I bought a Honda CR-V iBooster Gen 1 - Now what?

[Gregski]

As someone once said to me when I asked if they had a security torx bit set...

"Yeah, here's my security torx bit set"

And then they slid over their drill bits.

Or maybe it was a dremel and a slot screwdriver.

Either way. Eeesh. $30 + shipping for the 1 bit you'll need, once.

Exactly, let's just say Mr. Honda aint gonna be getting an Xmas card this year!

[Gregski]

I love buying single purpose specialty tools, so I went out and bought some more, cause owning hex and torx bits aint enough, now we need torx sockets

well and then even undoin' the four bolts that hold the platypus black plastic box section down, I still could not remove it

Why am I doing all this? cause judging by the condition I found the piston in the mastery cylinder in I recon this iBooster may have come from a flooded vehicle, salvaged by the insurance company, sold at an auction, and then parted out on eBay

[Gregski]

here I point out where the two black plastic pieces come together in holy matrimony

below, note how the four screws come in from the other side [pronounced: "impossible to git to"]

[Gregski]

this next section aint for the faint of heart


I bought a heat gun and I aint afraid to use it!

having gently peeled the lip off this lid I was beginning to think that when the Germans said this aint no serviceable part, they may have meant it

[Gregski]

then I used the Damien Technique to persuade the (remainder of) the lid off

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Hmm, very persuasive.

Did it concede that your argument was superior?

...

Spent some time vine swinging in the Amazon. Found residual valves for $13 shipping included, and proportioning valves for $18. I'm somewhat skeptical that they're proportioning and not just adjustable residuals.

... and they're all for 3/16" lines with imperial 3/8" x24 threads. I can't find anything with 10mm x1.0.

So if I want to use any, I have to buy another set of fittings, and then be stuck with some 10mm and some 3/8" x24.

I guess it's always something I can alter later.

Chop the brake line and insert the residual or prop valves.

Did a ton of reading on residual valves. Looks like maybe it has nothing to do with stopping the springs from pulling back all the way to the backstops (springs are ~75lbs). It has maybe to do with, when you release the pedal, the spring being so strong that the seals can let air suck past. So you keep some positive pressure on the back end.

With respect to prop valves, I can just test. Slam on the brakes and see if the rears lock up first. If they do, they need the pressure reduced in the rear. You'd only ever notice on hard braking events, but, that's when you really need your brakes so, they better be working. Fancier prop valves will keep pressure the same at low speeds (when there's not a lot of weigh transfer to the front, but also, who cares, it's low speed), but ease up at higher pressures.

I dunno, just kinda burnt out on it all. Lots of naysayers in both directions and too much bro-science that no one's ever actually gone out and tested or measured.

[Gregski]

Hmm, very persuasive.

Did it concede that your argument was superior?

...

Spent some time vine swinging in the Amazon. Found residual valves for $13 shipping included, and proportioning valves for $18. I'm somewhat skeptical that they're proportioning and not just adjustable residuals.

... and they're all for 3/16" lines with imperial 3/8" x24 threads. I can't find anything with 10mm x1.0.

So if I want to use any, I have to buy another set of fittings, and then be stuck with some 10mm and some 3/8" x24.

I guess it's always something I can alter later.

Chop the brake line and insert the residual or prop valves.

Did a ton of reading on residual valves. Looks like maybe it has nothing to do with stopping the springs from pulling back all the way to the backstops (springs are ~75lbs). It has maybe to do with, when you release the pedal, the spring being so strong that the seals can let air suck past. So you keep some positive pressure on the back end.

With respect to prop valves, I can just test. Slam on the brakes and see if the rears lock up first. If they do, they need the pressure reduced in the rear. You'd only ever notice on hard braking events, but, that's when you really need your brakes so, they better be working. Fancier prop valves will keep pressure the same at low speeds (when there's not a lot of weigh transfer to the front, but also, who cares, it's low speed), but ease up at higher pressures.

I dunno, just kinda burnt out on it all. Lots of naysayers in both directions and too much bro-science that no one's ever actually gone out and tested or measured.

sounds about right, before attempting my EV conversion I did a couple LS Engine swaps (where you take a Corvette like engine and shove it into any car that is not a Corvette) and I'll tell you I could start on Friday evening after work, and yank the donor engine and transmission out of the donor vehicle, Saturday yank the old engine and transmission out of my old recipient vehicle, Sunday shove the LS Engine/transmission into my old vehicle and be 87.654% done with the project, then spend the next 3 to 6 months chasing down stupid metric to standard adapters, couplings, fittings, hose ends, AN this to AN thats

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

then spend the next 3 to 6 months chasing down stupid metric to standard adapters, couplings, fittings, hose ends, AN this to AN thats

Yep. Like my inverter. Solder it all up in half hour. 3 years to connect it properly and make it work.

...

They are rare, but I eventually found some replacement fittings. Male 1/8" NPT into female 10mm x1.0 inverted so you could replace the ones on the residual valve. Rather than being $0.60/ea with free shipping like most brake fittings (or available at NAPA), they were $6-$33 each, plus shipping. Several places said they had to have them custom made. I almost splurged before sanity took over, knowing that "just another $50" here is "just another $50" in 50 other places on the build if I want things to be perfect. So, oh well, I'll either use 3/16" 24tpi inverted to 10mmm 1.0 inverted adapters, or, just live with a mixture of 10mm and 3/16" x24 brake fittings for an extra $1.20. I've never changed or replaced brake hardware in my life, I imagine I could go the rest of my life without ever touching these fittings again either. But woe on anyone who'd inherit this rolling floorsweepings of fittings I call a car. "Who would use 10mm and 3/16" fittings on the SAME BREAK LINE!???" they'll exalt to the clouds, and receive no reply.

[mane2]

What happened to this project? Were you able to get it to work? I'm wondering if I should swap my manual brakes to ibooster ones ..

[Gregski]

What happened to this project? Were you able to get it to work? I'm wondering if I should swap my manual brakes to ibooster ones ..

I am about to revisit this project this Spring, in the meantime please PM me on here and I will share some resources with you.

in the meantime, strength in numbers, this gent who calls himself Frank may have figured it out (again PM me)

[itiuk]

Nice work! I'm doing this same conversion but on a Miata NB (MX5 in UK). I was wondering, in your pics of the main connector wiring, there was a thin black wire on pin 15 - any idea where that went? Is it another ground connection? I don't see it listed in any of the pinout diagrams I've seen...

Chris

[Gregski]

Nice work! I'm doing this same conversion but on a Miata NB (MX5 in UK). I was wondering, in your pics of the main connector wiring, there was a thin black wire on pin 15 - any idea where that went? Is it another ground connection? I don't see it listed in any of the pinout diagrams I've seen...

Chris

Hi Chris, I sent you a PM, as far as that black wire on Pin #15 it goes to nowhere


EVcreate Wiring the iBooster

[Gregski]

a Honda S2000 with an iBooster


Rywire EV S2000 Electronics overview.

[AMP3R]

Are flexible brake lines a reliable solution?

[jrbe]

Are flexible brake lines a reliable solution?
Screenshot from 2024-01-19 11-18-14.png

OEMs use them to and sometimes from the abs.

They are ok even if they flex. They're used in racing at each wheel but should be replaced every few years when they flex.

Just make sure they're meant for brake systems & pressure.

You'll probably have to "bleed" the banjo bolts, air will likely get trapped up there. Might be really hard to eliminate, there's a pocket in the banjo that air will sit up top of