openinverter forum

Hello comrades. Please tell me where on the inverter U V W? In my photo 1 2 3.
I cannot spin the motor and determine the sine cosine of the resolver.
In sine mode, it spins, but in foc it just barely twitches and immediately the light is on. I tried all pairs of resolver. Motor - MG1 from Prius11.
Battery 110V via light bulb (40w 220v)
Another question - is it normal that the angle goes through two cycles from 0 to 360 on the chart in one rotation of the motor? (I tried different combinations of pairs of fields, I was not able to match the cycle of the motor and resolver.)

Thank you,
with respect
Leonid.

While waiting for my logic board to arrive I thought I would do the resistor change on the DC/DC board but... in the Prius tutorial video they are labelled as R623/5/7/and 9. My Yaris inverter (G9200-2010) doesn’t seem to have an R623! Should I be looking for a different resistor bank or are there only three? I haven’t tried to look on the other side for the R624\6\8\30 resistors yet.
Chris

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 2:38 pm So... Block IV arrived
And my first question: to make it work with resolver I need to remove R39 and R38? As I remember correct, Damien you said you'll make a jumper for switching between encoder/resolver?

Hi. Did you find it out?

Ctwidle wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 6:27 am While waiting for my logic board to arrive I thought I would do the resistor change on the DC/DC board but... in the Prius tutorial video they are labelled as R623/5/7/and 9. My Yaris inverter (G9200-2010) doesn’t seem to have an R623! Should I be looking for a different resistor bank or are there only three? I haven’t tried to look on the other side for the R624\6\8\30 resistors yet.
Chris

There is the Yaris DC hack, but it's quite difficult to figure out exactly resistors, capacitors, and their places and specs.

Mouse did a great job with the reverse engineering but I still haven’t taken my board out to see if the fourth resistor in the first string is actually just located on the other side as I am still trying to locate some suitable caps or it won’t be worth the effort. The only ones available locally are physically too big.
Plenty of other work to do in the mean time as the beetle bodywork is still only half assembled.
C

Does anybody get the Block IV to work well? How the MG1 curSens connector notch should be placed? As marked on the board or rotated?

I may have missed it somewhere, but is one of these the correct TE Ampseal connector for the daughterboard?

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-776230-1.html

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-776230-5.html

Thanks!

jalovick wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 5:35 pm I may have missed it somewhere, but is one of these the correct TE Ampseal connector for the daughterboard?

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-776230-1.html

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-776230-5.html

Thanks!

Both of those will work. They are just keyed different meaning you need the female with the same colour i.e. same last digit in part nr.

chuuux wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:03 am Does anybody get the Block IV to work well? How the MG1 curSens connector notch should be placed? As marked on the board or rotated?

I have not run the Block IV board my self but starting with Damiens github for the block IV, linked below, and then looking in the schematics and PCB for the MG1 current sensor connector, CONN 3, BM08B-CPTK-1A-TB.
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Yaris- ... are/Block4 Then in the connector datasheet:
https://www.mouser.se/datasheet/2/564/eCPT-334507.pdf

bexander wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:20 pm Both of those will work. They are just keyed different meaning you need the female with the same colour i.e. same last digit in part nr.

I found this RS parts list after asking, and it provides a good summary in the 35 pin part section.

https://docs.rs-online.com/1769/A700000006606219.pdf

Basically, there are 4 versions or each socket, tin, gold, 90 degree and 180 degree, and there are 5 key types, A-E, or parts ending in 1-5. As you say, as long as the keys match.

Jamie

chuuux wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 8:34 pm Hi. Did you find it out?

Hi. At the moment I'm tooooo busy at job. No time to visit forum. Damien answered he forgot jumpers, so removing resistor is the way to switch to resolver. I haven't time to work with the board at the moment as well.

bexander wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:35 pm

chuuux wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:03 am Does anybody get the Block IV to work well? How the MG1 curSens connector notch should be placed? As marked on the board or rotated?

I have not run the Block IV board my self but starting with Damiens github for the block IV, linked below, and then looking in the schematics and PCB for the MG1 current sensor connector, CONN 3, BM08B-CPTK-1A-TB.
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Yaris- ... are/Block4

image_2021-07-23_222911.png

image_2021-07-23_222957.png

image_2021-07-23_223156.png

Then in the connector datasheet:
https://www.mouser.se/datasheet/2/564/eCPT-334507.pdf

image_2021-07-23_223406.png

Thanks for reply. I've checked the connector. It's ok.
I try to solve the issue. When I'm connecting the Wemos as the altermative wi-fi module (without Olimex) logic board supply current increase over 1A and the Wemos becomes increadibly hot quickly but works.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 26, 2021 6:19 pm

chuuux wrote: ↑Sun Jul 18, 2021 8:34 pm Hi. Did you find it out?

Hi. At the moment I'm tooooo busy at job. No time to visit forum. Damien answered he forgot jumpers, so removing resistor is the way to switch to resolver. I haven't time to work with the board at the moment as well.

Thanks for reply.
Unsoldered them.

Anybodody know why the web-interface doesn't show any parameters from the inverter? It looks empty.
I've checked all the voltages on the logic board, flashed the board (led is blinking), flashed the Olimex.
Wi-fi is connecting only in Static IP mode, phone and PC can't get the IP-address in DHCP mode.
What should I check?

Most likely, the file system is not flashed into the wi-fi module. Or there is no connection with the Stm32 processor.
Step by Step using Arduino IDE

Add https://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/pack ... index.json into Additional Board
Go to Boards -> Board Manager and install ESP8266
Extract the esp8266-web-interface software to your Arduino projects directory
Create a new folder named data
Move all files except FSBrowser.ino to the data folder.
Choose Olimex MOD-WIFI-ESP8266 as the board
Upload the code using the Arduino IDE
Use 'ESP8266 Sketch Data Upload' from the Tools menu, this will upload the files in the data directory to the ESP8266.
My phone number is + 79О244426ОО. Write to WhatsApp to help.

Are you sure Yaris and Auris have exactly the same inverters?
Yaris builds what I have seen on cheaper older gen 2 Hsd technology with lower power while Auris is based on gen 3 Hsd technology with the same driveline and power as in Prius gen 3 but Prius is "made in Japan" and Auris parts (like Yaris) are " made in Europe ".

Anyone got any LM2776DVBR SOT23-6 -5v pumps spare ?

The smoke came out of mine and they all seem to be in a container somewhere off china due 2022 ! . Happy to pay silly money for a couple to get going again on the controloler for this build https://www.openinverter.org/forum/view ... 854#p31854

Thanks
John

thornogson wrote: ↑Mon Oct 04, 2021 3:24 pm Anyone got any LM2776DVBR SOT23-6 -5v pumps spare ?

The smoke came out of mine and they all seem to be in a container somewhere off china due 2022 ! . Happy to pay silly money for a couple to get going again on the controloler for this build https://www.openinverter.org/forum/view ... 854#p31854

Thanks
John

This?

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/114316846361?ha ... Sw5iJgN87g

Hi, I have the yaris inverter logic board block IV and am fumbling my way through this....

for anyone else new to this. The v2 block IV yaris inverter logic board resistors do not need changing as in the wiki and the MG2 Current Sensor connector (labelled 7 on the board) does not need to be switched around as earlier versions did (unless I am misreading the information in the forum)

I would update the wiki with this information but I dont seem to be able to login to make changes for some reason.

chrskly wrote: ↑Sat Oct 09, 2021 5:13 pm

thornogson wrote: ↑Mon Oct 04, 2021 3:24 pm Anyone got any LM2776DVBR SOT23-6 -5v pumps spare ?

The smoke came out of mine and they all seem to be in a container somewhere off china due 2022 ! . Happy to pay silly money for a couple to get going again on the controloler for this build https://www.openinverter.org/forum/view ... 854#p31854

Thanks
John

This?

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/114316846361?ha ... Sw5iJgN87g

Thanks Christian , i ordered some of these but they are out of stock , I think I have a solution now

Приветствую Всех. Не нашёл ответа на вопрос о максимальном напряжении на инвертор, 300в максимальное из за конденсатора. Можно ли поменять только конденсатор на 600в и все?

Please translate to english

Greetings to all. I did not find an answer to the question about the maximum voltage for the inverter, 300V maximum due to the capacitor. Is it possible to change only a 600v capacitor and that's it?

I am interested in the operation of the inverter at voltages up to 390V, is it possible

2strannik wrote: ↑Wed Dec 15, 2021 2:52 am I am interested in the operation of the inverter at voltages up to 390V, is it possible

If you apply that to the high side, it will work. If you want to boost it a little (up to 520V, the rated high side voltage), connect your source between low side and high side, but then the current will be limited by the boost converter ratings, about 100A.

Thank you

This looks great as a future option for me. I like that it will work with 144v. Has anyone used this with the actual Prius C electric motor in a conversion and made a thread ?