Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread

[Jack Bauer]

What are you using to supply 12v power? A power supply or a battery? If a battery is it fully charged? If a power supply it must be capable of at least 5 amps of current. For some reason the logic board is not receiving power. All boards are programmed and tested before dispatch so something must be wrong in the setup you are using.

[Kevin Sharpe]

My connection is correct pin 1 to +12 Dc supply
And 11 to ground.

Why not record a video and publish it so we can all see what you are doing?

[Johaljaswant]

I am using fully charged 12 v car battery.

[xp677]

Got the motor working a couple days ago. Is there a way to implement one pedal driving? Like when you let off the throttle a little bit, regen braking kicks in.

Also, any reccomendations for a precharge relay? Trying to find a cheap one.

By any chance are you looking to put this in an FD RX7? I explored this option myself, and discarded it because the unit was far too large to fit in the rear without some chopping and relocating of the rear end. Would be great to see it done, though.

[Johaljaswant]

I am putting this in Porsche 911SC 1983. It fit nicely. No any cutting and no any extra piece weld to body.

[Jack Bauer]

As suggested some photos or video would greatly help us diagnose your problem.

[Johaljaswant]

Here is video when i do ignition on red led light blink on three board of the inverter facing 23 pins.
I did Also check amps it draw only 3.5amps.
and output voltage at encoder pin 9 is only 1.17 volt instead of 5v
and output voltage at accelerator pin 12 is also 1.17 volt instead of 5v
no any led lights on at logic board.
my input voltage at pin 1 is 13v

[Jack Bauer]

Ok now we're making progress. Under no circumstances should the drive unit draw 3.5amps. The fact the 5v lines are low may indicate a short somewhere.

What I suggest is to remove the logic board from the drive unit and test it on its own on the bench. This will help determine if the problem is with the logic board or drive unit. To do so, remove the logic board completely from the drive unit. Connect a 12v power source to connector CONN17 as shown in the photos. 12v to the pin nearest the edge of the board. Once powered, the leds should illuminate as per the photos and the wifi access point "inverter" will become visible.

[Johaljaswant]

Here is the photo voltage across pin 17 is 12.42v but no any led light on logic board.

[Jack Bauer]

I have contacted you off line to arrange return of the board for investigation and repair.

[Johaljaswant]

The main inductor for power supply was loose on the logic board.
Resolder it working fine now.

Thank you Damien for help.

[JaniK]

Next video from a spinning motor then?

[Johaljaswant]

Try to spin the motor no luck.
Change
UDCSW =0
UDCMIN =0
HV battery voltage 87V fully charged battery voltage for this back is 96V.This is two chevy volt pack 48 v each.
My negative side contactor get heat up that I observed after fail to turn on the motor after disconnect the battery.
But still contactor I can touch with hand. But my 5 amp fuse blow up after two three try .
Now even after disconnect encoder switch and 23 pin switch 5 amp fuse blow when I turn on ignition.
Any suggest

[Johaljaswant]

I am using Tesla contactor,I get to know that these contactor get heated if you just simply apply 12 v ,the coil voltage of these contactor is control by some kind of economizer or circuit by Tesla so it not get heated.
Please let me know is this correct or there is another reason of heating of contactor.
Thanks

[Fierobsessed]

Have had some good test run att 55Volt.
Tested 110Volt and got into a problem. At 7000rpm the DC minus cable fuse blow at 25 amp...motor made a jerk and stoped functioning (DC bus down). One led ( pen pointing at) on the inverter card on the picture lit up.
When I try to restart and set ut to forward the Lasterr flips to TMPHSMAX and Opmode go to Off...
Any idéer was is wrong...?
20190624_223848.jpg

I just had this exact thing happen the other day myself.

I was running the panzer parameters on a working Performance drive unit.
I set the pot1min to 200 to get it so the pedal barely needs to be touched to operate the inverter. My way of keeping it out of regen.
I was running rectified 240VAC (340 VDC) on a 30A breaker into the motor at the time.

The motor seemed to operate in steps, Pressing the accelerator initially it would go up to a specific RPM, and hang there. More accelerator just made the inverter hum louder, but then the RPM would jump up again if pushed further. The steps being abrupt enough to throw the breaker.


Either way, I got the RPM up pretty high, and the whole drive unit bucked pretty hard and has been inoperable since. It starts up ok, but when any accelerator is applied it immediately shuts down, with a TMPHSMAX. I opened the inverter case and found a red light on one phase. Also, the bubbles in the encapsulant that definitely were not there before.

It appears that at least 2 IGBT's blew up. I disassembled the inverter phase (huge pain in the butt) and found since it's a performance unit, it has some pretty gnarly IGBT's. The original that I found AUIRGPS4067D1 is obsolete.

AUIRGPS4070D0 is the new replacement. But since it isn't 100% identical, I would have to replace all 32 in this phase unit at ~$12 USD a piece. It's also very difficult, not sure I'll actually go down that route or try to source a new inverter phase maybe. Anyone got a lead on one?

I'm a bit skittish around this project now though. I don't know why it failed exactly but I doubt it was the amount of incoming power.

[Jack Bauer]

I'd suggest two things here. Using rectified single phase as hv is a bad idea as the dc link caps are not nearly large enough to smooth out the ripple at the sort of stator currents the drive unit runs. You could just remove the two blown parts for now and wind back the current limit just to get up and running.

The effect of not seeing rpm increase as you increase throttle indicates a bad encoder signal. The inverter kept pouring in stator current trying to make the rpm rise but didnt see the encoder signal indicate an rpm increase and so on.

[Roadstercycle]

Just installed the control board and have a couple questions. Should a 120 ohm resister be installed between pins 19 and 20 for the Can bus termination or is it unnecessary? Also is it OK to use a Tesla Model S accelerator peddle?

[Jack Bauer]

No and yes:) The board already has can termination resistors onboard. You can of course use a model s throttle or any other that outputs in the 0-5v range.

[Johaljaswant]

Pre charge relay circuit not working signal problem from pin 3 if I give ground from out side it activate.
And also when my key on start position main contactor activate and when key goes to on position it deactivate immediately.
Please help.

Thanks

[Jack Bauer]

Recommend everyone update to the latest software release here :
https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-sine/releases
For Tesla use : https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-sin ... 2_sine.bin

Also read and try to understand the parameters before powering up :
https://openinverter.org/docs/index.htm ... rs,24.html

A lot of the most common questions have already been answered in the support threads so try the search function first.

[fransoa]

Hi, I'm a new user. Tesla large drive unit with V3 board and software in version 4.57.R-sin. I encounter a surprising phenomenon: When I turn the motor manually the speed value varies surprisingly: By tracing the value on Plot it varies by steps of 41 (41 / 82 / 123 / 164 / ....) always with positive values whatever the direction of rotation . Tesla setting: encmode=AB ; respolepairs=1; numimp=36. The encoder seems to be working properly. If anyone has any explanation I'm very interested. Thanks.

[Roadstercycle]

Hi Everyone, Today I ran my Performance motor on the test bench with the Damien board. I did not update to the latest firmware yet as I had no idea how to do until I got the motor wifi going and was able to read the menu bits and low and behold there it was, so no big deal I'll do it later. A couple of things I discovered was first, jerky motor, fix that in 2 minutes swapping the A and B encoder pins which I did in the main connector, swapped 16 and 10, easy peasy. Second thing was wrong pins for forward and reverse. I found that in my harness 2015 Model S that pin 7 is reverse and pin 8 is forward. Where as in the wiring diagram it is the other way around.

Anyway thought you guys would like to know what I found.

I would still like to know which Gen 2 chargers are working so I can order a board and buy a charger. I submitted that on the Charger support board too.

[Johaljaswant]

I update the latest software.
Without connecting HV battery main contactor close as should be .udcsw=0,udcmin=0
When connecting HV battery 90 V output and udclim=50
Contactor close at start position and immediately open when key comes at on position.
Inverter always silent.
Spot value show LASTERR =overvoltage,Boostcalc=2100,Fweakcalc=270,pot=976,pot2=27
Help please.
Thanks

[Jack Bauer]

@Roadstercycle please do update to the latest firmware asap. Regards chargers I am aware of the problem with some versions and will be releasing information as soon as I have a solution. I'm just one guy with a lot of irons in the fire:)

@Johaljaswant the answer your question is in the error message. udclim is the setting for the MAXIMUM voltage you want the inverter to work. In the example above you have set this at 50 volts then supplied the inverter with 90 volts.

[Johaljaswant]

Thank you Damien

Motor spin but very slowly,I do not know the condition of my battery is it fully charged or not.Battery is chevy volt 2 cell of 48v each
Giving me total 87 v.
Also motor jerking but when I put off encoder connection it start run better.
Please advice.

Thank you so much Damien.