I think we have to be careful not to overdo it. CRC and counter make it more difficult to integrate the motor into a system. A timeout for CAN signals and the possibility to stop the PWM output with the RND switch would be enough for me. If everything goes wrong, the HV contactors are disconnected b...

I think I found the perfect part. It's also from bender. Especially for EVs. In Germany it costs 280€

VAG DBK heater Pin1 = 12V, Pin2 = GND, Pin4 = LIN VAG AC Kompressor Pin2 = LIN, Pin5 = GND, Pin8 = 12V (same connector, different pins) Eberspächer heater Pin 1 = Red/White, Pin 2 = Brown, Pin 4 = Violet/Yellow, (Pin 5 = Green/Violet, Pin 7 = Black/Green) Pin2 = Brown = GND -> OK Pin1 = Red/White = ...

Doesn't the M3 PCS or your BMS do an isolation check and output it over CAN. Then you could have an arduino or similar turn on a lamp. To prove the function, a test switch with xxxkOhm from a HV line to the vehicle ground could be installed.

I think the live parameters are the problem. Temperature is easy. I don't know what happens when the LDU reports a stopped engine with 0 amps and the car is still moving quickly. Maybe you can test that by simply removing the drive shafts and towing the car

What about that? Unfortunately it needs 24V supply, so it needs a voltage doubler to use it in the car.

As I understand it, the OI board should be built into the LDU and control the motor. The original LDU board mounted outside the drive unit and connected to the car to make the rest of the car happy.

How about taking an NCV8401, it has 15A at 3V

That sounds like a wrong wired encoder. Have you tried swapping the A and B signals?

Can you add an analog port like this? In the LIM it is used to measure the DC voltage at the connector. So my board or that of larsrengersen could be used as an alternative to your Dieter.

I hope you have a separate 12V supply for the logic board and not the 12V tapped from one of the two batteries!

I would like to look at the layout, but my kicad won't open these files. Am I doing something wrong?

As I understand, it means that you have to unscrew the small cover in the middle at the bottom of the LDU and then measure the individual phases to the battery inputs.

That is a big chip to drive a locking actuator. Having a peak of 3A should be more then plenty. https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-gb/products/locking-ev-t2m3s-e-lock12v-1624129 https://www.midaevse.com/electromagnetic-lock-for-electric-vehicle-power-type-2-ev-charging-socket-actuator-wallbox-produc...

Installed in the LIM

the high side driver for the LEDs is a VNQ5E250AJ-E
HV contactor driver negative BSP603S2L
HV contactor driver positiv BSP613P
driver for Locking Actuator L9951XP

this is the link to the wiki:
https://openinverter.org/wiki/BMW_I3_Fa ... LIM_Module.

if you need anything else, get in touch. I have one open on my desk and can also identify components if necessary.

The BMW LIM could serve as a template for the range of functions. This would make it easier for many (including me) to upgrade from LIM to OI modem later. RGB diode outputs, 2x contactor, control and feedback of the locking actuator, CAN interface, evaluation of CP and PP, switchable resistors for C...

how about a spot welder like this one? Could also solve the BMS cable problem with the M3 modules.https://www.ebay.de/itm/354684344125?ha ... Sw9mVkJVss

8Devices does the same thing with the two 3.3V regulators on their WhiteBeet

This module is my favourite, but regardless of that, there is a suggestion for the power supply and the transformer in the documentation.

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i did the same thing but it looks like the control message format for my compressor is a little bit diffrent so no change in the feedback message. i will take another try at it or i will go tesla can controlled compressor. thank you for your help on the heater it worked as you mentioned. Have you t...

it is certainly not a problem to press the brake to establish "Fahrbereitschaft"(ready to drive) as it is officially called in Germany, but with my manual gearbox cars i can always start the engine without pressing anything and with the automatic cars the "P" or "N" pos...

The Eberspächer heater is installed in my e-Golf. The LV plug is 8 pin. Pin 1 = Red/White, Pin 2 = Brown, Pin 4 = Violet/Yellow, Pin 5 = Green/Violet, Pin 7 = Black/Green. The rest is unoccupied.

The connector appears to be the same as the DBK, but the pinout is definitely different.

i tried all the addresses one after the other to find the control address and noticed a change in the response to the correct one.