[DRIVING] VW Touran powered by Nissan Leaf [FINISHED]

[EV_Builder]

Depending on the hole size I suggest a punch. By far the most easiest in stainless.

[johu]

Would Lexan be appropriate? Since is plastic would be easy to heat up and ben in any shape.

In which spot do you mean?

Apart from that it is all aluminium 3mm, so working with it shouldn't be hard.
I'll add reinforcement bars on the top where it's bolted to the center beam

[andybpowell]

Maybe you should learn to weld aluminium or become friends with a fabricator

[Proton]

In which spot do you mean?

After my battery failure I was thinking for future, to make modules of 16s or 32s encapsulated in lexan or some other type of plastic or fiber glass, so I can put 2 -3 of these long modules in parallel in a metal box.

[johu]

Tiny update, installed the DC cables. I'm much too cheap for a connector plus there's no room for it.
Still haven't finally decided on the BMS location. So far considering 3 alternatives which may or may not work:
a) Seal the BMS boxes with U-profiles filled with re-enterable gel and mount them outside the box - cables go through those squares I marked out
b) Bolt an extra box to the front of the big box and put the BMSes in there
c) Take the cover off the BMSes, fill them with gel and see if that fits inside the big box. Probably won't fit because mounting blocks are in the way.

[johu]

First trial fit with all the mounting blocks.
The upper row (which is the lower row in the picture because upside down) can go in module by module. The lower row I have to pre-assemble because once mounted I can't reach bus bar and mounting bolts. Then I have to lift all 4 modules up at once.

Also found a task for the 3 voltage inputs of the ISA shunt. They are all referenced against the shunt bus bar which sits between module 4 and 5. So say at 250V. Now one input will connect to charge port + and one to -. That way I can measure the charge port voltage and if a relay ever gets welded I can even sense which one.

The third input I could just tie to chassis GND maybe in parallel to a high value resistor chain. From the voltage that builds up I should be able to calculate isolation resistance - roughly. I'll definitely be able to detect shorts to GND.

[johu]

Some more work on the battery box. Cut some sidewalls from the top cover of the OEM housing. Bonus: it's got all the requisite stickers - upside down though. I mounted the ISA shunt in an extra IP67 plastic box. It bolts onto the bus bars that I managed to solder nuts to.

On the inside they have some nice gasket

In the front of the box I bolted some extra angle profile that I just cut out and bent on the 4 corners

Now need to wire up the ISA shunt and decide where and how CAN & 12V should exit the pack. Maybe some 4 pin round connector.

My current take is that I can pre-assemble the entire pack on dollies, roll it under the car and lift it up with my neighbors motor cycle jack.

On the other end I did a capacity test of the Nissan battery that is still in the car. If you hit me with a decent price I might sell it and otherwise use it in the next project.

[johu]

BMS is in da house

Also did the first trial fit and it is pretty much perfect. Only thing I didn't account for is the cross member bending downward on the outside. So the box doesn't sit flush on the beam but there is about 10mm distance. Will have to sleeve the bolts to prevent springiness.

[arber333]

Will have to sleeve the bolts to prevent springiness.

Those brackets look a bit on the light side. Are you sure they would hold on to the pack? What if you removed 2 of the 4 bolts for dissasembly? You think they will hold?

[johu]

Those brackets look a bit on the light side. Are you sure they would hold on to the pack? What if you removed 2 of the 4 bolts for dissasembly? You think they will hold?

Hmm it's the same brackets that have held the Nissan battery for 4 years now so I have some confidence. Which bolts do you mean that I could remove?

[geduxaz]

If you hit me with a decent price I might sell it and otherwise use it in the next project.

Hi. what is the config of Your current batt? 2x24kWh leaf gen2 batteries? What could be the price?

[uhi22]

The details of johus leaf battery are in the "classifieds": viewtopic.php?t=4494

[arber333]

Hmm it's the same brackets that have held the Nissan battery for 4 years now so I have some confidence. Which bolts do you mean that I could remove?

Brackets seem flimsy from photo perspective and length perpendicular seem a bit too much. I am sure you will properly support the box when you take the bolts out, thats all i wanted to remind you.
Also i want to remind you to make standoffs for the bracket-bolt-chassis joint. Do not let the bolts deform fittings or put side pressure on the chassis.

[johu]

I'll upload a video soon, then it should become clearer. Yes, while the bolts are not in I use a motor cycle jack to support it.
In total I have
a) the three brackets in the front
b) 4 M10 bolts in the middle (you drilled 3 of the holes, I added another one)
c) 2 larger brackets in the back

[johu]

Charge port upgrade complete Tight fit, had to butcher quite a bit

Now need to finish the battery upgrade to test. Can do a quick test with pyPLC of course

[johu]

Almost done
Little teaser:

Made the bottom cover on Saturday and also wired in Foccci. It nicely wakes up the important components and I'm only a test charge away from calling the CCS upgrade done.

On the battery side I have to close off the BMS compartment with a waterproof lid. Also need to make sure the BMS cables don't rub against the aluminium.


On the software side things are coming along well and the ISA shunt is just so much more precise than Nissans LBC. Still have to wire in the charge port measurement. Until then I'll use charger output voltage instead.
I charged with 3 kW for one hour but supposedly added 4 kWh when looking at the voltage change. So I'm assuming my SoC/voltage table is not matching yet.

[crasbe]

Charge port upgrade complete Tight fit, had to butcher quite a bit

Now need to finish the battery upgrade to test. Can do a quick test with pyPLC of course

Wow, where can you even get 98 octane electricity? High proof electrons

Maybe it's time for a new sticker

[johu]

You were sayin?

Found the reason for the dodgy SoC calculation. SoC is estimated once at startup and then after 100s no current. At startup the cell voltage values read low because they go through an IIR filter. So the start estimate is always too low.

[johu]

Oh look he is using his CHAdeMO port again

Really?

Yay CCS upgrade complete and working

[tom91]

How is the port held in place? I do not see any fasteners used, and you trimmed off the bottom two.

[johu]

To be improved
It can't move inward as it is touching a sidewall (video coming), it can't moved sideways because of the petrol tank flap thingy and it can't move out because the DC cables are inside a duct (they exit sideways) and that one is held on with a bolt.

[uhi22]

Yeah, great. But: The Touran lost it's unique "charge-connector-sidewards" feeling

[Bigpie]

I'm currently stuck in CCS mounting pain too. I've not taken a look at a load of CCS plugs, what sort of clearance is required around the port?
Currently thinking of mounting sideways and wonder if I'll have issues getting the plug in there?

[johu]

Yeah, great. But: The Touran lost it's unique "charge-connector-sidewards" feeling

Yeah no way to sustain that one

I've not taken a look at a load of CCS plugs, what sort of clearance is required around the port?

From plugs and charge inlets I have seen they don't widen all to soon so it can sit inward quite a bit. Sideways CHAdeMO has always worked well, if that firs for you, do it.

[uhi22]

Googling for
CCS plug dimensions
reveals some drawings. In your picture, I think there will be collision in the lower part, if the connector is short and goes downwards, like the Huber&Suhner on Numbat. Maybe cut the frame with the holes, to bring the inlet surface to the outer surface of the car, like Tesla and Johu do.