openinverter forum

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Mon Jul 18, 2022 11:02 am Monitor temperature or even better cool it

Yes, of course. The Orion BMS has 8 temperature sensors that i will install over all the pack.
There then is a power limitation curve that degrades with rising temperature.

I've already done this in my EV86 Conversion

Also the Batteries will be Air-cooled.
I don't think i can actually realize the water cooling


On the OEM Vehicle there is a chiller that uses the AC to cool down the water that flows through the batteries - that's is without doubt the most efficient way of doing it. That's why on a real hot day the AC won't be able to deliver full power to the interiour

I started building the front Motor mount. While doing so i figured a very good place for the Charger would be in the propshaft tunnel of the car on the struts for the third motor mount. Any thoughts on that? The floor will be pretty much covered. Still i don't think the tesla charger will be waterproof enough for that mounting position... What do you guys think?

Again i cut both, the Subaru outer driveshaft and the Outlander inner driveshaft, where they theoretically would connect to each other.
I marked them and they are ready to be sent to motomax.pl again for a proper custom made driveshaft.

The front motor is finally in the car. everything goes slowly into the designated place. Allthough i think i have to mount the inverter for the rear motor in front, too. That means i need shielded high voltage cables all the way from the rear axle to the front. Does anyone has an address where i can buy shielded hv cables?
To support the third mount of the outlander motor i had to build a custom strut brace between the original gearbox mounts and the front suspension and engine mount.

https://eveurope.eu/en/product/lapp-olf ... -shielded/
https://www.elektromobilitaet-riester.d ... eh%C3%B6r/

I mounted all the switch gear in the exhaust tunnel and completely closed it off - as you saw. Never seen signs of corrrosion

I wouldn't run the inverter on to long distance it doesn't benefit nothing. You better mount it somewhere close like exhaust room, fuel tank and or boot space. The reason is our big difference in Nominal and peak power.

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Tue Jul 26, 2022 5:34 am I wouldn't run the inverter on to long distance it doesn't benefit nothing. You better mount it somewhere close like exhaust room, fuel tank and or boot space. The reason is our big difference in Nominal and peak power.

I gave this a thought and i agree with you. So i decided that i can sacrifice a bit of boot space for the inverter in the back!
The original Cable will fit perfectly that way

Yes; good job and then i ask why not upside down behind the engine? You recover full bootspace with that (at-least it's flat. Other option is behind that tail-light. Make cables long enough for easy removal for tail-light bulb. If you do stick with what you have got now i would go with mounting it on its side either against right flange or seats in front. It gives back some space and prevents putting stuff on the inverter.

Finally i came around doing some more work on the E-mpreza. I welded the subframe for the inverter.
Front driveshafts are on the way back from Poland from Motomax.pl and will be installed soon.

I started to install the rear battery-box, where now the inverter is attached, too. After thinking about the correct position of the inverter for a while i decided it is okay to sacrifice a bit of the trunk. I'm also going to cover this under a aluminum lid so that the inverter is safe.

the outlander rear diff is so compact in the subie engine bay. fits really nice... hmmm if i dont find a crosstrek hybrid gearbox... then maybe ill put one of these in the front of my brat, and the leaf motor in the rear...

I thought about the battery cooling and from my experiences with the EV86 i knew that when going on a long distance ride with multiple charging stops it'll be way quicker with cooled batteries. So after planning this for a while i found a way to integrate the water cooling kinda as it used to be before. I'll cut and weld the cooling plates where necessary, which seems feasible, as it is aluminum.

First step: Take the thermal pads off the cooling plates: The front drive shafts are back from Motomax.pl and as always they did excellent work:

Prepared the cooling plates for welding today. Tomorrow i'll stop by a radiator repair shop to have them weld a end piece on the plates that leads the water from one side to the other.

Cooling plates before cutting Cooling plates after cutting 20 (2x10) module cooling plate shortened. This already leads the water from the first to the second connector.
So this only has to be weld shut - fairly easy 19 (1x10 + 1x9) module cooling plate cut in half
the water needs to be directed from the first to the second connector by welding a square shaped pipe in the end 10 module cooling plate with the battery on it

I weighed the car yesterday to know how much more weight i can put in the car, especially how much weight there is left for the battery cells and how to distribute the batteries.

The german TÜV calculates 75Kg for each person and 5Kg of luggage for each person. That means i have 5 seats in my papers, so it would be 5*80Kg = 400 Kg. The maximum legal weight for the car is 1750 Kg, according to its papers. so my maximum weight would be 1350 Kg. But i don't need the fifth seat, so i'm calculating 320Kg. That means my max weight would be 1430Kg. Actual weight without the batteries but everything else except the Tesla Charger is 999Kg. I'm very happy with that! The Subaru will be around 130Kg heavier then before though.
But the weight distribution seems to be a perfect 50/50 after the conversion, according to the calculations: My friend is a self employed TÜV engineer who borrowed me these two very neat 3000€ expensive scales to weigh the car: I then put the drive shafts in and filled oil in the gearbox

Great work on the cooling plates, they look totally professional.
For weighing my car I bought four sets of bathroom scales for £10 each, put a large plank across them and lowered the car on the plank weighing one corner at a time.
It was a bit more hassle and probably not as accurate but worked well enough.

I installed the heater and the junction box for the AC and the DCDC. I bent, cut and welded more mounting brackets. All for the goal of the sweet OEM-Look!

My question is now: Was that a good idea to place it so close to the painted parts? Does it get very hot on the outside? Does anyone has experience with the heater in action?
Because bexander asked: The maximum with is 64cm from mount to mount (outermost side)

I don't have experience, yet, but since there is no warning sticker on it of temperature i bet it doesn't get that hot if you keep the flow going.

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Mon Sep 19, 2022 7:52 pm I don't have experience, yet, but since there is no warning sticker on it of temperature i bet it doesn't get that hot if you keep the flow going.

Exactly what i thought... no warning sticker means it can't be that bad

I shortened the cable for the heater to make it look nicely. For anyone using the Outlander PHEV parts, here's the polarity on the cables. But be aware: On the very short one i had to swap the pins, otherwise the polarity in the junction box would have been swapped. That is due to the fact that there are two sockets on the junction box and i'm using the one that used to be the output as an input. But in the picture of the box itself the polarity is correctly marked. it's just the cable! The fuses are always on the positive lead.
Swapped pins marked red. It's very easy to swap the pins.

I started to weld the rear battery box and tried to arrange some components on it.
Then i had a closer look at the relay assembly. What is all of your opinion on these thoughts:
This relay assembly is the last part in the battery before the power goes to the car over the connector.
That means, that if i plug the car in on a CCS charger it must switch the negative and the precharge relay on and then after a successful precharge it has to switch the positive relay on, too.
So are there any other relays on the OEM car, that have to turn on for charging on CCS?
That also means that the CCS station has to be able to turn on these relays in the battery box! The second relay in the upper left corner is switching HV through a fuse, but i don't know what's connected to this on the car side.

I don't know if it will help any but the eGolf had 4 contractors, two for driving and two for charging whereas the Nissan Leaf only had two but also had a physical emergency disconnect on the battery pack which the eGolf did not have.
Nice battery box BTW

Hello from the exile
Nissan also has 4 relays, 2 in the bat box, 2 in the PDM. You always need 4 otherwise your charge inlet would go live while in drive mode.
CCS as opposed to chademo has no physical control over contactors. That is a VCU job (or perhaps a CCS controller job)

I already bought the kilovac relays - so good to know i will need them

I planned to connect the CCS-Port before the relay assembly (with precharge). So i don't need to activate all 4 (or 5 including precharge) relays, instread only the 2 CCS relays. I did it that way with the CHAdeMO on my EV86. Would that be correct, too? Or whats the reason the manufacturers don't connect it to the battery and rather behind the battery and the relay assembly?

interesting to learn that CCS has no control over the relays, i assumed it would be the same like with CHAdeMO!

greetings back to the exile

What i did meanwhile:

Wig welded the battery box painted it black glued and riveted it in the Car View from underneath View from behind With bumper attached mounted the inverter in Place - threads already welded into the box for easy installment

Hm...
Great job on welding the rear box.
I would recommend you to fit an omega profile from the rear side so that when (yes when not if!) you hit a raised sidewalk it will be the omega that will carry the deformation not your battery box. Ask me how i know!
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/201 ... ttery-box/

Or observe the deformation...
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... o-exhaust/