No parameters?

[BlueHorizon]

Hi,

Finally after 3 years of my car being in the body shop and having the Tesla LDU fitted into the back of the small 911 rear, I am ready to get moving on getting the car in motion!

Using a board that Damien built about 4 years ago, I have managed to connect up the inverter to a good 12v source and the WiFi working well. I've updated the files related to the web interface after seeing the UI was spinning and not displaying parameters. However, despite updating the UI, I'm still not seeing parameters show up with the refreshed UI. I've tried uploading a new parameter file and it prints out the parameters, but fails to show them in tabular format. Nor can I save the parameters. If I try downloading my parameters it basically throws back an empty file (besides the curly brackets).

Any ideas?

Notes:
- I'm using the original Tesla wiring harness for the low voltage connections.
- I have not connected anything else (aka accelerator, drive selector indicators etc.) but the 12v power / ground.

I'm also not sure as to how I can determine which firmware version I am running - is that visible anywhere?

[johu]

Not uncommon, read here: viewtopic.php?p=60170#p60170

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

Try power cycling and re-connecting. Give it about 30 seconds between power off and power back on. Its a known issue that sometimes the parameters don't show up because the connection drops. Also make sure whatever device you're using isn't trying to jump over to another wifi network mid-connection. Try it a few times. If that fails, try updating the firmware/reuploading the firmware.

[BlueHorizon]

Thanks both. I did read the other thread previously and power to the board seems good.

I have to say that I am a bit confused in terms of how to validate the version the firmware is. Is there something through the UI that exposes this?

[johu]

Once the parameters do load there is an item called "version". Do you have a blinky LED on your board?

[BlueHorizon]

Unfortunately it’s going to be a lot of effort to get to the encoder. The shop that built the harness for the motor has it tucked in (see photo).

I’ll try playing around with the wiring a bit more.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

The bottom line is that the Wifi board is not communicating with the Control board. This may have a variety of causes:

- Power issues of various types.
- Connection issues on the TX and RX lines on either side (any of those wires gets cut, comms break down, sometimes even the pins being shakey does it).
- This is what you'd see if the control board doesn't even exist. The wifi is just calling home and no one answers.
- Could be a flunked out wifi chip that just won't communicate.
- Could be a flunked out STM32 chip on the control board that won't communicate.
- Could be scatterbrained wifi chip that needs resetting or reprogramming.
- Probably others.

First time I had the problem, it was my STM32 chip didn't even have a bootloader loaded.
Second time I had the problem, the terminals were kinda floppy and my jumper wires sucked.
Third time I had the problem my Wifi board had apparently just refused to communicate so I threw it away and programmed a new one.

And probably 10% of the time even when working, it would just not work and I'd have to reset both boards (sometimes a few times) to get it to talk.

Since moving away from the Olimex boards and most people adopting the Wemos D1 Mini esp8266 boards, and soldering directly, they've not had problems.

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

The bottom line is that the Wifi board is not communicating with the Control board. This may have a variety of causes:

- Connection issues on the TX and RX lines on either side (any of those wires gets cut, comms break down, sometimes even the pins being shakey does it).

I've had the wifi board come slightly loose and cause these issues as well. I opened it back up and used a small ziptie to hold it in place. Worth checking.

[BlueHorizon]

Thanks for all the responses. I've now purchased a 1,000 lbs hydraulic cart that I can use in the garage to lower the motor and the cradle onto and then lift the car up to be able to get to the motor and pop that sucker open to see what's going on with the inverter.

Besides validating the power is flowing correctly, I suspect I may just want to hardwire and "go fresh" with bootloader and all that jazz to make sure all the software is up to date.