[WIP] 1986 Ex-Military Land Rover 110 - GS450H

[LRBen]

So this is another thread Im starting well before I make a start on the conversion. Although I have done some stripping down already.

The Vehicle
This was pretty much an impulse purchase in the middle of Covid way back in 2020, I was still half way through the MG so had no intention of doing an EV conversion to this. Originally I was going to transplant in an L series Diesel engine from the Rover 25 you can see in the side of one photo, then do the NC500.

It had been sat in a wood for two years previously, but started up and was cannonballed home (luckily only a few miles). I managed to get it through an MOT with only a bit of welding to the rear crossmember and some new spring turrets. It also needed a bit of rewiring just to get it functioning again.

I didn't drive it for long before storing it at the farm. In 2022 I made a start stripping it down for a nut and bolt rebuild. Still intending to ICE swap it and just make bits of progress when the EV conversions were waiting for parts etc. This was when the chip shortage was still in effect.

This above photo is the rough plan I have for the aesthetics. I want to go with a sort of Mad Max/beach buggy look. With a roll cage, bikini soft top and the option to push the windscreen down. Obviously this is the ideal setup for the UK weather. I haven't decided if I want to keep the original patina or nato desert brown paint.
I have some ideas for a bit of decoration down the sides of the chassis rails, I have the military records of this vehicles so I was thinking regimental cap badges where this was used down one side and then maybe something to represent the three civilian owners down the other. Not sure about this though.

This is the stage where I left in back in 2022, last year I sold the engine and bought chassis repair parts. Now it's covered in the usual farm accumulation. Last year I also made the decision to just skip the ICE swap and convert it to electric.

The Plan

Motor
I've been thinking about this for a few years, currently the plan is to use a GS450H gearbox attached to a divorced LT230 transfer box. The ratios in high work really well with the standard diff ratios. I have bought an adaptor flange for the LT230 from a company called Rakeway in the UK. The GS450H will give plenty of power, but not silly amounts. The drive train should be good to handle this, in my previous job we were putting LS3s with pretty aggressive auto boxes into Defenders and the drive trains handled those just fine.

Battery
Originally I was thinking E-Corsa batteries given the price. But I have recently had some experiences with the VW batteries and I think I prefer the bigger but few module approach. So will probably go with a 55kWh ID3/4 pack, although I'll wait until the motor is in and spinning then see what the battery market is looking like. I have made a start designing some coolant plates for this pack since I'll be going with CCS for fast charging, plus after running the MG over a couple winters I would really like some options for battery heating as well.

Other bits
I have a discovery gear selector knob which I plan to use for direction control.
In the dash Im keeping the original speedo, but then all the other dials and lights are getting replaced probably with a tablet running Torque OBD.
This may mean I end up with a canbus enabled 12v system for lights etc as well.
Everything else is much more up in the air and I'll decide for certain when I get there.

Well this is probably the last you'll see of this for a few months yet. I'm planning to move it from it's current location to my new workshop in the spring so I can get to work on chassis repairs.

[Bratitude]

Ohhh very cool. The lt230 will have no problem I reckon, them seem to have proven the test of time and are everywhere!
Great project

[Jacobsmess]

Nice, how are you planning on driving the original speedometer?

[rstevens81]

NC500 very cool, coolplates are defo a unicorn item for diy because of their cost, ive always wondered if an al sheet heat-sink and those pc cooler-plates would be enough, obs middle modules beneath the cooler-plate would be coolest/hotest, however with the al sheet there should be enough heat conductivity to stop the rest getting too hot/cold

[nkiernan]

Nice project, this will be cool.

[LRBen]

Nice, how are you planning on driving the original speedometer?

Speedo is cable driven from the transfer box so that will just stay as is.

coolplates are defo a unicorn item for diy because of their cost

I'll post a screen shot of the design later on, It's a big plate of aluminium with machined out spaces for pipework to be pressed in. Each plate can support 4 modules, two each side. So I'll only need two for the whole box. Less plates also means less coolant connections and potential for leaks. I'm hoping the cost of manufacture won't be too prohibitive.

Potentially I might also use this battery for the tractor as well.

[Jacobsmess]

Re: cooling plates, one thought I had was aluminium sheet sandwiching a 3d printed piece with channels for coolant. Might be a cheapish DIY option

[LRBen]

This is where I am currently with the chill plates. holes for bolting in four modules, plus some extra tabs on the end with a couple tapped holes along the side to aid with securing.
Currently with a lid, perhaps it could be secured by a ton of counter sunk screws to the main plate and sealed with silicone. Not 100% keen on this idea.
If I get them manufactured there is potential for stir welding them on, might have to buy quite a few for that but it could work.

[rstevens81]

What might work would be underfloor heating pipe ... Cut a groove in the al heatsink, this can be done with a router with ali

[Jacobsmess]

What might work would be underfloor heating pipe ... Cut a groove in the al heatsink, this can be done with a router with ali

Yeah this is something I'd also considered, you just need to find a panel of the right dimensions for your battery.

[marcexec]

FYI:

[LRBen]

Picked up the donor car today, currently only planning to use the gearbox and inverter but the seats are very comfortable.

[arber333]

This is where I am currently with the chill plates. holes for bolting in four modules, plus some extra tabs on the end with a couple tapped holes along the side to aid with securing.
Currently with a lid, perhaps it could be secured by a ton of counter sunk screws to the main plate and sealed with silicone. Not 100% keen on this idea.
If I get them manufactured there is potential for stir welding them on, might have to buy quite a few for that but it could work.

My idea was to simply cut a straight passage where one cell would lie and then add an obstacle on the inside to obstruct the flow somewhat, to swirl the water. Two plates in sandwich with countersunk screws still apply. I am thinki9ng on how to do this by simple method of jigsaw and metal blade with lots of WD40. In the past i have proven it can be done with 8mm plate. Outside plates need to be at least 5mm for even thickness and eventual welding of the end pipes. This is the only part i cant do alone. An expert should do it not to overheat and bnd the plate. It must keep the seal.

Or if you have professional help you can cut channels in a 10mm plate with an O ring channel all around it and single 5mm plate on the top.

[nkiernan]

I wondered about a cooling plate setup that didn't require alu machineing or welding. Something that could work on the outside of a battery box, but also be a sandwich plate style for between battery modules. Using the underfloor heating tube idea above, and simple 2mm or 3mm alu sheet, is there somehting like a heat transfer settable gel or liquid that could pour around the tube and set in place!

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[LRBen]

Waiting on the weather to dry out a bit so I can take the tractor out onto the fields for some testing. So I have a bit of time to work on some small bits for the Defender.

Currently stripping down the transfer box to swap ratios up to a 1.41 from the 1.22 is it currently. I'm only really doing this as I have spare gears so it isn't going to cost me a whole lot. Otherwise the 1.22 would be just fine I expect. However the 1.41 gives more torque and there is still plenty of rpm headroom. I thought about putting in an ATB but I think for now I'll leave it. Maybe make it an upgrade at a later date. I don't want to go spending all of my money at this early stage.

I also stripped down the heater box, the HV PTC matrix from an ID3 fits perfectly in this box, the matrix is bigger than the original so it might actually be able to throw out some decent heat. I'm also upgrading the blower motor with the fan unit from my old Rover 45, it's a bit beefier and moves noticeably more air. I'm also taking the controls from the Rover as well, so the Defender will have a decent fan speed control for a change.

[marlinarnz]

It's good to know that the ID3 PTC fits into the heater box! Can you share the controls?

In case your project takes as long as mine: I'm looking into on an ESP32-based dash control that allows to use the original gauges, lamps, etc. Probably in late summer. In case you want to keep the archaic vibe, I'm happy if it becomes useful in another vehicle, too.

[LRBen]

It's good to know that the ID3 PTC fits into the heater box! Can you share the controls?

Haven't gotten as far as controls yet. I am due to take some logs from an ID3 in the next few months though. So that should open up ID3 PTC heaters and AC compressors for everyone once the reverse engineering is done. By that I mean that Tom91 will probably be doing all the hard work and it will end up on a Zombie release in the distant future.
I did get a chance to try the heater box on the bulkhead and I think I will have to mount it slightly lower than originally so the top of the matrix doesn't hit the bonnet lip on the bulkhead. So not completely bolt in but it's pretty close.

In case your project takes as long as mine: I'm looking into on an ESP32-based dash control that allows to use the original gauges, lamps, etc. Probably in late summer. In case you want to keep the archaic vibe, I'm happy if it becomes useful in another vehicle, too.

I expect it will take much longer!
I've sold off most of the dash dials and light clusters. My current idea is to use a tablet with TorqueOBD app and communicate with canbus, selling the light cluster alone pays for a fire tablet. So that means most of my vehicle/dash controls are now going to need to be canbus enabled.
I would be keen to see what you develop for your dash.