TSLA TJ

Tell us about the project you do with the open inverter
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Bill Bayer
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Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2021 12:41 am

TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

Hello everyone. I just found and joined this website yesterday.
It's great to find a collection of tinkerers and innovators that really seem to be doing what they say instead of just saying what they have no idea how to do!
Allow me to introduce you to my project. (This is going to take several installations as I have already done A LOT and I don't want any one post to be too long)

Back in July 2020 (a few days after my birthday) I bought a 1997 Jeep Wrangler with over 250,000 miles on the clock. The 4 cylinder was very tired but it ran pretty well and I was able to drive it home. The overall condition of the Jeep was as you'd expect for a vehicle with so many miles. I live in Tennessee but I suspect the Jeep lived most of its life somewhere very dry and free of road salt as there was only light road grime on the chassis with the factory paint still intact. There was only a small spot of rust in the passenger footwell.
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Of course first thing to do was to get that nasty dirty engine, transmission and transfer case out.
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I weighed these parts and came up with 660 pounds.
I also removed the standard ICE parts: fuel tank, fuel lines, exhaust, various emissions components, etc...
I didn't weigh all that stuff but I'd guess another 150-200 pounds.

The plan for the Jeep was not set in stone. Back in 2014 I converted my Ford Ranger to electric. I still drive it daily. I used an HPEVS AC76 induction motor and a 45S2P pack of CALB100 LiFePO4 cells. It has worked more-or-less flawlessly. The biggest problem I had started about 2 months after the conversion when, upon pressing in the clutch pedal, the throwout bearing shoved the armature forward. I sent the motor back to HPEVS for repair. It worked fine for a long time. Last year one of the bearings failed and I had to sleeve the rear end bell of the motor. I won't bore you with the details but suffice to say I no longer run a clutch or flywheel and I'd never recommend anyone considering a conversion to do so.

Back to the Jeep... My original plan was to simply decommission the Ranger and cannibalize its parts for the new build. That idea didn't last very long. First of all, the AC76 is adequate for a little Ranger but would be uninspiring in a lifted four by four. My next thought was to get a Nissan Leaf motor. They can be had for not a lot of money. Boasting over 100kW, it would give the Jeep a little more spunk...certainly more than that tired old 4cyl. However, a Leaf motor in an American icon just seemed, well, lame. No offense to anyone who has used a Leaf motor in a conversion. I KNOW they do a great job! The idea that finally stuck was heavily inspired by me owing a fair number of Tesla shares and that stock exploding to the moon!

Now the job was to figure out who to buy a Tesla drive unit from. My research indicated that the main choices were EVWest, 057 Tech and StealthEV. Ultimately, I went with StealthEV because Matt Hauber and I are former employees of Jack Rickard at EVTV. Matt worked with Jack in the early days of Lithium-based EV conversions and I worked there about the time Tesla drive units were being reverse engineered. If you ever watched EVTV during that time, you may remember they stuffed a LDU into a VW Doka. If you've never seen EVTV, check this out: That's me! :)

I gave Matt a phone call and sent him a big, fat check. A few weeks later this showed up in my mailbox:
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I think that's where I'll leave it for tonight.

Bill
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Jack Bauer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Jack Bauer »

Great project and welcome to the forum.
I'm going to need a hacksaw
Bill Bayer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

So one of the things that was always in the back of my mind was what's the plan for the Ranger when the Jeep is finished? I can't imagine I'll drive much so it's just going to sit around. It has a lot of good parts that could be used for something else but why take apart a perfectly good conversion??

Well, life has a way of solving difficult problems.
The parking brake has always been essentially non-functional so most of the time I just park on level ground and left it be.
That' worked 99.99999% of the time. Thursday was the 0.00001%.
It's very sad. The frame was visibly bent on the right side along with that spring hangar getting shoved forward about 1/4".
I don't know how fast it got going but the forces involved to wreak this much havoc must have been enormous.

Needless to say eRanger is no more. This weekend I'll push the Jeep aside (literally and figuratively) and start stripping parts.
Two of the battery boxes were damaged so it's likely that a couple cells were damaged, also. We'll see.

Keep watching this space.
Bill
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by johu »

Oh that sucks, “decomissioned“ my first conversion in a similar way. Hot instead of cold deformation (electric heater thread).
Support R/D and forum on Patreon: https://patreon.com/openinverter - Subscribe on odysee: https://odysee.com/@openinverter:9
Bill Bayer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

Long live Lithium Iron Phosphate!!
So the tree blasted the rear bumper into the rear battery box. The collision was strong enough to rip a hole in the .060 aluminum. One cell was in the direct line of fire. Apart from a superficial dent in the plastic housing, there was no damage at all. I didn't even take a picture because there'd be nothing to see.
A second battery box that was struck from below by a rock or something caused no visible damage to any cell at all.
One of the other boxes (there are 5 in all) clearly had a water leak. It was full of water within about an inch of the top of the cells. Every battery strap and cell terminal was corroded. Every NordLock was rusted. There was mold and nasty stank everywhere! I have no idea how long it had been full of water but certainly before last week when it was well below freezing every day.
Despite all of this, not a single cell was swollen and all of the voltages were within .002-.003 volts! Granted, the pack is about 66% SOC so the voltage doesn't really tell much but still I'm a LiFePO4 believer forever!!
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Bill Bayer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

OK, enough of the distractions...let's get back to the conversion!
When I was stationed in England in 2006-2009 I did a restomod of a 1969 Land Rover Series 2a. I basically took the body from the old truck and put it on the chassis of a 90's Defender. It had coil springs, big brakes, turbo diesel. Top spec stuff. It was pretty snazzy. I sold it right around the time I did the conversion of the Ranger. At the time, there weren't any +100kW motors for conversions. HPEVS did sell (still does I think) a dual AC35/6 but it was almost $10000. EVTV was still working on reverse engineering the Siemens and UQM motors.

Since I don't have it anymore, I want to make my Jeep in the spirit of the Land Rover. Big suspension, brakes, motor. Top spec...snazzy.
First thing to do then was tackle the suspension. If you didn't know, Jeeps are rather "upgradeable." I dare say they have one of the largest aftermarket parts inventories of any vehicle! I watched a few videos that convinced me a long arm kit was for me. After looking at several kits, I threw a bunch of names at the wall and the one that stuck was Iron Rock Offroad. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/
This kit is not for the faint of heart. You have to cut/grind all of the factory suspension mounts off of the frame and axles and weld on a truss to the rear axle. You were able to read that WAY faster than I was able to do it. Without the shocks on, it's a VERY smooth and bouncy system. I think I may run into a problem with the spring rates though once the batteries are installed. The front will probably be OK but the rear weren't designed to support 400lb of batteries. We'll cross that bridge later...

Next on the list was brakes. I got a large disc/caliper kit for the front and a disc brake conversion for the rear. Of course I painted the calipers red...duh! I did the rear conversion for a couple reasons. First, it looks cool. Second, Jeeps use Dana 35 rear differentials and they use C-clip axles. Basically, there's literally a clip shaped like a "C" that holds the axle in. If you happen to break an axle, the broken half and your wheel can dissociate themselves from your Jeep. With a disc conversion, the axle is still held in with the C-clip but the broken half is held in by the disc and caliper.

While I was in there I also upgraded the axles to chromoly and changed the differential gearing. The Tesla DU comes from the factory with 9ish:1 gears and my Jeep came with 4.11:1 gears. Since I'll be running the DU longitudinally with the right output shaft going to the front and the left going to the rear, multiply those gear ratios together and you end up with an obscene 36ish:1. With 31" tires, even an astronomical 16,000rpm would only give me a top speed around 40mph. Fortunately StealthEV offers the Quaiffe 4.5:1 gear set for the Tesla DU and Spicer offers a 3.07:1 gear set for Jeep diffs. Those will give me a much-more better 106mph top speed. Swapping the Jeep gears out was not as easy as I'd have hoped. I had to have one side of the front carrier machined .015" and the rear .030" and add a whole bunch of shims to the other side to get the backlash, preload and wear patterns correct. The backlash is still a little tight but hopefully it'll loosen up over time. OR it'll tighten up and cause major problems. We'll cross that bridge later...

The last thing to do was fit a locking differential to the back. Again, there are a number of flavors. You can get them with disc packs, cones, air actuation, electronic actuation, worm-like gears, sprag-like gears and spools. The Land Rover used a torque biasing style from Auburn. These are IMO the best kind for vehicles that spend the majority of their lives on the road. There's nothing to wear out and they don't require special additives. I guess they don't make them for 3.07:1 gears though. All the ones I found were for 3.5:1 and lower (numerically higher) gears. I'm not surprised, 99.99% of Jeepers would never put taller gears in their Jeep...why would anyone do that?? I'm the .01%. I ended up getting what's known as a "luhchbox locker." They are of the sprag-like gear type. Called lunchbox because one manufacture of them ships them little metal lunchboxes. They don't require special additives either. They're very simple and will take about 100 years to wear out. They also, quite literally, drop in to the factory differential carrier. Problem is they're a little noisy when you go around turns. You call it noisy, I call it cool!
In the picture you can see the wear pattern on the ring gear, all the shims I had to add and the sprag-like gears in the locker.

OK, I need to get back in the garage and finish stripping the Ranger, get it pushed outside and get back to work on the Jeep.

Until next time.

Bill
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Bill Bayer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

Gotta skip ahead a little so I can ask two quick questions:

1) I got my DU from StealthEV. I do not want to use the brake pressure transmitter at all. The only regen I want is through the pedal. I understand I can reprogram the cruise control input to an ECO input and if I set it (not sure what "it" is) to '0' then I can use the ECO switch to manually turn off regen. I consider manual regen control to be vital for when road conditions get sketchy. I'm also not interested in creep.
The question is, does the DU need any sort of brake input to function?

2) Being that this conversion is a Jeep and hopefully a very capable one, I intend to take it off roading. Just how waterproof is or isn't the Tesla DU? The Ampseal connector will be right in the line of fire from water if I hit a puddle/pond, creek/river, etc... If it's not particularly waterproof from the factory, is there anything a guy could do to make it so?

Bill
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by retrEVnoc »

Bill Bayer wrote: Mon Mar 01, 2021 11:17 pm Gotta skip ahead a little so I can ask two quick questions:

1) I got my DU from StealthEV. I do not want to use the brake pressure transmitter at all. The only regen I want is through the pedal. I understand I can reprogram the cruise control input to an ECO input and if I set it (not sure what "it" is) to '0' then I can use the ECO switch to manually turn off regen. I consider manual regen control to be vital for when road conditions get sketchy. I'm also not interested in creep.
The question is, does the DU need any sort of brake input to function?

The openinverter board has a brake light input to turn on and/or boost regen while braking.

2) Being that this conversion is a Jeep and hopefully a very capable one, I intend to take it off roading. Just how waterproof is or isn't the Tesla DU? The Ampseal connector will be right in the line of fire from water if I hit a puddle/pond, creek/river, etc... If it's not particularly waterproof from the factory, is there anything a guy could do to make it so?

I would like to think it is pretty waterproof provided all the seals are present and intact but according to Youtube they are not going to keep water out in long term flood conditions. I believe I remember seeing some water drain out of some of Rich Rebuilds' flood Teslas drive units.

Bill
Bill Bayer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

The openinverter board has a brake light input to turn on and/or boost regen while braking.


Ahhh...that's a bummer. So I HAVE to use the brake transducer? I'd rather not have the brake pedal do anything except control the service brakes if possible.
Isaac96
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Isaac96 »

You can skip the transducer. The board just wants an input to know when the brakes are pressed so you don't have power + brake; just wire it to your brake lights.
Bill Bayer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

I'm into the wiring now. I have a new video on Youtube if you're interested:

On my Orion2 BMS and need to figure out where to connect the Charge Enable. It's supposed to be used to turn off Regen if the battery is full.
Where on a ZeroEv Large Drive unit board would I connect this? I've heard you can repurpose the Cruise Control input.
Does anyone know how to do this?

Thank you,
Bill
Bill Bayer
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Re: TSLA TJ

Post by Bill Bayer »

Also, Pin 2, "Brake Lights", is that an INPUT or OUTPUT?
On the Zero EV website, it is listed as a ground for brake light control.
In the Tesla Forums, Pin 2 is illustrated as a 12v input from the brake light switch.

Is this the wrong place for questions like this??
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