openinverter forum

eGrandpa wrote: ↑Tue Jul 26, 2022 12:55 pm Yes of course. Thx. I suspected that this is all that is necessary. I tested it this morning by just removing power to my Forward / Reverse selector switch. I haven't decided exactly yet, but probably a three position selector switch with indicator lights for Forward, Neutral and Reverse will work best for me.

I'm not sure if self-promotion is allowed here, but I make these shifters that I used with my Tesla swap. It has a nice tactile feel and it retains the oem looks of a manual transmission, I'm not a fan of the knobs or automatic looking shifters so I started making these.
https://skudakrennsport.com/products/6628446634117/

Nice shifter! I did expect a O-ring type groove at the bottom so the leather piece can be fixed (t rap) and then reverse bended back over.

But very nice. My self I just use the original Shifter which is CANBus already.

Hi guys, Any know if a model 3 throttle would work with the LDU Damien board. I'm thinking of swapping my Model 3 drive setup for a LDU and would like to keep the Model 3 pedal if I can. I've run the Damien board in the past with the Model s pedal just wondering if they are the same hall effect setup.

Yes it would work no problem. Just use the throttle calibration procedure on the web interface.

Hi All,

Slightly odd but my drive unit seems to have a cooling pipe that I can't see on other LDU's. It is a small bore (about 4mm OD) stainless pipe that comes out of the top of the coolant outlet (part 90 on the pic) and goes up and into a small hole on top of the ldu. On other ldu's I've seen the hole in the coolant outlet is blanked off and the hole in the top of the ldu isn't drilled.

Does anyone know anything about this? The main reason I ask is that the thin stainless pipe has puled out of the small brass olive that seals the end and I was wondering if it needs replacing or some sealant or something. Then I looked online and can't find it shown on any Tesla part fiches.

Thanks in advance!

Actually, I managed to find a picture on the Tesla Model S wikipedia page that shows the pipe I am on about. You can just about make it out directly above the rear mount in the picture and snaking around towards the inverter side.

So my issue is that the pipe has pulled out of the small brass olive at the coolant outlet end. Should this be soldered or would I need to find a replacement pipe?

Any idea why this has disappeared on later motors?

Thanks

mtrehy wrote: ↑Tue Aug 16, 2022 11:28 pm Actually, I managed to find a picture on the Tesla Model S wikipedia page that shows the pipe I am on about. You can just about make it out directly above the rear mount in the picture and snaking around towards the inverter side.

This video is incredibly detailed and probably has your answer. I think the pipe is explained at 36:40.

HI Charlie,

It's not that pipe. I took some pictures of it:

I have 3 of these motors and none have this line. I think it's to get the air out of the system. Is your motor a very early one, e.g. from 2013? Maybe it wasn't installed later because it wasn't necessary and it cuts costs.

I've never seen that setup either and I've dealt with a lot of LDU setups. I agree it could be a very early unit.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Aug 14, 2022 3:07 pm Yes it would work no problem. Just use the throttle calibration procedure on the web interface.

Thank you Damien.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Thu Oct 31, 2019 7:21 pm Uaux is not implemented on the Tesla boards.

Is this still the case?
I'm guessing yes as I get "16.43" as noted by others.
Probably not terribly high on the priority list, but it would be nice feature for a future board rev

Happily drove my conversion to work and back for the first time today, with a total loss 12v system (no DCDC yet), thus why I went looking for the the 12v measurement.

Stupid question maybe, but whats the difference between pin 11 "Systems Ground (Chassis)" and pin 22 "Systems Ground"
Can I run both to chassies, or should pin 11 go to chassis and pin 22 to minus on 12v battery?

Best regards!

Joxson wrote: ↑Sat Aug 27, 2022 10:10 am Stupid question maybe, but whats the difference between pin 11 "Systems Ground (Chassis)" and pin 22 "Systems Ground"
Can I run both to chassies, or should pin 11 go to chassis and pin 22 to minus on 12v battery?

Best regards!

Ground both (same as neg terminal on battery).

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 1:06 pm Ground both (same as neg terminal on battery).

Thank you, will do!

I'm not sure if this is the proper format to talk about a completed build using an LDU but I am quite proud of the final product. I also want to thank everyone who helped and assisted the build with suggestions on what works and what doesn't.
Thanks again. Take a look at this YouTube video.

canadasconvert wrote: ↑Sat Sep 03, 2022 11:10 pm I'm not sure if this is the proper format to talk about a completed build using an LDU but I am quite proud of the final product. I also want to thank everyone who helped and assisted the build with suggestions on what works and what doesn't.
Thanks again. Take a look at this YouTube video.

That’s excellent progress and certainly deserving of its own thread in the project section. Congrats!

I have been test driving my Boxster Tesla conversion for a couple of week and have noticed oil on the concrete below the Tesla drive unit. The only source would be the gear reducer in the LDU. I don't have any leaks in the casing but I notice it very wet around the output drive shafts. Is any one else having oil leaks here? Is there an oil seal that needs replacing?

You can replace the output seals with the drive unit in situ but you do need to undo the drive shafts and pop the stubs.

There’s a BMW / Febi Bilstein part number for the seals.

Edit: details here (you can find the part locally in Canada) https://www.ebay.de/itm/133413837269

Edit edit: presuming you’ve not overfilled the oil.

Thanks for the feedback. I filled the casing up to the upper fill hole, which was recommended by another LDU enthusiast.
I will source the seals locally.

Hi,
Is there a possibility to enter a „charge mode“? I planned on having my charger behind the contactors controlled by the LDU but then i always would need my keys in ignition for charging.
Worst case I will just run additional cables for the charger to the battery before the contactors but it would be more convenient to have it connected after the contactors since I then can use the Tesla HV junction box for the charger and the Motor.

I'm looking for the throttle calibration procedure. I've been unsuccessful in finding it. Any help? Thx

Does the LDU (or SDU) have a problem with HV connected while no 12V is supplied?

No