That's a fix not a bodge! A bodge would be wires soldered to the pins (possibly with hot melt glue or epoxy to reinforce it).
Don't get me wrong here, it's great to see things being done properly!
That's a fix not a bodge! A bodge would be wires soldered to the pins (possibly with hot melt glue or epoxy to reinforce it).
Not the case, because I still have the AC coupling capacitors. You have just pointed out exactly why I *shouldn't* remove them though!
Good point!
Looks ideal. Are you going to add something to support the cables (the interface between the soldered and stranded part of the cable is very susceptible to vibration)?
Curious what it's like at the far end, with the smaller capacitors it could be worse.catphish wrote: ↑Sat Jul 09, 2022 12:24 pm Waveforms as promised. Here's a capture of a multi-byte transmission followed by a single byte reception as seen at the differential receiver. The second capture is a close up of a received byte. The transforrmer is definitely making the pull resistors a lot more impactful, almost to the point where at the end of the byte the differential voltage is pretty small.
PXL_20220709_121428752.jpg
PXL_20220709_121646050.jpg
That should work. If you don't already use it I'd recommend the adhesive lined stuff for use on cars. Keeps the moisture out and also does a better job of strain relief. The 4:1 shrink ratio stuff also makes life a lot easier.
It actually seems that a lot of this was my scope. Switched to 10x scope probe and the waveform looks somewhat different (notice 2V rather than 1V scale), and with twice as much differential voltage. 2V isn't nearly the desirable 10V but good enough for communication to work reliably it seems.
Yep I've been using this stuff, really makes a difference. The differential signal on the other (battery) side of the transformer looks excellent.
My probes are certainly cheap, and when I was testing previously, lots of configurations didn't work at all when probes were connected.Pete9008 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 09, 2022 1:00 pm Well spotted. Much better!
Can't see a good reason why it would be better on the battery side though??
I try to never use 1x on a scope probe. Generally the only time I ever switch mine to 1x is if I'm using them backwards to feed a signal in from a sig gen (not recommended practise but often convenient!). Too much capacitance, you get the scope input capacitance, plus the lead capacitance, plus the probe capacitance, it can be as much as 100pF on a cheap probe - it can do a lot of damage on a high frequency high impedance signal!
Edit - just worked it out ~800R impedance on a 2MHz signal!
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. Can you confirm exactly what batteries you have? Do you have a photo?
I built a new batch of these boards for Silent Classics this week. I updated the board to have 2 x battery interfaces and an Ethernet transformer integrated. I haven't tested this yet, but the performance should be the same as my external transformer setup.
Now I have to say sorry for my late reply!
I've been wanting to know for a long time where these batteries come from, so thanks for confirming what car yours are from. It's good that you got the whole battery pack, because assuming it's the same pack as mine, it should come with a really high quality set of fuses and contactors. Are you running the full 3 x strings of 6 modules?
There are a couple of things I'd suggest:Kelju wrote: ↑Sun Nov 06, 2022 8:11 pm Hi,
I finally got to the point in my build that I was able to test your board in my RX8. I have 40kWh worth of modules from a Mercedes EQC 80kWh pack installed. The EQC battery has the same bq-series cell instrumentation ASICs.
I made some slight addition/modifications to your code so that I have min, max and avg cell voltages reported in one message and temperatures and the pack voltage reported in another one.
I have the older version of your board with 3v3 as the serial comms supply. I managed to custom fit a LAN transformer on the board and also increased the inline capacitances, so apart from the supply, everything indicates a walk in the park...
I modified my Zombieverter embedded BMS-code to work with the aforementioned messages and was able to connect the battery with a successful DC-link precharge.
I then pursued to give it some "gas", but as soon as the Leaf inverter starts to spin, the battery voltage value reported by the Raspberry is jumping all over the place.
Was it so that you experienced issues only with charging and not on drive with the Tesla inverter?
Unfortunately, I've found this to be rather unpredictable. In my own experience the best results were achieved with a short twisted unshielded cable. In my own car I'm using the 5v version with an external transformer. I think there's some photos above of this above.