Mitsubishi outlander charger and DC:DC

[arber333]

The only thing I changed from the previous failed attempt was reinstating the 220R resistor between PP and ground

I think i have 1K resistor pullup on the PP line so when my Volt socket is not connected PP is being pulled up to 12V. When i connect i get approximately 330R towards GND which is enough to trip PP input.

[Renegate2020]

Good day. Tell me, can I use the W005T70172 converter according to this scheme?

[Alibro]

I don't think Johu would appreciate this thread being taken over with discussion of BMS's. For the record I agree they are important and plan to implement one soon so maybe we should get back on topic.

On the subject of Outlander chargers I called into a Tesco carpark last night and plugged in. After around 20 minutes I had added 1kW to my battery pack so it seems to be working. The only thing I changed from the previous failed attempt was reinstating the 220R resistor between PP and ground however I was at a different model of Pod Point so I still need to try again at the charger that failed last time. I will do that some time this week to confirm if other Pod Point chargers are happy with the CAN messages my Due is sending.

Today I called back to the Podpoint charger that previously failed and tried again. This time I plugged in, activated the app and the charging started straight away. I only waited for ten minutes or so but long enough to see the pack voltage rise a little.
Next I'll try a Lidl charger but am surprised at the price of Tesco's Podpoint chargers. 46ppkWh seems like a lot for a slow charger that is there for people use while shopping.

[Alibro]

Hi guys
Now I have the LV junction box tidied up I've moved onto something I should have sorted months ago and that is automating the end of charging. I'm still setting a timer every time I start charging to remind me to unplug.
To that end I've been playing with an Arduino Due with a modified version of the Leaf Gen 1 VCU firmware.
I went through it and commented out all the CAN0.sendframe commands to prevent it interfering with the VCU and have bench tested it with a CAN dump from my car being sent by Savvycan. It looks like it is fairly simple use the output which normally closes the main positive contactor once the inverter tells it the voltage has risen above a set threshold. When the voltage rises about this level it sets pin 48 to high. Initially I could use this to control the Due which controls charging but ideally I would like the one Due to do all these jobs.

The second reason I'm considering this is I could use it to control the car CAN for things like RPM and inverter temp. I spent several days trying to get Ver 1.5 of the Leaf Gen1 software to play nice with the IVT shunt and display Voltage, Current and Power from the shunt as well as temperatures from the motor and Inverter but couldn't get it to work. If curious to know what I'm talking about take a look at the Leaf Gen1 Inverter Board thread.

So although this approach may not be very elegant it looks like it might work and hopefully fulfil two tasks at the same time but I wanted to check with you guys if this is liable to cause issues before going ahead.

[robertwa]

Is there a coolant flow direction recommended? I recall reading somewhere there is a temp sensor on the outlet, but can't locate the thread.

[arber333]

Is there a coolant flow direction recommended? I recall reading somewhere there is a temp sensor on the outlet, but can't locate the thread.

There is no preference. Both connections have a sensor and it is up to you to determine which one is in and out.

[robertwa]

There is no preference. Both connections have a sensor and it is up to you to determine which one is in and out.

Thanks, this is helpful! Anyone familiar enough with the zombie code to tell which sensor the parameter ChgTemp is reading from? I'd like to plumb my system so it is reading the hot side.

[arber333]

Thanks, this is helpful! Anyone familiar enough with the zombie code to tell which sensor the parameter ChgTemp is reading from? I'd like to plumb my system so it is reading the hot side.

Its a CAN value. If you want you cam add your own variable...
I suggest you use both input and output to make average temp. Then you can make a closed loop response.
You can do this for all Outlander components.
Info on CAN...
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