openinverter forum

Well outlander rear motor rating is 60kW. That would be 320V x 185A = 60kW cca. But i would think rear motor can drive 100kW easily...
Now rms rating is another thing... i have seen 600A igbt inside rear inverter. If you have option set inverter phase current to say 500A or 20% below transistor rating. OC limit however you can set more as it is transient value limit.

I calculated nominal 30kW / 300V = 100A (60kW is maximum and 300V nominal battery V). I am thinking of measuring temperature of motor, and if it gets too hot, I'd know what the limit is. But I do not know what temperature sensor they are using,

OutlanderDonor wrote: ↑Wed Nov 09, 2022 1:22 pm I calculated nominal 30kW / 300V = 100A (60kW is maximum and 300V nominal battery V). I am thinking of measuring temperature of motor, and if it gets too hot, I'd know what the limit is. But I do not know what temperature sensor they are using,

No 60kw is battery rating. Motor is rated together with system and that should mean like 30min rating. Really i dont know why you fuss about this so much. Go ahead make your own system and test it. I am sure 100kW would be your max rating and 40kW hour rating. Liquit cooled motors are so much better at this than air cooled.

I am sure someone here already posted N rating of RWD thermistor. Go on and read the threads. I am sure you can contribute to wiki when you find out.

define too large

The OEM Vw Passat packs use 300a!
https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs
The OEMs seemed to have designed the fuse to continuous rating but the contactors to peak rating

Hi All,

Haven't posted for a while due to frustration at not getting my motor to turn, taking rests from working on it for a think etc. But, finally, the day arrived - had to learn how to use timers in the Arduino ...
Anyhow, the motor starts to turn at nearly zero voltage (no more than 20VAC) - I'm using a VARIAC through a bridge rectifier. I start the motor by first starting my Arduinos (one to send; one to receive). I then supply the low voltage side of the inverter via a power supply. I then plug in and start to turn the dial on the VARIAC.

I was told previously that the inverter requires ~200V to activate but thus does not seem to be the case.

Have I broken something or should I not worry?

ScottS wrote: ↑Thu May 20, 2021 10:32 pm Hello All,

Good to see some more people having luck with these components. I'm still having a bit of trouble actually getting the inverter activating and motor turning despite being pretty confident we're sending all the right messages. I feel like it's a sequencing issue on start-up, I think I can see the inverter going through various states but not getting it in to the drive state. I wonder if there's a particular sequency of applying power, sending CAN messages, RSDN and setting the inverter enable signal then sending torque request?

Have a video here is anyone has any ideas, would be appreciate

Scott, did you get your motor to spin? If not I may be able to help.

Mark

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 01, 2022 9:12 pm I just got my new Ender 3 S1 setup and wanted to test some small prints.
Have been in the progress of designing ways of reusing the Rear motor and Inverter, the biggest issue is the connectors.

I have now designed a basic connector starting point that use the "dupont" style header connectors.

IMG-20220301-WA0018.jpeg

IMG-20220301-WA0022.jpeg

IMG-20220301-WA0024.jpeg

The attached STL works for both the Vehicle connector and the Motor connector of the rear inverter and thus also on the motor. Will be working on making the print better to eventually include a seal and allow for potting the wires.

I bought this set of connectors and figured it's not an exakt fit. Am I doing something wrong? The horizontal distance of the pins fits perfect, but the upper and lower rows are further apart on the inverter pins than on the plug

I know the plug in my hand has 2 pound too much, i just wanted to show the vertical distance and had this laying around

I guess o figured out of already i should use two single row connectors?!

Zapatero wrote: ↑Wed Dec 28, 2022 10:22 pm I guess o figured out of already i should use two single row connectors?!

Yup that is needed in my print there is a little nub between them for spacing.

markc5442 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 21, 2022 6:47 pm Scott, did you get your motor to spin? If not I may be able to help.

Do I assume correctly that rear motor with rear inverter are good to go using CAN bus? I'm thinking these for my next project, so I'm just verifying.

Yes, +12v, ground, CAN L and CAN H - that's it
you have to pull the shut off pin to ground, too...

Does anyone know if it's possibly this simple with Imiev motor and matching inverter?? That would be awesome...

Zapatero has described the LV connections to the inverter. If you read this thread all the way through you will find the pin out description for the plug into the inverter and the various CAN messages required to enable the inverter and make a torque command.

markc5442 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 7:54 am Zapatero has described the LV connections to the inverter. If you read this thread all the way through you will find the pin out description for the plug into the inverter and the various CAN messages required to enable the inverter and make a torque command.

This thread is for the Outlander not Imiev. So you need to find some can logs from an Imiev to see if the messages match.

DkubusEV wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 2:27 am Does anyone know if it's possibly this simple with Imiev motor and matching inverter?? That would be awesome...

This has been asked a few times, you could collect some CAN logs as Tom says or someone with a motor and inverter could just try it - I'm happy to help with this if required.

tom91 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 10:53 am This thread is for the Outlander not Imiev. So you need to find some can logs from an Imiev to see if the messages match.

Cheers, not trying to hijack or annoy anyone. I started a thread for Imiev a while ago but unfortunately not much info available yet, (other than suggestions telling me that I should check out the outlander threads). So I'm keen to learn the differences as soon as I can.

aot93 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 30, 2022 11:09 am This has been asked a few times, you could collect some CAN logs as Tom says or someone with a motor and inverter could just try it - I'm happy to help with this if required.

That would be awesome if you have access to either an Imiev and or a Imiev running gear to get can logs from. Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my zombie verter vcu so can't do much yet. I do have a full Imiev (without battery pack though) so I can't power it up and use it for logging as a standard car. Again sorry to post here regarding Imiev stuff but your thread has been more helpful than any Imiev ones I've seen so far. Cheers guy's.

I’ve been playing around with fitting an Outlander rear motor into my 74 bug with a Toyota inverter but got bogged down with an inadequate power supply and confusion over FOC tuning and have been waiting for some sort of battery to become available in Aus. Last week I thought I had struck gold. A repairable write off 2014 PHEV outlander came my way for a cheeky £750 at auction. Getting it home was an adventure and it looks like it could probably be returned to use but that’s not why I bought it!
Even if the HV battery is dead there are enough other bits to make it a worthwhile purchase and there could even be a profit in breaking it.
I charged the 12v battery and it came to life but won’t start. Dash reports a need for ‘EVS service’ and ‘RBS service’ and HV battery is empty. There is only a type 1 socket and it didn’t come with a charge cable so I can’t do much til next year.
I have also ordered a Watchdog compatible OBD tool.
2 questions please:
I only intend charging at home from a standard wall socket and was wondering if it was at all possible to bypass the type 1 socket with ac without too much trouble (or risk)?
If I remove the service disconnect plug is it possible to read the pack voltage and does the car need to be turned on?
Happy new year to one and all,
Chris

I think i demonstrated on Mitsu charger thread you can run it with 1khz pwm generator set to 25% duty. Charger needs Cp signal to pull in and some way to get AC at the same time.
Really the most reliable way would be to get a L1 charging cable per protocol.

Thanks Arber333, I was just wondering if there was a way of getting some charge into the battery as quickly as possible. I have no way of confirming if it is fully discharged or how long it has been that way and it may be some time before I can source a charge cable as Aus is pretty well shut down for several weeks.

The contactors are inside the battery pack and if you can't them to close you will not be able to measure HV with a meter.
If the contactors are closing you could measure at the front or rear inverter.
HV should be reported on OBD data some where and also on the CAN bus.

The service manual has loads of good info, http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/outlander ... dex_M1.htm

Thanks for that, I wasn’t aware the manuals were so freely available - looks like I have a bit of reading to do while I wait for my OBD to arrive + starting to climb the CAN network mountain.

Ctwidle wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 11:02 am Thanks Arber333, I was just wondering if there was a way of getting some charge into the battery as quickly as possible. I have no way of confirming if it is fully discharged or how long it has been that way and it may be some time before I can source a charge cable as Aus is pretty well shut down for several weeks.

IIRC it has a type 1 connector same as the Leaf - you could ask around to borrow a granny cable.
Not that many Leafs in Australia, though

Is there any option if I want to use other cables than stock between motor and inverter? Printable housing or something like that to get it waterproof?

Anyone know if one of these can be run in reverse (I.e flipped 180 degrees)
The only issue I can think of is if there is an oil pump which only runs in forward gear