Okay, I would eventually like to get this into a Wiki page, but for now maybe it's best to vomit a bunch of info here. I just tore down a 2021 model year batter and thought others may want to see some more details of the internals. There are some teardown videos out there, but I have never seen anyone talk too much about the cooling system or the contactor box, so that's the focus here. I'm going to come back and add more info later, and fill in some of the blanks. I am only able to spend a little time on this each day, so please bear with me.
Some notes on the general construction:
The battery contains 6 modules arranged into two banks of three. Each module is 16S. Each bank of three modules is held together with a steel frame, and a cold plate on the bottom, through which coolant is circulated. The frame is held down the bottom of the battery housing via four feet on each long side, and two on the end opposite to the water ports. External dimensions are approximately 720mm x 400mm x 200mm.
The cold plates use quick disconnect fittings which have 5/8" hose barbs on them, and the coolant circulates through both banks in parallel. The coolant inlet and outlines both have temperature sensors clamped to the outside of the aluminum bulkhead fitting just inside the battery, before they tee off to each bank.
Bus bars are used rather than stranded wire almost everywhere in the battery. HV stranded wire is used to supply power to the two auxuliary plugs, however the power to the main plug that feeds the inverter, is fed entirely by bus bars.
The pack uses two current sensors; one is mounted just below the service disconnect, the other in the contactor box.
The service disconnect contains a 350A Bussmann fuse, and the receptacle has M6 posts on the underside, meaning it could easily be transplanted into a new battery box.
The contactor box has four vibration-isolating feet, is roughly rectangular and bolts to a flat surface - all potentially useful things for a custom-built enclosure!
Notable parts
HV Service Disconnect:
350A internal fuse (Eaton Bussmann 170M3418) , TE part # is not printed on the housing but it matches TE P/N 1-2103172-1. Receptacle would then be P/N 1-1587987-1.
Contactors:
TE 2219561-1 (from their EVC500 series). 500A rating, 12VDC coil, NO economizer, datasheet says an external economizer is required.
Precharge Resistor:
Stamped with "RWR=50W 25R0JSMT", 25 ohms, appears to be 50 watts.
Precharge Relay:
Not stamped with an obvious part number, but it is a yellow, 4 pin plug-in relay embossed with the TE logo, possibly 2-1904058-7
Current sensor inside contactor box:
Lem DHAB S/118
Current sensor under HV service disconnect:
Lem cab500-c/sp5
One other set of numbers that may be useful to anyone buying one of these batteries. There are two 12 pin sealed connectors that go through the shell of the battery to communicate with the BMS etc. They bolt through the shell of the battery and have a gasket seal, which makes them attractive to re-use for LV connections on a DIY battery box. There's a decent length of wire to re-use on them, too. They are Molex MX150 series. One is grey, the other black. They are keyed differently to prevent cross plugging. The grey one appears to be Molex # 477256030 (Key type 'C') and the black one 477256010 (Key type 'A').
There seem to be a ton of possible mating connectors available, but the ones I went with are 334721208 and 334721259. They are the same colors as the header and have position assurance tabs. I went with Molex 330123004 pins to match the size of wiring I'm using.
Side note, I really want to find out the part number for the BMS plugs. Thunderstruck does sell them, but they charge $120 USD for the set of twelve, which seems like a pretty hefty markup. Unfortunately, the male end of the plugs doesn't seem to have a single marking on it. I will have to pull off a cover and see if the female side has any clues...
Chrysler Pacifica Battery Info
Re: Chrysler Pacifica Battery Info
Okay, I got the connectors mentioned above and they do plug in and seem to be correct.
Also, after some digging I think there might be a better way. Those KET connectors seem to be hard to get in North America and in quantities under 1000. Mine were ordered on Aliexpress and may not be genuine, though the quality does seem fine.
The potential better way is to order just the pins and reuse the connector housings (assuming you bought a complete battery as I did and have the housings). While searching, I discovered that TE 316836-1 pins are listed as an interchange part. Sure enough, the drawings are nearly identical, and they can be had from Mouser and Digikey.
TE product listing: 316836-1 https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-316836-1.html
KET drawing (Use the pin P/N appropriate for your BMS wire. In the case of my Dilithium BMS 22awg wire that would be ST730770):
TE drawing (again assuming 22awg wire):
The old pins can be removed from the housing by carefully prying the back portion of the connector up, which snaps into placed to hold the pins in.
One word of caution, don't just use a needlenose and fold the tabs around the wire, use a proper crimper! And check each crimp!
I have a so-so ratcheting crimper with interchangeable dies, and one of them is for open barrel connectors and 22awg wire, which does seem to do a good crimp:
Also, after some digging I think there might be a better way. Those KET connectors seem to be hard to get in North America and in quantities under 1000. Mine were ordered on Aliexpress and may not be genuine, though the quality does seem fine.
The potential better way is to order just the pins and reuse the connector housings (assuming you bought a complete battery as I did and have the housings). While searching, I discovered that TE 316836-1 pins are listed as an interchange part. Sure enough, the drawings are nearly identical, and they can be had from Mouser and Digikey.
TE product listing: 316836-1 https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-316836-1.html
KET drawing (Use the pin P/N appropriate for your BMS wire. In the case of my Dilithium BMS 22awg wire that would be ST730770):
One word of caution, don't just use a needlenose and fold the tabs around the wire, use a proper crimper! And check each crimp!
I have a so-so ratcheting crimper with interchangeable dies, and one of them is for open barrel connectors and 22awg wire, which does seem to do a good crimp:
Re: Chrysler Pacifica Battery Info
EV West claims that Maximum Discharging Current (10 sec.):800 Amps. Do u believe in that?
Re: Chrysler Pacifica Battery Info
Well I haven't done any testing myself, but I suppose I don't have any reason to doubt their numbers. I'm not sure I'd design my system to regularly draw quite that much, though. Afterall that is almost a 20c discharge rate and at 350v represents 280kW.
In my case the pack came from a vehicle that was 2-3 years old and 50,000 kms on the odometer, but I do hope to draw around 140kW with the stock cooling plates without issues.
In my case the pack came from a vehicle that was 2-3 years old and 50,000 kms on the odometer, but I do hope to draw around 140kW with the stock cooling plates without issues.