Lexus GS450h Stator Windings

[PacEmaker]

Having just checked stator windings of MG1 and MG2 in my salvaged L110 transmission it appears they are not good, very low and wildly varying values ranging from 16 to 66 milliohms in both motors. Two questions:

1. Does anyone have info on what these windings should read in milliohms, either factory specs or by testing your 'good' stators?

2. Are new stators available as spare parts?

[sfk]

This is alarming because it undermines the belief that Toyota makes good stuff that's indestructible

Did you buy this L110 gearbox from a salvage yard?

I'm intending to import one from Japan (nothing available in NZ) and now it looks like I could end up with a lemon too.
I don't think any part exporter in Japan is going to do a thorough health check on a $500 car part before putting it in a shipping container. Especially if it involves any sort of electrical tech skill or dismantling.

[PacEmaker]

This is alarming because it undermines the belief that Toyota makes good stuff that's indestructible

Did you buy this L110 gearbox from a salvage yard?

I'm intending to import one from Japan (nothing available in NZ) and now it looks like I could end up with a lemon too.
I don't think any part exporter in Japan is going to do a thorough health check on a $500 car part before putting it in a shipping container. Especially if it involves any sort of electrical tech skill or dismantling.

I bought the whole car from a salvage auction, listed as 'theft damaged'. Blown inverter in the boot, replacement inverter under the bonnet and evidence of a workshop having tried to get the car working again. They failed and the car was written off.

If I have to resort to getting another used transmission I'll be taking my milliohm meter to the wrecking yard and testing stator windings before committing to buy. Preferably I find a source for new stators. I think John Kelly of weberauto mentions Prius stators being available in a video.

[sfk]

Ok. So this is a bit better then. The car was stolen and thrashed to death and then possibly screwed up more by a repair shop?

Or would you say the stator windings are just plain worn out? Because that's different again.
This would effect whether the mileage on the car needs to be taken into account when buying these transmissions.

[PacEmaker]

I have no idea if the car was thrashed or even if it was actually stolen or someone tried to steal stuff out of it. Talking to the workshop that tried to fix it, they didn't seem to know how it got a blown inverter. Maybe they blew it up when trying to fix other electrical issues, dunno. Car has around 150,000km on it so I doubt it's simply worn out.

[PacEmaker]

Is anyone out there in a position to measure the stator winding resistances of a good L110 transmission?

The only reference I could find is to the L110F 'Phase Resistance' (below) and I don't understand how they actually get to the figure of 0.0225Ω quoted in this table that compares it with Camry & Prius stators. 'Average of Phase-to-Phase Divided By Two' makes no sense to duffers like me. Why would you divide the average of three measurements by two?

Suffice to say it would be helpful to have DC resistance measurements available for checking stator windings are good when hunting for another transmission.

[kiwifiat]

Is anyone out there in a position to measure the stator winding resistances of a good L110 transmission?

The only reference I could find is to the L110F 'Phase Resistance' (below) and I don't understand how they actually get to the figure of 0.0225Ω quoted in this table that compares it with Camry & Prius stators. 'Average of Phase-to-Phase Divided By Two' makes no sense to duffers like me. Why would you divide the average of three measurements by two?

Suffice to say it would be helpful to have DC resistance measurements available for checking stator windings are good when hunting for another transmission.

Phase resistance L110F.png

Because when you measure the resistance between two phase leads on a "Y' wound stator you are measuring the resistance of two phases.

[PacEmaker]

Because when you measure the resistance between two phase leads on a "Y' wound stator you are measuring the resistance of two phases.

Duh of course, I should have drawn it for myself and that would have made sense!

Thanks for that. Do you know what the tolerance between windings should be? I'm guessing similar to the Prius tolerances John Kelly quotes in his milliohm meter video e.g. no more than 2 milliohms difference between the highest and lowest readings in a stator - as per this video (at approx. 25min mark)

[Isaac96]

If the tolerance for the Prius is 2 milliohms, and it looks like 105 milliohms, that's a 2% tolerance. So for your 22.5 milliohm transaxle you should hope to be within 0.5 milliohms or so. Realistically, if the windings aren't drastically different (dead shorted) then it should still work fine. Also there will likely be some measurement error.

[PacEmaker]

If you watch the video he was talking about 2 milliohms lattitude with 34 milliohm windings. Not 105 milliohm windings. But I take your point about the percentage tolerance, which is what I'd like to apply once I know what the L110 windings are supposed to read if anyone out there has a good GS450h transmission they can measure for me.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

I have no idea if the car was thrashed or even if it was actually stolen or someone tried to steal stuff out of it.

Sounds like you got scammed. You went into it expecting typical theft-related damage, instead you had considerable non-theft-related damage.

Only-slightly-related-story:

A decade or two ago, body shops were making a killing by convincing people with mid-aged insurance writeoffs to sell them their cars for practically salvage value. The key being, these vehicles had some slightly cosmetic damage that wrote them off (a light scratch across multiple body panels might do it on a vehicle not worth a paint job to make it perfect again ($5000)). The vehicles, even though written off, were perfectly mechanically capable and driveable vehicles that deserve a half-assed touchup job, but just couldn't be repaired to their before-collision status (perfect paint) cost-effectively. So, $7000 car that needs $5000 of paintwork = writeoff. But still worth like, $6000 with a quick scrap-repair.

So body shops were taking advantage of everyone who didn't understand this, and offering them $200 for their $6000 car because "it's a writeoff". Business was so good, that they had to compete with each other. Still a rip off to the owners, but prices were going up to like, $1500 and $2000 for these "writeoffs". Usually sold by nothing more than pictures to see the scratches and "dead batteries" because they'd been sitting.

So a friend of mine and his friends, enterprising teenagers would buy actual junk cars at salvage auctions. The ones where engines were nearly exploded or transmissions blown out, needed front or rear end rebuilds, or were otherwise worthless because they needed more repairs than they were worth. They were paying the $200 per vehicle.

Then, they'd drive, or push them at slow speeds into low-angle collisions in parking lots. Just enough to scrape up a body panel or two.

Then they'd take pictures, and/or report the vehicles as "self-assessed write-off" to get it branded as a salvage, same as insurance write-offs without any insurance hit.

They'd sell these POS, mechanically-unsound $200 cars to the desperate greedy autobody shops for $2000, who thought they were ripping the gullible consumer off by offering them $2000 for their $5000 car with what they identified were "just some scratches" in the pictures, but were actually getting a $200 car that they'd waste time diagnosing and eventually realize wasn't worth repairing. But after getting burned on that, well now they *really* need to lowball the next guy.

They did this to dozens/hundreds of cars and single-handedly, eventually ruined the market for this after basically every bodyshop in town bought their 3rd or 4th surprise lemon in a row from them or their friends when they thought they were pulling a good scam.

Sometimes they'd even sell both vehicles in the collision to the same shop, super convincing that that was the only reason those two vehicles were written off.

After a while they started doing better inspections, by which point consumers would figure out what their "written off" cars were worth.

[PacEmaker]

I have no idea if the car was thrashed or even if it was actually stolen or someone tried to steal stuff out of it.

Sounds like you got scammed. You went into it expecting typical theft-related damage, instead you had considerable non-theft-related damage.

There's no evidence this was a scam, there's plenty of evidence this vehicle was worked on extensively to get it going including replacement parts. The workshop believed it had a good transmission. Interesting story, but this is not a thread to speculate whether I was scammed or not.

I'd appreciate sticking to the original question. If anyone can help with stator specifications I'd appreciate it, either factory specs or measuring a good example.