[Driving] Homebuilt Locost 7 - from Motorcycle engine to Leaf power!
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johu
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Re: [Driving] Homebuilt Locost 7 - from Motorcycle engine to Leaf power!
Also verify that you get equal torque response in forward and reverse. That kind of indicates a correct syncofs
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Re: [Driving] Homebuilt Locost 7 - from Motorcycle engine to Leaf power!
Okay, I did not have the right syncofs. Everything is fine now, but I did have a rough few minutes getting it sorted out.
It was hard to tell with the car in the air but on the ground it was obvious, the torque response was very different in either direction. I tried a small change first and that felt normal, so I started driving but the first time I tried to accelerate slightly hard the car bucked and lost power. I had to cycle power to the inverter to get moving again. That was on a road with no place to pull over (stupid idea in hindsight) so I kept going, but the car tried to accelerate on its own again. This time I hit the brakes and it cut out again. I was not logging, but I wonder if it was tripping due to overcurrent? My one concern is that if it did trip and opened the contactors, could I have damaged the capacitor in the inverter? The car seems fine after adjusting the syncofs again, but I don't know how I would tell if the capacitor was blown.
Anyway, I finally pulled over to a safe place and started playing with the syncofs again, this time I tested by actually driving the car forward and backward until I found the sweet spot. Then I kept driving and it felt great. It pulled hard and there was no more uncommanded acceleration at higher speeds.
I even found a spot to try accelerating hard from a stop and discovered it's possible to spin the rear wheels. I can also tell from the video that the car is transferring a lot of weight to the back when accelerating this hard. I do think I am going to have to go with stiffer springs!
Lots of wind noise again, turn sound down. I think I was near 100% until the tires spun, then I was probably 75%...
It was hard to tell with the car in the air but on the ground it was obvious, the torque response was very different in either direction. I tried a small change first and that felt normal, so I started driving but the first time I tried to accelerate slightly hard the car bucked and lost power. I had to cycle power to the inverter to get moving again. That was on a road with no place to pull over (stupid idea in hindsight) so I kept going, but the car tried to accelerate on its own again. This time I hit the brakes and it cut out again. I was not logging, but I wonder if it was tripping due to overcurrent? My one concern is that if it did trip and opened the contactors, could I have damaged the capacitor in the inverter? The car seems fine after adjusting the syncofs again, but I don't know how I would tell if the capacitor was blown.
Anyway, I finally pulled over to a safe place and started playing with the syncofs again, this time I tested by actually driving the car forward and backward until I found the sweet spot. Then I kept driving and it felt great. It pulled hard and there was no more uncommanded acceleration at higher speeds.
I even found a spot to try accelerating hard from a stop and discovered it's possible to spin the rear wheels. I can also tell from the video that the car is transferring a lot of weight to the back when accelerating this hard. I do think I am going to have to go with stiffer springs!
Lots of wind noise again, turn sound down. I think I was near 100% until the tires spun, then I was probably 75%...