[WIP] BMW Z3

[andybpowell]

just found this on toyota club . net

l210
Drive motor: 1KM (105 kW / 300 nm)
Engine: A25A-FXS (135 kW / 221 nm), 2AR-FSE (131 kW / 221 nm)
Total power output: 166 kW (226 PS) (AZSH2#), 162 kW (220 PS) (AVE3#, AVC10, AWS21#, AWL10)
Applications: Crown AWS21#.AZSH2#, Lexus IS300h AVE3#, GS300h AWL10, RC300h AVC10

Features: coaxial configuration, 1-stage motor speed reduction planetary gear.

1 - motor-generator MG1, 2 - damper, 3 - mechanical oil pump, 4 - motor speed reduction planetary gear, 5 - motor-generator MG2, 6 - power split planetary gear (PSD)

1 - motor-generator MG1, 2 - input shaft, 3 - power split planetary gear (PSD), 4 - intermediate shaft, 5 - sun gear (MSR), 6 - ring gear (MSR), 7 - output shaft, 8 - planetary carrier (MSR), 9 - motor speed reduction planetary gear (MSR), 10 - pinion gear (MSR), 11 - motor-generator MG2, 12 - planetary carrier (PSD), 13 - ring gear (PSD), 14 - pinion gear (PSD), 15 - sun gear (PSD)

[andybpowell]

This is still really slow going but at least it's still moving forward
I've machined up a block of nylon to both seal up the hole where the hv enters the inverter and isolate the hv inputs

had some issues with the isa shunt managed to get a 300A one cheap but it wasn't a standard one it was a IVT-300-U3-TOI.CAN 2-12 (happy days) since I had no intention of drawing more current than this, followed Damiens procedure for initialising it with the Zombie and absolutly no change still churning out rubbish tried lots of things to get it working with no joy so I bit the bullet and bought a new 1000 Amp version assuming it was incompatible and the new one did exactly the same which was too much of a coincidence after lots of playing around I managed to get both of them initialised by powering them up before the Zombieverter instead of at the same time never mind all working now

[andybpowell]

I seem to have spent this week going around in circles, I thought the layout all planned but for various reasons it didn't work out so had to rebuild the transmission mount to accomodate the dc to dc/charger and inverter and also relocate the transmission oil cooler but it's all done now
the mount has gone from this

to this

Maybe I can actually get on now

[Alibro]

Sometimes you feel like an auld dog going round in circles.

[andybpowell]

I am an auld dog

[andybpowell]

Still slow going but at least it's moving forward my old battery pack is sold and the new 24kwh X5 pack should arrive monday though I seem to be building up a large collection of BMW battery cables as I've 2 complete sets now and the pack I've bought is complete I'll have to get around to selling them at some point.
The 1 series gear lever is pretty much sorted and I've written the code for it and I've got a good idea how I'm going to fix it in the car

the blanking plate for the original HV input is all fitted

As is the new HV input this is it prior to some silicone sealant and the cover

and here it is fitted above the outlander charger/dc-dc, I've also done most of the plumbing and fitted the two coolant pumps I'm considering redoing the coolant hoses with some custom made silicone or metal ones, not sure yet

[andybpowell]

Got an early prezzy from santa today

I've removed the top half of the housing and split the pack, I've done this mostly so I can actually move it as it weighs a ton

These are all of the fixings that came out it took an hour

Now it's a bit lighter I can move it to get to the wiring I'll reconnect all of the wiring and get some can logs tomorrow

[andybpowell]

The X5 pack is all stripped down it almost seems wrong to be doing it because it's so well made in comparison I feel like a caveman tying sticks together, anyway all of the loom has been unwrapped as it needs to be modified as BMW split it where it crosses from the right to left hand side but they have the first and last 3 modules on the right and the middle 6 on the left but it's a relativly minor mod.
This is the Can log if anyone wants it, thanks to Tom De Bree who has already had a look for me and say's it's pretty much the same as the BMW Phev requiring only minor changes to Simp Bms for the number of modules

https://github.com/ANDYBPOWELL/X5-CAN-LOG

[nkiernan]

Wondering what the outer LxWxH including BMS board/connectors are for these modules, are they the same as the BMW modules already noted in the wiki (either i3 or PHEV)?

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Batteries

[andybpowell]

Wondering what the outer LxWxH including BMS board/connectors are for these modules, are they the same as the BMW modules already noted in the wiki (either i3 or PHEV)?

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Batteries

same size as the 16s phev modules the bms slaves are very slightly smaller

[snelly]

Looks like the battery pack only just fitted in your workshop must of been fun getting it in there

[andybpowell]

Looks like the battery pack only just fitted in your workshop must of been fun getting it in there

I had to split the pack just to be able to move it it weighs about 200KG and it was jammed in tight

[Aragorn]

same size as the 16s phev modules the bms slaves are very slightly smaller

I guess its the same cells just reconfigured as 8s2p?

[andybpowell]

I've started rebuilding the front pack and as much as the 16s bms slave to 2x8s battery adapter boards designed by Artur worked perfectly well this is much neater

Other than getting 2 extra modules and the original bms slaves this is the other reason I bought this pack

it's just over a year old

[andybpowell]

The front battery pack is nearly ready to go back in I'm just waiting for some resistors for the contactor economiser, the BMW X5 12 X 8S BMS is all working Thanks again Tom and the rear pack is all in and ready to go just need to run a couple of cables to the back

Now that the battery HV cables are all sorted I'm going to have a lot of spares left over probably 10 or more various lengths, the X5 S-box and 12 BMW bms slaves I'll get these advertised at some point.

[Jacobsmess]

I might be interested in the SBox

[andybpowell]

Since I'm going over to a zombieverter from my own controller now that I'm swapping the LEAF motor for the GS300h I was going to just put a parallel capacitor and resistor in series with the contactor as an economiser circuit but having tried it I wasn't happy with the heat of the resistor or the energy saving it worked fine but since I'm just playing I thought I try something else, I have been using Buck converters in small circuits for years as they are cheap as chips and very energy efficient so I thought why not use one to output 12v at switch on then reduce to a holding voltage for the contactor so I did; This is the circuit diag for the one I'm using it's a variable voltage version and the output voltage is set using a variable resistor r2 in the diagram

if you set your hold voltage for your contactor using the standard circuit using the variable resistor(R2) then put a suitable sized resistor in parallel with R1 until the output is 12V then add an electrolytic capacitor in series with this resistor when you apply power the output voltage will peak at 12 then reduce down to the hold voltage that you set the time taken determined by R1,R2 and the new resistor and capacitor I'm still tweaking the values of the resistors and capacitor but it works really well and it's cheap the last batch of these buck converters I bought cost about £1.60 each.
This circuit is currently using just over 2 Watts per contactor my previous circuit using a parallel capacitor and resistor in series with the contactor was using around 7 Watts and un-economised about 28 Watts I still need to adjust the resistor and capacitor values but so far it's not a bad afternoons tinkering

[johu]

Awesome, could rip it off and sell

[andybpowell]

Awesome, could rip it off and sell

Feel free

[Alibro]

Since I'm going over to a zombieverter from my own controller now that I'm swapping the LEAF motor for the GS300h I was going to just put a parallel capacitor and resistor in series with the contactor as an economiser circuit but having tried it I wasn't happy with the heat of the resistor or the energy saving it worked fine but since I'm just playing I thought I try something else, I have been using Buck converters in small circuits for years as they are cheap as chips and very energy efficient so I thought why not use one to output 12v at switch on then reduce to a holding voltage for the contactor so I did; This is the circuit diag for the one I'm using it's a variable voltage version and the output voltage is set using a variable resistor r2 in the diagram

Capture.JPG

if you set your hold voltage for your contactor using the standard circuit using the variable resistor(R2) then put a suitable sized resistor in parallel with R1 until the output is 12V then add an electrolytic capacitor in series with this resistor when you apply power the output voltage will peak at 12 then reduce down to the hold voltage that you set the time taken determined by R1,R2 and the new resistor and capacitor I'm still tweaking the values of the resistors and capacitor but it works really well and it's cheap the last batch of these buck converters I bought cost about £1.60 each.
This circuit is currently using just over 2 Watts per contactor my previous circuit using a parallel capacitor and resistor in series with the contactor was using around 7 Watts and un-economised about 28 Watts I still need to adjust the resistor and capacitor values but so far it's not a bad afternoons tinkering

How low would you be comfortable to reduce the voltage? I tried switching VW eGolf contactors using 10V and they seemed happy to switch at that but after welding several of them I decided to switch to Kilovac's
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmFk0Ib

I don't know if these are genuine or not but they weigh the same look and feel identical and have the same copper posts. I'll keep monitoring them but so far no probs. Note the "genuine" ones I am comparing them to were used ones from Israel I bought a few years ago but one of them was faulty so I don't trust the second.

[andybpowell]

How low would you be comfortable to reduce the voltage? I tried switching VW eGolf contactors using 10V and they seemed happy to switch at that but after welding several of them I decided to switch to Kilovac's
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmFk0Ib

I don't know if these are genuine or not but they weigh the same look and feel identical and have the same copper posts. I'll keep monitoring them but so far no probs. Note the "genuine" ones I am comparing them to were used ones from Israel I bought a few years ago but one of them was faulty so I don't trust the second.

I'm using gigavac contactors and the recommended hold voltage for mine is 2.6v you still need 12v to close them in the first place

[snelly]

I used similar ic for LPG peak and hold infectors

https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/an15 ... he-mpq6610

[jrbe]

Has anyone tried a peak and hold driver yet for contactor control? Something like an LM1949. This should be a low EMI / noise solution.

Could possibly use the STM32 to go on for a time then switch to pwm to hold them. Might be noisy / ground bouncey though.

[andybpowell]

just made up a controller to do the things that the Zombieverter currently doesn't the power steering pump control, the BMW f series gearlever and a few other things though there's no reason why it can't maybe something for the future anyway it's not exactly JLPCB but it does the job thought someone might be interested

[andybpowell]

This is the final version of my economiser using a buck converter using a much smaller one now so I can finish my front battery box and get on

came out really well