Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Fri Dec 08, 2023 10:58 pm
I've gone through and checked wiring and continuity this evening but nothing but I also checked the torque Vs pot and there is no torque request with pot change.
Did you check inter-pair resistance? Should be 60ohm across each pair?
I had problems getting the motor to spin without solid ground connections between inverter, motor, and zombie.
I did and got 128ohms across each pair measuring the same end of each (unplugged zombie). I thought it should be 120ohms....
I'll try the ground but have tried with an alumiun bar connecting inverter and transmission and signal wire shielding to inverter and then a wire connecting inverter to the negative of the battery.
Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 12:09 pm
I'll try the ground but have tried with an alumiun bar connecting inverter and transmission and signal wire shielding to inverter and then a wire connecting inverter to the negative of the battery.
Aluminium bar has oxide on it so not a good connection. Use a bolted wire connection. By the battery do you mean 12V supply to the Zombie?
tom91 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 12:26 pm
Aluminium bar has oxide on it so not a good connection. Use a bolted wire connection. By the battery do you mean 12V supply to the Zombie?
It's brand new anodised bar I'll change it for a wire.
Currently using a 12V battery with a 12V PSU connected in parallel. The inverter is grounded to the battery terminal.
tom91 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 12:26 pm
Aluminium bar has oxide on it so not a good connection. Use a bolted wire connection. By the battery do you mean 12V supply to the Zombie?
We have a winner!
Put some galvanised steel wire, between everything and also moved everything onto a bigger battery which may or may not have helped. Anyway, we have liftoff!
Edit: I think the change to a bigger 12V battery might have done it tbh as removing the wire that grounds everything hasn't changed anything and it still spins.
crasbe wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 10:42 pm
The cloth tape isn't always suitable for outside applications, it might go moldy.
Ah that's a bit annoying but thanks for the heads up. What would be a suitable alternative tape-wise? It's be nice just to rewrap the existing cloth in something rather than remove it completely if possible. I may add conduit also at a later date when installing.
Get some good quality PVC tape from a reputable brand. Coroplast or Tesa for example. The cheap tape becomes "slimy" rather quickly.
You can get cloth-like tape which is suitable for exterior applications like TESA 51036 (recommendation from Tom91 ).
Tesa has catalogues which you can go through and find good tape for your desired applications.
There is 3m self amalgamating silicon tape, that when stretched so the dimples dissappear and bound, is extremely durable.. this maybe suitable to overwrap your loom.
Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2023 2:43 pm
Now how do I get gauges to show motor rpm ......
How does your tach currently receive the signal for RPMs? I am sending MG2 Spd to an Arduino and displaying that on a custom Nextion display. But knowing how your tach works is the starting point.
1998 Ford ZX2 - DC EV conversion(sold) http://evalbum.com/2093
2012 Nissan Leaf (sold)
2016 Mercedes B250e (sold)
2023 Volvo C40
PatrcioEV-ATX wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2023 7:47 pm
How does your tach currently receive the signal for RPMs? I am sending MG2 Spd to an Arduino and displaying that on a custom Nextion display. But knowing how your tach works is the starting point.
tach!
My van has temp, fuel, Speedo and an analogue clock!
More just wanting to display stuff on the web interface gauge for bench testing ATM.
Do any UK people have a good recommendation for cheap sources of automotive wiring? I'm wiring up the oil pump controller which is 4mm diameter (including insulation). Wiki suggests the oil pump could pull up to 50A. Obviously eBay but I'm wondering if given the source the markup might be much higher, anyway..... Any recommendations?
So I turned the motor and inverter on today to do some spinning and see if I could get mg2 and mg1 rpm using a BIN from Bigpie, which worked for a little bit, then the motor started running really sluggish and weirdly. It might be low HV battery so I'll give it a charge but not sure what else it could be.
After checking the HV battery voltage, they all see ok (5x12V batteries sitting at 12.6V each)....
It's possible the throttle wiring may be a little dodgy so I'll have a play with that tomorrow and hopefully get it back to spinning properly.
It happened suddenly so I'm a bit confused but potentially the clutch packs have slipped as I was stupid and ran it fastish without the oil pump running. I'm going to wire up the oil pump controller once wiring arrives and hopefully that'll sort it. I tried again today after charging the 12V batteries and it ran a little better but still not as it was before.
With your subject title, Gs300h part, are you still considering it?
Am contemplating using L210 trans from gs300h in a campervan application with around 4.1 :1 diff ratio, and figure will be Mg2 12500 rpm @ 100kph.
Have seemingly managed to load free on hoist get to max 14000 rpm, after some conjecture, with mistaken ratios.
Think you have explored this avenue, but keen to hear your current views on it.
Woodfie wrote: ↑Tue Dec 19, 2023 10:00 am
With your subject title, Gs300h part, are you still considering it?
Am contemplating using L210 trans from gs300h in a campervan application with around 4.1 :1 diff ratio, and figure will be Mg2 12500 rpm @ 100kph.
Have seemingly managed to load free on hoist get to max 14000 rpm, after some conjecture, with mistaken ratios.
Think you have explored this avenue, but keen to hear your current views on it.
Yes still considering it but I wanted to test the safer option first. After trying to manoeuvre the GS450H onto my workbench however I'm a lot more tempted by the GS300H again.
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