openinverter forum

m.art.y wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 4:59 am Yes I would be interested in that too. By the way has anybody run MG1 and MG2 in parallel for more power on a single motor on V1c board? How do we wire the motor and which jumpers we need to solder up - just the 6 by the 50 way connector or also the one next to R81? Thanks

Yes. I`ve soldered 6 jampers and move busbars from MG1 power stage to MG2 with parallel, and made jampers from MG1 power stage to MG2 power stage. Now both currents go through MG2 current sensors.



It is works:

I found four useless lines per chip:
MGx_DESAT
MGx_BMS
MGx_MPROT_IN
MGx_UVLO_IN

I'm gonna delete them in my design, but I wonder what was their purpose before?

Excellent work on the parallel setup. Never had time to try it myself.

Desat = desat error input from an igbt driver
bms=bms input
mprot= nc motor protection switch.
uvlo=under voltage lockout error from an igbt driver.

Folks did we ever share the stl files for the 3d printed blanking plates for the unused inverter connections?

They're linked on the wiki
https://github.com/jamiejones85/Gen3Pri ... ter3DParts

Need any printing off?

Gaahhh sorry:)

Just added a new one for blanking MG1 too.

(And also happy to print/post you some if you need. I actually have some spares as I'm going to be making some new ones to allow access to the round ports for charger/heater).

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Tue Mar 23, 2021 7:42 am Desat = desat error input from an igbt driver
bms=bms input
mprot= nc motor protection switch.
uvlo=under voltage lockout error from an igbt driver.

Yes, but they have no use in Toyota inverters, so they are obsolete(?).

basically yes. I linked the toyota driver error signals to the brkin pin on the stm32 so when Mr.toyota gets angry the Johannes brain stops making pwm:)

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Thu Mar 25, 2021 10:51 am basically yes. I linked the toyota driver error signals to the brkin pin on the stm32 so when Mr.toyota gets angry the Johannes brain stops making pwm:)

OK, as I understand, you connected MGX_FAULT signals from IGBT board as PWM stop condition in software.

But what I mean is this four signals (mentioned above) are physically connected to GND or 3.3V through resistors and do nothing but wasting pins on STM's.
IMO they are reminescence of earlier iterations to be wiped.

zilion wrote: ↑Thu Mar 25, 2021 12:10 pm IMO they are reminescence of earlier iterations to be wiped.

Not necessarily earlier iteration, remember that the firmware and general design is used in several other inverter logic boards as well, some of which use those inputs. Detection of the board version is implemented in the firmware to some extent but at the moment I think when loaded on the prius board some of those are still being checked despite them being tied high or low as required.
Further still, the state of those pins is what is used to detect the board variant:
(taken from rev5, which I haven't downloaded yet) Not saying you shouldn't remove/reallocate the pins, just pointing out you will need to make a few firmware changes as well.

180jacob wrote: ↑Sat Mar 27, 2021 11:21 am
Not necessarily earlier iteration, remember that the firmware and general design is used in several other inverter logic boards as well, some of which use those inputs. Detection of the board version is implemented in the firmware to some extent but at the moment I think when loaded on the prius board some of those are still being checked despite them being tied high or low as required.
Further still, the state of those pins is what is used to detect the board variant:

This is gonna be a mess. And sooner then later. It can be contained to some degree for boards with one IC, but now Toyota has two IC's, and mine has three IC's to be programmed with one software.
Besides if you want to add another HW version, you have to revise all other boards that are using this software.
And I see, that Damien can't stop to stripe another inverters and chargers
Well, it works for now.

And to say something constructive at the end, I suggest to add some header file, like: HW_conf.h where you can uncomment HW version for specific board, and abstract their pins configuration.
"Everything should be made as simple as possible but not simpler"

But then each user has to make sure they download and flash the correct firmware.

The current method of the firmware IDing the board its' running on is only difficult when designing a new board - the designer just has to work out a unique combination of pins high and low. No need to do anything for old boards - they're already in the firmware. And it's only 'official' boards that need that - if you're just doing your own 'one off', then do your own firmware edits too!

Right, I'd always wanted to standardize on one analog pin where you could just connect a divider bridge and thereby identify the board. Just maintain all flavours on the wiki, done.
That said, board identification isn't terribly important. We had some alternative pin mapping between Rev1 and Rev2 and some specialities for Tesla boards. I think Damiens Prius boards all detect as Rev2 or 3 and thats absolutely fine as they use a Rev2-compatible pin mapping.

I'm up to the step "First Run (PWM verify)" on the wiki guide https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... _verify.29

Unfortunately, when I click "Start inverter in manual mode" I don't hear any whine sound.

There is a slight fizzing sound as soon as the inverter board is powered on, but no extra sound when clicking that button.

I have tried with and without the 12V connected to pin3 - "MG2_FORW_IN".

Also I don't quite follow the final part:

"Using a scope, look for a PWM signal on MG2 A/B/C Hi/Low on the 50 pin connector."

Look where exactly? What kind of scope do they mean?

I uploaded a screenshot of my parameters. Please let me know if there is somewhere else I can find more precise debugging/error logs.

So I pressed on ahead, regardless of the inability to detect a whining sound, as described above.

I tried connecting my 48V e-bike battery (54V when fully charged) up through the precharge circuit.

When connecting the battery I don't see any flash in the 100W filament bulb at all.

Looking at the time series plot of UDC value it appears to hover around 43V, and slowly decays towards 0 after disconnecting the battery.

I have UDCSW set to 0, and UDCMIN set to 0.

I see the error message [12038]: STOP - PRECHARGE

I am fiddling around with fslipspnt and ampnom but nothing has made the motor spin yet.

EDIT: Disregard the above. I managed to fiddle around with some values until I saw the bulb glow a little, and the motor began making rattling noises. I still couldn't get it to rotate, as I was wary of setting those values too high and destroying something. Perhaps my battery is too weak to rotate it fully?

Can anyone advise what I might do to make the motor rotate instead of rattle? I tried putting a 55W bulb in the precharge circuit to replace the 100W one, which seems to make more power available to the motor. However it just rattles more violently than before (quite extreme vibrating back and forth) and still doesn't spin.

I can see the driveshafts jittering back and forth, as well as the input shaft that mates to the engine (which is a bit surprising to me, as I thought you needed to weld the power split device to make that connect to MG2's drive). But where's my rotation!??!

Not long ago I was mouthing off about ordering my own boards from JLC and assembling them. (See here if you're really that bored: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1509) Of course that was just before I started actually assembling and testing, and of course testing failed, big time. Luckily, I was spawned by a now-retired EE. We've been emailing back and forth, testing this, trying that, figuring out what I may have destroyed through improper testing and assembly and scratching our heads. The initial suspect was main 5V buck converter, AKA IC2, which was OOS @ JLC and I had to find and install. Even with the correct part correctly installed, though, things were not working in some pretty weird ways. Skipping hopefully to the end, I finally noticed JLC placed a cap where R113 (in the -5V supply circuit) was supposed to go. Checking back over the DFM analysis showed that literally every part of that circuit was misplaced and that the regulator IC for the previous design was used. It's fixable, but I'll need to order the correct regulator and replace that as well as the incorrect caps and resistor. (Excuse to look for a "makerspace" or purchase my own rework station...hmmm.)
It did not occur to me that the BOM and CPL wouldn't match the b3 stuff, but that appears to be the case. The files in the repo are from a few months prior to the block 3 schematic and gerber zip. Call this a warning to the next person who wants to order their own boards. Presumably someone could produce the updated BOM and CPLs (from the schematic?) and such, and send in a PR. I'll be looking into it but it's beyond my current knowledge, so don't expect too much from me. There are a few different designs in that repo tho, none with the correct BOM or CPL. Not a complaint...just a warning.

@electric_sheep, you may have your resolver wired up incorrectly, I had the same behaviour in a configuration that presented a good looking plot when manually turned by hand but would just shake. Changed over to another configuration that gave a nice plot and away it span.

Hi!
I facing a trouble with Prius Gen 3 inverter on my Tigra - when I quick release a throtlle, motor hits transmission due huge regen, it seems as fully blocked wheels, current of regen rise about 300A !!!
I fully off regen, but it still occure. Please advise which parameters I should to tune for fix it.

Should be fixed in latest SW release.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1628

guys im needing some help. can post on my page of the forum on my electric rx8 build. so i have a 100amp hour 47 cell li-ion preius prime plug in battery. i have re-arranged all the cells in this configuration. 47 cells, 100amp hours at 195volts dc full charge. my question, i dont have a charger and i know that with some help i can use the gen three inverter to charge my battery, but im only wanting to use my 115vac connection for testing, just for because of the limited amount of electrical wiring for 220vac charging cable needed, the real question is how would i connect my ac lines to my phase wires on mg1? line hot to phase three, ground to phase 1 and neutral to phase 2? or does the orientation even matter since it is running at 60hz.

Dylan Witt wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 7:57 amthe real question is how would i connect my ac lines to my phase wires on mg1? line hot to phase three, ground to phase 1 and neutral to phase 2? or does the orientation even matter since it is running at 60hz.

I don't want to give wrong advice, but, when you do get your answer, do add it to the wiki (maybe we should have an FAQ?) so that it's archived.

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... as_charger

Dylan Witt wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 7:57 am the real question is how would i connect my ac lines to my phase wires on mg1? line hot to phase three, ground to phase 1 and neutral to phase 2? or does the orientation even matter since it is running at 60hz.

Oh goodness. That's a hell of a question.
I know you don't want ground on a phase wire. That will trip your GFCI for sure and quite possibly electrocute you. Stick the ground wire on the inverter chassis if you like.

195 volt battery means you'll need to use boost charging for 110v. (which rectifies to ~170v). Actually that will be a huge pain, you may need to switch between buck and boost. Might I suggest skipping 110 and using 220 only?

For buck mode, then, the wiki has info.
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Battery_Charging

Read that carefully before hooking anything up!!!

привет всем. для тех кто падает на инвертор высокое напряжение свыше 300 вольт с другой стороны, я подал там где подается 202 вольт. но после небольшими доработками.
на фотках видно все.
на конденсаторном блоке отрезали не нужны шины и добавили нужные нам самодельные медные шины.
теперь я смело подаю 350 вольт место 202 вольт.

Hello everybody. for those who drop a high voltage over 300 volts on the inverter on the other hand, I applied where 202 volts are supplied. but after minor modifications.
the pictures show everything.
on the capacitor block, we cut off the busbars and added the homemade copper busbars we needed.
now I boldly feed 350 volts place 202 volts.

вот так выглядит установка
this is how the installation looks like