openinverter forum

So maybe I have another incorrect component. I took a picture and was comparing components to the BOM and I noticed R21 wasn't a match. According to the BOM it is supposed to be 10 ohms. I haven't found it on the schematic yet. The resisters in question are near the top of the attached photo where there is glare.

jwr813472 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 3:52 pm TMPHSMAX
Hi All. I've been trying to get my inverter to do something other then have some LEDs blink. My motor would sometimes jog or engage for a split second in MANUAL MODE. With nothing hooked up other than 12v and GND I get fault TMPHSMAX. Looking at spot values TMPHS it is reading 85.43 degrees C.During normal startup the precharge contactor would energise but the MAIN CONTACTOR would not with the start button. I measured the resistance of the coolant sensor and it does change from 2.86k and drops when briefly applying heat. My motor sensor is currently not connected Looking at the schematics I found on the WIKI, R22 is supposed to a 10K resistor. Is this correct? On my board the component is stamped with "2200" and with my meter is measuring 165.8 ohms.
Thanks in advance for your help.
John

The TMPHSMAX fault is when the inverter is getting too hot. It's a safety mechanism which stops the inverter from running to prevent something bad happening. The 'tmphsmax' parameter sets the temperature at which the TMPHSMAX fault triggers. If you're just testing on the bench it's usually OK to set the tmphsmax parameter to something fairly high like 100 or 110. As I understand it, the remaining Toyota bits of the inverter will still shut it down if things get too toasty anyway. So, setting a higher value for tmphsmax will get you past that fault.

Christian
Thanks for your post and insight. I will try adjusting the set-point later today when I get time to work on it. Currently it is at 85C. The inverter is room temperature. There is no heat in it at all.
My real questions are:
1. what is causing the fault?
2. is my board populated correctly? There seems to be a discrepancy between my board and the BOM.

jwr813472 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 23, 2021 1:56 pm Christian
Thanks for your post and insight. I will try adjusting the set-point later today when I get time to work on it. Currently it is at 85C. The inverter is room temperature. There is no heat in it at all.
My real questions are:
1. what is causing the fault?
2. is my board populated correctly? There seems to be a discrepancy between my board and the BOM.

Make sure you have the right sensor type selected. Set snshs to semikron for the Prius gen 3. Choosing the wrong sensor will give you wonky values.

My advice is to get the heat sink temperature faults resolved first before going down the faulty/wrong parts rabbit hole. Trust me. I’ve gone down that rabbit hole

Some upgrades on the Gen 3 Prius logic board following feedback and contributions:

5V, -5V and 3v3 Supplies upgraded.

Double footprint to allow Olimex or Wemos wifi modules.

DCDC converter delayed startup on main contactor close.

DCDC 12V output control via STM32.

DCDC Sense permanently connected to +12V (avoids turn off overshoots)

Prototypes should arrive in the next week and should get a chance to test over Christmas. Design files will be released on Patreon at that stage.

All the non placed parts will be supplied in the kit but the STM32 will be fitted and programmed by me prior to dispatch.

im working on my electric mazda rx8, so i went for a hybrid model, using a kia optima hybrid alternator, my question, can i use the gen three inverter to start the small engine automatically and then take over as regen to charge my battery and possibly use it for extra power when i need it while driving?

Dylan Witt wrote: ↑Mon Dec 20, 2021 2:12 am can i use the gen three inverter to start the small engine automatically

Yes. The power stage you use dose not matter, it’s the control code. having a “turn key” style. Start should be fairly straight forward as it would a “throttle” pedal

Not sure exactly where to post this one. I'm having issues with canbus communication with the board. I'm getting nothing out of the one in the car so decided to set up on the bench with spare board and SavvyCan. Here I'm just getting the same message ~250 times/second:
0x23B 20 00 F0 FF 00 00 00 00
I've had different messages but always on the same address. Don't think it's coming from SavvyCan - certainly not doing any sending/playback and not sure how it would be coming from the GVRET firmware. Sending stops when I disconnect canh/l from the board.

Need to get this working as I want to implement canbus control of the inverter start for charging purposes. Any pointers welcome.

EDIT: Tested on a Johannes board and that seems to be working fine. Same setup and firmware version (latest).

I found that the Dual Prius3 board does not connect the two STM32 to the outside world CAN-wise. They only use CAN to communicate with each other. Only participant on board is the little Atmel, maybe that's what you're seeing? Not sure how the Single Prius board does it, but the schematic will reveal it

I have the same board, can with the STM32 works perfectly.

johu wrote: ↑Sat Jan 15, 2022 7:32 pm I found that the Dual Prius3 board does not connect the two STM32 to the outside world CAN-wise. They only use CAN to communicate with each other. Only participant on board is the little Atmel, maybe that's what you're seeing? Not sure how the Single Prius board does it, but the schematic will reveal it

That's interesting, though as Jamie points out, it works on his (single) board like mine.

Different connections for the Atmel, unless I've somehow hooked it up wrong (not according to the wiki or schematic as far as I can tell).

I am in the process of building up my inverter and had a couple of quick questions. I saw from this post: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopi ... 481#p31481 that the 3.3v regulator is insufficient for the WiFi module.

Since I'm in the process of building the inverter: Is this now a recommended mod - and if so, is the AMS 1117 regulator a good option?

And my other question is: When I installed the board in the inverter (G9200-52010) I have an extra connector which doesn't have a home on the new board:
Is this something that's not required and I should just fix it out of the way, or is there some mod I should be doing? I don't see any reference to it in the wiki or this thread, but I can be very blind.

Thanks for any help!

Not sure about the extra connector. On the Wi-Fi, I would recommend it. People have taken various approaches. Personally, I went overboard and used a separate buck converter module (LM2596) straight from the 12v and relocated the Wi-Fi module outside of the case at the same time. Range can be a little limited, especially with the bonnet down, so I wanted to have the best chance of being able to access the Wi-Fi from the cabin or even the house, which I can now do.

It's part of the interlock loop. I'm pretty sure it's not used.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:32 am Personally, I went overboard and used a separate buck converter module (LM2596) straight from the 12v and relocated the Wi-Fi module outside of the case at the same time. Range can be a little limited...

Huh, I like that thought. I may steal it. Thanks!

Bigpie wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:57 am It's part of the interlock loop. I'm pretty sure it's not used.

Ace, thanks!

Good morning everyone. I have a HICUROFS1/2 error that I'm trying to figure out. It seems to happen as soon as the MG2 current sensor is connected. When I send 12v to the board I can hear it whine if MG1 is connected, but as soon as I connect MG2, the whine is barely audible and I get the error. Inverter whine is at different audible frequencies if sensors are connected individually.

If I start in manual mode, il1 il2 id and iq all fluctuate with very small values which I assume is noise since nothing is connected. As soon as I connect MG1, the inverter starts to whine but there is no change in spot values, they continue to fluctuate. When I connect MG2 the whine drops to barely audible, il1 il2 id and iq all spike momentarily to some very high number then drop to 0, and idc goes to -15.96. HV is not connected.

If I swap the connections, I get the same results which would suggest the problem is with the MG2 sensor connector.

UPDATE: While testing pins at the connector, I managed to short an alligator clip to the inverter case and now my 26v is only reading 11v with a 12.8v supply. Not fun. All voltages were correct before installing the board into the inverter.

2nd UPDATE: Measured capacitance of C4 = 548 microF, C16 = 548 microF, C31 = 317 microF. All measured on the board. I would assume this means I need to replace C4 and C16?

3rd UPDATE: Please pardon my noobness. Took C4 and C16 out of circuit and capacitance is fine. Of course, I managed to damage the solder pads in the process. Tested D1, D2, and D3. Forward bias shows 0.23v drop across all 3 but reverse bias showed 0.8v across D2 and OL at D1 and D3. Did I find the culprit at D2?

4th UPDATE: How can I test IC1 without a scope? Realized I've been checking things that aren't even in the same circuit. In the meantime, everything around IC1 seems to be good. Is it really as simple as 12v out = failed ic?

Noob question from someone who should know better ....if a guy got a V1c board working in open loop and all was progressing well then got complacent and hooked 12v to a car battery the wrong way round, blowing the 5A fuse , with a little bit of smoke , what might he have to replace to see life in it again ? is it likely the STM32 is fried ?......asking for a friend

The logic board has an anti reverse polarity diode for protection. Likely the inverter is dead or damaged however.

Evening folks. I'm having an issue with my inverter board. It was working well until I changed ocurlim from 100 to 200. I then went for a jaunt around the neighborhood, all seemed fine. When I went to drive it again later, my contactor didn't click. I traced the problem down to the inverter board's output pin to close contactors. It does not go high when I press the button to do so. I'm not sure how common this pinout is, but it's pin 24 for me. I do have more info if you have questions, but I'm hoping there's an easy answer. I have this one https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... t_.26_Plug

Random question: Does anyone know the size / threads foe the bolts that hook the 3 mg1 / mg2 cables to the inverter?

After searching around I have found the torque specs but not a size

Thanks,
wcc

Japanese are fans of putting M6 bolts everywhere. Also on said terminals

Thank you! My inveter has no hardware and I was dreading trying a bunch!

Hi everyone, I have the new v1c_b4 board that was released in December, and I have a few questions:

1. This one has the new Wemos WIFI module included, but I'm unclear which way this should be oriented. I see four possible orientations:



2. There were a few loose transistors and 1k resistors included with my board and I'm not sure where they go. I didn't see anything with these in the installation videos or the Wiki (the videos do mention changing the values of the DC/DC voltage dividers on the underside, but that seems to require 8 resistors, and there are only two here, and they have different values than those):



3. The microcontroller DC/DC converter came separately with mine, but in the assembly videos/Wiki, it appears to already be soldered. The release notes mention "DCDC 12V output control via STM32," so, is this no longer necessary? If so, can someone clarify the proper pin-1 orientation; I couldn't find a clear shot of it in the videos.



4. Related, I see a new "DC/DC on/off" jumper now. Should this have a jumper on it by default (assuming I want the DC/DC converter to run)?

Thanks!

I'm no expert, but I have two other variants of this board so I might be able to help out a bit.

jeffb wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 3:13 am 1. This one has the new Wemos WIFI module included, but I'm unclear which way this should be oriented. I see four possible orientations:

It looks to me like you've got the correct orientation in the picture. I see the TX/RX lines going off to the STM32F and a chunkier connection going into the 5V pin.

jeffb wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 3:13 am 3. The microcontroller DC/DC converter came separately with mine, but in the assembly videos/Wiki, it appears to already be soldered. The release notes mention "DCDC 12V output control via STM32," so, is this no longer necessary? If so, can someone clarify the proper pin-1 orientation; I couldn't find a clear shot of it in the videos.

IC12 appears to actually be the CAN bus controller for the charger CAN. If you want your inverter to act as a charger and you want to communicate with it over CAN you'll need to solder this chip on. Looks like you have it in the right orientation in the picture.

jeffb wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 3:13 am 4. Related, I see a new "DC/DC on/off" jumper now. Should this have a jumper on it by default (assuming I want the DC/DC converter to run)?

Yeah, put a jumper on there or just solder it closed.

chrskly wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 7:49 pm I'm no expert, but I have two other variants of this board so I might be able to help out a bit...

Thank you, that was helpful! I have the web interface coming up now, but I'm having trouble getting the motor to spin. I suspect a sequencing issue with connecting power, and was hoping someone who has gotten this working may be able to spot my error.

When I power up and press 'Display Error Memory', I see the message "[500]: STOP - PRECHARGE". I'm using a 30V, 10A benchtop power supply to provide "high voltage" temporarily so I can attempt to give the motor a test spin. I have connected the power supply to the screws per the wiki (https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... Connection). I have a separate 12v wall wart powering the logic board, via the IDC connector pins.

After some research, I figured this was because the 'udcsw' parameter was set to 330v. I changed it to 25v for now. I'm assuming the parameter takes effect immediately, as I saw an affirmative message in the log ("OK Set Ok"). I measured the voltage at the pins with a multimeter and it was indeed 30v, but the power supply reports that zero current is being drawn. I cleared the error messages and pressed 'display error log' and it showed the pre-charge error again again. If I power cycle the 12v to the board, udcsw is set back to 330v.

Q1: Do I need to do anything special after changing udcsw to get it out of the error state?
Q2: Is the "STOP - PRECHARGE" error that I see the second time a stale message from before, or is it failing repeatedly? Is there any way to know if it has precharged successfully?
Q3: How do I get these parameter changes to "stick" after reboot?

I don't have a contactor attached. I tried both powering up 30v before turning on the 12v supply and after. I have seen people using a precharge resistor, but I'm assuming that isn't necessary, since my power supply is current limited.

Under the assumption that the message could be stale, I moved ahead and set fslipspnt to 10 Hz and ampnom to 100%, then pressed the 'start inverter in manual mode' button. I don't have the resolver hooked up (this is with a LEAF motor), but I'm assuming it will at least try to spin in open loop mode. Pressing the 'display error memory' button, I now see the message "[18099]: STOP - OVERCURRENT" As I understand, this is a catch-all message tied to the pin coming off of the Toyota hardware.

Q4: What power supplies are y'all using for testing?
Q5: What sequence do you usually use to apply high voltage?
Q6: Does anyone have any insights as to why this may be failing?

Here's a picture of my setup for reference:


Thanks!