Jaguar XJ6 V12 will be electric!!!

[Jacobsmess]

There's no built in DCDC for 12v within the GS450h inverter

Oh really? I thought there was. Damian also said in the red arrow vid he was going to use the DCDC from the GS300H inverter if I'm not mistaken.

[Bigpie]

Gs300h does, 450h doesn't

[Tachopis]

does, 450h doesn't

Aha, ok, now I know that. Thanks

[Tachopis]

Got some updates here, working on the clutch to get the shaft locked in place and doing some soldering on the VCU. Speaking of which, I was supposed to solder three Mosfets onto IC27, IC28, and IC29, but I ended up losing one of them So, now that I'm checking the ones I've already soldered, they look to be MIC4422YM, but according to the BOM, they're supposed to be FAN3122C. They've got the same pinout, but I'm not totally sure they're interchangeable or which one I should go grab. Any thoughts?

[Tachopis]

We are making progress!!! We are testing the VCU - Inverter - GS45h but without the batteries, using a PSU that offers low amperage, max 5amps. and 60Volts. After a few attempts, we have the inverter working but still with some errors. I have an error in the PRECHARGE. Additionally, I haven't installed the ISA Shunt yet, which I understand should be necessary. With this, I have doubts, because I see the difference between the CAN1 and CAN2 versions and I'm not sure if the first one works correctly with ZV. Could someone shed some light on this issue?
IVT-S-1K-U3-I-CAN2-12/24 --> 325Eur
IVT-S-1K-U3-I-CAN1-12/24 --> 120Eur

Would the second one work with ZV?

[Jacobsmess]

Both can 1 and can 2 work, one just has a termination resistor of 120ohms and the other does not. I have a shunt that has been initialized for sale if you're interested. It has pigtails and is the 500A version. Tbh, the 500A is more than enough for the power you'll likely be pulling, it's 500A continuous and much higher peak.

[Tachopis]

Thanks Jacobsmess, sent a PM.

[Tachopis]

Not sure why, I can't see my PM to you. Please, try to reach me from your side

[Tachopis]

A new week, new progress but currently stuck. After connecting everything needed and adjusting the pedal parameters, etc., the motor shaft won't turn; it seems something is blocking it, when we press the throttle, the motor moves but just initiates the spin and stops like it was blocked. It rotates smoothly by hand, and we've connected the wires from the Shifter Connector, P to HSDN on the inverter, R and D to pins 53 and 54 on the VCU. I'll upload soon a video to show this. Below is the list of connected wires:

ZombieVerter ver 2.04A
12 MG2 Temp -
13 MG2 Temp +
14 MG1 Temp -
15 Ignition T15 In
16 REQ -
17 REQ +
18 CLK -
19 CLK +
20 MTH -
21 MTH +
22 HTM -
23 HTM +
-
29 MG1 Temp +
-
31 GP Out 1
32 Inverter power LS Switch
33 Main contactor LS Switch
34 Precharge LS Switch
-
37 Trans SP
38 Trans SL2 -
39 Trans SL1 -
40 Trans PB3
41 Trans PB2
42 Trans PB1
-
45 Throttle GND
46 Throttle 2
47 Throttle 1
48 Throttle +5V
-
51 HV Request
52 Start
53 Reverse Direction
54 Forward Direction
55 Ground
56 Permanent +12


INVERTER GS45H

1 GRF MG1
2 GCSG MG1
3 GSNG MG1
-
6 HSDN Shift
7 MTH - VCU
8 MTH + VCU
-
10 GND 2
11 GND 1
12 GRFG MG1
13 GCS MG1
14 GSN MG1
-
20 REQ - VCU
-
22 MFRG MG2
23 MSN MG2
24 MCS MG2
-
26 HTM - VCU
27 HTM + VCU
-
29 REQ + VCU
30 B+2 12V+
31 B+ 12V+
-
33 MRF MG2
34 MCSG MG2
35 MSNG MG2
-
38 CLK - VCU
39 CLK + VCU

Spot Values:

[tom91]

There is a new version https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/releases

Can you post your parameters please. Also no udc or INVudc shown in your spot value screenshots.

[Tachopis]

I don't have a screenshot of the parameters but the throttle works fine, the Udcsw is set to 0 as I'm not using ISA Shunt yet. The inverter is winding. I will try tomorrow to upload this video.

[Tachopis]

Big update!!!! It's alive!!!!
Well, the first test passed, and the engine is Spinning. I'll leave some videos below. For those who can help, we went crazy with a series of errors. The engine was turning but immediately locked up. We finally discovered that the MG1 and MG2 connectors were wrongly connected, we had assumed the image the other way around. Boooommm !!!! Works!!!! Now, next step, we're going to redo a workbench properly so we can check the following elements. Thanks everyone for the help, I hope that if someone is in development just like we were, ask us, so we can contribute and help as well.



I'll upload more videos with translations so you can follow the steps.

[johu]

Success stories make us happy

[Tachopis]

Hey there! Incredible, I hadn’t posted any updates since April. Well, it’s not like I’ve had much time to work on the car, but I’ve made some progress after testing the transmission with the Zombieverter. The main focus has been making advancements on the vehicle itself.

In May, I pulled out the engine, which wasn’t an easy task. I don’t have much mechanical knowledge, so I’m learning step by step. Luckily, I had some great help to get it done. (Here’s the link to the videos Michal is recording for me, he’s the one helping me with the transformation)



I also took out the tanks, ufff I really don’t like being on camera :p

I had a 3-month break while traveling around Europe in a campervan. Well, and also thinking about the conversion, of course :p
From September to October, I’ve been buying some components and getting the vehicle ready. Using a sandblaster, I removed the rust and old, damaged paint from the engine bay. Then I treated the rust and spray-painted it with the car’s original color. It’s not a professional finish, but as someone around here would say... It’s good enough.
From this:

To this:

I’ve decided to buy the charger from the MG ZS—I like how compact it is and the fact that it has V2L capability. I also got the MG fast-charging socket, though I had to buy the connector separately since they’re from different model years. At this point, I’m still undecided about whether to buy the MG junction box as well—it looks very compact, which is tempting.

Now that the car is finally in the garage, I’m starting to think about the battery setup. I’ve decided to go with 8 modules of VW 12S2p batteries from the VW ID.3 or Cupra. And yes, I know cardboard boxes can handle *anything* I’ll try to scan the inside of the engine bay for better precision. I still need to figure out which mounts to use to keep the battery box stable and secure. I’d definitely welcome some help with that!

In November, I bought the battery, as mentioned—a VW ID.3 62kWh. I’ll only be using 8 modules, which gives me 55kWh. While waiting for the battery to arrive, I started dismantling the IRS. After 40 years untouched, it definitely needs a refresh.

The battery arrived last week, but for now, it’s staying put until I finish with the IRS and clear out space to work on it safely. Hopefully, the modules are in good condition!

So yeah, sorry for the long post—this is just a brief summary of what I’ve been up to. I hope I can post updates more often moving forward so I don’t have to overload you with so much info all at once!

[Tachopis]

New day.. new challege

I bought the new Jaguar brake booster but, the Pushrod to pedal is too long. Now, I should swap the original one with the new one but I have no idea how to open this

[DVD3500]

Is there space under the hood/bonnet to use spacers to move the whole cylinder back a bit?

[Tachopis]

Although I don't have the hood installed, there is space above. The problem is behind and underneath, where the wheel arch is. I'll check it carefully.

[Uppertown]

Have you looked at Lar's web site? Lots of useful information on the I-booster

https://www.evcreate.com/installing-the-ibooster/

See this too from Greg;

viewtopic.php?p=50084#p50084

[Tachopis]

Thanks, yes I actually took the info of the part from him, very great blog. And Greg is also aware of the part I have. I just have to figure out how to reduce this Pushrod.

[Tachopis]

Other option will be use other booster a smaller one

[Uppertown]

Thanks, yes I actually took the info of the part from him, very great blog. And Greg is also aware of the part I have. I just have to figure out how to reduce this Pushrod.

The push rod should look somewhat like this;

just unscrew the clevis Cut off the amount you need ( you might have to thread a bit more of the rod) then screw the clevis back on. Adjust the length until you need to depress the brake pedal very slightly before the clevis pin will go in to ensure the master cylinder piston can fully return. Before you plumb it in check the cylinder runs out of travel before the pedal.

[Tachopis]

Great, thanks I will try that. Probably I will change the clevis for the old one if fits. I will keep posted my progress. Thanks again