowThresholdADC == 0xFFFF || highThresholdADC == 0xFFFF) {
    lowThresholdADC  = 205; // ~1.0V
    highThresholdADC = 858; // ~4.2V
  }

  wdt_enable(WDTO_2S);
  currentState = READY;

  Serial.println("System READY.");
  Serial.println("Commands: s=start streaming, h###=set high, l###=set low, q=quit/save");
}

void loop() {
  wdt_reset(); // Watchdog refresh

  handleSerial(); // Process incoming serial commands

  bool triggerActive = digitalRead(triggerPin) == LOW;
  unsigned long now = millis();

  switch (currentState) {
    case READY:
      if (triggerActive) {
        currentState = ACTIVE;
      }
      break;

    case ACTIVE:
      if (!triggerActive) {
        currentState = READY;
        deactivateOutputs();
      } else if (now - lastReadTime >= readInterval) {
        lastReadTime = now;
        processPressure();
      }
      break;

    case BOOT:
    default:
      currentState = READY;
      break;
  }
}

void processPressure() {
  int sensorValue = analogRead(pressurePin);

  if (serialStreaming) {
    float mv = sensorValue * (5000.0 / 1023.0);
    Serial.print("Pressure: ");
    Serial.print(sensorValue);
    Serial.print(" ADC → ");
    Serial.print(mv, 1);
    Serial.println(" mV");
  }

  if (sensorValue < lowThresholdADC) {
    digitalWrite(relayPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(lowPressurePin, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(highPressurePin, LOW);
  } else if (sensorValue > highThresholdADC) {
    digitalWrite(relayPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(lowPressurePin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(highPressurePin, HIGH);
  } else {
    digitalWrite(relayPin, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(lowPressurePin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(highPressurePin, LOW);
  }
}

void deactivateOutputs() {
  digitalWrite(relayPin, LOW);
  digitalWrite(lowPressurePin, LOW);
  digitalWrite(highPressurePin, LOW);
}

void handleSerial() {
  while (Serial.available()) {
    char c = Serial.read();
    if (c == '\n' || c == '\r') {
      processCommand(inputBuffer);
      inputBuffer = "";
    } else {
      inputBuffer += c;
    }
  }
}

void processCommand(String cmd) {
  cmd.trim();

  if (cmd == "s") {
    serialStreaming = true;
    Serial.println("Streaming ENABLED.");
  } else if (cmd == "q") {
    serialStreaming = false;
    saveThresholds();
    Serial.println("Streaming DISABLED. Thresholds saved to EEPROM.");
  } else if (cmd.startsWith("h")) {
    int val = cmd.substring(1).toInt();
    if (val >= 0 && val <= 1023) {
      highThresholdADC = val;
      float mv = val * (5000.0 / 1023.0);
      Serial.print("High threshold set: ");
      Serial.print(val);
      Serial.print(" ADC → ");
      Serial.print(mv, 1);
      Serial.println(" mV");
    }
  } else if (cmd.startsWith("l")) {
    int val = cmd.substring(1).toInt();
    if (val >= 0 && val <= 1023) {
      lowThresholdADC = val;
      float mv = val * (5000.0 / 1023.0);
      Serial.print("Low threshold set: ");
      Serial.print(val);
      Serial.print(" ADC → ");
      Serial.print(mv, 1);
      Serial.println(" mV");
    }
  } else {
    Serial.println("Unrecognized command.");
  }
}

void saveThresholds() {
  EEPROM.update(lowAddr,     lowThresholdADC & 0xFF);
  EEPROM.update(lowAddr + 1, lowThresholdADC >> 8);
  EEPROM.update(highAddr,    highThresholdADC & 0xFF);
  EEPROM.update(highAddr + 1,highThresholdADC >> 8);
}

Relays now react to pressure input and with regard to ignition contact.
I wired controler power supply to the main relay that powers my VCU when i open the door.
The second relay i connected to the DC contactor relay. I need another relay because i need to sense the GND side on the interlock pin which tells controler that DC contactor is ON and compressor can be started from HV.
Then there is the relay which is governed by pressure sensor and will pass AC signal to VCU to drive AC compressor.
I use the final signal to show low pressure error, just to be sure if in future AC stopped operating.

[johu]

Nice work, another silly black box gone

[arber333]

Nice work, another silly black box gone

Yes i actually think on taking ECM out and providing just CAN signals to BCM. Wonder what would happen then... For now it is still there as some of the switches and lights go from BCM to fuse box through ECM... Too much work for too little effect to make brain surgery, so i will keep the dead weight for a while.

I am now working on battery boxes and thinking on cooling/heating them... should be interesting next post...

[arber333]

Mounting rear battery boxes is hard work!

At the start you noticed i used flat aluminum panel instead of plastic trunk covering. Well the plan is to use this plate to mount two 24S boxes from the underside. I made mounts to fit on the sides that are aligned with the centerline and in the center i joined two mounts together to fit a single bolt.

Two boxes will fit at the back and i will fit another 24S box under the rear seat alike to fuel tank.

First i went on the underside and i trial fited the central "tank".

I installed the mounts under the seats and again trial fitted the empty box. It looks good.
Notice the bulge for the contacts? I will be fitting here a contact plane with a bolt to accept cables from other boxes. This is how i intend to build 96S battery in the end.

I made aluminum contacts on a lathe. I also made isolator casing for those contacts. They should tightly fit together in a hole on the side of the battery box. The plastic will shield alu box from HV and notch in the front part will allow me to tighten the outside cable lug comfortably under the car.

On the underside i will have alu contacts prebent and cut to fit the bolt on the side and the contact of the battery on teh 90deg fitting.

Like i said it is a lot of work and tough when performing by one person. This is why i added handles to battery boxes so two persons can carry what i am expecting to be 60kg box.

[arber333]

I prepared the DC link fittings to fit on top the first battery pair.

Between cells i fit 1mm plastic corrugated sheet used for separator in metalworking. It is wonderfully smooth and able to be compressed if needed.
I find it absolutely mandatory with this cells as they are alu box themselves. Thin side insulation foil they use is not sufficient in high vibration enviroment - the car. So i add additional separators to be safe. Voltage difference in one box can reach 96Vdc...

On the underside i use two layers and 3mm alu plate where i will fit 230Vac electric heaters for winter use.
I use the same material on the sides as insulation, electrical as well as thermal.
I use the same material under the inox battery cover. I tack it with a double sided tape so it will stick to the cover.
Also i use two metal braces fit to hold the cells weight in case of overturning.

[johu]

That is very compact! How do you terminate the studs to protect them from being touched and moisture?
Which BMS are you planning on? I have something for you

[arber333]

That is very compact! How do you terminate the studs to protect them from being touched and moisture?
Which BMS are you planning on? I have something for you

I am still working on rubber caps for cable terminals i think i can get them in red and black...

What do you offer?
BMS i already have ZEVA 24S BMS and if you look close you can see CAN wires in and out of the pack.
It provides everything...cell count, voltage level per cell, SOC, curent display temperature control and integration via CAN bus.
viewtopic.php?t=5871

[arber333]

At the start you noticed i used flat aluminum panel instead of plastic trunk covering. The plan is to use this plate to mount two 24S boxes from the underside of the trunk. I made mounts to fit on the sides that are aligned with the centerline and in the center i joined two mounts together to fit a single bolt.

Boxes are dimensioned to fit 24S cells together with ZEVA 24S BMS which makes this box a self sistained unit. BMS will report correct cell voltage and in reference to cells also position within the pack.

Two boxes will fit at the back and i will fit another 24S box under the rear seat alike to fuel tank.

First i went on the underside and i trial fited the central “tank”.

I installed the mounts under the seats and again trial fitted the empty box. It looks good.
Notice the bulge for the contacts? I will be fitting here a contact plane with a bolt to accept cables from other boxes. This is how i intend to build 96S battery in the end.

I made aluminum contacts on a lathe. I also made isolator casing for those contacts. They should tightly fit together in a hole on the side of the battery box. The plastic will shield alu box from HV and notch in the front part will allow me to tighten the outside cable lug comfortably under the car.

It all comes together tightly and there is space in the middle for the boxes 3mm wall

I notched the front disk so i can fit the No.19 spanner and hold the contact in place while i tighten the nut on the lead.

On the inside i will have alu contacts prebent and cut to fit the bolt on the side and the contact of the battery on teh 90deg fitting.

Like i said it is a lot of work and tough when performing by one person. This is why i added handles to battery boxes so two persons can carry what i am expecting to be 60kg box.

All those cells will be secured against overturning by inox U profile bolted at each end of the box. I will strick some isolation material under the profile so its sharp edges wont nick BMS cables.

Once the box is assembled i connect BMS and test it for signal integrity. Also i fit one 500A fuse element in every box just because the contacts will be rather exposed and i think a fuse per box is a good measure of protection VS one fuse in the middle.

I get good signal at 95.3Vdc from all 24S cells.
I finally tucked in all cables and sort them out and bandaged them. I covered the box and sealed it down by using duct tape on the cover. This will secure the cover while i transport the box as well as when i mount it in its place. I also taped the contacts since they carry live 96Vdc now and although i will work with gloves there could be exposed skin contacting those terminals while installing heavy object. While i dont consider 100Vdc particularly lethal since skin is a good isolator you must be aware that our mussle reactions under such voltage are not predictable and could lead to injury from displaced weight or hitting other stuff in tight places.

There are three of the wide boxes to be made to fit in front and at the back. Standard boxes for 24S in two rows dimensioned at 570mm x 460mm.
But there is another box of 24S that would be stacked in one row. This box will be 1080mm x 230mm.
I had to get creative with dimensions and in the end a friend TIG welded another small box to the first where i will fit the contacts. It is all somewhat elaborate, but i made it in that way so i caould quickly access battery leads from underside.
If you consider this box to carry about 60kg of batteries it is still light enough to be fitted by way of small scissors jack and some elbow grease of two men...

Again i fitted cross brace for antiroll function.

Before sorting everything out i tested BMS communication.

Finally i set the IDs on the BMS in order of battery contacts. The firstmost BMS is labeled 0 as it is begginning from the negativemost cell at the back. Here you can see the selector positioned for the final box at the front where the furthest most + cell is located.

Installation pics follow...
https://evmeganetech.wordpress.com/

[johu]

Seems cell to pack was invented way before the industry called it an "innovation"

VdE considers DC up to 120 V as save to touch and I've tried it it's quite boring. What wouldn't be boring is shorting them out so try no to cut through the tape while mounting...

[arber333]

At the front part i managed to install the front box. Due to the ammount of work i managed to make photos at the steps only when i had both hands free .

First i installed the amp meter which will be connected inside the DC contactor box on the negative lead oriented towards the negative pole.

Then i inspected the box insides and confirmed that i receive signal from all 96 cells.

I added additional cable from DC contactor to the battery last positive contact. The cable from the rear boxes will be connected to the negative of the front box. For now i stil have the GTE battery connected in the back. This is the reason for both cables connected at the same stub.

In the end i mounted the front bumper and put on the inox cover.

I also managed to make a gap to remove the contact box if needed. Under the box is 12V battery which could need replacement...
There is no HV connected there, i just put the lable there for the fun of it .

[arber333]

Seems cell to pack was invented way before the industry called it an "innovation"

VdE considers DC up to 120 V as save to touch and I've tried it it's quite boring. What wouldn't be boring is shorting them out so try no to cut through the tape while mounting...

I made my connections far enough so i wouldnt be able to touch between contacts together not even in accident. They are oriented in opposite ways from chassis metal and there is a lot of air between the next wall.
As a final measure i installed one 500A slow blow fuse across halfh box. In any case there would be a loud bang and no more unless extreme damage to the underside. I am stil evaluating on how to add a step shield before the middle box because in reality rear axle is protecting the rear box set.

There is another consideration i didnt consider. This car is touring and i expected it to have stronger springs in the back. Now that i have 120kg (+100kg aux GTE battery in trunk) on the rear axle i see quite pronounced raceboat nose lift... i will have to think about getting stronger springs or make some rear spring spacers... 30mm looks to be about right.

[crasbe]

You can buy Heavy Duty springs for the Renault Megane III. That should correct the ride height in the rear.

[arber333]

Now that i ran with Outlander rear motor and inverter in Megane for several test drives up to 120km/h i can say the interface works as i intended.
While drive is nice and smooth i noticed rather sluggish torque response in the range from 90km/h to 120km/h. Field weakening or power reduction to protect small battery? I use the same code as in Mazda here: viewtopic.php?p=66695#p66695
Could be that the car is heavier as well, but torque response in lower RPM region is on par with Mazda.

I think motor is not different in power. Actually i use the same model F1E1A2B5Z...
Difference could be in the inverter. In mazda i use P/N 9410A163 from 2020 but here i got P/N 9410A081 from 2017 Outlander. Is there really such a difference?

I got one replacement inverter 9410A163 and if there is no difference in torque response by changing firmware i will try to replace inverter and see if there would be any difference then....

[arber333]

I have connected all parts of my BMS. I have 4x 24S modules each in its own battery box connected to others by CAN wires and 12V supply.

All boxes were tested for correct wiring and working communication.

Next i connected current sensor in the line. It worked at once. I connect it to negative line of the pack.

I connected BMS display and EVMS3 master unit. I test it with 12V permanent voltage. I tested charging and LCD responds with negative current.

I prepared wires for sensory conenctions:
1. Enable wire to signal driving, pull up to 12V, Gn/Ye
2. Charging wire to signal charging, pull to GND, Gn/Bk
3. Multipurpose input, Wh/Bk
4. Multipurpose Output1, signal of undertemp to start battery heater, Vi
5. Multipurpose Output2, Pk/Bu
6. SOC meter signal for fuel probe, PWM, Ye

I entered setup and prepared battery modules and cell info.

Probably i will add another wire to use to hold one relay open when charging but when BMS would detect error state it would trip this line and stop charging.

[arber333]

DOH!
I just found out the RH brake light doesnt work... but the LH and central brake light are both fine.... when i tested the light bulb it was fine.
Then i went to test both ends of the wire...AND of course i wouldnt get any signal there!!! This means a broken wire! I didnt even try to find the break as i see the wire bundle and i am totaly in the dark...
I guess i will have to string a wire from the LH front of the car to the RH back diagonally before MOT inspection... whish me luck.

[arber333]

Another news...
I got Megane to garage and managed to make some repairs and corrections.
First i foiund the tiny coolant leak that left a stain n my driveway... it was hidden in hoses under the bumber. I simply used a good hose clamp.
Second, as i was at the hoses i released coolant and removed the front bumper, which allowed me to access inverter. I removed the cables and inverter itself. I replaced my older inverter P/N 9410A081 with newer model P/N 9410A163 from 2020. After a short drive later this evening it really seems the takeoff is somewhat more powerful. I will elaborate later...
Third item on the menu was heater pump. During the testing after i finished everything i noticed the heater would not transfer any heat. Its frame was hot, but pump wouldnt work. I had to replace it. Luckily i had a direct spare .

Fourth... i installed Outlander Chademo port at front. I managed to squeeze the connector under hood and relayed cables along the firewall down into the middle tunnel. Later i will connect this somewhere...

sorry no photos, i was at it whole day and my phone died at about noon. I didnt have any time to think about it ...