openinverter forum

This will be a really nice project, looking forward to the progress

Interesting, that this is interesting so I'll add some more transparency to this project: costs

Obviously the shell was already there, so I'll focus on just the costs of the EV stuff.

The BMW charging cable was 350 EUR converted from the polish currency That's the housing for the Zombieverter VCU

Great great great!!!

The battery is out of a Kona 2020 and has only covered 16.000 ish kilometers. So the SoH should be very good. I'll try to get it in the car the way it is with all the housing, but i doubt it'll fit even with severe bodywork to the shell of the car. So i assume I'll have to tear it down and use an aftermarket BMS like the Orion BMS again.

This time I really wanted to spend money on the battery as range is something that will actually determine how much you use the car, if you want to commute to places further away

I've spent 350 on the Zombieverter ECU
And 300 on the charging control ECU for the Tesla unit

The battery was 5400 EUR and shipping from the Netherlands 350EUR and also I bought 2 drive shafts out of 4 that i need, for 50EUR each.

Zapatero wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 3:56 pm The BMW charging cable was 350 EUR converted from the polish currency

A check question: Is that CCS socket 3 phase?

Zapatero wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 4:08 pm The battery is out of a Kona 2020 and has only covered 16.000 ish kilometers. So the SoH should be very good. I'll try to get it in the car the way it is with all the housing, but i doubt it'll fit even with severe bodywork to the shell of the car. So i assume I'll have to tear it down and use an aftermarket BMS like the Orion BMS again.

This time I really wanted to spend money on the battery as range is something that will actually determine how much you use the car, if you want to commute to places further away

The battery was 5400 EUR and shipping from the Netherlands 350EUR and also I bought 2 drive shafts out of 4 that i need, for 50EUR each.

Wery nice start, seems like there is coming another converted show magnet, car ! Battery choice is interesting, I haven't seen them in any conversion yet. Energy wise a great one but the modules are really big, will be quite hard to fit in (or under) saloon car. But we all have seen your crafmanship when you cut in half Nissan Leaf module so I don't think you have a problem with those modules also. Kona battery is liquid cooled from the bottom of the modules, will your install also include liquid cooling?
I don't understand do you build your conversion yourself or is it a team of engineers. Seems like there is a company behind your last project.

I assume the ccs port will be three phase as the I3 is capable of 3 phase charging.

Thanks!!!
I'm a one man show and i mostly build off-road campers. All the EV conversion stuff i also do alone, sometimes with the support of Johannes of course.

I plan on cooling the batteries, but I'll find out how when I work on it. I will have to separate the modules into single cells to install them. By single cell i mean 3 cells if course as they are arranged in 3 parallel cells. I also will have to spread them throughout the car again, but hopefully only in the back and in the front. Due to the fact that in this conversion there is no prop shaft and gearbox anymore, there will be a lot of more room to work with than in my GT86EV conversion.

Zapatero wrote: ↑Sun Mar 20, 2022 5:20 pm I assume the ccs port will be three phase as the I3 is capable of 3 phase charging.

Thanks!!!
I'm a one man show and i mostly build off-road campers. All the EV conversion stuff i also do alone, sometimes with the support of Johannes of course.

I plan on cooling the batteries, but I'll find out how when I work on it. I will have to separate the modules into single cells to install them. By single cell i mean 3 cells if course as they are arranged in 3 parallel cells. I also will have to spread them throughout the car again, but hopefully only in the back and in the front. Due to the fact that in this conversion there is no prop shaft and gearbox anymore, there will be a lot of more room to work with than in my GT86EV conversion.

I have a photo on the cells built and how you could go about sawing the parallel modules. Because first i tought about them too. For cooling i would advise you to go as simple as possible. More like big fans air flow type of cooling rather than water cooling.
I found thermal flow behaves really interestingly. Where there is drain, e.g. temp flow out of some space, then all of thermal mass will want to escape through that point. So what i figured i want to do is fit some fans on one side with holes on the other and pull the air through the box. Natural temp gradient will take care of cells in the middle as long as air flow is able to remove heat on the outsides of the pack.

Also dont forget cells are soft and car is vibration intensive enviroment. You wouldnt want to damage your cells by abrasion to cooling surfaces.
There is a thread on diyelectricar though, maybe you get an idea from it...
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/ ... ar.198305/

Very interesting! I don't want to separate the 3 cells. I will try to fit 96 of 98 of the 3-packs in the car as the Orion BMS only can do 96 cells, so approximately 1,6 kWh can't be installed.

I thought about actively controlled air cooling, too. The Orion BMS can monitor the temperatures and regulate the fan speeds.

What is inside that red circle? The three connectors? Just a mechanical attachment point or cell monitoring taps?

Thanks for your help

arber333 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 20, 2022 5:45 pm
There is a thread on diyelectricar though, maybe you get an idea from it...
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/ ... ar.198305/

Red the thread and it's very interesting. Thanks

One of my rear outlander motors that i bought for cancelled, so i had to find another one. Luckily i found one on allegro and contacted the seller to get the two missing driveshafts, the heater and the AC compressor. So HVAC is taken care of, already. Furthermore every HV connector will fit snuggly as everything is OEM. I love that OEM look. If someone pops the hood and can't tell that's a homemade conversion neither can when driving the car, that's what I try to achieve.

This sums up to just under 600 EUR for everything

I started to work on the Impreza and figured out, that one motor has to face forward and one backwards due to the limited space i have.
I will have to split the battery in 3 Parts: 36 cells in the back, 36 cells in the front and 24 cells in the middle where the fuel tank was. But it will fit.
I took the battery cover off, to measure the cells myself, alltough there is very good information in this forum (Kia/Hyundai section)
The Spare wheel well will be cut out completely to make room for the 36 cells.

I also inspected the switch from an 2013 Impreza WRX STi that i bought and found out the turning knob already is a resistor ladder. I then decided to convert the other buttons, too.

So a push on the button will start the car, a left turn forward mode and a right turn backward mode.
The diff + / - button will determine how much torque is going to the front and the rear wheels and the Auto / Manu button will reset it to 50/50.

Also it'll get painted black and with some custom stickers it'll indicate all functions labeled correctly.

What i don't know so far is, if the inverter is sending some information on the can bus, such as rpm. But i'm pretty sure it must. If yes i would like to implement slip control by comparing front RPM with rear RPM and reducing power of the higher RPM inverter until they are equal again. In Manual mode drifting will then be possible as this is only true for auto mode.

Sweet OEM look. This project is going to be awesome, looking forward to helping out.

Looks like there is RPM info on CAN viewtopic.php?p=24162#p24162

Thanks Johannes, you'll be a major part of the project as soon as it comes to software development!

Can anyone confirm if functionality of the motor in both directions is the same?

viewtopic.php?f=19&p=38817&sid=9f8d5cfc ... eab#p38817

Just posting to send general appreciation and cheerleading to an interesting project that's being well documented.

johu wrote: ↑Sun Apr 10, 2022 5:54 am Sweet OEM look. This project is going to be awesome, looking forward to helping out.

@ Johannes: As the analog Temperature-Gauge on my dashboard will not be used again, do you think the Zombieverter could drive a small display. Is that possible, to put that in that place instead?

If you find a CAN based one, yes
Anything else -> development needed

Zapatero wrote: ↑Sun Mar 20, 2022 5:20 pm I assume the ccs port will be three phase as the I3 is capable of 3 phase charging.

Check if you have 5pins in the socket. I thought I3 was single or dual phase.
Just trying to help

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Sun Apr 10, 2022 6:54 pm

Zapatero wrote: ↑Sun Mar 20, 2022 5:20 pm I assume the ccs port will be three phase as the I3 is capable of 3 phase charging.

Check if you have 5pins in the socket. I thought I3 was single or dual phase.
Just trying to help

I just had a closer look at it and you are right, it's single phase. It seems to be easily moddable to three phase. I'll post some info as soon as i'm working on the cable.

Ok, cool that would be useful

Yesterday i took the battery apart. To get 96 of the 98 Kona-Cells in the Impreza it'll be the same puzzle as it was on the GT86 Project.
Also i have to convert 6 of the 8 10S3P Blocks to 9S3P. Two of the Blocks are by factory 9S3P (8x 10S3P + 2x 9S3P = 98 Cells). The Orion BMS can only support 96 Cells in my version, so i won't use 2 of them which equals in 1,3 Kwh less.
Done taking the batteries out!
Water Cooling Plates on bottom, secured with a lot of screws and heat sink pad inbetween the cells and the cooling module.
Left: All 10 Battery Blocks
Right: Impreza-Drivetrain-Parts

Some details on the battery:
Interesting: I found this sensor, i guess it detects a leak of the cooling liquid
The relais-box with precharge, i'm going to reuse that of course
The Connectors i'm not reusing.
Shutoff-Plug with seperate fuse rated 400V 400A = 160Kw

The Outlander-Stuff:

1x AC-Compressor with Cables
1x Heater, also with Cables on HV and the Plug on 12V Side.
1x Junction box with 20A Fuse, where the Heater is connected to.
2x Inverter with all Cables and Plugs
2x Motor with all Cables and Plugs
4 x Drive shaft to be connected to the Impreza outer shafts

when buying this stuff i always try to get all the cables. That makes it so much easier to install and the looks are usually way more OEM-Style.
All Outlander Parts

The fuse box is nice to have

I Expected the motor to weigh less. It's 60 Kgs!

Zapatero wrote: ↑Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:07 am Yesterday i took the battery apart. To get 96 of the 98 Kona-Cells in the Impreza it'll be the same puzzle as it was on the GT86 Project.
Also i have to convert 6 of the 8 10S3P Blocks to 9S3P. Two of the Blocks are by factory 9S3P (8x 10S3P + 2x 9S3P = 98 Cells). The Orion BMS can only support 96 Cells in my version, so i won't use 2 of them which equals in 1,3 Kwh less.

I would advise you to make modules of 8S3P. It can be assembled up to 96S easily. Then you can get all sorts of proprietary BMS as well as DIY. My favourite BMS right now is active balancers from Hankzor store https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002 ... 1802NyGfjM
This one has 24S capability with active balancing and CAN communication.
I am working on a simple controler with OLED display. Together with ISA shunt it should be a complete management solution all in one VCU board.
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