openinverter forum

and then it was S&K Steel Time aka SKST


so this is the kind of remnants they have, and at first I thought this frisbie disc would work but turns out it was not sliced straight


so then I spied this 1/2" thick by 10" wide and about 30" long plate which I had cut into two squares for a crisp Ulysses S. Grant !

so here's some pics for you to gnaw on whilst I editing the 3rd half of the Input Shaft Lock Out video series, ISLO


the two 1/2" plate cake

final, final assembly will be held down with ocho M10 bolts for super strengthability, making it burn out certified

a little EV Conversion budgetory maths

so just when I thought Metric was nicer than [ahem] Standard I learned you all can't make up your mind on thread pitch or size or whaterver with M12s coming in, in THREEEEEE different thread sizes: 1.25, 1.50, and 1.75


People's Exhibit A.

and here's a little price comparison of silver vs gold bolts in the same size and thread

Silver and gold you say?.. That's not bad for "Oh good they have it!" prices.

I suspect they all come from China regardless of where you get them so I tend to buy my hardware from Ebay and Amazon.
That way I can buy 10 items for the local price for 2 and have spares for next time.

on this episode we make sure: "That aint going anywhere!"





very happy to have this gear box hanging under it's own weight

next it was time to beat this ol' girl into submission software style, we want to test for strange noises such as grinding by spinning each motor by itself before spinning them together


my VCU Vehicle Control Unit predates the Zombieverter


so I will use the Arduine IDE (pronounced: notepad on steroids) to fandangle the code

here is how I've been driving around so far on MG2 only (ie MG1 disabled)



and here is how with Artur's help we've disabled MG2 (for testing purposes only)

keep in mind MG1 does not power the wheels in Reverse by default

GMC Electric Truck Lexus Input Shaft Locked Testing

listening for any strange sounds or noises now that we can spin both motors

here are the six modules from one of the two BMW 530e (circa July 2019-present) 12 kWh battery packs in their native Mayan pyramid formation


here they are connected with the high voltage orange cables

these are the OEM cables that BMW uses to connect these six modules inside the battery pack


and this is a parts number list for all high voltage orange cables found inside the BMW 530e battery pack

#1 Part Number: 61278621016 Main Negative (runs from Cell Module #1 to the Safety Box #8 front connector)

#2 Part Number: 61278621017 Connects Cell Module #2 to Cell Module #3

#3 Part Number: 61278621018 Connects Cell Module #3 to Cell Module #4

#4 Part Number:61278621019 Connects Cell Module #4 to Cell Module #5

#? Part Number:??????????? Connects Cell Module #5 to Cell Module #6

#5 Part Number: 61278621020 Main Positive (runs from Cell Module #6 to the Safety Box #7 front connector)

#6 Part Number: 61278618444 Connects Cell Module #1 to Cell Module #2

===========================================================

#7 Part Number: 61278650791 External Connector Positive

#8 Part Number: 61278650793 External Connector Negative

and here are the six modules flattened out and arranged how I want them in my truck in pancake formation

and here are the two packs in omelette formation, one will be mounted right side up, and the other one left side up??

I go over all of this in this amazing new video:

GMC Electric Truck BMW 330e 530e Battery Packs UPGRADE

so here are all the ways I thought of connecting the six modules in flatened (I refuse to use double letters in words any more as part of my new years resolutions) out formation

I think this one is my favorite and what I went with

(please note how the orange cables stick out beyond the borders of the battery pack, keep that in mind when constructing your battery boxes, you must allow some room all the way around the perimeter for cabling, and not perfectly hug the modules, this is something I always think of when folks tell me these modules need to hug one another or be sandwiched tight between battery box walls to prevent expansion/bulging etc.)


not feeling that module 3 to 4 linkadilius

this is just Coo Coo

Even tried some single pack stackability ideas for tighter spaces

honestly not sure what I was going for here as this was 3 years ago to the day, maybe this is just the other side of the one above?

So what's your favortie?

I like Coo Coo. Fewest cables on the outside, artsy on the inside.
Bulging ain't no topic with modules. How much more structure could you want...

johu wrote: ↑Sat Jan 11, 2025 10:27 pm I like Coo Coo. Fewest cables on the outside, artsy on the inside.
Bulging ain't no topic with modules. How much more structure could you want...

somehow I knew you would say that, but there is no room for error in that [ahem] German simplicity




note the orange tie, for HV nice touch if I do say so myself

then it was off to Home Depot to think on how I was going to connect the two negative battery pack cables into one input terminal on the BMW Safety Box


hmmm I wonder if these T Type Conduit can do it (see what I did there?)

not knowing which one would be more better I procured them both and proceeded to the Goldilocks phase of the project

things escalated quickly as they often do

but soon order was restored, and here's the general idea


these be just reducers to make for a tighter hole opening for the orange cables to fit snugger and maybe even water tight, I plan to glue them in with the special rubber cement for gray plastics

I stir up some controversy and prove it takes a village to help this fool with a tool get through the next phase of this project in this video...





gentlemen I am extremely proud of this Negative Lead T Connection so please precipitate on my parade lightly

ah yup, you can spend a lifetime on the CANTEX website configuring and reconfiguring in your head the different electrical PVC cable conduit solutions ... (from what I hear)

so continuing to beat the sBox dead horse to death, here is what the negative connection looks like inside the OEM BMW Safety Box ie the contactor box, before the negative lead coming from the battery pack reaches the "negative" contactor [note: both the positive and negative contactors are the exact same pieces of kit, and can be used interchangeably, we just call one negative and the other positive for reference, sometimes the positive contactor is called the "Main" contactor] it goes through a current shunt, shunt meaning sensor

I demonstrate with the stand alone ISA shunt, but the one in the box is an integrated into the Circus board type

the ISA shunt unlike a fuse, circuit breaker, or contactor even does not protect nor control current flow by opening and closing, it is just a hard wired permanent connection that is always "On" it just senses what voltage and current is flowing through it


over simplified example of what the Negative Connection through the sBox looks like


what the actual sBox integrated into a circuit board current shunt looks like

the actual Gen 1 (9 kWh) battery pack sBox guts showing the negative current bus bar running through the current shunt

and on to the glass is half full connection of the sBox

Note: on the positve lead we have a 350 amp 450 volt fuse, BMW used the same fuse on both the Gen 1 (9 kWh) and Gen 2 (12 kWh) battery packs




showing the Positive bus bars and the fuse in the OEM first gen BMW sBox

NOBODY: "Greg please continue to bore us all to death with these excruciating details of the sBox"

Me: so here are both the glass is half empty and the glass is half full leads

now you know noffin' goes to waste around these parts, so... time to make some shorties for sporties

and this may come as a shock to you all, but there aint no video of me making these.... Yet !