1971 GMCe Lexus GS450H BMW 530e Tesla Model S Electruck [Upgrade]

[Gregski]

Take Cover !!!

I only work with the finest of metals from my scrap pile.

this is just a trial fit, she will get a coat of paint and maybe even some sort of a rubberized gasket

[DkubusEV]

Will you be using the upper dc-dc converter section of the inverter to power anything? If not couldn't you remove the whole upper section and make a new "cooling plate" for the main inverter section below? Just thinking out loud...

I may be way off ??

[Gregski]

Will you be using the upper dc-dc converter section of the inverter to power anything? If not couldn't you remove the whole upper section and make a new "cooling plate" for the main inverter section below? Just thinking out loud...

I may be way off ??

good question, my knowledge of the guts inside this box is limited to knowing which ones are metal and which one are plastic, lol, actually I think the reason we use an external circuit board called a VCU or Vehicle Control Unit to control this box is probably because we don't know what does what and we just leave it alone and just use it as path ways, correct me if I am wrong

[Gregski]

let's spit ball here

Charlotte Pipe FlowGuard 3/4 in. Slip X 1/2 in. D Slip CPVC Tee
Item #41952
Mfr #CTS024002000

What, are we plumbers now?

[Gregski]

Where are we going with this? OK, 1" spacer

[Gregski]

the Double Barrel Shotgun design TM

Note: some filing and grinding required to make that cable lug fit in the 1/2" hole

[Jacobsmess]

I like this a lot

[Gregski]

in order to get the 360 high voltage wires as close to the inverter as possible we have to modify the inverter bracket

[Gregski]

but first we must reinforce what's already there and what will remain after the debauchery that is about to ensue

[Gregski]

for this we will need some metal, so off to the Shed of Stuff where it appears we are running a little bit low on stock

[Gregski]

snap crackle pop, did I just break OpenInverter ?

Note To Self: cut back on the comedy

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[Gregski]

this piece seems large enuff

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[Gregski]

so this is what I'm going for I call it the Winged Hussars design

[Gregski]

I like to prime, paint, and clear coat all my custom made brackets first before cutting them up... (can any of you relate?)

I'm still working on my Welding Game and here I tried the tac tac tac method (dumb I know)

first attempt at the proper cut out

[Gregski]

so that first cut out wasn't wide enuff to clear a plastic cable bracket I wanted to mount right below the lug connection, so I had to make a bigger cut out

and here I am trying a totally different plastic cable bracket, just spit ballin' ideas on the fly

[Gregski]

you've heard of death by a thousand cuts, well this ended up being design by a thousand cuts

after attempting to trial fit this newly augmented inverter bracket I of course realized it would now not clear the battery lid tray thingy, so I lopped a section of the left wing off (that hurt, cause I am all about symmetry)

[Gregski]

second attempt, FAILED again but only by this much

I need to recalibrate my eyecrometer

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um... you may wanna rethink that dude!

[Gregski]

at this point I've reached the I don't give a shit any more phase of the gentle trimming and I just went for it, and whalla a perfect fit every time !

[Gregski]

alright, these cables better reach

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this is just a trial fit, the black plastic cable bracket is just loosely dangling on there (I didn't have the energy to deal with it that day)

[Gregski]

Compared to aluminium and copper, stainless steel is a terrible conductor: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spezifischer_Widerstand (the English wikipedia uses different units..)

We have a specific resistivity of ~0.017 (Ohm * mm²) / m for copper, 0.1-0.2 (Ohm * mm²) / m for steel and 0.72 (Ohm * mm²) / m for V2A stainless steel.
Keep in mind: less is better, which means copper conducts 40x better than stainless steel.

I appreciate your comment but this is now turning into a three ring circus, I originally wanted to go with copper but could not find any so I wanted to do aluminum, but someone said that they may snap off, so I ordered steel stand offs and I got this message on DIY Electric Car, please check it out for funsies, this should take you directly there

1971 GMCe Lexus GS450H BMW 530e Tesla Model S powered Electruck

[crasbe]

Well now, that's something we can calculate, can't we?

With a thermal expansion coefficent of 23.0e-6 1/K for Aluminium and 13.0e-6 1/K for Steel, and an assumed length of 1 banana (25.4mm) for your spacer and a whooping 100K temperature difference, we arrive at an elongation of 58nm for the Aluminium spacer or 33nm for the Steel spacer.
(For copper it would be 42nm and for brass it would be 44nm).
For completeness we would have to calculate the stresses introduced by the elongation of the spacer, but for that we would have to know the precise torque of the bolt etc etc. There is just no sense to calculate that.

I would say that the difference will not cause your bolts becoming lose. Especially if you use loctite


Conclusion: Just use brass like everyone else. Or use copper, the internal busbars of the inverter are bare copper as well and it doesn't cause any problems.
Or you could use tinning paste (like solder paste) to coat the copper spacer in tin.

=> Use whatever except steel or stainless steel

[Gregski]

Well now, that's something we can calculate, can't we?

With a thermal expansion coefficent of 23.0e-6 1/K for Aluminium and 13.0e-6 1/K for Steel, and an assumed length of 1 banana (25.4mm) for your spacer and a whooping 100K temperature difference, we arrive at an elongation of 58nm for the Aluminium spacer or 33nm for the Steel spacer.
(For copper it would be 42nm and for brass it would be 44nm).
For completeness we would have to calculate the stresses introduced by the elongation of the spacer, but for that we would have to know the precise torque of the bolt etc etc. There is just no sense to calculate that.

I would say that the difference will not cause your bolts becoming lose. Especially if you use loctite


Conclusion: Just use brass like everyone else. Or use copper, the internal busbars of the inverter are bare copper as well and it doesn't cause any problems.
Or you could use tinning paste (like solder paste) to coat the copper spacer in tin.

=> Use whatever except steel or stainless steel

me as I read that

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[Gregski]

today the stare down began between me and the first gen Chevy Volt DC DC converter, I hoped I could will it to connect itself to the BMW 530e Battery Safety Box

so this thing is like a alternator in the car, and I don't want it to have a permanent connection to the high voltage battery, so I am thinking if I tap it into the Safety Box aka the Contactor Box on the output side then it will only make a connection to the battery pack when the contactors are closed

For any of you who are A. reading this, and B. having trouble sleeping, I highly recommend my I bought a Chevy Volt Gen1 DC-DC Converter - Now What? thread, where I seek help taming that beast

[Gregski]

maybe this will work, I would love to ignore I mean hear your thoughts

that may be a 20 amp fuse I may shove something lesser in there or morer I don't know, whatever you recommend

I am also entertaining the idea of just shoving this entire black BMW Safety Box into one of them electrical plastic boxes and not even putting it's flimzy OEM lid back on just using the lid from the bigger electrical box, bonus if I can find an orange one

[Pete9008]

Well now, that's something we can calculate, can't we?

With a thermal expansion coefficent of 23.0e-6 1/K for Aluminium and 13.0e-6 1/K for Steel, and an assumed length of 1 banana (25.4mm) for your spacer and a whooping 100K temperature difference, we arrive at an elongation of 58nm for the Aluminium spacer or 33nm for the Steel spacer.
(For copper it would be 42nm and for brass it would be 44nm).
For completeness we would have to calculate the stresses introduced by the elongation of the spacer, but for that we would have to know the precise torque of the bolt etc etc. There is just no sense to calculate that.

I would say that the difference will not cause your bolts becoming lose. Especially if you use loctite


Conclusion: Just use brass like everyone else. Or use copper, the internal busbars of the inverter are bare copper as well and it doesn't cause any problems.
Or you could use tinning paste (like solder paste) to coat the copper spacer in tin.

=> Use whatever except steel or stainless steel

Think you might have your decimal point in the wrong place, I make it 58um (or around 2.36thou) for the above materials and sizes.

Couldn't understand how it could be nm as then thermal shrink fits of shafts and bearings wouldn't work!

Agree completely though - make it out of copper or brass and it will be fine.