openinverter forum

Great thank you

Hi all. I am having trouble with a couple of CAN streams please will someone shed some light
I have had temp and motor temp perfect
The first is motor RPM
I am getting 0-250ish then it starts again
I have it on big endian, it is signed 16 bits gain 1

The other is the ISA shunt. I am desperate to see the current draw. At the moment I am not seeing anything useable.

Many thanks

nilsvr wrote: ↑Sat Sep 24, 2022 5:54 pm Does the LDU (or SDU) have a problem with HV connected while no 12V is supplied?

It depends if you are some how implementing precharge separate from the drive unit. If you're just applying full HV without precharge then yes, that would be a problem. Damien's LDU board handles precharge, but needs 12V to do that.

Clanky wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 6:57 am
The other is the ISA shunt. I am desperate to see the current draw. At the moment I am not seeing anything useable.

Many thanks

Did you initialize the ISA shunt?

Yes shunt is initialised, do you happen to have the CAN details as i am not 100% I’ve got it right.

When setting up the shunt for CHAdeMO, the snip below is my most recent initialization CAN messages. NOTE: I have not yet been able to confirm that the signs are all set correctly for CHAdeMO, but I know it is putting out CAN data correctly.

So here's maybe a new question since I couldn't find the answer to or my search and speed reading skills are pretty terrible. I have a Tesla sport motor setup that can pull well over 1000 amps but my battery pack is rated at 900amps max. What settings in the parameters can I use to limit what the inverter can pull from the pack or is that even possible?

idclim

Roadstercycle wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 2:58 pm So here's maybe a new question since I couldn't find the answer to or my search and speed reading skills are pretty terrible. I have a Tesla sport motor setup that can pull well over 1000 amps but my battery pack is rated at 900amps max. What settings in the parameters can I use to limit what the inverter can pull from the pack or is that even possible?

The short answer is idclim. However right now the implementation of idclim is not smooth at all. You can definitely try it, but likely you will feel the power cut suddenly when you hit the limit, and IMO this is not an acceptable driving experience.

My batteries are rated at 450A max (somewhat less than the SDUs 600A max), so I have the same problem. I found the better way to approach this is to measure DC current and increase fweak until you no longer exceed the limit during full throttle acceleration. You will get a bit less torque overall, but things will be much smoother.

Johannes talks about this problem here: viewtopic.php?p=44273#p44273 and the rest of that thread is me tuning the SDU (not LDU, but same concept) to avoid the problem. Perhaps Johannes will implement this fix and you could test it.

Hi Guys
Has anyone had issues with high inverter heat sink temperatures? I haven’t pushed mine hard yet and I am seeing 80deg C. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Clanky wrote: ↑Tue Oct 11, 2022 8:58 pm Hi Guys
Has anyone had issues with high inverter heat sink temperatures? I haven’t pushed mine hard yet and I am seeing 80deg C. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Are you sure your cooling is working properly? The simple answer is that you should only see these temps if you push it hard or if you're not getting enough coolant through.

Hi, I'm working on a project and I'm using a Tesla LDU motor. I've connected it according to the diagram but it doesn't turn. I've noticed that pin 6 of the 23 connector doesn't get the negative to activate the main contactor and the voltage that comes out for the throttle is 3V and not 5V. could you guide me to start the engine.

bmwx5projet wrote: ↑Fri Oct 21, 2022 2:39 am ...could you guide me to start the engine.

start by showing your settings file. and tell me with what battery voltage you are trying to use

Greetings, the test voltage is 168V.

bmwx5projet wrote: ↑Fri Oct 21, 2022 10:13 pm Greetings, the test voltage is 168V.

if you use the default settings, it is very likely that the low voltage threshold has not been exceeded, and therefore the contactor does not turn on. or change the settings in two places (minimum dc and dc of contactor activation) or add a test voltage up to 320 volts

Do you have access to the wifi module? 3V on throttle output sounds like a 12V supply issue

The point is that I want to first test that it works according to the instructions, it is suggested from 40 to 100, but I think that with 168 it could work or I have to put a voltage in the range of 40 to 100. What do you say?

johu wrote: ↑Sat Oct 22, 2022 6:04 am Do you have access to the wifi module? 3V on throttle output sounds like a 12V supply issue

yes, I have access to WiFi and the battery has its 12v but 3 come out of the inverter

bmwx5projet wrote: ↑Sat Oct 22, 2022 3:36 pm yes, I have access to WiFi and the battery has its 12v but 3 come out of the inverter

still attach your settings file

But it is that the card is confirmed, just change the parameters that they tell me to do the test. what is that file?

bmwx5projet wrote: ↑Sat Oct 22, 2022 8:14 pm what is that file?

there is a link in the inverter settings browser via Wi-Fi: download the settings file. the browser will save the parameters file to the params.json
here, attach it here

when I get back home I'll do it, I'm away for the weekend, I'll let you know or I'll write to you to help me with this, it's a very nice project but when it comes to this type of technology I'm not that skilled.

I want to turn on a 12v indicator light after the 12v pulse start signal is sent to the controller and the system is ready to go. Suggestions?

eGrandpa wrote: ↑Tue Oct 25, 2022 2:01 pm I want to turn on a 12v indicator light after the 12v pulse start signal is sent to the controller and the system is ready to go. Suggestions?

If you don't mind the effort, you can send a CAN message from the LDU and receive it with a controller, e.g. Arduino. The advantage is that you can get all the information you want from the LDU. For me, the Arduino sits in the dashboard and displays everything that interests me, especially when something goes wrong.

No current plans for CAN. One thought is to leverage pin 6 when it turns on the main contactor coil.