openinverter forum

Zieg wrote: ↑Mon Mar 06, 2023 7:27 pm Does anyone know what info was in those newtis links Damien posted on page 1? They are all dead now.

Would also really like to know what kind of power people are getting from these and how they are cooling them. Thinking about grabbing a 12kwh pack for my Locost build.

Looks like all of the newtis info is now on the wiki here.

No need to cool them.

Well shoot, that makes it easy. Thank you!

Hmm. I guess the other question I should be asking is, what do we think these batteries can reliably deliver in therms of kW output (with or without cooling)? Specifically the 12kWh packs.. Is 140 too much? That'd be a bit over 10c discharge rate.. Has anyone managed that?

The answer is depends.

You can argue in which way you want about anything if you do not have facts.

1.how long?
2.how often?
3.how hot is the battery now?
4.what are the ambient conditions?
5.what it the thermal transfer path/efficiency between cells and outside of battery box?

The key is to use a BMS system to monitor and manage the voltages and temperatures of the batteries and recommend limits to the rest of the vehicle.

Fair enough... I was hoping to hear some real-world experiences and associated conditions. I sometimes see specs of other batteries listed for current draw, but no testing conditions are given. Not sure if there is anything close to a standard beyond a 10 second burst and whatever 'continuous' truly means.

I guess I just want to see if anyone will tell me not to bother trying before I go and buy a pack, because it would never do a 10 second burst of 140kW at 30 degrees C or what have you. I know it depends on cooling and such, but without knowing exactly how my installation would look, even a ballpark figure or a hard 'no' would help, I think. I will for sure be using a BMS though! Already have it sitting in the shop.

Damien is running these and beating on them. There is a project out there using 2 packs reconfigured no cooling to drive a LDU and it has been on the dyno and did not need cooling.

I have been involved with a few conversions but they only pull 70kw, they do not get hot at all.

If you truly want to be sure best to add the ability to cool them or a way to extract the heat.

The thing is you are using the car on track which will be much harder on the batteries than road use or a dyno pull. I'd allow for cooling at the design stage, even if you don't plumb it in at the start.

I've got one of those packs and the standard AC based cooling is a very nicely engineered system. On mine I'm going to convert it to use water cooling when modifying the pack but then wait to see if it's actually needed before plumbing it in.

Ah, sorry, my brain parsed 'locost' as 'low cost' for some reason. Listen to Tom and Pete

chrskly wrote: ↑Wed Mar 08, 2023 6:15 pm Ah, sorry, my brain parsed 'locost' as 'low cost' for some reason. Listen to Tom and Pete

That's exactly where the name came from!

A play on words from Lutus 7 and low cost. Think it was Ron champions how to build a sports car for £250 that it originated from.

Haha, I guess I should have said Lotus 7 replica, that way it's less ambiguous. Been spending too much time on the Locost-specific forums lately.

But yes I would absolutely be planning to cool them. That's one of the advantages of the Pacifica batteries, they come with a cold plate! In the case of the BMW batteries I'd likely be brazing tubes to the opposite side of a 1/4" aluminum plate, or something along those lines.

And as far as being on track, in Autocross the runs are only 70ish seconds around here (and only part of that is on-throttle). Minimum 5 mins between runs, but usually that ends up being over ten mins depending on how many cars show up. I do recall seeing Damien had been beating on a set of these, but I don't recall the kW output or whether he was using the 9kWh or 12kWh pack. Will have to go back and look.

Hi, does someone have expierence with BMW Gen 1 Hybrid packs? What is inside Battery on F30 330e Active Hybrid.

WBR

I got 34 Ah BMW Cell module from hybrid there is 26 pin connector, and I have CSC from I3 can someone confirm is pinout the same ?

Can you tell me, how the polarity of the HV connector is? I asume it is the same connector as for BMW i3. Unfortunatly I can't upload a picture, but it is this one: https://www.hubauer-shop.de/de/autoteil ... 0-high-vo/

Just stumped across this and thought it was very interesting. I have no idea how trustworthy this is, but it appears as though someone has done some nice extensive testing. Keep in mind it's a single cell though, so the current output is probably markedly lower when stacked together in the modules.

https://www.batemo.de/products/batemo-c ... -bmw-530e/

They say it's from a 2019 530e so that should be the 9kwh version. The capacity they list seems to support that too.

Hi, has anyone successfully used these with rapid charging of any sort? Especially without any form of cooling?

Will let you know when I get chademo hooked up, but pretty sure Damien has used them with chademo and no additional cooling

Could this 34Ah battery give a peak current ~750-800 amps? Or at least 600.

180jacob wrote: ↑Wed Mar 31, 2021 7:27 am IMG_20210329_211932.jpg

Sadly this looks like BMW did not fit any fuse/fusible link for cell tab wires near the cells. I hope I'm wrong, am I?

I got teensy 3.2 and connected with can transceiver but always I got the message modul missing. What I made wrong ?

nedim wrote: ↑Thu May 11, 2023 10:40 am I got teensy 3.2 and connected with can transceiver but always I got the message modul missing. What I made wrong ?

You've provided very little info, so, it's very hard to help.

How have you wired up the transceiver to the teensy?
How have you wired up the canbus?
How are you powering the CSCs?
Post some pictures of your setup

Agree with chrskly re. more information needed.

One other thought though - you are connecting to the internal pack CAN bus aren't you, not the one on the packs external connector? I got it wrong the first time and couldn't get a response.

CCS is from i3 year 2019
pin1 +5v
pin 6 gnd
pin 4 can low
pin 5 can high

transciver mpc 2551 (between pins 120 ohm soldered)

teensy pin 3 tx und pin 4 rx

this is how i made it.

nedim wrote: ↑Thu May 11, 2023 2:54 pm transciver mpc 2551 (between pins 120 ohm soldered)

Teensy is a 3.3V micro you need to use a 3.3V transciever. You also probally mean the mcp2551

Also you need cells connected to the CMU for it to work, it is powered from the cells.

Yes your are right, later I figured need to connect all cells. I have also SN65HVD230 transceiver. I have 8S block from X5 and CCS from i3

I connected at first time vcc and gnd but this module is 28v and from i3 is 45v if they are compatible I don't know. I saw that MCU is powered from Cell