openinverter forum

Posted: **Sun May 30, 2021 4:24 pm**

Bryson wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 3:56 am Brass is actually half as electrically conductive as aluminum! Copper is almost 2x aluminum but the standoffs in aluminum are equivalent to 3/0 copper wire almost exactly. I’d venture that we’re fine with aluminum.

Clearly I was wrong on this, thanks for correcting me.

Bryson wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 3:56 am Do you have any videos of your jag running? Would love to see it.

Unfortunately I do not, I will try to make one, but it runs great.

Bryson wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 3:56 am Edit: I had to look up J-gate, mine is a 1970 and it’s straight forward/aft. Interesting idea.

I love this J-gate shifter style, one of my goals is not to alter cars interior and exterior and functionality. I think if you adjust length of the lever at transmission you will be able to match it with pattern on your shifter. In my case I had to shorten it little bit.

Posted: **Wed Jun 23, 2021 2:45 pm**

I have a couple of questions about the oil pump plumbing. Mine looks a little different than other's but it came with the transmission. Mine has a port on top and what looks like a spot for a banjo bolt (see pics). Any idea what to do with these? Also, what about the port on the top of the bell housing? Most seem to not do anything with it. What is it?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FLa7tbGk1b3dJsJ59

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hAMk7WLSYdB8TDSq6

I can't get the pics to load here, but the links seem to work. I haven't tried running the pump yet since I have no fluid in transmission and I'm not sure where those lines go. My transmission also has banjo bolts for oil cooler lines and I did get the banjo connections. I plan to just loop them at first to see how hot it runs. Since I'm in Texas, I figure I may need a transmission oil cooler (and clearly my transmission had one fitted from factory).

Posted: **Thu Jun 24, 2021 12:39 pm**

PatrcioEV-ATX wrote: ↑Wed Jun 23, 2021 2:45 pm I have a couple of questions about the oil pump plumbing. Mine looks a little different than other's but it came with the transmission. Mine has a port on top and what looks like a spot for a banjo bolt (see pics). Any idea what to do with these? Also, what about the port on the top of the bell housing? Most seem to not do anything with it. What is it?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FLa7tbGk1b3dJsJ59

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hAMk7WLSYdB8TDSq6

I can't get the pics to load here, but the links seem to work. I haven't tried running the pump yet since I have no fluid in transmission and I'm not sure where those lines go. My transmission also has banjo bolts for oil cooler lines and I did get the banjo connections. I plan to just loop them at first to see how hot it runs. Since I'm in Texas, I figure I may need a transmission oil cooler (and clearly my transmission had one fitted from factory).

my system has these as well and I was wondering the same thing - I haven't got to the pump yet to wire it up but i'm interested in the answer as well.

Posted: **Thu Jun 24, 2021 1:31 pm**

The two soft lines are breather hoses to vent pressure as the transmission and oil (and air along with it) heat up. This keeps the seals from having to deal with pressure. Mount the breathers anywhere as long as the hoses are vertical. The caps are there to keep water, dirt, etc out

Posted: **Fri Jun 25, 2021 7:03 pm**

Bryson wrote: ↑Thu Jun 24, 2021 1:31 pm The two soft lines are breather hoses to vent pressure as the transmission and oil (and air along with it) heat up. This keeps the seals from having to deal with pressure. Mount the breathers anywhere as long as the hoses are vertical. The caps are there to keep water, dirt, etc out

That's great, thanks! I thought that might be what they are. BTW I've even looked in the Lexus repair manuals, but man those are hard to navigate. Any idea what the hole is (in orange in the pic)? Looks like it's for a banjo bolt, but maybe just a sensor??? Maybe I can just plug it?

Posted: **Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:26 pm**

PatrcioEV-ATX wrote: ↑Fri Jun 25, 2021 7:03 pm
Bryson wrote: ↑Thu Jun 24, 2021 1:31 pm The two soft lines are breather hoses to vent pressure as the transmission and oil (and air along with it) heat up. This keeps the seals from having to deal with pressure. Mount the breathers anywhere as long as the hoses are vertical. The caps are there to keep water, dirt, etc out
That's great, thanks! I thought that might be what they are. BTW I've even looked in the Lexus repair manuals, but man those are hard to navigate. Any idea what the hole is (in orange in the pic)? Looks like it's for a banjo bolt, but maybe just a sensor??? Maybe I can just plug it?

Pretty sure it's a mounting point for the transmission cooler lines, it shouldn't go anywhere.

Run a trans cooler. The transmission is meant to assist a gas engine, rather than doing all the work moving the car. The motors are oil cooled. There is an oil/water heat exchanger on the other side. Any cooling helps.

Posted: **Tue Jun 29, 2021 10:59 pm**

xp677 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:26 pm
PatrcioEV-ATX wrote: ↑Fri Jun 25, 2021 7:03 pm
Bryson wrote: ↑Thu Jun 24, 2021 1:31 pm The two soft lines are breather hoses to vent pressure as the transmission and oil (and air along with it) heat up. This keeps the seals from having to deal with pressure. Mount the breathers anywhere as long as the hoses are vertical. The caps are there to keep water, dirt, etc out
That's great, thanks! I thought that might be what they are. BTW I've even looked in the Lexus repair manuals, but man those are hard to navigate. Any idea what the hole is (in orange in the pic)? Looks like it's for a banjo bolt, but maybe just a sensor??? Maybe I can just plug it?
Pretty sure it's a mounting point for the transmission cooler lines, it shouldn't go anywhere.

Run a trans cooler. The transmission is meant to assist a gas engine, rather than doing all the work moving the car. The motors are oil cooled. There is an oil/water heat exchanger on the other side. Any cooling helps.

You're exactly right! I got down there with a flashlight and it doesn't seem to go anywhere. And it lines up perfectly with the bracket attached to the hard cooler lines. Thanks!

Posted: **Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:00 pm**

Interesting observation/question:

I'm running my inverter on a 60v bench power supply ATM that only puts out about 3-4amps. I've noticed that ever since I locked the input shaft on MG1, I can only give it a little throttle or it bogs down and drops voltage to the point that it almost stops spinning at all. It seems to go just as fast as it did before up to the point that it bogs down.

I never noticed this before I locked the input shaft, and honestly, can't think of any reason locking the shaft would make any difference. Before I locked the shaft in place, it would only spin so fast on 60v of course, but it didn't bog down if it gave it more peddle. Has anyone else noticed this while using a bench power supply? I'm still waiting on the car to come back from paint/body.

Posted: **Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:38 pm**

Of course, locking down input shaft engages another planetary gear set. It adds just enough extra load to bug down your 4A power supply.

Posted: **Wed Jul 14, 2021 11:31 pm**

PatrcioEV-ATX wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 3:00 pm Interesting observation/question:

I'm running my inverter on a 60v bench power supply ATM that only puts out about 3-4amps. I've noticed that ever since I locked the input shaft on MG1, I can only give it a little throttle or it bogs down and drops voltage to the point that it almost stops spinning at all. It seems to go just as fast as it did before up to the point that it bogs down.

I assuming you are using gs450h_V3_user software.(or something close to it)
In the serial monitor play with the max torque setting (option i and q) for both forward and reverse.
Start low, say i50 and do 100 increments.
I noticed when bench testing the the high numbers would bog down the motor.

Posted: **Fri Jul 23, 2021 9:38 pm**

For anyone doing an older car with a cable driven speedometer, there are conversion boxes you can get that take the VSS signal from the GS450h transmission (it's the rear-most 2 wire connector on the left hand of the trans) and converts that to run a variable speed dc motor that turns a speedometer cable. Different types of cables are available. The GS450h exciter ring for the VSS is 15 teeth. Inside the converter box is a bunch of dip switches. You take (# of teeth on exciter ring)x(rear differential ratio)x(# turns/mile of your tires) to get a number. Then there is a chart where you find the number closest to your number and it tells you which switches to throw. Here is a video of mine on the test bench.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRrWiASAO9V ... _copy_link

Posted: **Mon Aug 09, 2021 4:09 pm**

For those of you with rolling cars, what amp draws are you seeing on the road while under moderate acceleration and cruising? And for those w/o rolling cars, what are your plans for amp draw with the 450h unit? Kindly let me know what your vehicle is so I can estimate weight to compare to what I'm building.

Posted: **Mon Aug 09, 2021 4:31 pm**

I see 40-80A cruising at 65mph (~6k rpm in high gear) at ~370V. Heavy acceleration about 475A

4200lb 1970 Jaguar XJ6 with 205 tires

Posted: **Mon Aug 09, 2021 5:10 pm**

ggeter wrote: ↑Mon Aug 09, 2021 4:09 pm For those of you with rolling cars, what amp draws are you seeing on the road while under moderate acceleration and cruising? And for those w/o rolling cars, what are your plans for amp draw with the 450h unit? Kindly let me know what your vehicle is so I can estimate weight to compare to what I'm building.

See Damien's Bexus E65 First Motorway Drive youtube video, good look at the the amp draw on a heavy car!

Posted: **Mon Aug 09, 2021 5:16 pm**

Bryson wrote: ↑Mon Aug 09, 2021 4:31 pm I see 40-80A cruising at 65mph (~6k rpm in high gear) at ~370V. Heavy acceleration about 475A

4200lb 1970 Jaguar XJ6 with 205 tires

This aligns with Damien's Bexus motorway testing videos. Is your main pack fuse in the 600A 500V DC region so? What size HV cables are you using? I was expecting to need at least 95mm2 cables for a slightly heavier build with 380V and the GS450H unit, but some are advising 70mm2 is more than adequate even with a 3 meter run from battery terminals to HVJB/Inverter.

Posted: **Mon Aug 09, 2021 5:27 pm**

600V 500A slow blow fuse, 1/0 cables minimum for my build. Works great, similar size used on the older 500A Teslas

Posted: **Mon Aug 09, 2021 6:12 pm**

Bryson wrote: ↑Mon Aug 09, 2021 4:31 pm I see 40-80A cruising at 65mph (~6k rpm in high gear) at ~370V. Heavy acceleration about 475A

4200lb 1970 Jaguar XJ6 with 205 tires

Thanks guys. My 1979 Midget came in at ~1800 pounds from the factory new. Assuming at half the weight of your rig might amount to a lighter draw overall. My pack is designed to run comfortably at ~150-200A continuous. I can't imagine drawing even that for too long. I'm running a custom battery pack at 307v nominal.

Posted: **Wed Aug 11, 2021 12:02 am**

Bryson wrote: ↑Mon Aug 09, 2021 4:31 pm I see 40-80A cruising at 65mph (~6k rpm in high gear) at ~370V. Heavy acceleration about 475A

4200lb 1970 Jaguar XJ6 with 205 tires

Also, assuming you're using high gear all the time -- what kind of acceleration are you capable of with the Jag? Does it compare to the original Jag drivetrain? Or closer to a modern v6 sedan? Or faster?

Posted: **Wed Aug 11, 2021 12:07 am**

Faster than original drivetrain, I’m using high gear almost always. I have implemented basic shifting in my car so I do sometimes use low gear which has enough torque to break traction up to about 20mph. Hope that helps!

Posted: **Tue Aug 17, 2021 10:24 am**

Hi,
I've got a few questions regarding gearing:
How you shift between them? Is it electronic or is there a high/low on the lever? If the latter, what are all the positions of the lever?
Secondly, what are the ratios of the different gears versus the motor RPM?
Thanks,
Steve

Posted: **Tue Aug 17, 2021 2:15 pm**

The shift lever in my car is connected to the shifter on the side of the transmission. All my gear positions line up pretty well with the original shifter, so when I shift from D to 2 (originally a 3 speed auto) it digitally signals the VCU to shift into low gear. Shifter info is on the wiki.

Low gear makes MG2 spin about twice as fast, otherwise the two motor speeds are close to each other.

Posted: **Tue Aug 17, 2021 2:19 pm**

Bryson wrote: ↑Tue Aug 17, 2021 2:15 pm The shift lever in my car is connected to the shifter on the side of the transmission. All my gear positions line up pretty well with the original shifter, so when I shift from D to 2 (originally a 3 speed auto) it digitally signals the VCU to shift into low gear. Shifter info is on the wiki.

Low gear makes MG2 spin about twice as fast, otherwise the two motor speeds are close to each other.

Nice one, thanks Bryson. I've been reading the VCU support thread, and Most of my questions have been answered. I was asking about switching from high to low gear, but I just didn't realise it. I don't think I'll be needing low gear, in my rx-8.

One thing I'm concerned about is top speed. My diff ratio is 4.4-1, so I'm trying to figure out what the maximum shaft rotation will be so I can calculate what my top speed will be. Do you know your diff ratio?

Posted: **Tue Aug 17, 2021 2:25 pm**

Mine is 3.54:1 and top speed is calculated to be around 115mph, although I’ll never go above 90 in this car. I believe my tires are 205/70/15

Posted: **Sat Aug 21, 2021 7:26 am**

I found out correct oil pump temperature sensor connector is Sumitomo 6189-7020, which could be found here https://www.auto-click.co.uk/6189-7020

Also found out VW uses same oil pump controller under 09D927601, VW uses also ground pin on power connector which is nice.

Posted: **Fri Sep 17, 2021 2:26 pm**

Did anyone welded planetary carrier? Asking becase for me it looks like a good idea, so mechanical oil pump will work and no need for complex and expensive electric oil pump. My only concern is about MG1 and MG2 RPM and direction of rotation.

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