openinverter forum

Ev8 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 29, 2023 5:41 pm Only adjustment available is between solid or flashing light when decelerating, I never found any cheaper alternatives that actually used an accelerometer to trigger a brake light, there are lots of cheap brake light flashers on eBay but they just make an existing switch input into a flashing output, maybe you’ve found something else

yes you probably right about the cheaper version, I have been impressed with the company fast delivery being overseas, I bought some LED Motorbike mirrors, which where good quality. Think I might get one
Thanks

I'm in the US, and I'm having trouble finding a supplier for 50mm2 shielded cable in orange with a 600v rating.

I've found a couple of retailers overseas (UK), but they're either out of stock or don't ship to the US.

Note that I prefer not to substitute 1/0 AWG for 50mm2, though if a supplier of shielded 1/0 AWG can be found, perhaps I'd reconsider.

https://shop.fellten.com/shop/hvc50mm-5 ... ategory=55 https://citini.com/product/hv-cable-50-mm2/ In the US:
https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_ ... cts_id=466&
Where do you get yours?

Could just get any color of cable, and then suitably sized orange heatshrink, or, ghetto, electrical tape.

Shorter question: where to buy shielded cable, 50mm2, from the US.

Does the cable need to be shielded?
I planned to buy the cable at Menards and wrap it with orange electrical tape.
I am also adding CCS1 to my 2014 RAV4 EV.

Over at viewtopic.php?p=56019 I asked if the DCFC leads needed to be shielded. OEMs I've seen (BMW, Tesla) use shielded leads from the charge inlet, but I would think that there wouldn't be significant EMI while charging -- unlike the leads feeding eg the AC drive inverters. I posed that question on another forum as well, but didn't receive anything concrete in return.

I've decided to spend the extra coin for shielded cables anyway. If the OEMs are shielding the DCFC leads, they probably have a reasonably good reason. I think unshielded leads for the DCFC runs would work OK, but I'm not 100% certain, and while the cost difference of shielded vs non- is real, plus the effort to install EMC cable glands and use a metal HVJB rather than plastic, it's not so large as to foul the project.

Color marking of the leads is a separate issue. When purchasing cable, make sure it's rated for 600v AC/1000v DC, not residential wiring stuff, or low-voltage marine/automotive, which is 60v DC max. And the color is immaterial for those of us in the US, as we don't have to have our conversions/additions inspected as do some of our European counterparts: we can have any color cables we choose; they are required to use correct jacket colors and HV warning labels.

After hours online attempting to find retail sources of shielded 50mm2 cable that can be shipped to a US address, I just now ordered 8 meters of Coroflex FHLR2GCB2G 9-2611 from https://eveurope.eu/en/product/coroflex ... aat=50+mm2 (datasheet), which ran USD$313; I've just emailed them to see if they'll refund the VAT ($52), as it appears that export goods may not need to charge VAT. [later: they did refund the VAT ]

---

On the RAV4 EV & CCS1, if you haven't already, see:

viewtopic.php?p=53385#p53385
and
viewtopic.php?p=53344#p53344

Simon owns a RAV4 EV and is working on CAN for our RAV4s. He's planning on installing a NACS inlet and using the BMW i3 LIM method, while I've got a CCS1 inlet here on my livingroom floor (later edit: NACS charge port), and I'm going with a QCA700x/AR7420 (HomePlug) system. I'm working on installing hardware (well, obtaining hardware ATM). Here's a teaser:




Project thread

asavage wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17, 2023 4:00 pm ..... Here's a teaser:

HVJB_idea_Inline_02b.png

I think you should consider a pre-charge circuit....

The pre-charge is already handled by the Tesla BMS, which in Tesla fashion is integral to the 860 lb. HV pack assy (represented by the right-facing blue arrow in that diagram above).

This project is modifying an existing OEM EV, to add CCS1 DCFC, so I'm integrating with a lot of things that already exist. The challenge ahead is configuring a MiTM "golem" to spoof the OBC's CAN comms with the BMS and the rest of the vehicle.

By comparison, adding an inlet port, cables, contactors, HVJB, and the PLC comms are a well-trod path.

asavage wrote: ↑Sat Jul 15, 2023 4:54 am I'm in the US, and I'm having trouble finding a supplier for 50mm2 shielded cable in orange with a 600v rating.

I've found a couple of retailers overseas (UK), but they're either out of stock or don't ship to the US.

Note that I prefer not to substitute 1/0 AWG for 50mm2, though if a supplier of shielded 1/0 AWG can be found, perhaps I'd reconsider.

https://shop.fellten.com/shop/hvc50mm-5 ... ategory=55
image.png

https://citini.com/product/hv-cable-50-mm2/
image.png

In the US:
https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_ ... cts_id=466&
image.png


Where do you get yours?

I used the shielded 1/0 AWG from EVWest but I didn't have a supply issue at the time I bought it.

I ended up buying from EV Europe:
https://eveurope.eu/en/product/coroflex-flexible-orange-battery-cable-shielded/

I've got 8m/26'/USD$313 that arrived on my doorstep in the US, seven days after ordering.

If anyone in the UK is looking for multicore for BMS connections I found this from CEF.
https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/product ... by-the-mtr

They have a good range of Multicore with different sizes and numbers of cores but the Nissan Leaf BMS cable is also 0.5mm2 so I figured it would be OK.
In my case I wanted to connect the 40 cells at the front of the car to the BMS in the rear so I bought 15m of 0.5mm2 25 core for only £66 delivered.

I already used successfully my Nissan Quest 2008 Throttle pedal.
Based on the Connector numbering I used pin 3-5-7. Pin 4 and 8 are not used.
1-2-6 Black - White - Orange
3-5-7 Green - White/Black - Red/Blue < ----------- the one I used.

PIN 1 - Black
PIN 2 - White
PIN 3 - Green - Negative -
PIN 5 - White/Black - Signal
PIN 6 - Orange
PIN 7 - Red/Blue - Positive +

Based on the Connector numbering I used pin 3-5-7.

I am going to use a DC/DC converter TDK like the mentioned here.

I know i can start it without 12v battery, but could someone confirm it has upper voltage to 397vDC and if it is possible to continously work without 12v battery, so avoid to install 12v batt in my conversion ?
thanks

Cookie6000 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:56 pm I had this in my thread but I thought I would add it in here to the Hardware thread. DC/DC converter I am using is the TDK unit from the AZD Transit Connect conversions. I gathered a lot of the info from various locations including from lars rengersen who fitted one to his Amazon.
20200913_113327v2.jpg
100A water cooled (I did read somewhere that it was 80A if air cooled, tbc).The control pins:
Pin 1 is to disable. Pulling the enable pin to ground, turns off the power supply. Good direction from Lars here was to enable Pin 1 only after precharge is complete as you want the precharge energy to go do the inverter capacitors and nothing else. I actually tried this out inadvertently earlier and sure enough, the main connector wont close if the DC/DC is operating.
Pin 3 controls the output voltage. Not connected it is 14.5v. Pulled to ground is 13.8v.
Pin 6 is a fault pin. Not connected and have not found anyone who uses it yet.
The connector can be found on Alibaba - 90980-11658 10 hole Transmission solenoid valve plug for TOYOTA
http://www.kinkong-connector.com/produc ... ID898.html
90980-11658.JPG
More info here on the unit.
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/ ... ter.91682/

chentron wrote: ↑Mon Aug 14, 2023 12:12 pm I am going to use a DC/DC converter TDK like the mentioned here.

I know i can start it without 12v battery, but could someone confirm it has upper voltage to 397vDC and if it is possible to continously work without 12v battery, so avoid to install 12v batt in my conversion ?
thanks

The question I would ask is... how do you turn any of your systems on without a 12v source? How would you start an ICE car with only an alternator? To get your 400v supply, you need to switch relays, close contactors... which needs a 12v feed. There are multiple other reasons you need a 12v battery. Having a battery prevents inrush current from damaging other components. The likes of BMS, inverters, etc need perm 12v feed (KL30) before the ignition (KL15)

the source for 12v is the TDK DC converter. It connects directly to the main circuit in the car. I have other 12v circuit that only goes up when I power on the principal key, feeding my openinverter v2.
I could install a small 12v battery for absorb inrush currents if it is absolutely needed, but that is why I asked opinions of what is doing other people, because without it I am not missing anything in my old basic `99 car.
cookie6000: I am aplying earth(pin - of TDK dc converter) to pin 1 as you said in the original info from 2 years ago, but the DC converter doesnt stop. Is there some trick to disable ?
************

EDIT: I solved about disable this tdk dc converter. Pin 6 (not pin 1as specified cookie6000) is the one to disable the dc converter.

Cookie6000 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 9:44 am The question I would ask is... how do you turn any of your systems on without a 12v source? How would you start an ICE car with only an alternator? To get your 400v supply, you need to switch relays, close contactors... which needs a 12v feed. There are multiple other reasons you need a 12v battery. Having a battery prevents inrush current from damaging other components. The likes of BMS, inverters, etc need perm 12v feed (KL30) before the ignition (KL15)

chentron wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 11:52 am the source for 12v is the TDK DC converter. It connects directly to the main circuit in the car. I have other 12v circuit that only goes up when I power on the principal key, feeding my openinverter v2.
I could install a small 12v battery for absorb inrush currents if it is absolutely needed, but that is why I asked opinions of what is doing other people, because without it I am not missing anything in my old basic `99 car.
cookie6000: I am aplying earth(pin - of TDK dc converter) to pin 1 as you said in the original info from 2 years ago, but the DC converter doesnt stop. Is there some trick to disable ?
************

EDIT: I solved about disable this tdk dc converter. Pin 6 (not pin 1as specified cookie6000) is the one to disable the dc converter.

I had the same conversation with Lars about the enable pin for him on his TDK. Mine was Pin 1, his was Pin 6. After bench testing, I could never get Pin 6 to act as the enable and Pin 1 is the one I have used all this time with no issues.
Re the 12v, sounds like you are all ok as your using the cars 12v battery. You just need that feed to power the enable relay in charge/discharge modes. Simples!

I was at Cenex LCV yesterday and one of the interesting conversations I has was with AIS.

They produce a fire protection fabric that can be applied inside a battery case. It is not expensive and offcuts are available for evaluation.

https://www.aisltd.com/product/flexichar/q57/

This connector from Nissan fits the Tesla water pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z5 ... 120L&psc=1

Proton wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 8:29 pm This connector from Nissan fits the Tesla water pump.

Yes, I noted that last year:
viewtopic.php?p=46064#p46064

asavage wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 8:45 pm Yes, I noted that last year:
viewtopic.php?p=46064#p46064

I see now. I just used the connector I had on my Nissan before and looked it up online.

This is mine from Nissan

Proton wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 8:29 pm This connector from Nissan fits the Tesla water pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z5 ... 120L&psc=1

Screenshot from 2023-10-03 16-27-00.png
Tesla water pump.jpg
61K3eO4ITfL._SX425_.jpg
516Z56+itfL._SX38_SY50_CR,0,0,38,50_.jpg

Both companies use the same pump. I posted a way to control the speed of it here.
viewtopic.php?t=2906

Alibro wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 10:21 pm Both companies use the same pump. I posted a way to control the speed of it here.
viewtopic.php?t=2906

I harvested very similar pumps from Ford Focus Electric and using in my build. Connector and controls are the same. Current draw at full speed (measured with PWM in floating) - just over 3A. Don't know if the flow rate is the same, since the current draw is half of that for the Tesla pumps - reported 7A by lars.

In general I find Ford Focus Electric parts are similar to Tesla, but are cheaper.

I'm also using the coolant 3-way valves from the for Ford Focus Electric.
I found that the connector and wiring is the same. Dimensions are the same, but the fluid diverting scheme is different.
Lars did a great job describing those used in Tesla: https://www.evcreate.com/using-tesla-th ... -way-valve
In the Ford Focus Electric the valve behaves different. Here're my finding:

For testing, It can only do 40W to 50W

40V to 400V DC to 12V DC

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568050 ... pt=glo2usa
Input : DC 40-400V Output 12V 3A

AC 70-265V
size : 70x36x30mm
Input DC voltage (V) Output DC voltage (V) Current (A) Power (W)

36V 12V 2.00A 24.00W

48V 12V 2.70A 33.60W

60V 12V 3.20A 43.20W

70V 12V 3.50A 48.00W

84-400V 12V 4.00A 55.20W <------------------------------


.

I just found out the P/N of the UP32 vacuum pump connector
You can get it on aliexpress
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/10050017 ... pt=glo2deu
Male 7282-5596-10
Female 7283-5596-10