Ford Ranger Inverter board Support Thread

[johu]

On the previous test day Regen was causing BMS to shut down main contact while attempting to drive with full battery. For this test day Regen was disabled by setting Idcmin (maximum output current) from -5000 to 0.

It's more straight forward to set brkmax=brknompedal=0 to disable regen.

[joromy]

Edit:
Not very relevant any more, use this: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=186&p=16373#p16373
Changed the pwmfrq back to 8.8kHz

I spent some hours tuning on level ground yesterday. With boost at 5000 (or higher), ampmin at 20, and fslip at 1.3 the truck starts, stops and cruises at low speeds smoothly while feathering the throttle slowly. However, at that boost level if I press the throttle quickly from stop or at slow speeds the motor lurches violently and is a bit scary

Did some test today, with some unconventional settings, and I got the best/smoothest drive I had so far.
Wanted to test with 4.4kHz, because Eric Tischer told me motor is more controllable at lower PWM freq.
Edit: Did some more testing, and small adjustment.

boost 4000
fweak 157
udcnom 250V (my battery is nom:300V)
fslipmin 2
fslipmax 4
fmin 1
fmax 380
pwmfrq 4.4kHz
deadtime 195 (4uS)
throtramp 1
ampmin 13

brknompedal 0
brkmax 0

Rest of the setting are default or standard Ranger settings.
Just remember pwmpol ACTLOW on Ranger!!!!

Changed the pwmfrq back to 8.8kHz and got wery weak start, no torque.
Will probably be possible to get same behavior with 8.8kHz, but need change all settings again.
This is just a experiment, so it will probably be best to stick with 8.8kHz, since the original TIM is using 8kHz.

[riii]

The last set of parameters I tried based on Arber333's instructions were beginning to work fairly well before I had a precharge relay issue. I had boost at 7000, fweak at 210, fslipmin at 3, and flsipmax at 6.2. Freeway performance and uphill torque was noticeably better. I tried the last set of parameters Joromy suggested and those were working well until I stalled on a hill blocking traffic, perhaps because fweak was set too low. Now it looks like I have to focus on building a shop in my backyard to be able to drop the battery to inspect the contactor box so it may be a while until I can get back to inverter tuning on the road.
The jitters were mostly gone yet take off was still a bit of an abrupt start. Also, to prevent roll back on hills since people like to stop inches behind the back bumper at stop signs I set automation to 200 rpm's after break is released.
Udcnom 288V
Pwmfrq 8.8

[joromy]

precharge relay issue.

I have been thinking about your precharge relay/resistor issue.
Have you done this:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=186&start=40#p6938

If not the IAA module could command the power steering and DC/DC to start and draw power before the HW aux relay has closed.
This will burn the precharge resistor after a while. (I burned mine this way)
This happens because the IAA module has almost immediate startup, much faster than the BMS!!

Now I start (ign. in) the IAA with the BMS relay output, and the IAA is closing the HV aux relay.

Have a look at the connections in Ranger_setup_new_8 - Schematic.pdf here:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=186#p1869

I have done mods internal in the IAA module, then I don't have to route new outside wires.
I use pin 26 as the "new" IAA enable, and cut the outside wire from ignition pin 97. Also cut the "cut trace 26" and put a wire from "42 aux relay control" back to the "26 aux relay status" (this is so the IAA knows that the aux relay has closed)
NB! you don't need the diode at pin 26.

[joromy]

Looks like the Ford Ranger section in the Wiki is lost.
Will try to find my notes and tables, and put it in the first post in this tread again.

Had the updated pin table there, I hope I can find the latest one.

Sorry about this!

[mdrobnak]

It was moved, but everything is there:
https://openinverter.org/wiki/OEM_Repurposing

-Matt

[joromy]

Nice.
There is no link anymore, not for the Tesla either.
Should I make that?
Don't want to change something if you already are on it.

[mdrobnak]

There is. On the main page it's under the 'use an existing power section' - that's a link. I made it clearer.

[joromy]

Do your self a favor.
Next time you have the inverter out or before you mount it, do this:
Drill a small hole for a cable and connect to the board, this way you only need to open the bottom lid to get to the programming port, if update from wifi fails.
Put a corrugated sleeve on the cable for HV isolation, and a suitable grommet in the hole.

Programmer:
https://www.digikey.no/product-detail/e ... ND/2214535

[joromy]

Error wrong post, did reply instead of edit

[OEMEV]

I'm interested in one inverter board (for now) and would like to buy. From your Sep of 2019 post, do you have any update on the first 5 boards? Please let us know how well it did. Also, from the purchase page, it appears to be a completed board. I'm sure there will be DTCs and the wrench light will be on. It would be helpful to know what to expect, such as vehicle drivability issues (if any) once the TIM board is replaced. I see the 2 schematic diagrams and connection table, do you have other support documents?

[joromy]

Hi and welcome! Very happy to have another Ranger owner here, regardless if you buy a TIM board or not.

The only change from first version board is chassis GND is moved to a more suitable place. (the internal connector was in the way, on the first ver.)
The board is complete, but you need to reuse the connectors. But this is far from a plug and play solution!

All documentation is here in the Ranger tread. But if there is something you think I should include, please let me know.
There was a Wiki page, but it's removed/moved several times, so will try to keep docs/info in the first post.

What kind of battery BMS are you thinking to use?
If you choose Simp BMS and tesla batteri, then it will be easier for me to support you, because I have the same setup myself.
The instrument cluster, is a different story, you can do it the "easy" way only connect BMS fault output to instument lamp.
Or the complicated way:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=433

The Ranger guys that have rebuild their inverter (TIM) are a small group, compared to Tesla and Leaf inverter.
Remember the board is based on the openinverter, so the functionality is the same.

[johu]

The original pages are still there, they are now listed here: https://openinverter.org/wiki/OEM_Repurposing

[joromy]

It's just no link to it when you go to the wiki.
So you have to know the exact address
I could fix it, but I don't want to mess up the ongoing cleanup/reorganizing.
I also accept that the Ford Ranger openinverter is not the most popular thing here

[mdrobnak]

It's just no link to it when you go to the wiki.
So you have to know the exact address
I could fix it, but I don't want to mess up the ongoing cleanup/reorganizing.
I also accept that the Ford Ranger openinverter is not the most popular thing here

I think the person that put "all control boards" meant to link that to OEM_Repurposing..so I just did that. Definitely not trying to make this disappear.

-Matt

[OEMEV]

Thanks for posting the link to the Wiki page which consolidates all available data.

I do not know which battery pack and BMS to consider at this time. Highest capacity at best value ($) should be the default answer, but ease of repackaging donor batteries into the Ranger coffin is certainly a consideration as well. To answer to your question, I will most likely make changes a step at a time. If I were to replace only the TIM for now, what is to be expected? Will the rest of the vehicle work albeit with flashing lights and DTCs, perhaps? The first step (and most arduous) in the TIM replacement appears to be the removal of the connector so I'll get started on it.

If I'm starting off with the wrong step however, I'd appreciate a heads up.

Should the IAA or the BCM be the first step in the Ranger upgrade project?

[joromy]

I do not know which battery pack and BMS to consider at this time. Highest capacity at best value ($) should be the default answer, but ease of repackaging donor batteries into the Ranger coffin is certainly a consideration as well.

There is plenty of room in the coffin, off course depending on how many kWh you want to put in.
The Tesla 3 batteries will NOT fit.

If I were to replace only the TIM for now, what is to be expected? Will the rest of the vehicle work albeit with flashing lights and DTCs, perhaps?

Not sure about that, but maybe you could get away with it, the openinverter can drive happy if it can precharge and close the main contactor.

If I'm starting off with the wrong step however, I'd appreciate a heads up.

I started with a tiny 3phase motor on the bench and about 30V PSU. Then you can use your truck. (if it's drive able now?)

Should the IAA or the BCM be the first step in the Ranger upgrade project?

Test with a 3phase motor on the bench, get batteries...... Then the fun starts

[OEMEV]

About my previous post - "The first step (and most arduous) in the TIM replacement appears to be the removal of the connector so I'll get started on it."

I've circumvented this task and bought a new connector. If anyone's interested, cost is $168 + shipping.

By using new connectors, we can save the original TIM logic board for Ranger EV owners who may not want to hack into the TIM.

[joromy]

Great, it's good to know about that option.
A expensive connector, but nice to have the original TIM intact. (I will never miss it )

[joromy]

My best parameter setup so far.
Credit to arber333 for all info/tips on ACIM settings!

Edit: 2020 09.29
Removed one zero from boost.

Gives smooth start, and about original torque.
If you want higher speed than 100km/h increase fmax. (380hz is 120km/h)

Code: Select all

boost		4200
fweak		158
fconst		180
udcnom		300
fslipmin	2.5
fslipmax	5
fslipconstmax	5
polepairs	2
respolepairs	1
encflt	
encmode		1
fmin		0.09
fmax		300
numimp		64
dirchrpm	100
dirmode		1
syncofs		0
snsm		3
	
pwmfrq		1
pwmpol		1
deadtime	135
ocurlim		1000
minpulse	1000
il1gain		4.84
il2gain		4.84
udcgain		10.25
udcofs		0
udclim		500
snshs		0
	
bmslimhigh	50
bmslimlow	-1
udcmin		250
udcmax		400
iacmax		1000
idcmax		1000
idcmin		-1000
throtmax	100
throtmin	-100
ifltrise	10
ifltfall	3
	
chargemode	0
chargecur	0
chargekp	80
chargeflt	8
chargemax	90
	
potmin		810
potmax		3500
pot2min		420
pot2max		4095
potmode		0
throtramp	50
throtramprpm	20000
ampmin		2
slipstart	50
	
brknompedal	-50
brkpedalramp	100
brknom		30
brkmax		-30
brkrampstr	10
brkout		-50
	
idlespeed	350
idlethrotlim	35
idlemode	1
speedkp		0.21
speedflt	5
cruisemode	1
	
udcsw		270
udcswbuck	540
tripmode	1
	
pwmfunc		3
pwmgain		73964
pwmofs		0
speedgain	
	
canspeed	1
canperiod	0
	
fslipspnt	0
ampnom		0

[ajbessinger]

About my previous post - "The first step (and most arduous) in the TIM replacement appears to be the removal of the connector so I'll get started on it."

I've circumvented this task and bought a new connector. If anyone's interested, cost is $168 + shipping.

By using new connectors, we can save the original TIM logic board for Ranger EV owners who may not want to hack into the TIM.

Where did you find the connector at? I'd like to try and go that route instead of potentially destroying my old board "just in case"

[arber333]

"Credit to arber333 for all info/tips on ACIM settings!"

Thank you

boost 42000

That is a big boost!!! are you sure you are ok at highway speeds?

[OEMEV]

I know someone at Ford who contacted the tier 1 supplier

When you're ready to move forward, PM me for my Paypal address.

Lead time was at least a week, it may be 2 weeks now with ongoing lockdown

[joromy]

"Credit to arber333 for all info/tips on ACIM settings!"

Thank you

boost 42000

That is a big boost!!! are you sure you are ok at highway speeds?

One zero to much (fixed)
Thank you, at least someone is reading my posts

[riii]

Hi joromy,

It's been a long time old friend. It's also exciting to see you have new fine-tuned parameters that I am anxious to try out.

When I finally got around to opening my contactor box about a month ago I found a blown up pre-charge resistor. The issue you mentioned here
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=186&start=25#p6725
and here
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=186&start=25#p6938
and more recently here
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=186&start=50#p11207

in which I believe this:

"IAA module could command the power steering and DC/DC to start and draw power before the HW aux relay has closed.
This will burn the precharge resistor after a while. (I burned mine this way)
This happens because the IAA module has almost immediate startup, much faster than the BMS!!"

is what happened to my precharge resistor.

We may have never made the IAA mod you suggested but I will do so this time around before installing a another OEM contactor box to replace the blown up one.

Where are all the wires routed through the middle hole in the IAA board in this photo terminated? On the connector pins then routing back your BMS?