lukes wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2023 3:35 am Does anyone have drawings for the battery cable standoffs for use with battery_connector_v2?

Can't find that one on the github. Can you post a link to which one you mean?

Not cooling them at all for driving. Might do if I add fast charging. But I've seen very little temperature change under load (Prius Gen 3 inverter into Outlander rear motor). Unless you're going to be sucking big current, I don't think it's something you need to worry about. Save the weight!

If anyone in the UK is planning to try to get the connectors JB listed above, you will need to find a reg number for someone else's car and take it to the dealer. The one I dealt with today told me he couldn't find the parts without it (and was bloody rude too), in spite of having quoted me prices f...

On the engine management light, mine sailed through MOT with that lit. Tester told me it was irrelevant. I also haven't solved the ABS/ASC light issue - if you gave a can capture of the messages being spammed to the dash, that would be very welcome.

Just absurd.

Labour are tweeting a lot about their plans for Green Manufacturing and EVs. I've responded a few times and sent information to (non-Labour) people who asked questions, but no responses yet.

Welcome back! Good to see this moving again.

Hi, Can you let me know how you connected your busbars to the Battery module + and - ? Sam Assume you're using the supplied connectors from the pack for the inter-module connections? For connecting the whole pack up, I've done it two ways: 1: Cut up the connections from the pack to the external con...

Oh amazing! Thank you.

I've done some updates to the 'cheap' stub here: https://openinverter.org/wiki/I_want_a_ ... conversion

More input welcome.

Will do the power one when I get a chance.

Can't help you on pole pairs, but on the shaking - is it perhaps the phases that need swapping around? This threw me once. Thought it was the resolver and actually it was the phase connections.

I'm up for this. Coming from Manchester. I have a lot of work to do (rebuild the car, second pack, chademo) to get anywhere near Milton Keynes, let alone Bristol/Bournemouth! But have a convenient stopping point in the Midlands that can take a couple of cars (@Bigpie).

Working on the cosmetics (at last). Lots of progress on the body swap. Headlights half fitted. Now designing the rear end layout.

Ha! Glad to be of service.

Re-upping this post as I just found out we're going to lose our unit early next year. Total PITA and means I'm (again) on the lookout for people who may want to share a unit in Manchester. PM me if you want to join the hunt. Currently paying about £250/month each for about 600-700sqft each of usable...

I know most of us in the UK are with Adrian Flux and they're pretty decent. But it made me nervous not having any options and competition in the market has to be a good thing. Which is why I've been speaking to Lancaster Insurance and they are now up for insuring DIY EVs. I can't guarantee they will...

Congratulations!

Brilliant. Looking good! Be really interesting to compare performance of the Outlander inverter side by side with the Gen 3 once I've got it fully tuned and back on the road.

Not sure yet as I've not withdrawn the rotor. If I get it fixed, I'll get both replaced though.

If I added an extra one it would probably be a thrust bearing to ensure this doesn't happen again. If I'm right about the cause though, no need to get one CNCd.

I'm not convinced actually that it wasn't already damaged. But basically, undo all the bolts before you start to tap the backplate off with a soft-faced hammer. There's one that retains the resolver rotor on the end of the shaft and if you take that off it should come away in one piece. I might yet ...

Pulled it apart today - enough to find the bearings were toast. I think I know what went wrong now. Longitudinal load on the motor shaft (my fault - coupler fractionally too long) put stress on bearings and they overheated and melted the plastic. Might be fixable but I don't know how much damage was...

Opened it up and it's pretty obvious - total bearing failure. Not pulled the rotor out to see if there was any damage from contact between that and the stator yet. Looks like it overheated, which would be consistent with longitudinal pressure on the shaft.

Thanks Arber. Interesting. I don't think it has been subject to any moisture/solvents but obviously it's from a scrapyard so who knows. It's mounted on the bottom of a 4x4 (albeit one that's rarely used beyond the school run) in its normal application so seems unlikely damage would come that way. Wo...

That would be a nice easy fix. Fingers crossed! But I suspect it might be more serious. We shall see.

Thought you might be interested to know in this thread that I seem to have destroyed an Outlander rear motor. Not sure of the cause yet, but as you can see in latest vid, it ain't spinning any more. Current suggestions of cause (I have no idea yet): - Bearing failure due to poor alignment - Overheat...

Wow that's an interesting idea. I like it (if I understand it - I think I do!)

Latest video here though I don't shed too much light, other than 'it's knackered'.