openinverter forum

I'll add my resolver to the list,
35.7R Black, White
85.0R Green, Red
77.2R Yelow, Blue

Sadly I spotted moisture damage on the resolver connector so I'll be abandoning it for some other solution.
The photo does not show up the tell-tale blue/green powder indicating corrosion of the crimp connector. This might explain why the motor was for sale on ebay without a gearbox attached. Although I didn't spot that until after I bodged up a connector for testing and is not intended for any serious use.
I noticed the connector pitch was 2.54mm x 5.02mm which matches the holes in prototyping board and plenty of PCB connectors.
the pins are flat plate rather than a square pin so rather fragile when bodging anything to them. An IC socket grips the pins whereas the other connector of the sort you have around the edge of an Arduino did not because the pins are flat plate rather than a square section pin. I'll reinforce this is not a long term or serious solution and just for testing.
I thought I'd share this as no one has found a replacement connector yet.

Well i can confirm now...
Outlander rear motor is in fact 10 pole motor
It is equipped with 10 pole resolver.
I ran it with Johannes inverter and i didnt have any problems with jumpiness.
I was cautious at first when i was setting up resolver offset. Just in case... It did only take 3A id current to rotate and when i found 15000pt it stopped rotating.
For this video i have rpm limit at 200Hz (2500rpm), later i rotated at 400Hz (4800rpm) and later 600Hz (7600rpm)
EDIT: above 400Hz in reverse i can feel some rough running. One time at 800Hz in reverse it also tripped OC limit!

I think it would be safe to add parameter "reverse speed limit [Hz]" Johannes!

arber333 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 8:26 pm I ran it with Johannes inverter and i didnt have any problems with jumpiness.

Now that looks great, time to get this into a setup where you can start loading up the motor.

tom91 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 8:37 pm Now that looks great, time to get this into a setup where you can start loading up the motor.

Sadly i dont expect this motor to go into any car soon. It will remain as my test bed for testing various inverters.
I will try rear inverter CAN control with it as soon as i receive the inverter here...

Next will be dual IGBT Volt inverter drive! I need 1000A out of my Volt inverter .
Then inverter goes into my Pug to drive a Leaf motor!

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Sun Mar 08, 2020 11:42 am It's a Hirose GT18WB-14DS-HU. Digikey and Mouser both list it, but with longish lead times. I've also found it at specialist automotive connector suppliers, but also only to order.

I've found the Hirose sample request page. I've had overall good results when requesting samples like this from companies that have special lines made to order etc. I won't be following it up myself as my motor has water damage and visible corrosion in the socket so it's going to be easier for me to simply replace it all.
https://www.hirose.com/us/additional/sa ... ml?lang=en

Theese are my parameters to drive Outlander motor using Ampera inverter with resolver.
Whoever will use my parameters needs to consider next....

1. Current sensors are from Ampera inverter. I use 3pt gain
2. Voltage is 370Vdc, current settings are up to 500A, but i dont see more than 50Arms when starting
3. Resolver is native 10 pole. Motor is 10pole as well so you need to set 5 pole pairs for both.
4. Syncoffset for my motor is cca 15000 which is natiuve to that motor. Still there is enough similarity in other pictures that it is a safe bet to try this.

I am certain there is more... it will come to me.

Has anyone found a source for those connectors so far? I just got quoted 150 quid for one by a breakers.

If not I'll try and look into it. Maybe get a bulk order for all those who follow.

LRBen wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 12:37 pm Has anyone found a source for those connectors so far? I just got quoted 150 quid for one by a breakers.

Have you tried the samples form I linked to a couple of posts above? (You might have to register an account)
Most companies are quite generous with handing out samples in 1s and 2s and I've been able to repair odd equipment using them including a smd 50way breakout connector for the Toyota inverter board, however not tried it with this company.

Personally I'm not going down that route as the connector on my motor is water damaged and I'm going to replace it with a gland and cable into the motor as I cant justify replacing both and keeping it standard for the sake of it.

Mouse wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 2:34 pm Have you tried the samples form I linked to a couple of posts above? (You might have to register an account)
Most companies are quite generous with handing out samples in 1s and 2s and I've been able to repair odd equipment using them including a smd 50way breakout connector for the Toyota inverter board, however not tried it with this company.

Personally I'm not going down that route as the connector on my motor is water damaged and I'm going to replace it with a gland and cable into the motor as I cant justify replacing both and keeping it standard for the sake of it.

I did take a look at that link, but unfortunately it looks like it's only for North and South America. Cable and gland does seem like a good option.

I see i could easily make a new flat plug and put 8 pin Liycy cable through it. It would work on both sides. It would require to make a circular plug on a lathe and make a groove for O ring. Then i could use a large flat washer to hold the plug down against the casing. It is the same connector on both sides so i would just use a through cable and 8pin sealed connector here.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMP-TE-Tyco- ... SwXIFcmdZ0

LRBen wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 4:19 pm I did take a look at that link, but unfortunately it looks like it's only for North and South America.

Oh that's a disappointment, I didn't take it that far and just assumed it was global.

Arber333 sounds like he has a good plan for an alternative solution.

As previously stated, the connector housings are available from Digikey and Mouser, however the pins are only available in multiples of 10,000.

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 5:32 pm As previously stated, the connector housings are available from Digikey and Mouser, however the pins are only available in multiples of 10,000.

How many of us want connectors for these we could do a lot of conversions with 10k pins

On a more serious note I bought some of the connectors a few months back still waiting I presume the 16 weeks will be extended too because of this corona I will try a few pins off other connectors when they eventually arrive!

I went down the Liycy cable route in the end. Designed new cover to replace the original connector that will fit an m12 cable gland. Uses the original O ring to seal.
I'll test fit this on the weekend and update this post.
Edit: It fits really well!

STL file is here if anyone wants to try it first. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4557232

Also hoping to have this running from a Prius gen 2 inverter this weekend. Updates to follow...

I have the motor running on the Prius gen 2 inverter. This is just in manual mode for now. Still need to tune it all in and get the throttle plugged in.

But it seems quite smooth once it's moving.

Thats great! I like to watch all types of salvaged parts come to a new life as "hybrids"

great work on getting the motor turning, what are you using for power? have you got a battery pack or running it from a lab power pack?

pickmeup wrote: ↑Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:39 pm have you got a battery pack or running it from a lab power pack?

I have it hooked up to the 48v battery in my quad bike. It's the highest voltage battery I have and it means I can also use the precharge system without having to make one up for it.

LRBen wrote: ↑Sat Aug 01, 2020 7:24 pm I have the motor running on the Prius gen 2 inverter. This is just in manual mode for now. Still need to tune it all in and get the throttle plugged in.

But it seems quite smooth once it's moving.

Again great work, perhaps you can help me.

I Also hookup up my Outlander rear motor and Gen2 inverter on FOC, but struggling to get the resolverd wired correctly.
today the motor gives a shock one time and then inverter starts to make sound with drawing a lot of current from battery. I used the resolver pinout from Arber333.
How to determine the + and - so to say (or the right phasing) about the resolver?
for example did you tight green and yellow together on pin 2 or red and blue together on pin 2?

Bram wrote: ↑Fri Aug 07, 2020 11:30 am
Again great work, perhaps you can help me.

I Also hookup up my Outlander rear motor and Gen2 inverter on FOC, but struggling to get the resolverd wired correctly.
today the motor gives a shock one time and then inverter starts to make sound with drawing a lot of current from battery. I used the resolver pinout from Arber333.
How to determine the + and - so to say (or the right phasing) about the resolver?
for example did you tight green and yellow together on pin 2 or red and blue together on pin 2?

I'll take a look tomorrow when I am there and get back to you on that. I can't remember off the top of my head.
I found that on throttle my motor is a bit more unsteady, it will also sometimes not move and draw a bit of current. But I am not sure how much of that is to do with the PWM wires on the control board being wired wrong at the moment.

LRBen wrote: ↑Fri Aug 07, 2020 11:46 am
I'll take a look tomorrow when I am there and get back to you on that. I can't remember off the top of my head.
I found that on throttle my motor is a bit more unsteady, it will also sometimes not move and draw a bit of current. But I am not sure how much of that is to do with the PWM wires on the control board being wired wrong at the moment.

Thanks, meanwhile I've figured it out. Made a "mistake". took the colors and pinout from Arber333, but its seems they correspond with wiring colors from the black connector (outside motor), while I looked at the colors from the white resolver connector(inside motor), they have the same colors, but when the white connects to the black connector it switch colors. but we are good, we have a really nice signal right now.

About the PWM wired wrong, was MWU always high and didn't swing as the other 2 phases, with the adjustment its all good.

found also something about throttle set up, that maybe helps, ingnore the can. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=683&hilit=manualid&start=20#p10700

will start tomorrow with the throttle myself.

Looks like bad news on the inverter and motor connectors after about 2 months on back order digikey have just cancelled the order stating that they are no longer being made but replaced by a different part number. The new part number is totally different

So, update on getting the Outlander inverter to drive the motor. Need to have pin 13 (IGCT) on the Grey connector (D-211) connected to +12V to wake up the inverter. Inverter also appears to monitor pin 12 (RSDN), and reports this on CAN 0x289 byte 8 (not connected is 04, connected is 00)

Have got the inverter hooked up with the motor and can see CAN messages from the inverter.
If we put HV on the inverter, can see this reported on message 0x289 byte 5&6
If we rotate the motor by hand, can see values changing on 0x289 byte 3&4
If you apply force to the motor shaft, you can see values on 0x732 byte 7&8

From info I found on the outlander forum, there appears to be a CAN message which is Torque request - 0x11F, but sending values on this message don't appear to have any effect.

I suspect either I'm sending the incorrect command message, or I'm missing an interlock message or status message from another controller. Have also got the BMU hooked up and can see messages from that, but have tried spoofing those IDs with various values to no avail. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

If you rotate the motor with your hand, that would be same as regen right? So my guess is that it will show as negative torque to ask for regen? I know nothing but it sound like that to me consider my option and please correct me if I am wrong, everybody wins

I have done a little messing with the rear inverter here's some of the output messages I have figured and found on other places on the Web and semi comfirmed. (I gave up typing in and just took a photo sorry for being lazy)