openinverter forum

celeron55 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 7:09 pm Should we ask how much deadtime did the wise man Mr. Hübner set by default on his new Prius gen2 offering?

Isaac96 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 10:59 pm Can we measure OEM inverter deadtimes somehow? Maybe a Lexus transmission because those are being run by the original brain board still. I guess it's possible to measure deadtime of any inverter which is controlled over CAN. I wonder what Tesla is using for their parallel IGBT setup.

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:43 pm

celeron55 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 7:09 pm Should we ask how much deadtime did the wise man Mr. Hübner set by default on his new Prius gen2 offering?

ZERO of course!

xp677 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 10:39 pm

Bigpie wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:56 pm Do you know if the buck/boost has the unkillable Toyota spirit? If I inadvertently enabled high side and low side while playing with the atmega, would it ignore me and laugh or self destruct?

From experience with the GS unit, which I imagine is similar, the IPM should prevent this occurring. However I've had a GS converter self destruct with signs of a HV - Ground fault, after several hours (probably 20 or so hours) of testing. So I'm not sure how robust that protection is.

ZooKeeper wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 9:32 pm Unless I completely mis-understood the documented features of a Prius Inverter/Converter.... The boost feature both increases MG1/2 output during "regen" to get volts high enough to recharge the battery AND boost B+ to allow higher than pack voltage to drive MG1/2 according to power demand.

The converter bucks under regen to charge the battery with a "safe" voltage.
The converter boosts under load to drive the motors.
The generator (MG1) can be used to power the motor (MG2) directly through the DC bus.

johu wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 4:32 pm So in other words you cannot connect the battery to the original 201V input and run the inverter via the boost inductor. Like "B+ -> inductor -> diode -> inverter" AND expect this to maintain good (>30kW) power output? Or does 30kW just refer to the boost converter actually operating?
And that would mean you can not use the buck/boost stage as a battery charger while using the inverter as inverter.

The '30kW' refers to what the inductor can carry. So if there is just DC passing through it, you can think of it as a wire resistor.
If there is a voltage across it, that will be because there is a change of current. Change of current times Inductance equals voltage. Power is voltage times current, so the higher the voltage at the same current, the higher the power. Hope that makes sense, kind regards.
The 30kW rating is down to the max current the converter IGBTs can withstand, and how effective their cooling is. If you wanted to run the car solely through the converter, you'd need to suitably fuse it to protect the converter. This is one of the reasons why you can drive in battery mode at low speeds, but as soon as you try to accelerate, the engine starts up.

You could use the converter as an interface to a battery charger, if it suits the project, and if the voltages are suitable, but you'd be limited to 30kW again.

IIRC, some Prius converters are smaller than 30kW.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:20 pm Update time. Got a CT200h inverter which is exactly the same as a Prius Gen3 inverter on the outside but actually uses the same logic board as the Auris/Yaris inverter. So fitted an Auris/Yaris board, made some simple code to buck the 360v down to 220v to run the dcdc converter, added some DEADTIME! to the settings, installed in the car annnddd....no bangs so far.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:20 pm Observations : used the old connection points to see if it would explode. So far not. Will update on this.