openinverter forum

This might be useful:
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Outlander-PHEV

Hello All,

Good to see some more people having luck with these components. I'm still having a bit of trouble actually getting the inverter activating and motor turning despite being pretty confident we're sending all the right messages. I feel like it's a sequencing issue on start-up, I think I can see the inverter going through various states but not getting it in to the drive state. I wonder if there's a particular sequency of applying power, sending CAN messages, RSDN and setting the inverter enable signal then sending torque request?

Have a video here is anyone has any ideas, would be appreciate

For me it was bad connection between inverter and motor ( Resolver)

I metered every pin on the inverter to check against the values listed in the service manual (see attached)

Note that RSDN should be pulled low.

Once that was sorted it all worked very easy, no particular sequence.

ScottS wrote: ↑Thu May 20, 2021 10:32 pm Hello All,

Good to see some more people having luck with these components. I'm still having a bit of trouble actually getting the inverter activating and motor turning despite being pretty confident we're sending all the right messages. I feel like it's a sequencing issue on start-up, I think I can see the inverter going through various states but not getting it in to the drive state. I wonder if there's a particular sequency of applying power, sending CAN messages, RSDN and setting the inverter enable signal then sending torque request?

Have a video here is anyone has any ideas, would be appreciate

PM Sent, try sending 285/271 50ms not 100ms

I’m close to accepting that the Lexus MGR, that fits oh so nicely where the original VW gearbox was between the horns in the back of my superbeetle, will not be up to the task and am looking towards the outlander rear motor as a possible replacement. So, I have a couple of questions for you good people.
The Outlander complete unit is probably too tall to fit where the Lexus did leaving me with two possible solutions. Split the motor/gearbox and have to source a working VW gearbox, coupler adaptor plate etc. An alternative might be to mount the Outlander unit backwards where the original VW ICE. I appreciate that the motor itself doesn’t mind which direction it spins but the Lexus unit had a system whereby the direction of rotation of the gears was used to ‘fling’ oil around the inside for lubrication and cooling. I haven’t been able to find an equivalent of Prof Kelly’s ‘deep dive’ into the Lexus unit for the Mitsubishi so don’t know if this is a potential problem.
Any advice on whether to wait for Damien’s Zombie to be available to run with the Yaris inverter that I already have or to source a native DC/DC and inverter would be appreciated. A local wrecker has all three components from the same 2014 unit for $990, $550 and $550. Would it also be worth trying to get the charge port and cables at the same time?
All comments appreciated,
Chris

Before getting into transmission fabrication. Look out for an I-miev motor and gearbox.
Outlander is indeed tall because of its orientation. But i-miev is lower down and practically the same motor from what i have found.

Like most people using the outlander inverters, you might also have some luck using an I-miev inverter to drive it too.
Worth considering, i cannot comment about the gear rotation but there are a few teardown pictures that might give you a better idea, of the cut of the gear and oil paths.

The DC/DC and charger from an outlander has been reverse engineered that also saves on cost. But all solutions require some programming or fettling with to get running.

Shaft diameters are different, I have a spare imeiv coupler because I thought they were the same

Mouse wrote: ↑Mon May 10, 2021 10:19 pm I've made up an adaptor plate using two clutch plates.
The main explanation + more photos of it are over on the project page but thought I'd mention it here as wellas it's related to the Outlander rear motor.
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1632 Link to project page.


P3250867.JPG
Clutch plates that fit both shafts

P5100029.JPG
Bolted together using a ally spacer.

P5100030.JPG
In place ready for the next stage of the project.

Of course it's going to be months or more before I know it it will be successful under load.

Really nice job. Might copy this approach next time.

Thanks Seanyt for the link, I will be following all the Outlander threads from now on. Unfortunately the I-MiEV appears to have disappeared from the Australian market many years ago but the Outlanders parts seem to be reasonably available.
The Mouse approach looks promising but the gearbox that came with my beetle needs an expensive rebuild and I would rather not spend the money on something that is essentially redundant.
Chris

In the following days i intend to put some of my rev. 4.1 Arduino DUE control boards into production.
viewtopic.php?p=29993#p29993
https://github.com/arber333/Arduino-Due-CAN-shield
I think V4.1 iteration has everything one would need to control Mitsubishi rear motor-inverter combo and charger-DCDC controler. It could also communicate with Chademo on another CAN port read analog throttle position and run relays and even PWM outputs.
I will be making it in counts of 5 + myself. So if there are 5 of you i will order 10 boards...
I can offer bare PCB boards for like 30€ + shipping cost per board.

If anyone interested give me a count so i know how much i can order.

Also if you think of anything i forgot to include now is the time i can still adopt it...

I just got my new Ender 3 S1 setup and wanted to test some small prints.
Have been in the progress of designing ways of reusing the Rear motor and Inverter, the biggest issue is the connectors.

I have now designed a basic connector starting point that use the "dupont" style header connectors.
The attached STL works for both the Vehicle connector and the Motor connector of the rear inverter and thus also on the motor. Will be working on making the print better to eventually include a seal and allow for potting the wires.

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 01, 2022 9:12 pm The attached STL works for both the Vehicle connector and the Motor connector of the rear inverter and thus also on the motor.

Brilliant - I've been planning to do this. Happy to do some iteration on seal etc.

So after a major high point this morning getting my custom driveshafts fitted and everything appearing ok from a clearance perspective - I hit a big snag! Or maybe not?? I tried to push the car thinking it would roll freely however it appears to be kicking back through the gearbox and the motor. I panicked but then considering how the motor without the gearbox turned with a slight stepping motion I’m now wondering if this is normal? Has anyone else with the outlander setup experienced this?

Sounds the same as I get. There is a reasonable resistance when rolling but it should be smooth
I find there is a fair bit of play in the diff, ie some rotation of the shaft before it engages

Mine is definitely not smooth - I can feel steps as I turn the wheels- if I jack the car up and rotate one wheel forward, the opposite wheel turns freely in the opposite direction - through the diff - this makes me think that the driveshafts are fine and it’s actually the “steps” of resistance in the motor that’s causing the steps at the wheels. If I push the car even just a meter you can feel the steps in resistance. Does yours just roll freely in this scenario aot?

I’m actually wondering if this is normal and in order to “tow” or “roll” the vehicle the motor should be energised and the controls in neutral? Would this have an effect?

Turbopete wrote: ↑Thu Mar 03, 2022 2:17 pm Mine is definitely not smooth - I can feel steps as I turn the wheels- if I jack the car up and rotate one wheel forward, the opposite wheel turns freely in the opposite direction - through the diff - this makes me think that the driveshafts are fine and it’s actually the “steps” of resistance in the motor that’s causing the steps at the wheels. If I push the car even just a meter you can feel the steps in resistance. Does yours just roll freely in this scenario aot?

I found out the same with leaf motor when i moved my car with only the motor in and two phase cables were shorted to one another. Would there be anything shorting the phase cables?

Thank you sooooo much!!! I owe you a pint! I would never have even considered that to be an issue - I’ve attached the HV cable to the motor but left it hanging for now and the terminals were touching! What a relief it’s super smooth now!

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 01, 2022 9:12 pm The attached STL works for both the Vehicle connector and the Motor connector of the rear inverter and thus also on the motor. Will be working on making the print better to eventually include a seal and allow for potting the wires.

This answers my question about which wire is which on another thread and my resin printer is in print mode as we speak!

Tada!

Turbopete wrote: ↑Thu Mar 03, 2022 5:03 pm Thank you sooooo much!!! I owe you a pint!

Hah. Ill let you know next time i am in Gatwick maybe we can go to 'ye old 6 bells' for a pint...

Is there an updated version of the plug?

So I'll need 2 on the inverter and one on the motor? Does this connect to the resolver on the motor?


Thanks, Philip

Zapatero wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 5:26 pm Is there an updated version of the plug?

So I'll need 2 on the inverter and one on the motor? Does this connect to the resolver on the motor?


Thanks, Philip

I've been wiped out with the 'rona so not had a chance to play with it yet. Have printed the current one and it's a good, snug fit.

Attached are two updated models.

Now including a perimeter outside the mating parts, this is so you can really only fit it one way and to add alot of grip onto the OE connector.

It slips on tight and if printed right will be a pain to remove so it means it will stay put.

I have modelled it with the TE AmpModu housing 1-87499-1 in mind as this one has the largest wire size range available officially.

Here is a print with the Chinese Dupont housings What it looks like with the correct housings The idea of the extended section is so you can pot the wires and add a boot onto the 3d print. And how they fit on the OE parts