Thanks, helpful! I was assuming, based on the rest of the thread, this was a physical rather than electronic issue. To my other questions, the parking pawl is a separate device on the transaxle itself with it's own wiring. Are you using that?
Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
- PatrcioEV-ATX
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
1998 Ford ZX2 - DC EV conversion(sold) http://evalbum.com/2093
2012 Nissan Leaf (sold)
2016 Mercedes B250e (sold)
2023 Volvo C40
Current: 1964 Rambler Classic 660 w/ GS450h set up. 36kwh Tesla batteries from B250e.
https://www.instagram.com/rambler_660e/
2012 Nissan Leaf (sold)
2016 Mercedes B250e (sold)
2023 Volvo C40
Current: 1964 Rambler Classic 660 w/ GS450h set up. 36kwh Tesla batteries from B250e.
https://www.instagram.com/rambler_660e/
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Turns out I ordered the wrong JST connector and posted the wrong link earlier in the thread. Ended up just pulling the JST connector off the Zero Ev loom I purchased to build my harness. The one I listed only excepts 20 wires and the tesla JST connecotor to 23 pin ampseal connector takes 24 wires.
I built the harness using wires from the 23 pin ampseal ms3 pro 8 foot harness wires. Not sure its going to work. I know John Volk has had good luck with the cables. Just terrible at ordering 22 awg wires with 19 strands like the original mercedes wiring harness. The rubber housing does not fit inside the JST connector which kind of scares me because of the almost imminent possibility of electrical shorts that could and probably will occur if I don't find another cable to use. Just cant sit around all day and do nothing. So I tried to guess my pinouts based on the pinout charts provided and solder all the wires to the 90 degree 23 pin ampseal connector using my weller soldering iron.
Got it all built, cut the ampseal connector hole a lil wider to accommodate the 23 pin ampseal connector and installed it.
Now I am getting close to trying it out with a 12 volt battery. Just ordered another HV contactor cuz I only had 2 so I will have a third one to mimmick the diagram provided by Damian to finish my circuit.
I built the harness using wires from the 23 pin ampseal ms3 pro 8 foot harness wires. Not sure its going to work. I know John Volk has had good luck with the cables. Just terrible at ordering 22 awg wires with 19 strands like the original mercedes wiring harness. The rubber housing does not fit inside the JST connector which kind of scares me because of the almost imminent possibility of electrical shorts that could and probably will occur if I don't find another cable to use. Just cant sit around all day and do nothing. So I tried to guess my pinouts based on the pinout charts provided and solder all the wires to the 90 degree 23 pin ampseal connector using my weller soldering iron.
Got it all built, cut the ampseal connector hole a lil wider to accommodate the 23 pin ampseal connector and installed it.
Now I am getting close to trying it out with a 12 volt battery. Just ordered another HV contactor cuz I only had 2 so I will have a third one to mimmick the diagram provided by Damian to finish my circuit.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
What company did you get these shielded 8 wire leads from? Can you post a link to the waterproof gland nut as well and possibly a picture of the setup some time if you have a chance? Sounds really good!
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
So I fished up the wiring harness and hooked it all up to a 12 volt battery. I got something wrong because the board will not light up.
I can not figure out what +rv stands for on the diagram. Anyone got any ideas where I should hook up all these wires when it says +rv
I can not figure out what +rv stands for on the diagram. Anyone got any ideas where I should hook up all these wires when it says +rv
- Jack Bauer
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Its a missprint. It should be simply +12v.
I'm going to need a hacksaw
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
oh nice! Thanks bud! I'll go mess around with this knowledge. Maybe I can get the board to light up today.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Otherwise I fear I may have the wiring on my custom harness hooked up wrong.
Also Not quite sure where the can lines are supposed to go? If I where to guess I would say the DC to DC or the Charger? Still got to begin work on all the wiring on these componants.
Also Not quite sure where the can lines are supposed to go? If I where to guess I would say the DC to DC or the Charger? Still got to begin work on all the wiring on these componants.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
CAN lines go wherever you need them -- if you don't plan to use CAN with the inverter you can skip them for now.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Alright, I finally figured out what I am doing wrong. Just finally got the board to light up just now. I wired up my harness all wrong. Had the pinouts all wrong. I will post the proper pinouts and wire it up correctly now. Thanks for building these damian and for all the help friends!
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Ok so haven't updated for a while. Been battling with getting my board to communicate with my phone Samsung galaxy s7. It will connect and says its not connected wich I ignore since once in a while I can connect and get the screen where I can reset my parameters. However a lot of times it simply will not pull up the parameters screen. When it does come up it usually saves my parameters that I have previously set. However the thing definetly will not spin or even fire a contactor up. I am sorta lost right now. Thought maybe I had a poor wifi signal at my house and bought a 100ft cat5e cable to put my wifi box right on the motor and nothing has changed. Perhaps I messed up the wiring and the thing is protecting itself? Or maybe my board is one that had some solder come loose?(probably something I did though. Definitely super new to this stuff) hmmm not sure what I am gonna try next.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Maybe I need to download the new software but am having a hard time getting the 192.168.4.1 parameters screen to come up.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
ok, my contactors won't switch on when I flip the switch. I got a feeling that I need to put the relay I bought somewhere in my rats nest. they work fine on there own but for whatever reason when I wired it up to logic board I am getting no contacter clicking together noises.
keep watching the video roadstercycle has of bench testing. can not understand how he has his relays hooked up. kinda confused how the wiring diagram would want me to go about this relay hookup. sure it's just basic stuff for an electric car guy.
might just get a leaf motor from thunderstruck with the wiring harnesses already put together. just to get some hands on. don't remember my dc car having relays.
keep watching the video roadstercycle has of bench testing. can not understand how he has his relays hooked up. kinda confused how the wiring diagram would want me to go about this relay hookup. sure it's just basic stuff for an electric car guy.
might just get a leaf motor from thunderstruck with the wiring harnesses already put together. just to get some hands on. don't remember my dc car having relays.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
I am pretty sure I need to figure out the brake input to the logic board. wondering if I can just hook up 12v to it to trick it into working.
- Roadstercycle
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Hi, I hook my motors up exactly like the diagrams posted for the LDU motor on this forum. You do have to have 12 volts and a drive pack around 50 to 100 volts. You also have to set your parameters correctly for the lower drive pack voltage. You just need to read all the LDU setup things that Damien and the guys on the forum chime in about. It should work just fine unless something is fried.
- asavage
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Such a painful thread to read. Two (OK, three) things I can address:
Mating Connectors: one non-obvious thing about the way that connectors parts are named is that the plastic housing bits have nothing to do with the gender. The gender of the terminals (the metal bits) are what determine whether a connector (housing [shell] + terminals) is called male or female. Again, ignore the connector's plastic housing: you'll usually find that the terminal gender is the opposite of the housing gender, but there are exceptions so never guess, always check. This will have you ordering the wrong parts over and over until the lesson is learned.
Connector pinout numbering: when dealing with electronics, get comfortable using the manufacturers' datasheets, you'll need them over and over. Pinouts are always specified in the connector's housing datasheet. There is not "one way" that connectors are numbered, although if you work with enough of them you can sometimes make an educated guess -- which is a Bad Idea.
When things have been connected improperly, always assume that damage has been done, and don't assume that correcting the connections or wiring will fix the situation. You are not connecting things together at the consumer level here, where often designers assume that consumers WILL connect things together wrong, so the components have some rudimentary protection -- either physical, electrical, or both -- built-in by design. At the level you are working with components, there is often no circuit protection from making a misteak, so if it's connected wrong once, assume it's broken until proven otherwise.
Mating Connectors: one non-obvious thing about the way that connectors parts are named is that the plastic housing bits have nothing to do with the gender. The gender of the terminals (the metal bits) are what determine whether a connector (housing [shell] + terminals) is called male or female. Again, ignore the connector's plastic housing: you'll usually find that the terminal gender is the opposite of the housing gender, but there are exceptions so never guess, always check. This will have you ordering the wrong parts over and over until the lesson is learned.
Connector pinout numbering: when dealing with electronics, get comfortable using the manufacturers' datasheets, you'll need them over and over. Pinouts are always specified in the connector's housing datasheet. There is not "one way" that connectors are numbered, although if you work with enough of them you can sometimes make an educated guess -- which is a Bad Idea.
When things have been connected improperly, always assume that damage has been done, and don't assume that correcting the connections or wiring will fix the situation. You are not connecting things together at the consumer level here, where often designers assume that consumers WILL connect things together wrong, so the components have some rudimentary protection -- either physical, electrical, or both -- built-in by design. At the level you are working with components, there is often no circuit protection from making a misteak, so if it's connected wrong once, assume it's broken until proven otherwise.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
ok perhaps this new knowledge on male and female connectors will help me fix my 23 pin connector wiring harness . I will go back and check all this stuff now.
also not sure about where the relay will go.
or about my brake light signal.
thanks for all the help electric friends.
also not sure about where the relay will go.
or about my brake light signal.
thanks for all the help electric friends.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
so the female end is on the left.
the male end would be on the right.
I was looking at the plastic housings not the actual metal connectors. this changes everything.
the male end would be on the right.
I was looking at the plastic housings not the actual metal connectors. this changes everything.
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- Bratitude
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
I hope you’re not actually running this connector in the drive unit. This is a big no no. the chance of this failing is very high. driving a 400hp motor, very dangerous.
https://bratindustries.net/ leaf motor couplers, adapter plates, custom drive train components
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
good point. Any suggestions on how I could make it safe? Maybe I could just do a gland nut like jrod talked about earlier in thread?
- Bratitude
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
Here’s an off the shelf solution https://zero-ev.co.uk/shop/ldu23db-ldu- ... oard-12873
at least spend some time soldering each connection, have the striped wire strands fully parallel to the connector pins. Then heat shrink each connection to shield and take the stress off the wire. The solder makes the wires brittle and susceptible to cracking.
at least spend some time soldering each connection, have the striped wire strands fully parallel to the connector pins. Then heat shrink each connection to shield and take the stress off the wire. The solder makes the wires brittle and susceptible to cracking.
https://bratindustries.net/ leaf motor couplers, adapter plates, custom drive train components
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
yeah that was the first time I soldered anything. your method is a way better idea.
I am going to buy that part from zero ev. then I don't have to guess the coding of the connector pinouts. such an awesome plug and play solution. thanks so much!
I am going to buy that part from zero ev. then I don't have to guess the coding of the connector pinouts. such an awesome plug and play solution. thanks so much!
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
wow I already have that part. never sent it back. haha just need another harness.
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Re: Mercedes-Benz B Electric - motor support
ordered another harness. maybe this will work. probably won't fit in the case without modification. but at least it will be way safer than anything I can solder or build. maybe I can just bolt it on the outside of case to gain clearance. maybe put a 23 wire gland nut in there make a custom cover for the original connector whole and seal it all up.